Thanks👍

Thanks😀👍

I think I found it, a small letter is stamped on the engine mount, mine is an “A”.

Hi. I am not sure how many models there are. At some point, I will have to make time to do the research for every model. There are just so many 😁

Finally got the cylinder bolts out, thought the hex heads were going to be stripped, but seems ok. I also heated up the carb and the gummed gunk melted and the throttle barrel came out.

Hi. Yes, the best and only way to get everything loosened up is heat. Use a heat gun going hotter a bit at a time until it loosens. I use some penetrating oil while heating it, especially on the bolts 👍

Hi. I don't know. I suppose it will differ from the prop size u use and some other factors. I will make a plan to test this someday.

Thanks👍

Thanks. It runs very nicely. Cont wait to fly it on something.

😁👍 I struggle to sell them. I think I suffer from seller's remorse.

Yes. Once tuned they start very easy. 👍

If the engine is run for the first time and it is not tuned yet it could and should run Ritch. Running very Ritch will cause it to die if the glow power is removed. Once leaned out to the correct setting it should be fine otherwise the glow plug itself has a problem.

I disassembled and removed the bearing by heating the crank at the bearing and then knocked the pin out. Just support the crank property on a piece of wood. It moves slowly but it will go. Just be patient and don't hit it too hard and it will be fine.

😁👍

Hi. Yes. The pump did not work and I had to drill the hole to make it work. It must be a factory problem. When the plane flies the pressure in the cowl changes(that is if it is not flown open like on a stick ) So if you tune the engine on the ground static the pressure inside the cowl is different from when it flies and the metering valve will work differently. Adding the nipple allows you to connect some fuel tubing or any suitable tubing, and run it through the firewall into the fuselage where the pressure will be more stable. The end can be inserted into an old pill container with holes and secured somewhere out of the way. This has solved some of my tuning problems.

Hi. To lap the pedal or reed valve could make a difference. Change the plug and check the timing. Make sure it's about 28 degrees before top dead center. It could be many things. Just try one thing at a time to eliminate the possible causes.

Hi. Sometimes the four strokes battle upside down. The type of plug and nitro content makes a difference. An onboard glow system usually solves the problem. If the engine has low compression It will also affect the low idle speed in general.

Hey, thanks!

Hi. Some oils will damage the o rings. I coat my o rings with Red Rubber Grease that protects the o rings. I purchase It from stores that sell seals and o rings. If you regularly apply some of that grease it won't damage and give off the black material. If it is not a genuine part the o ring sometimes swells from the methanol and it is difficult to move and then also shaves off the rubber as you turn the needle. I am forced sometimes to use other brands for the real stuff is just not available.

I think the LA10 up to the bigger OS engines all use the same high-speed needle o ring. I have found a local size available that works well for me.

Ah great stuff mate, yes teflon was the word i was looking for just could not remember the name of it ,i might pull it apart again to be sure ,really appreciate ya advice thanks mate and look forward to seeing more of your vids 👍👍👍

Hi. I will check and convert the ounces to milliliters and let you know.

@@rcaeroenginerepair thanks nice 1

Hi. The tank that I use holds about 300 milliliter.

Hi. I like working on the saito’s the most and the radial engines becomes complicated. I have some waiting for me to do.

@@rcaeroenginerepair nice ,looking forward to seeing you do a rebuild on 1 could you added commentary on some of ya build ??

Hi. The lapping can be difficult. If you have the bronze inserts you are ok and the damage, if any can be repaired. If it is just the aluminum-plated surface then you can only lightly clean the surface and no damage can be repaired. I experimented with different compounds and I settled on a burnishing compound they use for polishing painted surfaces. I mix in some cutting oil used by machinists. I use some fuel tubing pressed over the end of the valve to spin it between my fingers and if you pull too hard you pull it off the valve.

@@rcaeroenginerepair Thank you very much for your reply! It's very enjoyable to see you work.The music is great too!

@@rcaeroenginerepair ​ One more question if I may. Is it ok to put the valves into the US cleaner? I am not sure if you include them with the rest of the parts

Hi. I don't always show everything for the videos will be too long. Yes I put the valves in the cleaner but I put them in a small open plastic container so they can not vibrate against anything else. I do the same with the piston. 👍

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Thanks 👍

Hi. If we can get Saito bearings they would be very expensive. We just buy from a local dealer. I just give him the sample and they get it for me. It is normally commonly used sizes in mm. For cleaning liquids, I have found that most floor-cleaning fluids for tile floors work the best. Almost anything you use will turn aluminum black so you must just keep the temperature down and you will then just have to use some elbow grease.

@@rcaeroenginerepair Thank you very much for your reply!

Hi. Yes, I own and fly a Saito 180. Working on these engines the problem specific to the 180’s is that the cam warns out and falls apart. Never seen it on other Saito’s. I have seen three now with the same problem. Other than that they are fine. If you want to buy one you have to disassemble it to be sure. You have to feel the front piece of the cam if it is loose or not. The crimp in the front wares away then the front cam moves back and forth and starts to wear out. The engine will run poorly and at some stage, you will hear abnormal clicking from the cam as it jumps around. As you can see on the video I was able to fix the cams. They are very good and powerful engines. Hope you can get it.

@@rcaeroenginerepair Thank you very much for the advice, enjoyed watching your vids too ,i dont have Aircraft to put it in at moment but may as well have in the hanger as we say😁 thanks mate all the best .

@@rcaeroenginerepair what ya think should i jump on it ,now ive brought engines of him before, ie OS FS 70,s x 2 no worries to em ,it just saito more of a expencive and a experienced man to repair?? Thanks

Thanks. I will buy everything I can get my hands on.😁 Enjoy.

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Hi. I use a 4-cell lipo. Gives it a bit more power. Just a normal HJ Hobby Taiwan starter. 🤛

​@@rinzemuller1163yup, I do the same, when in doubt, 4cell it out. LoL

Hi. Thanks. Cleaning liquid is a frustrating topic. I have tried everything but I have found that floor cleaners for tiles work the best and I am always experimenting. The trick is to keep the temperature down and the temperature at which the aluminum turns black differs from product to product. I add ice or cold water but at the end of the day you are still going to use some elbow grease. 🧪🧽

Thank you for yours replay. I concure....floor cleaning me also and give attention before turning black . Not trop anyonic produits dedans. Best regards and vivement for New vidéos. Amitiés.....I really apreciated thé New trics learned from you. Greatings

Thanks👍

Hi. Thanks. Please read my reply to Horja. He had the same question. 👍

Hi. Yes. I use an ultrasonic cleaner and then some old-fashioned elbow grease. 😁

Thank you very much!

Thanks. Nice 👍

Nice 👍

Hi. Check the exhaust valve spring for the correct length and tension. When the engine runs hot and overheats it can collapse and that could be your problem. Also, check the valve stem for mushrooming. The valve should push out through the guide without getting stuck.

@@rcaeroenginerepair Forgot to mention I did replaced both valve springs with brand new. Both valves were removed and cleaned because carbon build up was bad. Valve guides felt good with each valve smoothly pushing in/out. One thing I noticed was intake and exhaust valve in this engine are exact size and are identical. Is this normal for the 180? The smaller engines I've done have had larger intake valves. Thanks for your help!

Yes. The valves are the same size, and the 120,150 and 180 engines use the same size valves. Have a look at the rocker itself. There is a spacer washer that has to sit on one of the sides of it. Make sure it is on the right side. Sometimes it makes a difference if it is placed on the inside or the outside of the rocker especially if there is damage on the sides of the housing.

Jy gaan hom baie geniet! Hy klink baie mooi. Rinze is n expert!

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Yes. If you like these engines you should just buy them up for spare parts 😁

Hi. Thanks. I have found some of these to be pretty good but some have leaking valve problems. You will spend hours lapping valves without success. I have read in some RC Forums that some people believe they could be leaking past the valve seat that is not cast in properly. I believe this to be true in my experience. They look the same as an OS but I think the main difference that makes it run differently also is the carb. I also believe that they are the same as ASP and some other makes and the parts are interchangeable.

Hi again mate ,i gove my 1 a tear down all looked clean ,but just cant get it to run over 3/4 throttle, or idle keeps cutting ok ,now ive only put a small tank test maybe still to much 3 in 1 oil in her ,i did not pull carb appart , piston is like new ,but it just doesn't seem to have much compression, it was like that when i got it ,even after rebuild still the same ,could it be valve las?? ,it runs after good prime and after 2 mins shuts down any help would be appreciated mate ,thanks , i just got a saito 180a so will be using you vids again thsnks 😂🤙🤙