@@Cachi142 Pull the plugs crank / Turn over the engine!

@@cjphillips987 i di it perfect

@@Cachi142 Fantastic let me know if you need anything else Pass it on Help others!!!

@@Charlie-um1fr Thank You for Your Opinion.

@@AaronGeribon if your ski is running Hot you don’t have correct cooling water flow as far as reving High need more information

@@cjphillips987 where should I start with the cooling system ? Do I have to remove engine to clean ports in the intake?

Also reving high as soon as I start the ski rpm’s start to escalate with touching throttle. Has never done that up until I’ll blew compressed air into on of the cooling system lines. No once’s it starts it idles for a quick second and starts to rev as if gas is being given

@@AaronGeribon Blowing Air through Water Jackets is Useless Water must flow freely with correct Volume The High RPM is seperate issue

@@cjphillips987 so any ideas where to start ? Do I have to remove the engine ?

@@leoarevalo1459 it depends on how it’s messing up? 🤔 Not closing or not opening

@@cjphillips987 When you open it, it doesn't return, it stays accelerated, the water scooter can teach me step by step and if I have to pay you, I will do it, but I need to solve it, my friend.

@@donaldmoore5984 depends on certain conditions, any water compressed will push past the rings into the crank case, Is your engine running , and showing signs of water in the oil?

kzbin.info/www/bejne/qpm3l2V7frybkNEsi=1MYm6GjcBNJlfe9a

@@cjphillips987 Hi CJ, firstly a very well presented KZbin explanation, thank you! And yes, engine is running. It is a 2006 FX Cruiser HO. End of last season it wouldn't start - I took it to a local shop who said it had water in it... they replaced the plugs which were corroded and did a couple of oil changes to get the water out of the oil and they winterized it for me... they told me the wave runner must have been submerged or flipped - which it has never been... Start of this season they suggested I bring it back so they could check it out further. I took it in and they said (without looking at it) that they remembered it from the end of last season and the engine would need replaced! Two seasons ago it had a new engine put in because the oil filter had a crack in it and had leaked the oil and blown the engine (a son who thought the warning sound was low gas!) The engine probably has less than 15 hours on it since being replaced... Needless to say I'm reluctant to put another new engine in - not to mention unimpressed that the shop mechanic said to replace the engine without really looking at it, felt like they were looking for an easy sale... I took it home and ran it on the hose, it ran fine but after 10+ minutes the oil was showing signs of water again. I have done a fair amount of wrench work over the years on cars and this weekend was going to check for water in the cylinders (as you show) and also check the compression before going further. Assuming compression is ok it was I thought I'd check the exhaust seal next. (roughly how long does that take to replace?) Appreciate any advice you can give 🙂

@@donaldmoore5984 Before spending funds to replace engine Identify where any moisture is coming from , i.e. ( Oil Cooler etc ) a compression check and leak down test verifies piston rings / Head gasket. Question How long of time does ski sit and in what environment? Moisture builds up inside crank case the drops in the oil as engine heats up How milky the oil is tells how much water is building up. If small amount, Change oil and filter and monitor changes to understand if you have an oil cooler issue or moisture flash off from sitting.

After i installed the CASE vent filter I capped off the intake where all of the Crank Case vent hose was attached No more oil vapor or splash over gets into the air intake.

All new K S’s must programed / Tuned for range of sound. They are a microphone!

I understand your grief, This is Why I posted this and many other DIY Videos exposing the Stealership / Mfg Secrets of many items. Hopefully this has helped you Help Others Pass it on and Subscribe to my Channel, Thank You Let me know if you need anything else.

@@cjphillips987 did the procedure after getting the new knock sensors in, still getting p0327 only. Thought for sure it was just a bad sensor, one of them that I pulled had gotten moisture trapped under the plug and it was more rust than sensor. Guess I gotta make sure the wiring back to the ECM from the sensor plug is good, harness was also replaced. Truck runs well, I can’t hear or feel any knock. I know it’s about time for a set of plugs, gonna also do those in case there is any minor knock that I just can’t hear.

@@mxss115 FYI Clear all Codes before Performing Learn / RPM Procedure. I understand the Frustration, The KS's must be Learned to Listen for Harmonic Range of Engine RPM to set a Low to High Standard of listening to the Engine to adjust the Fuel Ratio through the EMC. . After Replacement or Relocating Verify both Wire Harness Connections and each KS's are valid If So you Should not have any issue. Let Me Know

@@cjphillips987checked the KS with a multimeter set to AC at the PCM plug, definitely getting a reading when tapping the valley cover with a screwdriver, so wiring and KS should be good. It’s an 06 Yukon Denali if that changes anything. For the learn procedure, I started up the truck (after clearing codes or disconnecting battery, have tried many times now) and rev it to 5k, hold for 5 seconds as steady as I can, then let it drop to idle, wait a few seconds and do it again, then a third time to be sure, then I go drive the truck. Also tried turning truck on and off between revs, so far after a few mins of highway driving it continues to come back.

Y told me the motor ist locked and don't know the

Means

If you cannot identify current Engine Code / Codes then it requires process of elimination to locate the root cause and repair or replace for corrective action. Need detailed information of actual conditions

Thank You, !

After relocation follow kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y4G3oZmNn6lsrJosi=bQJ8mybR_m7ZxGm6

@@cjphillips987 Thank you !

Thank You We Belive So, It's time to do Better!

It should work unless you have a bad sensor or a harness issue, mine is still working no issues since i did this!

If the information helped please like the video, pass on the information! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻😎

Stripped in Original Position or on the side of the Head external?

@cjphillips987 the Inside of the Knock sensor hole is stripped like the actual inside the knock sensor threads into , I just bought a aftermarket PLM knock sensor for my 09 Civic Si ( k20z3 motor) And They told me it was for my motor plug n play And I went to put it in and it felt way to tight uncomfortable tight , kept going because they said it was fine Over the phone. It wasn't fitting snug against my block there was a finger nail width distance. So this next morning (today) I went to back it out some and retighten trying to get snug because I was told it should. And Righty tighty because loose fast Now the threads inside the bolt hole are all jagged and The oem broken sensor won't even go in

Ok let me ask correctly Are the threads you are referring to the Original mount position external or hidden under a manifold? Can you See it with out pulling components

@cjphillips987 they are under my Manifold I have to take off the part that latches the engine to get to it

@cjphillips987 if you have a email I can email you a picture of the damage

I left the new ones in place.

I replaced the front one which was throwing the code back to original and now it's throwing the back code of 332

I use ac Delco sensors and harness but the new sensors our an updated version of the original.

@@robertrogers3149 you can relocate the sensors with out pulling the manifold

Just some info I found out. If you use URO sensors they work fine.

Clear the Code start the engine perform the rev process Shouldn’t have code pop up unless you have a bad KS or Wiring Issue

I’ve been driving 5 + years no code

Trying to Share , go from Unknown to the Known!

I understand the Original issue was the ECM, after replacing it then you must teach the ECM / KS’s Rev Procedure!

UPDATE: No more codes since replacing the ECM. Did not do the rev procedure after replacing ECM. Glad this thread is here, however, to help others.

1994 4 .3 purge solenoid replace w 4'

purge control valve and hoses how to replace what's location

Morning Sir, Yes clear The codes perform the Procedure.

@@cjphillips987 fingers crossed

No luck. 15 miles, check engine light. The knock sensor I installed from O'Reilly auto, not genuine Honda parts. Could that be the issue?

@@tigersblood12212012 it’s a KS or Wire Harness / Connection or ECU issue.

@@tigersblood12212012 Possibly but it’s definitely a KS , Wire Harness/ Connection or a ECU Issue.

Hopefully it Helped you without replacing the KSr’s. Please like my Video and subscribe to my Channel Pass the information on to Help Others! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻😎

Same Cycle the ECU is Learning

You Can Also 👍🏻👍🏻

Sorry to hear you are having issues With your information It’s indicating one or both KS’s the connections, wiring or the ECU is the issue. Also when mounting KS’s do not apply anything to the Threads ! They must be metal to metal.

I have not had any issues or problems Since I installed them and made this Video Thank You 🙏

Where did you find those coupling nuts at

Sold both Ski’s and trailer a year ago, No issues!

It could be the voltage Regulator, the CPS sensor, the TPS or the Throttle cable too tight …. Is it showing any code? Podría ser el regulador de voltaje, el sensor CPS, el TPS o el cable del acelerador demasiado apretado .... ¿Está mostrando algún código?

E notado que el tacometro no prende esta apagado

@@user-zn8lm6hg1e El tacómetro se muestra en el ecu que lee el sensor de posición de la leva C

CPS

Question Did you complete the Rev procedure after installation of new KS’s ? If you have and your wiring is good you have an ECU issue. Let me know Thank You 🙏

FYI Do not put anything on the KS threads, they must be dry metal to metal otherwise it interferes with the KS noise sensitivity

Morning good to hear it worked for you, however the Ding ? Maybe your ECU’s picked up the door was adjar or Seat belt wasn’t fastened when you Reved it to 5,000 RPM ? Haven’t heard of any Ding Bell before! If under normal driving No Codes Please Like the Video and subscribe to my Channel and Pass on to Others to Help Them! Thank You 🙏👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻😎 You did a Great Job, IT’s Fixed !

@@cjphillips987Maybe, I'll try it again and let you know. My P0332 came back after about 50 miles of mostly highway driving. My next idea to try and diagnose is to test the knock sensor pinouts at the ECU for the correct resistance values, to rule out any wiring issues... past that, I'm not sure what to do, besides take it to a mechanic and see if they know something I don't about how to fix this. Do you have any ideas for things I could try?

@@zbzbzbzbzbzbzbzbzb 50% of all KS’s are faulty from the factory, i was informed of this by the Delco engineer I spoke with. If it’s not the KS’s or wiring it’s the ECU faulty Without following the Rev procedure the KS’s will Code for sure.

@@cjphillips987 Wow, 50%? Every guide I've seen says to replace both knock sensors. So if you replace both knock sensors with OEM ACDelco parts, you have a 75% chance that one or both are broken? That's insane. I plan to validate that the resistance between the KS's and (-) is between 93 to 107 K ohms at the ECU. Do you know of any other tests I could do for the faulty KS's?

@@zbzbzbzbzbzbzbzbzb No due to they are Pizo’s / Harmonic

I understand your grief! I spoke with a AC Delco egineer, after a lengthy discussion, He informed me 50% of all Pizo Knock sensors are Faulty right from the Factory. With more research of the KS’s I discovered KS’s are just a Harmonic Noise microphone hence Vibration/ Harmonic microphone listening device , this led me to understand they must be tuned to accept the wide range of RPM noise from Low RPM to HIGH RPM otherwise they give Code constantly. When calibrated to the Wide RPM Range they listen for Knock / Harmonic Vibration out side of adjusted Range, then come on.

@@cjphillips987 How ever their quality control is very bad if that's so ...! Also the gas is being lower quality ( adding more ethanol ) the older tune on the PCM doesn't like it..!

@@Wildkat-1 I agree considering this also adds issues unseen and overlooked 👍🏻

It’s worked for all but 1, he had an ECU issue. Let me know!

@@cjphillips987 I’ll be damned. I’m shocked. I can’t believe it actually worked. I can’t thank you enough. I drove about about 20 miles (just a guess. I didn’t check the mileage) the last two times the lite came on at 5 to 15. It hasn’t come on YET. I certainly hope it stays that way. Thanks VERY much. How did you discover that and why isn’t it common knowledge?

@@jimgordon3206 it’s Not Common Knowledge for Sure! Stealerships deffently won’t Confirm it and Do not want any to know it! I Share my Knowledge of Hamonic Engineering with Those Who Listen to Understand vs Listen to Respond. I’m pleased to Know it Works for You, For your Payment I request you pass the Knowledge along, Share Often, Help Others!

@@cjphillips987 I’m glad to hear you say pass it on. I will. Thank you again.

@@jimgordon3206 I Thank You 🙏 Please also give a Like and subscribe to my channel, if I’m worthy. Thank You I’m pleased it worked for You! Good Job 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻😎

2005 MR-1 engine is 180 New condition 120 low point below that they definitely need Help!

Afternoon Sir It has worked for many K’s, only 2 had additional issues one is the ECU and the other never disclosed what was overlooked!

Did it work?

Update?

Update?

It depends on what your issue is?

@@cjphillips987 replaced sensors and harness twice, tried the fix in the video twice and after 100mi the engine light pops back on. I even tested resistance on the wires going back to the computer and nothing. Checked continuity while shaking the wires, nothing. Every avenue is a dead end...

@@gunsmoke132 Sorry to hear, if both KS are valid, connectors and wires valid, you cleared codes rev’d and code comes back you either have excessive noise coming from engine or a faulty ECU.

🤔 sad to hear, You Have bad KS’s or wiring issue.

KS and all wiring test good all the way to the ECM. I even put a new ecm on it and still can't get rid of the code. If I figure it out I will post on here. I'm glad it has worked for some.

@@ChrisWilson-qc9jq Question did you clear the codes first? Did you relocate them or put back in original position?

I have a set in the original position and I have a set relocated on each side. I reset the code and tried it twice but within about 10miles I get the pending codes then restart and another 10 the CEL comes back on. I even tried swapping the banks to see if the code would switch to bank 1 but no luck. Still bank 2 everytime.l

@@ChrisWilson-qc9jq sad to hear, The AC DELCO Enginer I spoke with stated 50% of all Pizzo K Sr’s they sell are faulty out of the factory! 🤔🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️

Sad to Hear, When striking the Tail Shaft you must hit it Straight any off angle bends the Aluminum Shafts. The Shaft Shown in the video is Carbon Fiber.

@@cjphillips987 right..lesson learned..just really sucks when ut all geared up to get ur bird back in the air...then summin like that happens...lol like gettin kicked in the sack lol

Relocation is preferable to replace bad K S’s easy NO Mechanical tear down required!

Can you send me a screenshot of the YDS Data ? If you are not getting spark check the C P S, Cam position Sensor

🤔 it maybe a timing issue… you say you have, fuel, Air, Spark? …

FYI; if the (T P V ) not TPS is open too much or the Throttle cable is too tight it will interfere with starting!

All put away tonight I’ll get out there tomorrow for sure.

Well as I’ve watched your other videos it is notable that the bilge pump runs in what I would consider and excessive manner. And it dawned on me that when hooked up to YDS bilge pump runs CONSTANTLY for as long as yds is connected. If I recall though none of the codes showed up for TDS. Now I’m wondering if the bilge is causing an electrical gremlin based on this video. I have to repair the lcd from sun damage but I’d presume this may be my issue?? I do get the temp alarm intermittently on ski but engine temp is well within range on yds