Yea I just used 2x4 rectangle tubing. Bolted it to the L track

kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z6Oqo6x9rKt9gKssi=MRylKEkMRZCoTXMX

Right on! Thanks man

I used the factory 263 for years until our started leaking. Then I got a Ford 273 from transfer case express.

It's just some 2x4 rectangle tubing welded together. Nothing special or fancy. It's bolted to the L-track that runs on the inside of the bed rail

Yes. About to roll 400,000 miles

Thanks man! Just recently got rid of those wheels and went with 17s

Thanks man!

He's the bestest boy!

I have a few more videos uploaded, but I dont have any great videos of the build or closeups. The front axle I got for 600 bucks at the junkyard. The rest of the parts were around 4k from WFO. I eventually went with a Ford T-case which required new driveshafts. Case was 1200. Shafts were 750. You could skip that.... I ran the 263 for years before I got tired of it leaking. I installed everything alone in 3 days. 1st day was cutting and cleaning. 2nd day was welding brackets. 3rd day was buttoning up steering / brakes / hubs / shafts. My wife helped me bleed the brakes.

@@mikkiejordan5540 I'm a bit surprised on the t-case. Any reason you went with that over an OEM rebuild? My plan is to use kodiak's t-case because of their bearing redesign. That's a 6" WFO lift I think I heard? It's really the perfect height and wheel combo with the 13.5" IMO.

@@LBZOverlander I went with the 273 for several reasons. The output shaft is aligned with the front axle eliminating some vibrations I had above 50 mph. It's also much much larger. It has flanges on both the front and rear outputs instead of slip yokes. And most importantly it doesn't leak lol Mine came out to about 5" of lift. I would have done WFO 3" kit if it were available at the time for more uptravel

@@mikkiejordan5540 Was the 263 leaking because of the pumprub?

Thanks, man

Thanks man

Hasn't melted yet. Them longest consistent shower was about 30 minutes straight. Done that a few times

No, it's the factory Ford swaybar and end links

Thanks man. I dont have a parts list or anything but it's literally just a pelican cade with an RV water pump, propane water heater, a 1 lb cylinder and a 12v battery. A lot of people have built something similar since.

I'm like 80/20. I don't use it for the power, I have tuning for that. It controls my front locker just fine. The guages only update like every second so they don't seem smooth. They seem really jumpy. And I've been through 3 touch screens because something goes out and and it can't pick up where I'm touching. Like it will click the button an inch to the left of where I'm pressing

I replaced the mount on the bottom of the coilover with a smaller version, shortening it about an inch

@@mikkiejordan5540 Could you then theoretically replace it with a larger lower mount on the 3 inch kit to create 4 inches of lift?

@@kylenicholas_mtg_lv I'm not sure how much longer of a mount they make. But if they do, I think at that point you might be maxing out the factory Ford track bar, which is used on the 3" kit.

Indeed. Thank you

It has a PPE deep aluminum pan. I'm not sure how nuch that helps. Factory tranny cooler. I usually use 4 Low when I'm crawling, I don't know if that helps or hurts, honestly.

Thanks man!

I understand 100% what you are saying! Thanks man

37" tires. I van fit it under a standard 6' garage door if I deflate the rear bags. Obviously that's without the tent.

@@mikkiejordan5540 thanks man truck looks awesome I’m starting a new project 07 gmc 2500

Its the factory hood off a 2000 Chevy HD. It had to be cut to fit around the headlights.

Thank you. The compressor switches are from air lift. It is a dual needle guage and and a switch for each side up/down. Not for the tires though. It's for the rear air bags which are air lift 7500 lb bags.

@@mikkiejordan5540do you have any issues with the bags at full rear end flex/ articulation?

Thanks man

Indeed, it was lol

What benefit do you see? I love the ride of the IFS in my LBZ. I test drove several different solid axle trucks and I couldn't stand the ride. The solid axle front end keeps me out of a jeep wrangler too. There are lots of hard core off road vehicles with independent suspension. The hummer comes to mind. Why do you need solid axles? That seems like an expensive mod to make the truck ride like trash on the road.

@@russianrick8403 Benefit 1. Front end stays lined up 2. No pinky finger size tie rods to bend 3. Can handle my 1100 LBS snowplow way better and front end doesn't sag when plow is raised like IFS does 4. Much more room under front end 5. Steering is much more sensitive with less moving parts to ware out 6. Increase front axle rating from 4800 LBS to 6000LBS 7. Strengthen up frame, no more frame cracks behind upper control arms due to heavy snowplow 8. Manual locking hubs...2wd low range is awesome 👍🏿 9. No more weak cv axles popping out when on the throttle with steering wheel turned all the way right or left or cv boots cracking 10. Front axle is a Dana super 60 w/ a 10" ring gear 3" axle tubes with .50" wall 35 splins inner and outer axle shafts 1550 steering ujoints 11. No more stupid 4wd front axle actuator to go bad unexpectedly like on IFS 12. Ball joints does not move with suspension travel like on IFS 13. No need to worry about aluminum center differential housing cracking I busted mines snowplowing 🙄 14. As for the ride I don't care because trucks are supposed to like a wagon and not like a Cadillac 👍🏿😁 The only benefit from IFS is the smooth ride and nothing else

@@David-yy7lb That's a pretty good list! A couple questions on those for the sake of dialog. Couldn't you just crank up the springs or add heavier springs on the front end to handle the extra weight on the front end? Isn't the space under the front end reduced since the pumpkin can't be tucked up higher? I find your point on the steering interesting, because every vehicle I have driven with a solid front axle seemed to have much more ambiguous steering and tended to wander around a lot more. Aside from that, the whole point of a double wishbone suspension is to maintain better steering geometry at different angles and improve scrub angles instead of just having the steering angle pivot in a different axis as the axle moves up and down. I have already upgraded my tie rod ends, so I understand your point there. Lastly, can you expound on what you mean by the front end staying lined up? Can't the axle wander around a bit more with the track bar? It seems like independent suspension is anchored in more places so the geometry should be more consistent. 2wd low does sound pretty cool.

@@russianrick8403 My truck has a 7" S.A.S. lift so there's plenty of room for the whole axle to travel up and down, as for springs i have adjustable King coil overs and they handle my heavy plow with ease but before the S.A.S. swap I had a 6" BDS IFS Suspension lift when I had lift I would crank up the torsion bar bolts to raise the truck up about an inch or so because of the weight of my plow however the down fall of cranked up tbars is the truck would ride like a pogo stick and put more stress on the ball joints, the BDS lift drop the center differential 6" to keep the steering geometry like OEM...as for my SAS steering believe it or not my truck does not wander or have death wobble the steering is very sensitive as for front end alignment yes it stays lined up because my track bar is welded to the frame with a track bar mount with Haim joints and my radius arms has Haim joints too no rubber bushings to ware out so my front end is pretty rigid

@@David-yy7lb sounds like a helluva build. Truck modding gets expensive, and it sounds like everything you did paid off. Maybe the trucks I drove were just wore out.

Thanks man

Nevermind. Just saw your front end video. Such a good job on the truck.