Lol it's not too bad to do!

Thanks!

I showed why and the clearance needed at 12:30 mark on the video. The stair framing, rail, springs, and treads themselves aren't flat and protrude up into your attic when folded up, and the door is closed, so you have to account for that.

No prob!

I just did the 1 top coat per the instructions.

I have good success with the diablo brand for my DIY stuff. I have used spider Milwaukee and diablo and some no name stuff. Diablo stood out the most to me for price quality and features.

That's wild. No prob DIY it!

Sounds like an issue with the led driver. Maybe needs replaced?

No prob, glad it helped!

Thanks Def use this tip in the future!

The box is the wireless receiver for the remote they install inside the mounting bracket up top by the ceiling.

I used rigid core lvp that has the underlayment already bonded to the bottom. Removed the nail strips and foam from under the carpet and put the lvp directly on top the carpet. I linked the original videos.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/fIiyephpjqmogas

kzbin.info/www/bejne/fJ-app6iqbmerLs

Welcome!

No problem, good luck on your project!

No bubls, it's an integrated led board.

The leds on the board have a very long life but if you did have to service you can remove the screws to drop the entire crystal shroud to access them.

Yeah they were old for sure, thanks for the info!

No and no. From what I understand it's mineral oil based. So no crazy odor and no must use outside guidelines. An open window or fan is plenty if using extensively. It takes very little product as well, a little goes a long way.

Neat.

Thank you, the family is definitely enjoying being able to use the bathroom now! So I normally just work at my own pace nights and weekends type stuff. I think overall was probably about 20-25 hours of work spread over 2 weeks. A small half bath can be done in a weekend if you have all the stuff ready to go. For me we had no clue what we were going to do so like some days would be a couple hours of wall patching then while the joint compound was drying, the wife and I would take a trip to the store to pick out new stuff and any supplies etc. A lot less stressful doing it that way, few hours here and there. Then for like big parts 4-6 hours of work on a weekend day etc plus this way it doesn't completely interupt your normal day to day home life. If you want to get a better idea of the details and timeline I linked the playlist in the description, was a 10 part series and I try to keep my videos in the 5-10 min range.

Thanks! Glad it was helpful.

Awesome, yeah, I think I will do a more detailed video on just how to wire in a fan remote and wireless receiver in the future! Thanks for the feedback!

That's unfortunate. Yeah, they need to be fan rated boxes for this reason. I always like the metal boxes as well for fans. Just inspire more confidence, lol. The main breaker will remove all power to the house. You typically don't want to do that. The smaller individual breakers can be used to remove power to rooms or branches one at a time as you work. And then some kinda of verification that the voltage is gone before you touch the wiring. I use a Klein non-contact voltage tester. www.amazon.com/Non-Contact-Detector-Klein-Tools-NCVT1P/dp/B099SJ6469 I'm from the mideast, and we like to run our fans year round, lol.

Highly recommend ordering Westinghouse Safe-T line. I use safe t pans for my entire house: they’re all metal with 70 lb fan rated and 150lb light rated! Even at the highest speed setting my fan doesn’t move at all. If you don’t need a pancake box, you could look at safe t box or safe t brace if you’re in between joists. I only install Westinghouse now. They’re a little more pricy but they’re the best and easiest to work with.

Correct metal boxes must be bonded to ground then you ground your device as well.

Not my favorite thing for sure.

🤣

Haha. Yeah, early on, I didn't realize I should make a full how to install guide for this one. I approached it as what I would want to see as I've installed dozens of fans and lights over the years, but the fandelier was new to me, so I approached it that way. Lesson learned!

No prob

No problem

Correct the color is called smoke and it's a very light gray/off white.

@@HowellHomeDIY543 awesome thank you!

No problem.

All the current stuff is too low voltage. Old analog lines could though especially when ringing. If you don't feel safe working on it then don't would be my recommendation.

12V DC. You can feel it, but it's safe.

Welcome!

It will be a 4" circle or octagon box. But that's not the more important factor. What your looking for is that it is listed as a fan rated box, lists the weight it supports and uses the larger #10 screws.

It's just some off white sprat paint I found in the garage that's a close match to my siding. If you don't have the paint I would get some color matched. Online apps can match colors off a picture now. I would have went that route if I didn't have the stuff on hand.

A mix of what your asking but screws were long enough for all to hit the subfloor. IIRC 2 holes lined up with original flange screw holes, if they didn't, I sent the screw through the original flange into the subfloor. I accounted for the thickness of both flanges and my subfloor thickness when I picked up new screws. Also recommended Stainless or galvanized screws.

On mine I can turn the light off with the remote.

I can dim it but it won't totally go off. Is it more than one button you push

Mine doesn't dim just has on/off and 3 colors you can switch through. Seems you have a different led controller setup than me. That's a common problem with some led dimmers is not going off all the way. There can be a slight current flow still which allows the leds to glow still when they are supposed to be off. Maybe reach out to the seller see what they say.

Thx for answering

@@DianeAllen-q3r no prob

Thank you, awesome good luck on your projects!

Thanks!

Here is the my thoughts at 1 year. kzbin.info/www/bejne/rIC2dK1po6qeidUsi=35hwWLAr9AOTWAs2

Will shoot a 2 year update here in a few minutes and upload it. Will inspect it real good and see what I think still.

2 year update is live: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jpXHq6Wth7CKnaMsi=jgrgkXQg-k2b-dy4

Thanks, yeah it's a Ryobi 18 gauge brad nailer. It shares batteries with a bunch of my other cordless ryobi tools. It's great for base boards and trim.

Thanks Alan!

My bad, the holes in the cover just click into the barbs on the base. You do need the cover oriented 90 degrees open or less.

They work with any standard water hose. If your hose ends are damaged currently, causing a leak, just using these connectors likely wouldn't fix the leak.

No problem. As far as I know the blue plastic "pancake" boxes are new work boxes, intended for new construction. Where as this metal version I used is labeled as old/new work so can be used in new construction or retrofit/remodel. I always look for the term "old work" when needing electrical stuff for remodeling existing stuff. I usually leave as much romex wire and the wire nuts in the box as I can as it's solid core wire and less flexible. But yes most fixtures include a cavity or mount with cover that offers plenty of room to house the wiring as well. In my case the fan/chandelier I installed also includes a remote controller housed in the fixture upper with plenty of room for the wiring. Even the flush mount led light I installed in my bathroom the other day had a cavity to house the wires and wire nut connections, vice having to shove them up in the box so you have options.

Thanks! Gota keep that water out.

It's called a knockout. You can use a screwdriver or punch and tap it out by hand or with a hammer etc.

That sucks, no issues with mine. I would start by checking the wiring and make sure everything is connected good and getting power.

Nah it's been great, 2 years later now. Here was the 1 year update. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gmOQf5qejs5ppcksi=FYG5DekHjiRifwxS