It’s Colorado so I was a little nervous and then got over it. Our humidity is super low. I really wanted to do steel studs too but didn’t want to mess with the issues of attaching all the tongue and groove to steel studs. Good luck man!

@@chrislyles2443 we’re in the high country of Utah. I understand not being able to set the wood on steel studs.

Good morning. Here’s my logic as interior sweat was always a concern of mine too. The interior side of the corrugation is only going to sweat if 1) there’s available moisture inside reaching the metal and 2) the interior metal is a lot warmer than exterior side of metal. The prodex went in first with all seams taped. Then covered with traditional R13 fiberglass with faced vapor barrier too. Interior heat and moisture should never reach the interior side of corrugation. I have two backup plans. 1) there’s a small weep hole drilled in the corrugation below each window. And the original container vents are left in the top of the container walls. 2) I live in Colorado where humidity is less than 20%. Even with no insulation at all, i was able to heat and work in containers with no condensation.

@@chrislyles2443 Thank you for the detail. That is a huge help. I am in North TX and building out my first one where I'll spend significant time in it (utility/office/guest house). I have been trying to find a cost effective and idiot proof insulation method due to our extremes and high humidity in summer. I had settled on insulation board against container then frame inside with no further insulation after sealing walls. Leave existing vents and maybe add one more in the utility space. I was concerned about the sweating so moved to spray foam but that will cost at least a quarter more in price which effectively prevents any sweating, but poses it's own challenges along side added cost. Thanks for sharing. 😃

Spray foam will definitely do the trick. But I was concerned about cost and nobody wants to come to my container location. It’s wayyyy up in the woods. I also put a very hefty exhaust fan in bathroom to evacuate moist air. Good luck. Stay in touch if you need any more advice. Happy to help. We are currently moving into ours!

The shiny part is on both sides. (; front and back.

Toytec has been good for us. It’s been on the sequoia for about 5 years. Plenty of off-road action and it’s held up good. The height adjustment on the front is nice. We live in Denver and Toytec is a local company so i could get locally and avoid shipping.

Dude! I know. Because of bedrock below the surface both the container and utility pole landed where they are. It’s a good thing the other views are solid! (;

You can tell from my consistent panting it’s high elevation! We are at 9000 feet. Accessible year round. Barely. At 10,000 feet you get too much snow and it becomes inaccessible Dec-April.

Depends on the county. Some are easier to work with than others. But at the least they want engineered prints showing snow load, wind load, and topographic surveys. All of which cost some money. But we are using incineration toilets so no need for septic. Like most agencies, it’s a process to figure out the first time and learn.

I’ve got about 5k on them. Including some 4 wheel drive miles. They are solid.

It worked out okay and held the intended weight of the tent. I ended up in the long run switching to a Tacoma with a bed rack. It was closer to the ground and lower center of gravity for 4 wheeling.

It’s all unistrut material which is in the electrical section of Home Depot. Right next to all the electrical conduit. Two sticks of square unistrut. Two sticks of rectangular unistrut for the cross members. And the angled connectors. All in the electrical section.