Hey there. Assuming you're referring to re-installing it. It's been quite a while but as far as I remember the tricky bit is keeping the push rod retracted while mounting the tensioner assembly. The push rod is what puts tension on the cam chain and if you just tighten the mounting bolts with it fully extended you might end up damaging the chain. Once the whole assembly is mounted you can slowly release the push rod until it puts tension on the chain. At 16:33 you can see the chain tighten as the push rod is released. Take a look at the diagram at 16:25. You have to use a small screwdriver at the end labeled "A" to retract the push rod (which is at the bottom of the diagram). Do this with the tensioner in place and try to get one of the mounting bolts tightened while still using the small screwdriver to keep the push rod retracted. Once the whole assembly is securely mounted (at least enough so that it can't pull away from the block) you can release the push rod and finish tightening up the mounting bolts. Hope that helps!

@@HwBtThmYanks Hi, thanks! What was unclear is that you need to turn the flathead screw inside not the threaded-holed phillips head thing. Thanks again and thanks for the video. I am repairing my versys-x. The lack of space where you need to work is a nightmare.

@@onthepegs Glad you got it figured out. Good luck!

getting to know kawasaki would be very surprised if there was more than some minor difference between the 300 and 400. More difference => more effort => less profit. Mind you they put the same block in the versys-x in 2017 and are still producing it. That is a 10 years old engine block.

There will be a few differences but the engine itself is the same design, I would try to hunt down torque values before you start but other than that the differences should be few and far

A big factor is what roads you ride on. Some places may have very smooth feeling roads, but could have extreme amounts of traction, therefore creating more friction and wearing tires faster.

Ahhh that makes sense. In Colorado where the roads were terrible I would regularly get 8-12k on battlax and Michelin powers..... In California the battlax only got 3k before I should have changed it, ran it to 4k because I couldn't find anyone to replace it where I was traveling home from and should never have done that last 1k.... Had to stop on the way and the vertical steel belts were showing on BOTH sides and all the way through...terrifying

Yeah, you should at least check the clearances periodically. No need to adjust if they're within spec. I believe the service interval is ~12,000 miles.

Just a few minutes away!

I'd agree with that for sure. It takes a lot of wiggling and elbow grease but it's not impossible.

Feel free to use that mute button.

The service manual recommends draining it but you don't need to. There's a valve in the fuel tank outlet that closes when the line is removed. There will still be a couple drips but if you have a rag under there to catch them you'll be fine.

Thanks man! Glad you enjoyed the video.

Thanks for the kind words. Glad you liked it!

Haha, didn't notice the thumbs up until now. It's a little nerve-racking starting it up after having everything apart but it's a good feeling when it all goes right. Thanks for the generous comment. Glad so many people are finding the video helpful.

I've always replaced them at the same time but you don't need to remove them to get everything apart. A nice side effect of leaving them in is that you plug up a couple holes that you could accidentally drop stuff into while the cylinder head cover is off 👍.

Glad the video was helpful and thanks for the info! I'll update the tags and description.

Thanks for the comment. Glad you enjoyed the video. It's not a DIY job for everyone and it's great to support your mechanic when you can!

Thanks for the kind feedback! Glad the video was helpful. Keep up with the oil changes too while you're racking up the miles.

They're just some cheap ones from Amazon. Added a link at the end of the description.

Thanks, Steven! Glad it was helpful.

I agree: This is great! Concise too. There’s also a very thorough 5-part series from “Ninja 250 Motorcycle Maintenance” that goes super in-depth about the assembly lube and gasket compounds and all that. The engines are the same and you can skip all the fairing stuff that doesn’t apply.

Thanks, Otara! Glad people are finding it helpful. There won't necessarily be any symptoms to let you know that this needs to be done which is why it's recommended at a specific millage interval. The only way to know for sure is to get in there and measure your clearances. By the time you notice symptoms your clearances will most likely have been out of spec for a while.

@@HwBtThmYanks Many thanks again, much appreciated!