Just wondering if with the multiple C3s you have been working on if you have ever gotten either the shop manual and/or the assembly manuals. In my experience the frustration factor and the all too frequent "breaking this while fixing that" scenarios are dramatically reduced. Wiring diagrams are more helpful, IF and ONLY IF previous owners haven't put their own "classic spin" on any given harness. My C3 is a '82 Crossfire which adds other exciting dimentions, but it has forced me to acquire more tools (i.e. a smoke machine for vacuum leaks) so that's a great excuse if nothing else. Considering how many of the parts I needed were unattainium, modifying those that were available to work at least gives a guy some level of satisfaction. Glad you aren't easily discourage - at least you have a window seat on the "struggle bus".

I was wondering where you were... Then I saw Lake Murray Blvd. There's a Lake Murray here in San Diego, CA, so I thought you were in San Diego, lol. But then I saw the Richland County sign , so it looks like you're in South Carolina. I've never been to South Carolina but it looks like a beautiful state.

Hey Scott, what hardware are you using for throttle stud to connect throttle cable to carb on your '81 vette?

WHEN YOU TIGHTEN BOLTS , START AT CENTRE AND WORK YOUR WAY OUT . DO IT LIGHTLY FIRST THEN TENTION IT SLOWLY WORK YOUR WAY UP . KIND REGARDS 🇦🇺

ADJUSTING THE AIR INTAKE WOULD OF BEEN GOOD 👍 , BECAUSE YOU CAN ! KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK 👍

So you are using heads that don’t flow well after 4500 rpm with a stock cam designed for low to mid range torque topped with a single plane high rise intake designed for use in the 3500-7000 + rpm range?

Hopefully she runs as good as she looks

Maybe I missed it before, but would like to know more about the engine. I heard you say it came out on an IROC, but don’t know much about it and what you’re doing to it.

Nice job on the painting. You also saved me from wasting money on that junk blaster

like your 81 i have one also, have a 510 hp blueprint engine with 4l60 trans & 373 gears. your car sounds pretty good , what do you have for a motor.

Petroleum contamination in the brake system equals a very bad day. The seals in the brake system will break down and swell and/or fall apart if they get in contact with even a small amount of petroleum. The normal brake fluid (except DOT 5 silicone) is glycol based and doesn`t contain any petroleum products at all. I`m afraid that every single seal in the brake system is or will soon be trashed. The little black particles that you found in the distribution block may be small pieces of rubber from the seals. Or it could be old dirt, hard to tell. But the brake system is compromised. I would have taken everything apart (master cylinder, distribution block and calipers) and cleaned it thuroughly or just replaced it. The lines can be reused as long as you clean them properly. Disconnect them on both ends and try to fill them with brake clean and then blown them clean. The distribution block will slide to one end (to close off a leak) if the brake system doesn`t build pressure on both sides of the block. The piston may then get stuck. There exists a tool that will reset the distribution block. I have heard that it is also possible to reset it by just pumping the brakes. I haven`t ever had any problems with the distribution block myself so I am not speaking from personal experience. I`ve just read about it on the Corvette forums over the years. The seals in your block may also have swollen and keeps the piston stuck in one end. Or it could be old corrosion. If I understood you correctly you were looking for somewhere to connect the 12 V power to the electric choke. The electric choke came in 1980 and was connected the the output from the alternator so that it would only get power as long as the engine was running. This was so that if you turned on the ignition and left it on for a little while before you actually started the engine the choke would still work. The choke deactivates gradually as soon as it gets power. Usually it is completely off after a minute or so but the time varies and can often be adjusted. The easiest way to add an electric choke to a car that was built without it (all C3s before 1980) is to connect it to the window wiper motor. The wire for the window wiper motor is nearby the choke so it`s easy to route a new wire to the choke from there. The wiper motor gets power as long as the ignition is on. Just remember to not turn on the ignition before you are actually going to start the engine. If the choke is wired so that it gets constant power even when the ignition is off the choke will always be deactivated and the battery will slowly be drained.

Vapor line from gas tank to charcoal canister

That was interesting.

You have an awesome wife!!!!😊

That’s a lot or work and that’s just the hood. Not sure I’ll be able to cross that bridge when the time comes for my 70. Your hood does look good.

Good instructional video. Nothing beats having a pro with you to critique how you’re doing it. Good to have friends like that, willing to work long hours to help you out. Hood is looking good.

Look pretty good hood!!

The mounting bolt holes aren’t the same. That should’ve been the first clue.

It’s actually Duc Panigale in the Facebook realm.

Hey Scott , Everything is a hammer . I don't know about you but I hate headers,My Vette still has the original manifolds but I have headers on my 69 big block chevelle. They make a ball and socket set that replaces the 3 bolt collector and gasket but it comes down $$$. Hang in there. Enjoy your videos

I don’t mind putting together tools, but I’d be more interested in the difficult stuff and how you overcame the problem. Our C3’s may be over a decade apart, but a lot of it’s the same. Why was the tops of the shocks difficult?

Looking forward to the body mounts. I’m thinking I need to do them on my ratty 70.

Didn’t see how you actually released the pump but good video. Thanks 👍🏼

The wheel is for a up to 79 Corvette and it is supposed to be painted like that. They started painting inside the spokes for the 1980 model year. The anniversary cars have the same wheels as all the other Corvettes. Only the pace cars had wheels with a different finish.

It’s a mercury switch built in to the hood lamp assembly. You can buy an aftermarket switch that simply plugs in line in the factory harness so you can manually turn the hood light on and off.

Wash, clay bar to remove contaminant, then use a cutting compound and proper pad to remove scratches, then a polishing compound and pad then apply a wax. I recommend Adams products.

Damn experience is a wonderful thing to have, but I've notice from working on my '82 that getting that experience the hard way like I do, makes the cost of experience aaquisition a little more expensive.

You have a great attitude and a great wife. I think your pockets are deeper than mine. Everything costs so much on a Corvette. My wife is not thrilled with the money I’m putting into my ratty vette.

Curious to know how much you paid for the car. I’ve found an 81 stingray and I’m not too sure what’s a fair price to offer

Looking forward to seeing her on the road. Nice job on the wheels

Those wheels are probably from an 80 - 82. The earlier wheels had black centers and unpainted slots. Or they could have been repainted. I do prefer the black slots myself. The center caps are the correct ones but the shiny 80 - 82 center caps would look better with the shiny centers.

The lower hole right above the filter pad is for the oil pressure sending unit. It looks to be plugged. If it wasn’t you’d have a huge stream of oil shooting out of it when the engine ran. The hole above that and just to the right is used to mount the ball for the Z bar when the engine is used in other GM chassis.

Apparently there was an upload issue and a 3 minute segment is missing. Sorry, I know that's real professional.

is anyone else have the video go black at the 3:24 mark ???

FYI The hole in the block is for a ball stud that the z- bar goes from the block to the frame for clutch for manual trans

The proper length alternator belt is hard to install because the valve cover is in the way. Best to remove the pulley from the alternator to install the belt. If you use a longer belt the belt will rub against the front of the power steering pump. But you do have the right belt.

The lightbulb that was missing from the center console is supposed to have a small circuit board. That one is for the low fuel warning light and if you put a normal bulb holder in there the light will stay on all the time. You need a low fuel warning module. Or just leave the bulb out because the primitive technology that they used for this light is not up to par with modern stuff.

You don't line up the rotor to the physical location of cylinder#1, you line the rotor to the #1 spark plug wire on the distributor cap.

I just changed my lights to LED on my 81 vette. I had a problem with the check engine light staying on. I was told not to use an LED bulb for the check engine. Something about the older bulbs allowing it to have a complete circuit. I took out the LED bulb and the check engine light went off. Not sure if it’s just a coincidence or if it really worked.

Thanks for sharing. Once I’m running, I may take her ratty ass to a cars and coffee. Do you see ratty cars at these venues?

Nice to see it out on the road

You have to be one of the few who make a bigger mess than me working on their car. 😂

I believe you held the gasket upside down. Same shape, but the bolt holes won`t line up.

The fact that you have two C3’s and stay motivated, helps motivate me on my one C3. I am learning from your videos. Sometimes it’s what not to do. 😂

I'm sorry I was wrong after I got a better view, It is a double pumper. Looks good. Holley can be bugger to get adjusted

What you have is a dual fuel inlet with vacuum secondaries and the front bowl has the accelerator punp

Thank you for the information boss.

Looking forward to seeing how well it works

Needed to support motor with a jack, and a block of wood on the oil pan, otherwise your distributor will hit on the firewall. Possibly damaging the distributor or the firewall. Emergency brake cable is released by removing pressure on the adjustment area, then remove the pulley. Drop the tranny mount, tilt the motor back alittle bit, drop the tranny. Sry brother, i rebiuld vettes all the time. I've follow your channel, and others, giving advice where i can, i do not judge anybody, or anything. Already to many haters out there, and i don't need to be one. If ya need any help, just ask, I'll help any vette pilot out there to keep their vette on the road. I'm rebiulding the 74's t400 tranny right now. Complete rebiuld, bushing, seal... everything. Keep doing your thing, and I'll keep watching.

I used ceramic coated shorty headers on my 81 and 74 vettes. Long tube headers are not good on a C3 vette. They hang too low under the car, making speed bumps a nightmare. Also the ground wire with the starter wiring goes to the bottom bolt for the tranny to engine mount bolt, torqued to 25-30 ft lbs. According to my factory assembly manual. (ie.. 1974 assembly manual, L48 engine). With stock t400 tranny. But my 81 has it going to the same bolt on the stock t350 tranny. Also same location on my 86 C4 with 700R4 tranny. Red wire goes to main battery line, purple wire goes to s post, yellow wire goes to r post on starter. ( yellow if you have a coil system).