Very nice work.

I’ve just picked up one of these machines off marketplace. Just wondering on the qctp you have installed on yours. Definitely do g this upgrade in the near future, great idea!!

Great little project. Well thought out and executed.

chinese?

Nice job. I used some .625 plate for mine. I also made a dead center for it. Make chips that dont need dips!

My dad has been a machinist for 50 years now where they produce titanium for companies like Boeing. Using the dial indicator method is the only way he centers material in a 4-jaw chuck.

Barbell weights for their cast iron. I'd never made the connection, brilliant!

Probably not doing that method because they don't know about it. Good you made this video

Very nice rotary table. Something I still need to get.

I just bought a 4” three jaw Vevor for my rotary welding positioner. You don’t need a great chuck for that. What people have to understand is that it’s just amazing that they can make equipment for these prices. But in understanding that, you also have to realize that they have to save money where they can. So an extra cleaning cycle and deburring parts that don’t affect the function are not done. Sometimes, I find some burrs on parts that shouldn’t have them. Overall, everything that is cheap should be taken apart, cleaned and deburred, if necessary. Just think of that as your part of the savings. One guy recently bought a Vevor 10” 4 jaw chuck for $125. Through the entire process of taking it apart, cleaning and deburring it, he was giggling and complaining that it wasn’t made like a more expensive product. Some people don’t get it and just think that complaining about cheap Chinese (or Indian, now) products makes them seem as though they know more than they obviously do. My little 4” chuck was also tight when the jaws got to the center. Some deburring with a small diamond file fixed the problem. Here, he understands that it’s to be expected, and he fixes it without the nonsense complaiming I see in too many other channels.

Nice work.

I purchased an 8 inch diameter gray cast disk 3/4" thick from McMaster-Carr for $37 USD to do mine. I purchased an independent 4 jaw chuck to allow me to dial in oddly shaped parts. I like your idea of using York weights. It never occurred to me that I could do that. I will use your idea if I can afford to add a 3 jaw scroll chuck to the rotary table in the future. Great video and great job on the project! You earned my subscription!

I believe I would have taken it all apart and cleaned it, then lubed and set it all up.

wow very nice well done. im also a boiler maker local 555.

Impressive

Great Idea, I did the same thing on a 300mm rotary table, just be mindful of the hole in the center of your table is most likely tapered for a center if you are going to use it to locate your adapter plate The Problem with that being if you want to use it on longer through shafts that need to go through the center hole, I used 19mm plate and spigoted it to the table Outside diameter then used cap screws to hold it down, the adapter was spigoted with countersunk caps crews to a 250mm 3jaw chuck I was Luckey enough the adapter also fit a 6 jaw self centering and my 4jaw independent chuck. Depending on how accurate your needs are most 3jaw chucks have runout tolerances the cheaper the chuck the worse the runout throughout the entire holding range of the chuck Just because it's ok at 25mm dose not mean it's fine at 50 mm so use your dial indicator. You may even be able to get a small collet Chuck to suit the tapered center hole of the rotary table to Hold your smaller work accurately.

well done Johnny!

You should make a Morse taper with the same diameter as the hole on the plate it would make it so much easier to locate it to the center

Nice and simple.

Speak up,jeez.

here in USA they are a dime a dozen at the flea markets as everyone now want composite ones less noise i guess

The ones with York on them are the best & i get them at carboot sales/flee markets very cheap & the bar is good steel to turn down. Few tips, use a brazed on carbide tool with a good rad on it upside down with chuck running in reverse and use a vacuum cleaner under the tool to colect swarf, the faces don't clean up leave a witness or you will loose the width. From Coventry in the UK.

Glad you are happy with it now

Mi comentario no tiene sentido, quiero apoyar al Autor del canal ¡Gracias!2

I've got my chuck and rotary table in the ol wish list so i can do the same setup. I wonder if i can find an old weight to use as well 😆

I have found that most Chinese made lathe and milling tools need deburring.

I find their equipment not to bad for the price. My last chuck worked fine but they are not top of the range. that will cost 6 to 10 time the price. I have had top brand goods that have been so bad and after service non existent that I now refuse to pay for a brand name.

Impressive

Thanks for making these instructional videos for us, Johnny

Nice work. I like your rotary table. Another thing I need to get still

You are very creative. 😀

sweet

Hi Johnny may i ask you what diameter and pitch has your carriage lead screw and what is his length ,i am looking for this info for one of my project thank you Roman

How is the cover working for you?

Hi John, what are the light amps you are using on your lathe fitted to the magnetic base? Great idea for the tapping and die holder you have.

Nice work.

Nice work, I have the same lathe and wondering if I could get a lower feed rate, I guess this also gives a lower feed rate but at the cost of too slow for cutting. Have you tried gettting feed rates lower without loss of speed? I know other lathes have separate drive systems for feed, sadly not our lathe!

great idea

Good idea

You can now remove the threads & nuts to clear the cross slide handle.

Bonza work mate :-)

You have "vise" there. A "vice" will have the police after you.

Your setup is robust enough to do it under power.

Outstanding

Good job! it's a useful solution in other places as well.

Like it!

Smart!

Beautiful lathe you have there, i hope to be getting mine soon. Is there anyway to contact to you, Instagram, discord, etc? Id like to ask you some questions about your G variant. Either way im subscribing, hope to see the machine in action

As a logical downward extension of the existing speed ranges, it would be good to have the lowest speed around 30 rpm. Since you've already got the first reduction gear as large as will fit, that means reducing the drive pulley to a little less than half it's existing size. That might exceed the minimum diameter that the belt could handle without slipping or breaking though.