Whole point of the tutorial

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Back in the days of Muscle cars most air gaps on points & this style coil was usually just set using a match book or business card. Many points even had notes on back saying use the box/package to set air gap. Most mechs used a card because it worked. Cards easier than using a feeler gauge in many cases because they flex better. Between 8-12k is the actual setting on these small Stihl units. Check the thickness of an average business card or match book you'll see why they always used them. My bil owned a full service shell station over 30yrs back then & they all carried a small card in their front shirt pocket for that reason. It was very common...Its not rocket science after all & why it can be set at 8k, 9k,10,11k,12k or just there abouts & run perfectly fine. That's a big span if you think about it. In fact the OEM Stihl coil I just removed was set at 1k maybe 2k at the most straight from the factory. Idk how it's coil lasted 23yrs set that way but it did. Not my trimmer so idk how hard it was to start but it had to effect it neg some how? Stihl wasn't even close to spec & I know it's never been apart before today, he bought it brand new. Peace

Just ordered mine should be here soon the weight more and are more beefed up.

I know this is late, but what I do is add that cleaner stuff that goes into gas to keep the carb system clean, and run the mower until it runs out of gas. That’s the way I’ve done it for decades and each year my mower starts up with one light pull. That way the entire fuel system is coated in the cleaner and fuel and will stay clean and nothing will gum up over winter as long as the carb itself isn’t dirty inside.

Zip tie your clutch lever.

@@LemonySnicket-EUC That wasn't the issue; the drive belt brake was easy to move out of way by hand. The timing wheel drive had to be removed as the belt would not squeeze past the screw tower. On model 21200 the screw tower doesn't taper at the top. Had to put one claw of wrench in timing wheel hole with the other claw set against the screw tower to stop it turning while unscrewing the center bolt. Took trial and error to figure how to do it.

@@officemanager8624 see what K Gio said.

@@officemanager8624 Did this last night. Could not budge the nut on the timing wheel. Used a few drops of oil and was able to push the belt through the gap

Hey. Do u know if u put the seafoam in with the old oil ?, then eun it 5 min or so then drain and put fresh oil in. Thanks

@@paulpersons799that’s what he did in the video