Needs gloves also!

#0000 FINE STEEL WOOL..... Often called: "Four-Ott". The key is to use the finest grit of steel wool you can which effectively removes the finish (Varnish, Lacquer, Poly's). The lower the grit #, the more abrasive the steel wool. Patience is the name of the game....like he said, "Let the stripper do the work". Many people get impatient and want to be able to remove all the finish with one coat of stripper, that's a mistake. Each subsequent layer of stripper will soften the finish products more and more. Basically, you don't want the steel wool to leave scratches or swirls in the actual wood grain. The one thing he didn't mention, because this video was purely about how to "Strip" finishes, is that it's CRUCIAL TO FIRST THOROUGHLY CLEAN the surfaces you intend to strip. Scrub the cabinet doors with TSP to remove ALL the dirt, oil, wax, Silicones from furniture polish, and grease, before you strip or sand. This is hugely important because you don't want any of those oils, grease etc... to have a chance of penetrating into the wood because it will "Contaminate" the wood surface. If the wood surface gets contaminated, it WILL greatly effect how the new finish applies. Contaminates in the wood can cause a "Fish-Eye" appearance to occur in your finish which is a complex nightmare to deal with.....you may even have to strip-off your new finish and start over. Mohawk-Finishing sells a few excellent products you can use as a last step before applying the new finish to ensure the wood is completely decontaminated: 1) Silicone Wash 2) Wax Wash Remover.....

Thanks for the reply. If this stripper will penetrate dry oil base paint, then it will surely dissolve any oils or wax that are still on the surface before stripping.

A different cab with better speakers would accomplish that, and give more clean volume as well