Good job brother

Amsoil. Amway. Pyramid scheme marketing tactics. They want their dealers to be overzealous, overbearing carnival barkers. I'd rather run the M1 EP or their truck and suv formula in my little Ford. Then, their robust euro ESP in a Golf R. I like M1's use of alkalated naphthalene in their API oils. Clean. Good solvency/seal conditioner and lubricant with the base oils. Their additive package numbers are deceiving because the chemistry behind it is more advanced. For the money, they make a good product. Just don't expect the performance to be leagues above the other companies.' They're all competitive. With only a little bit shorter interval, house brand synthetics achieve a similar result.

I retired from ExxonMobil after 35 years working at one of the refineries. I’ve used Mobil 1 since the mid 80’s in all my vehicles. Never has an oil related issue with any. It’s proven well for me. Average driving towing boats and lowboy trailers sometimes. My two cents! Good Video. Thanks for sharing

What was the price

I think you made a great video. It’s worth noting that you can work with a dealer to get set up with a preferred customer account to pay a fair bit less for the AMSOIL to begin with. The second thing worth noting is the money savings you would experience by extending your intervals with theAMSOIL. The AMSOIL Signature Series is good for 25,000 miles or even in severe duty situations, 15,000 miles. That is where the real value comes in. There are also benefits to running the AMSOIL filter which filters down to 20 µm at 99% efficiency. I appreciate the consistent oil sampling you have performed along the way. I do like a real world test.

Thank you for your video, looks sharp. I'm going to be retiring next year. My home is on the NJ beach coast. Plenty of salt air and humidity. I plan on getting something similar to the husky you posted. Do they make one that is better on preventing rust ? Thank you for your comments / advice

I'll add I'm one of the lucky guys who lost a motor to the old pencil and will never buy from them again

Guessing you ran mobile 1 first of the three and did not run a short run of anything in-between the sampled oils

I had a 1999 Toyota Tacoma Prerunner that I put 140k miles on with only a couple of batteries, brake pads, and a starter solenoid. Then I made the mistake of selling it and buying a 2017 F-150 XLT 4x4. It now has under 29k miles and problems with numerous error messages and codes. They might all be related to a bad steering rack, bad ABS sensor, bad wheel bearing, or another issue that will light up all of the error messages. Advance Trac, Service 4x4, Hill Asist Fault, Steering Assist Fault, and several others. The clockspring was bad and now replaced. I'll likely never buy another Ford again. Quality is job one. LOL I wish that I still had my Tacoma.

I use Costco oil, best deal anywhere. Just change it at 5k or one year, whichever come first.

Finally a more responsive transmission

Your results are definitely within margin of error there's no difference. It may need a longer test. I'll have to try this myself.

These heavy-duty grade husky boxes are underrated.

Dang, that looks like a great box! I’m looking to upgrade but my three boxes are still okay and I’m good condition. Now, I just need a few draws to break so I can get this! This is pricey, but if you compare to the competition, it’s a good deal!

What's crazy is that's not even MOBIL 1s top oil, I use the MOBIL 1 EXTENDED PERFORMANCE in my 2017 Chevy Cruze 1.4 Turbo and have had zero issues with the oil.

amzn.to/3VXwpdk

Nice

Well as you stated this is just one test. And this test definitely didn't end "the debate". There is no debate that Amsoil is the highest quality synthetic on planet Earth. AND...as others noted, the filter matters. If you used an Amsoil lowest in the industry 20 micron filter, the Amsoil results would have been better. It's all about what you TRUST. I TRUST Amsoil because it is made by oil FANATICS. PERFECTIONISTS. SPECIALISTS. And their products show that. Mobil 1 is ZERO competition to Amsoil. I use Amsoil in vehicles, lawn equipment, 2 cycle oil mix, guns, bike chains, multi-purpose - because I trust Amsoil. And if you talk to 10 different men - they will give you 10 different opinions on oil. I use the OLD SCHOOL RULE of changing oil every 3000 miles. Why? Is that overkill? Absolutely not. TO THE WORLD - THE REALITY: it's not the oil that is the problem - it's all the DIRT / COMBUSTION PARTICLES, etc. that is the problem. If an engine's oil could be kept completely perfectly clean like HONEY, then anyone could go longer on oil changes. That is not reality. Even with Amsoil my oil changes come out almost black on a high performance Nissan V6 3.5. A real test would be to take identical cars - use same brand oil and filter - go at least 30,000 or even 50,000 miles - do total engine break-downs and look under a microscope at the cylinders, and other engine parts. And I don't get paid a cent for being a loyal Amsoil fan.

Looks like a good box.

I think I'm gonna stick with Mobil 1. It's "low" additive pack is deceiving, as not only does it utilize a tri-nuclear molybdenum, but the stuff I'm using has a 'high tech' alkalated naphthalene that holds contaminants in suspension along with not getting in the way of ingredients in the add pack like esters can. I have their 0W-20 EP in my Mazda based N/A GDI 2.0 duratec Ford EcoSport engine. In the spring, I'm considering their 5W-20 Truck and SUV formula. It has the best shear stability and NOACK strength out of any of the mainstream oils out there for the application. About as good as their 0W-30 ESP I use in a 2019 Volkswagen Golf R Wolfsburg edition. No one beats its cold flow either. Excellent for MI winter, here.

Try Havoline full synethic life long pro DS 5 w 30 love this oil

this is a great video, your video give me new knowledge about amsoil and mobil 1..Thanks..

Great job at looking at both oils. I’m doing similar comparison but I’m doing 3 oil change intervals on Valvoline Restore & Protect… then switching to Amsoil High Mileage and doing same 3 OCI’s to compare. My concern is varnish and carbon build up resulting in oil consumption. That’s why I selected the oils to compare. Both oils you used will give you excellent 6k results on wear. Amsoil will probably have the edge on keeping your engine cleaner over the long haul. Great video!!

unless you are doing changes every 3000 miles, go with an oil that is made with base group 4 0r 5 oil. not a base mineral oil that claims to be synthetic

Lubrication engineers best in testing

When I get a new engine, my first oil change is between 60 and 100 miles, and I put conventional oil in. My second oil change is between 500 and 1000 miles, and then I swap to synthetic blend. After that, I do 5k mile oil changes using fully synthetic oil. This is the process I learned from my dad and grandpa.

500 mile 1st oil change is a complete waste of time and money. Im not sure what you're trying to do. Any metal fragments will get caught by the filter. I cut open the filters after every oil change. Brand new, 10k mile 1st oil change? Nothing. No metal flakes. Nada.

100% synthetic and full synthetic are the same thing. Amsoil may be a blend of group 3 and group 4 base stock just like “full” synthetics are. Pursuant to a 1990’s law suit between Castrol and Mobil 1, courts ruled that group 3 and 4 base oils are synthetic, therefore any oil that contains one or both of those groups, regardless of proportions, can be called synthetic. So as long as Amsoil contains group 3, even if it’s 100% group 3, they can legally call it 100% synthetic. Thus, 100% synthetic and full synthetic are synonymous. Amsoil admitted this in one of their own blogs.

Nice to see a real world thing, all very nice and all with the lab results (like that oil guy channel), but WHAT IS THE BOTTOM LINE?!??!?! I use Ultra Platinum ( 0W-40) for my Challenger Scat Pack.

Break in oil should be conventional oil then swap out to synthetic this is important

The biggest claim to fame Amsoil has is the increased oil protection life. Basically, if you are spending extra on the Amsoil but NOT increasing your change interval, it is a waste of money and damn near all the full synthetics will perform similarly up to around 6k-10k miles. I like using Amsoil in things like my drive differentials as it’s cost is very similar to all the other heavyweight gear oils, and I acknowledge they are a good quality product, but I refuse to pay the inflated cost for engine oil that I change at 7500 miles in my current vehicle (7qts). Increasing the oil change interval, although most dexos certified claim 10000 miles interval, only increases the total ppm of corrosion and wear products in your oil. Increasing your change interval is the best chance you have at causing increased wear and tear on your engine due to the higher amount of impurities in your oil.

Good Idea.

Good idea

It seems in tests online mobile 1 falls short yet everyone buys it. And no one complains

4-5k mile intervals on my 2.7 Bronco with the best I can get at Walmart. Either Mobil 1(20k mile version), or the new Valvoline Restore and protect.

i tell people all the time i have never heard of motor failure due to too frequent maintenance

For sure, my first oil change is 500-1k miles. Differential / Xfer case at 5k. Cheap insurance in my mind.

A friend of mine bought a new 2017 Tacoma years ago. He followed Toyota's guidelines changing the oil every 10,000 miles from day one using Castrol full synthetic and OEM filters. Truck today has 96,000 miles and uses no oil, runs great, no leaks, and no sludge detected. He used a high-tech fiber optic camera (from his line of work) out of curiosity to examine parts of the internal motor the best he could with no disassembly and no sludge was detected. He does not baby this truck but runs it daily for work purposes. Thoughts to ponder... Castrol is great oil? Toyota may be ok with their guidelines? Toyota makes a great engine that can take long change oil intervals?

I bought a new '23 4Runner the first week of September last year and the first oil change was at around 600 miles. I changed it again the first week in November with just another low 750 miles on that change to get it in line with my usual oil change interval on my other 2 cars. I used 0w-20 on these first two changes but then switched to 5w-30. I used 0w-20 for the initial break in period just in case there is some truth to the cold flow characteristics of 0w versus 5w as the base oil. After that I changed to 5w-30 as after some research I found out that the rest of the world uses 5w-30 in the 1GR-FE engine that is in the 4Runner along with many other Toyota models. I'm an old guy and think that this new super thin oil is just not "thick" enough to provide a proper amount of oil "film" on moving parts. In my opinion these new thin oils depend too much on the additive package to make up for the low viscosity of the base oil. I will admit that this makes buying oil easier as all of my cars are now on the same "weight" of oil. I do oil changes every 6 months or 6k miles weather either of these variables have been met or not. I have a '12 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 5.7 Hemi with 120k on the clock that has not developed the notorious "Hemi tick" so far.

Having driven for over 50 years , I’ve never worn out an engine. I will say I’ve never kept a car over 10 years. My early days I changed oil every 6mos or 3000 miles. Using semi synthetic oil, every 5000, and full synthetic every 8000 or one year whichever comes first. I have friends that go the same interval and have kept them for 300,000 without engines wearing out. Hondas and Toyotas.

Going to any Chevy dealer is a waste of money.

It is a good idea although I will never buy a new computer module electronic car but the society's too stupid to understand how engine works so it never happens

Oil is cheap, engines are expensive.

I remember seeing the owners manual for an early 1950s Buick that recommended the first oil change at 500 miles. Keep in mind that your oil analysis only measures microscopic and molecular sized metals. The macroscopic metal glitter particles don't necessarily show up in oil analysis, but contribute significantly to wear, iron and steel particles in particular.

I have no idea if it's necessary, but here is my schedule for every new vehicle I have ever bought. 1st change at 500 miles, 2nd change at 2000 miles, 3rd change at 5000 miles, and every change thereafter every 5000 miles with fully synthetic oil ONLY. I've never had a motor or oil related problem over the last 32 years.

100% agree with early oil changes. I just did my first one at 660 miles.

I think the question to ask is whether or not there is sufficient protection with modern oil packages to mitigate the effects of, not just 500 miles or so, but as Blackstone refers to ‘a few oil changes’ worth of it.

I haven't seen any oil that compares to Amsoil in any third party testing. I feel the Mobil 1 is just average oil and was surprised the Pennsoil tested very high in most categories. I use Amsoil in all my collector/race cars and Pennsoil Platinum in my daily drivers. FWIW

500 mile oil change on a new car is a very good idea.

I agree. I did my first one at 1,130 mile mark. I change it every 6 months whether it needs it not. I drive less than 5000 miles a year so I average a little less than 2,500 between oil changes. It a 2022 with an extended warranty so I’m not taking any chances with the dealership coming back and not honoring it if I ever get any engine issues.