It's just some off white sprat paint I found in the garage that's a close match to my siding. If you don't have the paint I would get some color matched. Online apps can match colors off a picture now. I would have went that route if I didn't have the stuff on hand.

A mix of what your asking but screws were long enough for all to hit the subfloor. IIRC 2 holes lined up with original flange screw holes, if they didn't, I sent the screw through the original flange into the subfloor. I accounted for the thickness of both flanges and my subfloor thickness when I picked up new screws. Also recommended Stainless or galvanized screws.

On mine I can turn the light off with the remote.

I can dim it but it won't totally go off. Is it more than one button you push

Mine doesn't dim just has on/off and 3 colors you can switch through. Seems you have a different led controller setup than me. That's a common problem with some led dimmers is not going off all the way. There can be a slight current flow still which allows the leds to glow still when they are supposed to be off. Maybe reach out to the seller see what they say.

Thx for answering

@@user-og6or1cp6u no prob

Thank you, awesome good luck on your projects!

Thanks!

Here is the my thoughts at 1 year. kzbin.info/www/bejne/rIC2dK1po6qeidUsi=35hwWLAr9AOTWAs2

Will shoot a 2 year update here in a few minutes and upload it. Will inspect it real good and see what I think still.

2 year update is live: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jpXHq6Wth7CKnaMsi=jgrgkXQg-k2b-dy4

Thanks, yeah it's a Ryobi 18 gauge brad nailer. It shares batteries with a bunch of my other cordless ryobi tools. It's great for base boards and trim.

Thanks Alan!

My bad, the holes in the cover just click into the barbs on the base. You do need the cover oriented 90 degrees open or less.

They work with any standard water hose. If your hose ends are damaged currently, causing a leak, just using these connectors likely wouldn't fix the leak.

I tend to time lapse parts I find straight foward or easy, something Im working on for my install videos, sorry about that. You do need the door mostly closed or less than 90 degrees open to line it up for assembly as there are stops that limit how far it opens, give that a shot should easily snap in place when oriented correctly. It's Def a cheap piece but worked out great for my location behind the ac condensors where I use the outlet maybe once a year. I like the low profile ones in my other videos for areas I use more frequently. Near front and back doors etc.

No problem. As far as I know the blue plastic "pancake" boxes are new work boxes, intended for new construction. Where as this metal version I used is labeled as old/new work so can be used in new construction or retrofit/remodel. I always look for the term "old work" when needing electrical stuff for remodeling existing stuff. I usually leave as much romex wire and the wire nuts in the box as I can as it's solid core wire and less flexible. But yes most fixtures include a cavity or mount with cover that offers plenty of room to house the wiring as well. In my case the fan/chandelier I installed also includes a remote controller housed in the fixture upper with plenty of room for the wiring. Even the flush mount led light I installed in my bathroom the other day had a cavity to house the wires and wire nut connections, vice having to shove them up in the box so you have options.

Thanks! Gota keep that water out.

It's called a knockout. You can use a screwdriver or punch and tap it out by hand or with a hammer etc.

That sucks, no issues with mine. I would start by checking the wiring and make sure everything is connected good and getting power.

Nah it's been great, 2 years later now. Here was the 1 year update. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gmOQf5qejs5ppcksi=FYG5DekHjiRifwxS

If anything would do it this would be the product I'd use. I would sand it well and prime it also try to get the bottom edge of the drywall if you have room between the bottom and flooring.

You're welcome!

I would probably start my reverifying the wiring, make sure connections are good.

It's ment to be "floating" according to the directions so not fastened down by any means to the sub floor. The weight and locking in nature gives it its strength to resist movement from foot traffic but allows movement of the building/floor to prevent gaps buckling etc. So not sure how it would fair being taped directly to the floor.

Thanks ✌

No problem.

My ba, I hadd just done in depth wiring on on the previous ceiling fan video.

No prob 👌

Agreed my early videos are alot of rambling and not enough editing. Working on making them better as I learn this yt thing. Thanks for the feedback!

Yup, it dries fast and safe to sand or paint over in one hour. Granted in this room it may appear a tad darker as I was covering up that darker purple paint. But depending on how picky you are with your diy projects it will def be noticeable if you look up.

Common misconception. Just because a paint is oil based, it's not automatically shiny. You can get them in matt or flat up to full gloss. You are, however, able to obtain a smoother high gloss finish with oil based over water based in general. If I had to classify kilz primer sheen, I would say it's a step under satin almost a flat. I used satin white on my window trim, and it has more sheen than kilz spray primer. On a side note, don't expect it to blend. White is impossible to blend old with new. Even if it's the same sheen and color, the new white paint or primer will stand out compared to the old. Any white paint will lose sheen and take on a new hue over time. Just the name of the game with whites, my dad has been a painting contractor for over 30 years, so I've seen it many times.

@@HowellHomeDIY543 oh man so i'll have to paint the whole ceiling. Thanks for explaining!

You can always use the kilz primer as it will need done for the water stains regardless and then evaluate from there. Maybe you can live with it or it's less noticeable in your room based on ceiling height/texture room lighting, etc. But for me, I would notice it and go ahead and plan on rolling some flat white ceiling paint afterward at some point. No problem, thanks for checking about my channel! 😀

Also I have a video playlist of my daughter's room Reno where you can see what the kilz primer looks like on old flat ceiling paint I used to cover up over paint from the walls before rolling the ceiling flat. kzbin.info/www/bejne/rZWufXiNe5Zsnc0

I did not. My city does not require the homeowner to obtain a permit to replace existing electrical receptacles etc. They do require it for adding or moving electrical, ie. new wiring. Check your city's .gov page for where you live if you want to see what's required in your area. Sounds like to me you were correcting an issue in an existing location and bringing it up to code, as no box for a lightning fixture would fail any new construction nec code.

Indeed, it's just a personnel preference. I like to have as close to same heights on all my floor transitions as I can. Also prefer the joint as seemless as I can vice overlapping T-molds with steps.

No problem. I think it's a Milwaukee or Diablo hole saw I got from home depot. You could use a drywall handsaw as well.

Sorry about that I cut out alot as it's the same as a normal ceiling fan and I had already done a video with all those details.

No prob, thanks.

Thanks

@@HowellHomeDIY543 anytime

If you can see the brand and model maybe try a quick google to see what's what.

@@HowellHomeDIY543 tnxs,I will keep trying.

😆

Glad I could help! Good luck on your project!

Thanks, glad it was helpful!

Appreciate it!

No complaints has been great. I'm also still perfecting my cleaning routine/method. I've fully removed and cleaned it twice so far still looks new afterwards.

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks! I was able to pry my nails out with the claw of a small hammer and they came out easy for me. Had that not worked I was going to use a longer pry bar to get under the head of the nail to get leverage but the hammer claw got the job done.

Amazon , link and details are in this video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nGG4e5p8a5efmKcsi=eg-2JuU9WND5ncHs

I don't think I've done a floor register yet. Done lots of ceiling and wall ones though over the years in previous homes. New house has floor registers on first floor but I opted to replace them in the few rooms I've remodeled so far as they were the 30+ year old rusted out stuck ones and figured they weren't worth the trouble.

Glad I could help!

I hope so too! Good Luck!