Mine has a scrolling statically line and i dont know why do you know what could be causing it?

can you post a link to the schematic?

I had a Phillips radio that looked exactly the same. From memory Mullard in the UK formed a partnership with the Dutch Phillips company back in the early 1900's. Your radio is in amazing condition. Nice job! Craig - Geelong

nice radio, you're also very cute

Save yourself an early grave and just tilt the whole PC on its front and access the fan from there.

3-in-1 works as well.

hello am new.

As it is plastic, silicon oil should be very nice too, no ? I was also wondering, if a fan is loud while new, then I guess this wouldn’t fix that issue ? (Bought a new piece of hardware that might be loud, didn’t turn it on yet but that’s a common issue on this product apparently).

Wow, youtube recomended a relevant small channel for me?? Will be keeping an eye around here

why do you sound like ididathing💀?

Motor oil

For fans that were binding up, I would use WD40. The fans would last anywhere from 2 days to 2 years or more.

I'm just so confused why this video isn't more popular. This can solve so much more pc fan issues that people have.

The fan brand is "F U" lmaoooo

I first got interested in electronics in the 60s, as a teenager. And I had this friend who was also into it. He acquired a B(+) power supply that went up to 400V or so. at a couple hundred mA. Pretty soon, he discovered how much fun it was connecting it to little, low voltage electrolytics. They were like little firecrackers.

I did my mod how you did it, but there were some issues with the video being out of spec (wavy lines, colors off). Only with a handful of games though. I then matched what they did in the website you linked and everything worked fine. I think the resistor values need to be spot-on (120 and 200 ohm), and the 120 ohm needs to come after the capacitor on the output with a jumper put next to the 200 ohm.

Jail bars?

Nice! I usually prefer to keep the RF functionality.

Hi I'm in need of a replacement globe can you please tell me the globe specs thanks

The cap at 22:10 is a polystyrene, and which should be low leakage. I'd thought were pretty good over time, but maybe not... To protect and stop your ammeter pegging badly, put a couple of 1N4007's back-to-back across it. Just make sure first that they have no effect on normal operation by setting the meter to 100uA, and seeing that adding the diodes doesn't affect the reading. You might find my tester box of interest: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gl7YaX2ei8yEors

Is there a way to brighten up the picture, mine comes through dark

Good job, I benefited a lot, can you guide me where to find a list of most of faults and ways to fix of vintage radios, thank you،،،

Seriously Dangerous Device. Has a discharge Resistor but people should be very careful when dealing with Capacitors at such high voltages.Give you a very nasty shock if you forget to discharge or kill you if you touch capacitor terminals when it is being charged (or accidentally touch output terminal when connecting and disconnecting capacitors). All mains connected wiring should be done carefully and fully insulated.

A very enjoyable video. Let's see some more.

While bumble bee caps are not polarized. They do have a Foil end should be installed correctly in a circuit.

hello, you use the mosfet for regulation right? i would be ok to use a diferential amplifier (just an opamp) to drive the mosfet?(as standard linear voltage regulator)

Where is part two.

Somebody should start making these tubes again.

You need to put the antenna up in the air.

Awesome job again Don, love the way you are very thorough .

I'd certainly try to restore this as a radio. That way it will still serve a function. Trying to restore the Garrard has very little value in my opinion unless you want a fully functional piece (in which case why not do the radio also?). The Garrard is most likely quite a complex repair job and the crucial elements i.e. the idler wheel tyre etc. are likely caked and very hard to replace or very costly. There are people that sell new idler wheel replacements or replace the rubber on old ones but charge quite a lot for it. In any case, what you'd get at the end would be a record wrecker because I'd never dare playing a shellac or vinyl record with this type of cartridge and tonearm weight - not unless I did not care one bit for the record. Re. the case, it looks like most of the damage came from that hose! Otherwise, a sympathetic restoration (i.e. a good clean and some limited varnish repair) would keep a lot of the originality and character. Nothing wrong with it being an obscure/unknown make: having a Garrard deck on it and a large cabinet with a large speaker are all signs of quality so this can't have been cheap! Re. the veneer: it looks good and not peeling anywhere so I'd leave it well alone! :) But if you want to go the other way and try to fully restore (which I don't advise) bear in mind the following: a) you don't know how thin the veneer is, so before you begin (not only here, in any veneered piece you choose to restore), make sure you get someone to get you replacement veneer sheets of the same wood with close enough colour, grade etc. You will need some replacement at some point. b) given the veneer thinness, go very light with any sanding, i.e. use the highest grades sandpapers possible. Beware! Deep scars and gouges cannot be repaired with sanding! You're guaranteed to completely wear the veneer away that way! You need to remove the veneer using the right amount of heat, speed and dexterity, flatten the veneer, fill and sand the wood layer underneath to restore flatness and then re-attach the veneer! You need to be careful not to scorch the veneer when removing if an household iron is your method of choice (most use a normal heat gun taking care to apply the heat from the right distance and for only the amount of time needed). All in all I don't recommend going this way (did I mention that already?) as it will be a huge amount of work and the outcome won't be worth it as it will look like an old piece that 's been tarted up! :) c) if this is your first veneered piece restoration, make sure to do the following before you start: i) get as much advice as you can, watch videos, read up on the web, carpentry books, restoration books, wood grades guides etc. because you'll need it and, more importantly, ii) get plenty of scraps of veneered wood that you can find thrown away and use them for practice! The more practice with the more types of veneers you get the better. Given the age of the thing, the veneer will be attached with some sort of hide glue and will likely come off far easier than from a more recent veneered piece - but don't count on it!

7:40 Good advice - likely coming from bitter experience? ;) Is the "plastic" on the edge of the glass definitely plastic mouldings? Or could it be some caked tape/foam/rubber? You should take advantage of this opportunity and either scan the glass or (imo better) take a photo of it with a camera fixed on a stand. It's good that you did not try to clean up the cloth. Sometimes people go too far when restoring (and end up paying for it!). 9:54 Great mains cable strain-relief method! I've got to say, this looks super clean, as if it was kept locked in a cupboard for 70 years and only just came out. 12:55 You skimped on the 10uF by not using an orange drop!! tut, tut! Why do all radio restorers skimp on 10uF caps? Metal film caps this small are not that much more than their sub 1uF counterparts - I don't get it! :) 25:00 Why not carefully use a hairdrier, starting on the low setting, to soften up the wax? 27:14 Hmmm maybe you could wire up a ferrite core or a loop antenna? That way it won't need a connection to permanent outdoors aerial...

You would get a better sound if you had a longer aerial wire raised some metres off the ground! John Pettiford

Some may not agree with me on this but... Years ago I learned you can clean around the stenciling with Q-Tips and water for loose debris and dust, being careful not to touch any print. Then, I lay the dial glass on a clean surface and use clear Acrylic spray. Starting at a foot above it straight down, start AWAY from the glass depress the nozzle without stopping, and with continuous sweeping motion left to right, start coating the back of the glass. When you see you have a uniform coating you can now get within 6-8 inches and leaving a good even film, only releasing the nozzle once you have moved away from the glass. When it dries you no longer have an issue with the stenciling rubbing off. It works great, and I know many will be afraid to try it as I was, but I started with a junk dial and a blank piece of glass using that method and it turned out great. (Be sure to have a clean not dusty area to do this)

A 6U7 needs a shielding between the top cap and associated wire and circuitry, and the lower part of the glass envelope. The 6U7 has no internal shielding around the Anode, although there is a shield directly between the Anode and top cap internally, this is insufficient to prevent instability. You could try exchanging the 6U7 for a 6K7, the 6K7 does have proper internal shielding and should cure the instability. You will need to readjust the I.F.T.'s to compensate for different valve capacitances and characteristics.

Is there a parts list to be had anywhere? Schematic needs more clarity.

Hi from the uk. I enjoy watching you and I have subscribed. If you want some expert tips on restoration of wooden cabinets may I suggest that you look at Dave Tiptons youtube channel, as his restoration work is second to none. Hope all goes well. Cheers Chris.

Too hard to watch. The camera never stopped moving. I got 5 minutes in, and couldn't go any further..

Hi I have a mullard radio eleven eleven in working and great condition. What’s the value of them if you know by any chance?

The motor boating sound! Swap out your if or rf amplifier tube. I had the same issue with a 12sk7 tube. Also, you may have a capacitor that's out of place. It may be in the right location but the capacitor may be near a tube or near another capacitor. By bending away a capacitor from another capacitor or vacuum tube this may solve the problem. Use quality capacitors not the chinese junk.

Thanks for this vedio can you give me schematic diagram

Very cool vintage.

Great Video!!, Thanks Very Much!!,

See low voltage capacitor tester from Mr. Carlson's Lab

Could the proximity of the power transformer to the meters be causing the meters to be acting “wonky?” I imagine there could be some EM coupling going on there.

G,day where is it that you get your orange drop capacitors from . Cheers

I’m a Patreon of Mr Caldeira and am planning to also build this. He currently does not provide a build parts list (part#, specs, source or price). I’ve been searching for days to compile a list of what I will need to assemble the project. Things like resisters and diodes are pretty simple, but some of the other parts are substantially more impactful. I’m greatly concerned that in ignorance I will either alter the project, or compromise safety by changing a critical spec. Do you have a build list from your endeavor? Great job !!!

Was wondering where you got the case from and does it have a model number

That's a loverly old radio :-D but something is generating a lot of noise or the front end is detuned. I would expect it to go very quiet if you grounded the antenna input, if it doesnt then you still have a problem inside. Mica capacitors in the tuning cans can be trouble as well. I hope you don't give up on it, really nice set :-D

Hello friend I want to buy like your transformer. Plz give me the link.thanks