oscillating knife would be terrible for latex. This is a co2 laser, not fiber. I built the machine and the laser alone is about 20k, so it's probably not as affordable as you might think. The cheaper Chinese lasers work as well and you really dont need a lot of power but you want good air assist and good fume extraction.

I really have never had an issue with burnt edges.

@@Mara-xd7bg I don’t remember specially but this machine is unlike anything on the market so the numbers won’t be good for anyone but me. Not much help. Sorry.

Same size as far as I can tell.

@@JerryBiehler Hmm

Yeah. A little overkill.

@@JerryBiehler Nothing succeeds like excess.

Took him a while but he is getting it.

Head connects to power supply with a straight through DB25. Manual here drive.google.com/file/d/1lG4_BgPkRlXXt4Co4yaVshGmox7OPLwZ/view?usp=drivesdk

@@JerryBiehler Thank you very much!

@@JerryBiehler Good afternoon. Faced with another problem: There is damage on the control board inside the source, the PIC16C63A-20/SP microcontroller burned out (designation on the board: U7). Do you have the opportunity to get the firmware of this controller?

@@wenigbremse sorry. I don’t.

@@JerryBiehler Thanks!

No idea. I assume there is something wrong in the circuit that senses the shutter position switch.

I installed a potentiometer where the old rheostats were so it uses the same knob to control speed.

It’s fine but I replaced it with a 5kw.

@@JerryBiehler 5!!! why so much? Lower rpm not enough?

@@Dev_Everything I had the motor/drive and the motor and drive were a newer series that has full time auto tune which means it does not care about the load or the chuck on it.

@@JerryBiehler Interesting. I am about to do this conversion. Is there anyway I could get the model number of the servo and drive? Id really like to just buy it once if possible.

@@Dev_Everything I used a Mitsubishi MR-H series drive. Though I would not used one if I were you because they need a special pendant to configure them. Id use a MR-J2 or newer Mitsubishi drive or Yaskawa Sigma-III or newer if you want to go that route. You will have to look up manuals to figure out the models to look for. the 3.5kw would easily be enough, that's 5hp. I kept the backgear and for most stuff you won't need it, but there has been a couple times it has come in handy.

Drain the oil Flip it base up. Remove the drive and cooling lines Remove the 4 screws on the plate below the connector and disconnect the oil pump connector. Remove the 4 M8 bolts holding on the base Remove the base, watch out for the oil pump connector so it does not catch on the hole it runs through You can see the conical nut, use a allen wrench or impact driver to remove the nut. The rotor will pull to the inlet of the pump There are 4 nuts that hold the bearing assembly retainer, remove those. Remove the bearing assy Open up the bearing retainer and replace the bearing Reverse procedure to put back together. Be careful when putting the base back on so you dont crush the oil pump wires. If you need a bearing I have one that has about 20 hours on it. Turns out the magnet bearing on the inlet of the pump was shattered on mine.

The pump uses a 140v DC supply. If you need one I have one that I dont need that I would be willing to sell. Its a genuine Pfeiffer supply.

@@JerryBiehler I'd be interested. What's your contact?

@@DeezNutz-ce5se [email protected]

There is no program. It’s a feature built into the servo drive.

Depends on if the laser has a built in driver or the diodes are just on the connector. If it’s just diodes you can test it if your power supply is behaves well and no voltage spikes.

@@JerryBiehler Thank you for reply. The laser have no driver and have a specific of 10-12V (CW) , 40A (CW) < 300W. My power supply can reach 10A@12V but i don't know if it's enough to test it.

@@astrolite I’d find a dedicated constant current power supply to run it. At only 10 amps you might not get past the diode’s threshold level. Something like this. www.ebay.com/itm/145007461296 the voltage does not matter as long as it is more than what is specified on the laser.

@@JerryBiehler Thank you so much, i will buy it and try these module. I've tried to share some pictures of my module with imagebb but the comment was removed. Btw great job with your laser cutter!!

@@astrolite you can email to [email protected]

Yes, they can see

It’s not that bad and it was free.

Tengo un problema similar si das con la solución por favor pasarme información gracias

I actually ended up replacing the motor with a 5kw servo, but not so much that it was not powerful enough but the new motor has real time autotune so it handles changes in load conditions better then the older motor and drive it replaced. If you are going to do it I recommend Mitsubishi MR-J2 or newer or Yaskawa Sigma II or newer, they both have the real time autotune. I also changed it because I had a motor and drive lying around that I would not have a use for otherwise. I used a 3.5kw MR-J2S servo setup on my mill spindle which works great.

Should be very good, I dont know yet since Ihave yet to get it out under the sky because I finished it just before weather went to crap.

Its used to coat samples for a SEM in carbon to make the sample conductive which helps the sample from charging up while imaging. Most of the time gold is used to coat via sputtering. But since my SEM has EDX for doing elemental analysis you need something conductive that is also transparent to x-rays, which carbon is.

@@JerryBiehler very cool. Ive watched some of your other vids and was wondering if your vacuum sensor is diy or bought? Ive seen that you attempted one diy. Did it work?

@@johnnycash4034 I only use commercial gauges, I may make my own interfaces but the gauges themselves are all commercial. There are plans out there to make your own thermocouple type gauges but its just not worth it for the price of used ones on ebay.

Yeah. I’m the one that was posting about it when the device popped up on hackaday.

@@JerryBiehler thought your name sounded familiar 😀

I am using bayside reducers before the harmonic drives to get higher resolution. You can really use whatever you find since the OnStep controller is programmable to whatever you have.

@@JerryBiehler Thanks for the quick reply! I get i can just find a sweat spot for high enough resolution and fast enough slew speeds. Would you say there's a sort of "minimum" reduction needed to be able to move the mount at sidereal speed?

@@MichaelLevAstro I’m not sure. I just used what I had lying around. I have way more resolution than I need and I use electronic gearing in the servo drives to fix that issue. You can just search the web for the resolution you are looking for. I can’t remember.

@@MichaelLevAstro also check my page on the project. There might be useful info there. hackaday.io/project/967-diy-harmonic-drive-equatorial-mount

@@JerryBiehler Thanks Jerry, much appreciated!

I said that? Huh. If I have them I have no idea where they are. Since I gutted the machine they kind of became useless.

@@JerryBiehler No worries thanks ..It was a great read the refit you did. I think I will gut it and use a Masso controller as I fitted one to my mill. I have been told to get a new Minark driver for the spindle motor it makes it go much better...I am toying with the idea of fitting Clearpath servos for the Z and X.

@@SimjetAU yeah. Ditch the old controller. And there should be a lot of options for a retrofit. Much more than when I did mine. Another option is a kflop which I used on my cnc mill. Bit of a learning curve with it but has lots of options.

That depends on if you really need one and cant find one. It's pretty subjective. If you wait around you might fine one pop up cheaper.

Hsd Engineering thanks. These are not hard to repair, just need the right tools.

@@JerryBiehler Always glad to hear competence in the field. As you could imagine operator error is one of the most frustrating thing from the repair end! Just scrolling through the vacuum guys here in yt while in partial lockdown. If your ever in need of equipment repair or replacement we work with resellers and personally do component level repair specializing in the electronic end. Stay safe out there, and may you have high vacuum! -Tyler

That message is in the manual. I am too lazy to look but I think it means Base Off, that usually means that you have not brought the Servo On terminal high to enable the drive.

Ali Asgar Khawasawala depends on the laser. A q-switched UV DPSS will.

NSK is japanese.

Ainda pior hahahah

Nope, I didnt make him and the person who did passed away.