Yes, I ship to Canada, for just additional shipping costs, luckily this piece is not specified under ITAR rules. You can email me at [email protected] for details

Just Facebook page under the name ‘Remington Man Dave’

Nah it does 9 at a time pretty good. They ain’t free though. I’ve done A LOT of polishing on it. If you put 10 in the magazine, the first one jams every single time. But if you only load 9, it runs almost flawless.

Yeah you can just shoot me an email at [email protected]

You’ll need to look more closely at it they use abs or nylon for a lot of those items. You can try scraping the part with a knife or like ‘carving’ a small bit off and listening to the sound it makes. If it sounds grainy, it’s likely glass impregnated nylon, no grainy sound it’s not glass impregnated which could mean plain nylon or could be abs. Now take the shaved off tiny piece and try to heat it. If it gets very liquidy like water on the surface, nylon. If it heats and heats and looks pretty much the same as while it’s cool, just sticky, it’s likely ABS.

White from harbor freight is abs. If it’s nylon (even glass filled nylon) you can use black zipties for filler. Just gotta be more careful heating glass filled nylon as it tends to kind of burn on the surface if you heat it too quickly. Nylon and especially glass filled nylon welds best with the soldering iron method.

Haha thanks it’s one of those brands that’s got a bad rap so I did this video cuz I was trying to sell it at the time, they do ok with some polishing in the right areas.

@@gallupcustomknives2293 They kind of look like a cross between a Buckmart and a Mark III

@@ryanmckee6971 yeah it’s a funky one. It’s actually .22 magnum and unlike the two you mentioned the whole slide cycles not just a small portion at the back. It’s almost like a shrunken 1911, but then with a longer barrel haha it’s a funky one for sure. Fun little tack driver though, and this one had some pretty sweet target sights too. I’m actually kinda glad it didn’t sell.

@@gallupcustomknives2293 Huh, interesting. Yeah that thing sounds pretty cool.

I just use the cheap crappy harbor freight blower. Since this video I’ve done a bit more with hdpe as well as nylon. The hdpe does better by heating the base material then laying on a thin strip of filler (I use old milk jugs, washed and cut into strips) and then pressing with a room temp polished steel shaft. For nylon, the blower really doesn’t work very well for me, but rather, a soldering iron set to low temp, and just push the nylon filler into the crack you’re joining. Using the blower with nylon actually liquefies the nylon and it becomes very runny on the surface, then blows away, even with my air regulator set as low as possible, I end up with little strands of blown nylon like spider web strand. But the soldering iron and just pushing the filler in works well with nylon for me. Thanks for watching my video! And I must mention your gorgeous car in the thumbnail!

@@gallupcustomknives2293 thanks for that tip, i probably should have asked about the PP/Polypropylene (that's what I need for repairing Vehicle bumpers) Polyurethane & ABS as well... The others I prob wont be Actually using. Any tips for those 3? Like same thing, which apply better by air heat, or which are better to apply by direct contact (heating the surface, with either a teardrop style soldering gun or the triangle flat area type soldering gun for wider contact areas and corners with more so the flat fiber flex sticks for PP repair) I know for prepping the surface a teardrop dremil is first used to create a valley (V groove) then using a the air heat or even possibly the direct heat of a teardrop style would be good for the long round style... The go over on top of that with the flex fiber flat ribbon styles, using just the flat triangle soldering head (or would you even recommend just using the heat on this too?)

@@tnasituning8173 PP melts similar to nylon, but not as bad, for PP I use the air iron but reduce the heat and reduce the airflow slightly, all I use is air iron and fill by hand, I’ve thought about getting different tips for my air gun, with rod feed guides, but I’ve not yet really needed to for the kind of work I do. I like doing polycarb and abs the best, they act similar. Of the types you’ve mentioned the ABS should be the easiest to work with.

greg con lightening the track and making it more flexible, as well as helping expel snow that otherwise gets stuck inside. If you’re not familiar with snowmobiles, it’s basically the same as putting a lighter set of wheels on, you’re reducing the rotational mass, freeing up horsepower that was otherwise wasted.

If you are a car guy, it’s like putting motegi traklite wheels on, if u r a street bike guy, like putting BST carbon fiber wheels.

I have own several snowmobiles and I still don’t understand your concept. Drilling large holes will make that track rip out. I have never heard of anyone doing this and don’t recommend anyone doing this at all. Why doesn’t anyone do this ? Because there is no reason why. You ride and get one stick caught in those holes it will rip your suspension to shreads.

Most modern sleds come with ported tracks nowadays. More so than I put in on this one. It’s not a new concept, most old school hill climbers started doing this 10 years ago, and would put 4-6 ports across per track lug, like every 3” that’s why they come like that stock now, because the lost structural integrity of the track is minimal, yet the weight savings, flexibility, and snow evacuation are pretty huge. It’s not for everybody, especially not for the faint of heart, but I’m not reinventing the wheel.

@@gallupcustomknives2293 do you mean the driver holes?

I am Kyo Kyo can you still acquire oversize piston? If you can, I can bore the cylinder for you. On my own gt80 (red one) I’m currently battling with the points ignition, I installed a brand new secondary coil, and after cleaning and adjusting the points, I now get a spark, but it is extremely weak. Trying to decide if I should get a condenser or primary coil first.

@@gallupcustomknives2293 i got extremely Lucky. the Cylinder walls are Spotless. almost pristine infact. gunna Hone it with a Super fine Grit to just be sure and then slap a stock bore piston in and Call it good. trying to keep it all original as its the bike i Learned to ride on 15 years ago

also the "Oil Leak/Squirt" is a Breather passageway/pressure vent

Awesome! Keep me posted on how the rebuild comes out!

@@gallupcustomknives2293 Yeah. gotta track down a Standard Piston First haha. im seeing the Forseti Kits online but the Quality is unknown. and an OEM piston is way too expensive.

2 stroke engines never vent the crankcase but it very well could be just a transmission vent.

Thanks for watching!

@@gallupcustomknives2293 correct, it is a vent.