14 күн бұрын
5 ай бұрын
Пікірлер
@progressivefrog3681 3 күн бұрын
I've only done Olive Oil once, led all the pitches (I think it was maybe 6 or 7 since I set anchors at obvious belay spots). Only the first pitch gave me a bit of pause, since there's not exactly a lot of pro on it. But the last, dihedral pitch, that ends in an easy walk-off, is stellar. Great hands & feet, a nut placement every 5 or 10 feet. My partner & I were climbing fast in those days (I'm 80 now, still climbing, but not very fast). We passed at least one party on the way up. As we were taking down the belay, the party we'd passed topped out. But the leader had a problem. He'd lost his car keys, it was getting late in the day, and he thought he'd last seen them at the start of the climb. Which was around on the other side of the Olive Oil formation. As it was getting dark & I had the only headlamp, I volunteered to go with him to look, about a 45 minute detour. The rules at Red Rocks require that you be out of the road loop by dark, unless you've called ahead to request a late exit, which I had. Well, we found the keys, but it was dark when we finally got to the parking lot. And there was a ranger there, with her foot on my partner's bumper (he was from Vegas & had met me at the car park), getting her ticket book out. I said to her, :Please check your list. I've called in for a late exit." She pointed at my car & said, "That one?" "Yes," I replied. "Yeah, that one's OK, she said. Then, she turned to my partner's car and started taking her ticket book out again. "Wait a minute," I said. "That's my partner's car. He must've called in, too." Once more, she checked her list, chuckled and said, "Yeah, you'd think so." (He hadn't.) Then, she chuckled again, said, "You'd both better start moving," walked to her car and drove away. No ticket. Believe it or not, some of those rangers do have a sense of humor.
@DougJF77 8 күн бұрын
Lovely pitch, one of the best channels for POV trad. Keep it up!!
@mkclimbing 8 күн бұрын
Thank you so much! I really appreciate that.
@AnsaHirvonen Ай бұрын
Wow mikä reitti! En yhtään oo kateellinen! :D Ansa
@deathmetalhablo Ай бұрын
Is there a guidebook for Kustavi?
@mkclimbing Ай бұрын
@@deathmetalhablo I have used 27crags. There are also topos at www.jammi.net website.
@passionateclimber1501 2 ай бұрын
Absolute stunning climbing
@mkclimbing 2 ай бұрын
That pitch was so sick!
@passionateclimber1501 2 ай бұрын
Well done !!! 👍👍 Looks like very sustained climbing in that groove. Also one needs to take into account the exposed position, so excellent lead 👌 I like your channel a lot and regularly watch your videos. Greetings from South Africa. Heinrich
@mkclimbing 2 ай бұрын
@@passionateclimber1501 thanks for your comment! Maybe the camera lies a little bit. That was actually quite slabby but still sustained. So nice to hear that! I hope you stay tuned for more.
@passionateclimber1501 2 ай бұрын
Will definitely continue to follow your climbs 😃👍 I wondered where you are from, but then realised you are from Finland, is that correct? I am also a climber and occasionally I post my videos on KZbin. Below is a link to one of my climbing videos: m.kzbin.info/www/bejne/eIvTpX1jj72ceqc Please feel free to let me know if you ever plan to visit South Africa. We have beautiful climbing here as well and I will be very privileged to climb here with you. Blessings, Heinrich
@mkclimbing 2 ай бұрын
Two thumbs for that 👍👍 Yeah that's true. I'm from Finland. That looked like a nice climb! It definitely made me feel like going there. In that case I'll let you know!
@passionateclimber1501 2 ай бұрын
Awesome 👍😃
@DIYSupply 3 ай бұрын
Nice climbing 😊
@isakhammer6558 3 ай бұрын
Have you tried any big falls on these systems? I am always a bit afraid that the systems with teeth may brake my rope if a do a 2m fall on a crux
@mkclimbing 3 ай бұрын
No I have not. That would not be good for the rope. But that should not be a problem because both devices follow up the rope while you climb, if you have enough weight on the ropes, so you don't have to take off any slack manually.
@andrewhunter6536 3 ай бұрын
All your nuts coming off is exactly why I don’t use an oval with a clean nose for racking nuts. I go hook nose offset d. I don’t know how you can tell which way around the oval is
@mkclimbing 3 ай бұрын
I used to have wire gate oval carabiners for nuts, but after dropping all my nuts a couple of times, I replaced those biners with solid gates. Have not been dripping the nuts anymore. I like the oval shaped more, because I find it easier to slide the nuts in the carabiner. I have not found that to be a problem to tell which side the gate opens, you'll see it. What happened in the video was my mistake. I accidentally pressed the gate while spinning the biner causing the nuts to come off.
@lefttrade940 3 ай бұрын
The last travers pitch really gives you the 🖕, saying «you ain’t done until your done!» good vids - thanks for sharing
@mkclimbing 3 ай бұрын
Definitely! But in a good way though! 😄 Thank you for watching.
@linksgrunversifft4270 3 ай бұрын
So jealous! When we were there my wife was pregnant, so we only climbed the shorter routes on Lofoten 😅
@mkclimbing 3 ай бұрын
The good thing is that the routes are not going anywhere. You can always come back.
@KlausJorgen 3 ай бұрын
How many meters is the ropes ?
@mkclimbing 3 ай бұрын
I think they are 60m. Not my ropes so I'm not sure.
@KlausJorgen 3 ай бұрын
@@mkclimbing You are climbing pretty far between the belays, so i was wondering if it was longer. Me and a friend want's to climb this route this summer. I hope I can mange to grow some bigger balls and do it 🤣🤣
@mkclimbing 3 ай бұрын
We simul-climbed the first three pitches, so that's why it looks like that. It was like 150m in total. There was like one harder part in the upper pitches, but the rest was relatively easy climbing. So no big balls needed 😂
@KlausJorgen 3 ай бұрын
@@mkclimbing so the ''crux'' is in pitch 12 right? -the route in general and the crux is not hard for the grade?
@JacobMcKell 3 ай бұрын
Pardon a potentially stupid question, but why do you lead with two ropes? I've only seen this when you have 2 followers
@mkclimbing 3 ай бұрын
Hi. Not a stupid question at all. Those are called half ropes. They are commonly used in trad multi-pitch climbing and alpine climbing. Usually in trad climbing, you cannot place the pros in one straight line (except if it is a single crack all the way up). The idea is to always clip the other rope on the left side and the other rope on the right side to reduce rope drag. You can find more info for example here: www.vdiffclimbing.com/half-ropes/
@JacobMcKell 3 ай бұрын
@@mkclimbing Thanks! This was very helpful and I learned something new!
@adebh 4 ай бұрын
You used a micro traction on one of the placements. I've not seen that before. Can you please tell me more about why? Or point me in the direction where I could learn more?
@mkclimbing 4 ай бұрын
Hi. That's used for simul climbing, so if the second falls, he won't pull the leader down. Probably I should have used two actually, because there's two ropes.
@Bossnibba 4 ай бұрын
You should not extend it, it will follow the rope up when you climb. If your follower falls you will get his weight on you and potetially get pulled off. Which is what the micro is there to prevent. Same goes for ropestretch when you climb with doubles. Simuel is fun and safe when done right, this is not it😅 Brent Berghahn has a greate article on the subject.
@mkclimbing 4 ай бұрын
Thanks for the piece of advice!
@Bossnibba 4 ай бұрын
@@mkclimbingkeep crushing👍
@AidanHoggard 4 ай бұрын
I also run with two ropes like you. I'm trying the Taz Luv 3 as a primary and Shunt as the back up. Both go up smoothly and have the benefit that when you want to descend you don't need to change anything - i.e. they both have a descend operation. Means you can easily go up and down hard sections and removes the slight risk associated with changing devices.
@mkclimbing 4 ай бұрын
I have been thinking about buying Taz LOV just for that reason. It's sometimes frustrating if you're projecting one section of the route and you need to change the device to lower yourself. However, I'd reconsider using Shunt as a backup device as it's said not to be suitable for self belaying by Petzl.
@isakhammer6558 3 ай бұрын
This is the optimal setup! I think you can climb quite hard with it as well. However, it is a bit costly.
@rolfnilsen6385 4 ай бұрын
Vi havnet på villspor i tåka der for mange mange år siden (1996?). Når du står på tredje båndet og ser noen meter til venstre for innsteget på ruta så går det et rakt riss opp i et "mini" dieder. Fantastisk klatring men temmelig vedvarende første taulengde slik jeg husker det. Når du klatrer, hvis du kunne hevet hodet og sett oppover så langt som mulig av og till ville vært gull. Da får vi se mer av hvor du skal og hvordan formasjonen ser ut. Selvsagt en avveining av egen klatreopplevelse og hvor høyt en skal prioritere filmingen :-)
@mkclimbing 4 ай бұрын
Thank you for your comment! I could try to look more up while climbing. It's just easy to forget because the camera is tilted quite down, so I have to really tilt my neck back to get the whole route in the picture.
@rolfnilsen6385 4 ай бұрын
@@mkclimbing It would add some good scenes and probably be popular with the viewers as it shows more of the experience it is to climb a real face :-)
@mkclimbing 4 ай бұрын
That's true!
@EnjoyJapan1 4 ай бұрын
💕Wow💛💜💜💜💛💜💜💜💜
@richardsmith9918 5 ай бұрын
What features in the rock beautiful
@mkclimbing 5 ай бұрын
You're absolutely right about that!
@whatscreenname 5 ай бұрын
8:35 How tall are you? I need to know if I will be able to reach that clip. 😊
@mkclimbing 5 ай бұрын
I'm 171cm (5'8").
@Ahmapek 5 ай бұрын
Did you do the jump?
@mkclimbing 5 ай бұрын
No I didn't. They say that the gap used to be tighter between the "horns", and nowadays the jump is not recommended.
@Ahmapek 5 ай бұрын
@@mkclimbing Did you cross the gap by some other means or did you rappel directly from the big horn? I was there in the early 2000s and the gap indeed was narrower then. The jump was still a bit exciting because of the incline of the big horn and I was also worried that I may overshoot the jump and fell of of the little horn, but it was then quite easy actually. My friend led the last pitch and was belaying on the little horn. Thanks for making the videos! I have already watched several of them and have enjoyed them a lot.
@mkclimbing 5 ай бұрын
We rappelled straight from the big horn, so no need to do the jump. I'm happy to hear that you enjoy watching my videos. That really means a lot to me.
@tomemick 6 ай бұрын
Cool! Do you use offset cams often - 5:05? I bought a couple of offset cams for testing the other day, (🤓) but I have not climbed on them yet. I feel they could come in handy in Norwegian cracks, but curious if I should carry them on every climb.
@mkclimbing 6 ай бұрын
Not that often. Actually I don't have any, that offset was my friend's. I'm thinking about buying some. They sure come in handy in many situations and climbs. I would carry those on a multi-pitch especially if I knew the route is not easily protected.
@tomemick 6 ай бұрын
Thank you for making these videos! I really appreciate following your different climbs while waiting for the outdoor climbing season - pitch for pitch. The videos seem pretty much "uncut" - making it possible to really follow along. Normally everybody keeps over-editing climbing videos - which I find annoying😆 I especially like how you include everything in the videos - including the process of how you choose and place gear, and setting up belay stations - sometimes changing your mind, and going for another placement or piece👋 ..and all this without any annoying "cool" music in the background🥳 Pure climbing noises, together with what I guess is the occasional Finnish swearword or comment-to-self while climbing😃 Cudos from Norway to my favorite climbing channel💪
@mkclimbing 6 ай бұрын
Thanks @tomemick, you're welcome! I really appreciate your comment! My idea is to try to share the climbing experience as a whole including all the struggles and anchor buildings, and that means editing them as little as possible. I'll try to filter out the worst coursing and 10 minutes of the same pro placings though 😂. Nice to hear that there are people that like it that way too. The sound of the tinkling gear is the best music.
@tomemick 6 ай бұрын
Nice!! @@mkclimbing
@tomemick 7 ай бұрын
Nice videos!!
@mkclimbing 7 ай бұрын
Thanks!
@tomemick 7 ай бұрын
💪💪💪
@Amangions 7 ай бұрын
Great climbing! Thanks for sharing your expirience with us!
@mkclimbing 7 ай бұрын
Thank you for your comment! I'm glad to share my climbing adventures with you!
@mosesibnmoses387 7 ай бұрын
Really enjoy watching you lead climb! Are there pitches past this point? Also, I noticed your anchor is just one sling, it is technically not redundant, correct? It looks safe, but still
@mkclimbing 7 ай бұрын
Thank you for your comment. There's one pitch left. Well you're correct. That anchor ain't redundant, in the sense that there's only one sling, but it's still an acceptable way to make an anchor. You just want to be sure that the rock that you put the sling over does not have any sharp edges.
@joybrusselers8135 7 ай бұрын
Cool climb
@maxhuguet6735 7 ай бұрын
What size can did you use?
@mkclimbing 7 ай бұрын
If you mean cam, I used 0.4 dm dragonfly which is like a bit smaller than bd cam. Also placed one .75 z, but only because I didn't see the bolt right next to it.
@LeifMahoney 8 ай бұрын
Not sure if you're looking for pointers, but you can keep that bartack on the anchor sling out of the way by cloving the sling to the top carabiner. Also, you could use the two carabiners from the alpine draw on both of the top two nuts, saving yourself the quickdraw you used in the anchor.
@mkclimbing 8 ай бұрын
Good points! I'd definitely do that if I had only one quickdraw left or I know that the next pitch is super long.
@DougJF77 8 ай бұрын
Nice! Good to see your anchor building process in this one too. Keep sending!
@mkclimbing 8 ай бұрын
Thank you! I appreciate your comment.
@adebh 8 ай бұрын
Great video, and it looks like an amazing route. One question though. The 4th gear placement, 4 minutes in. It's a cam with green carabiner. It didn't look like a good placement. Is that just the weird perspective of the GoPro or is there something else about the placement I'm missing? I'm not criticising, I love watching your videos because I get to learn from someone more experienced. Saw it and felt I was missing something.
@mkclimbing 8 ай бұрын
Thank you for your comment! Sometimes it looks like some placement is not good on the video, even tought it is, but this is not the case. You're right, that's not a good placement, but I think it wasn't terrible either, becuse othervise I probably wouldn't have left it like that. I guess I was getting a bit pumped already so I decided to leave it and keep going.
@daspkd9 8 ай бұрын
all the best bro what you are doing is your wórk good jób mañ grow
@thecathouse 8 ай бұрын
the same happened to me in 2022, I was expecting a 5b but I kept falling. thank god I didn't lead that pitch. afterward somebody told me that the original pitch (5b) is more on the left. what do you think about the grade? I think 6b
@mkclimbing 8 ай бұрын
If I remember correctly, we climbed the most left line there. There was at least one parallel line on the right side. I'd say it's 6b. On 27 Crags it's graded 6b+.
@stefanobergamaschi1322 9 ай бұрын
Nice pitch, the rock looks amazing
@DougJF77 9 ай бұрын
That crux looked insane! Awesome climb :)
@getoutandabout1 10 ай бұрын
👍
@FelixBouleau-rz2lh 10 ай бұрын
10:17 "I'm blind" 😂
@mkclimbing 10 ай бұрын
It was right there but I didn't see it 😄
@krasimirshterev6620 11 ай бұрын
I have seen better holding cams.....
@simonpeters4525 11 ай бұрын
Had my hands dripping sweat here
@mkclimbing 11 ай бұрын
Yeah man I definitely didn't want to fall on that pitch.
@eu_habib 11 ай бұрын
Bro, Almost all your placements are overcamed. You chose too big.
@mkclimbing 11 ай бұрын
I prefer a bit overcammed over undercammed. One size smaller would have propably been too undercammed by my standards. But yeah I get what you mean. The size of this crack just felt to be so in between two sizes.
@Gnilesington 6 ай бұрын
Overcammed? Are you for real?
@toremeirik5111 11 ай бұрын
Great vid from a great pitch! That's got to be one of the best 5a´s in the world?
@mkclimbing 11 ай бұрын
Thank you! Yeah that pitch is so sick! Must be one of the best in its grade.
@DougJF77 11 ай бұрын
This looked like an awesome pitch! I've been watching all your Lofoten videos, I think I might have to sort a trip there soon :)
@mkclimbing 11 ай бұрын
Thank you so much! I can highly recommend that! There is so much to climb and awesome routes.
@luclacey Жыл бұрын
I’m pretty new to trad. At 4:00, is that placement considered good enough? My understanding is it’s quite over cammed. Was it a case of ‘that’s all I had that would fit’, or is over camming acceptable to take a fall? Thanks
@mkclimbing Жыл бұрын
Hi good question. I personally prefer over camming over under camming. I think .75 would have been too under camming for that place. I also try not to use all the same size cams if possible, like here the previous pro was a .75 cam. (I had a double rack)
@toremeirik5111 Жыл бұрын
Great vid! I noticed you went up the whole corner instead of turning right a few meters above the old, grey sling. What do you think the grade is when climbing the corner all the way up?
@mkclimbing Жыл бұрын
Thanks! Yeah I think I should have escaped from the groove earlier. It definitely felt harder the way I did it, maybe like 6a or something.
@DougJF77 Жыл бұрын
That was pretty run out at 16 minutes! Awesome video, loving this series!
@mkclimbing Жыл бұрын
Yeah that traverse was so scary! Thank you so much!
@mitchellbaker4806 Жыл бұрын
Maybe don't post on social media until you have the system dialed in, lest someone inexperienced gets the wrong idea that it's easy. Also, why do none of these videos show redirecting the line with draws or cans, or protecting edges with rope pro. This is where people will go wrong trying to imitate what they see on KZbin.
@mkclimbing Жыл бұрын
Hi. Good that you mentioned... This is not an instructional video as said in the video description. This video is about my first experience of TRS as said in the title of the video.
@andrewhunter6536 Жыл бұрын
7 minutes in and I’m routing for that number 4 walnut. So far it’s almost been placed 3 times but a 3 and a 5 won. Edit: Ah wait there was a 4 earlier. Just doubles
@mkclimbing Жыл бұрын
Haha yeah I had to check the video again and you're right! You really paid attention. I found those smaller nuts very useful on that route.
@leagoo52 Жыл бұрын
Two things. This wind is disturbing (like on runway). Question: why are you using hand ascender as chest ascending device? You could use something much smaller.
@mkclimbing Жыл бұрын
Hi. Good question. I like the ascender as a primary belaying device because you don't have to use any extension like a dogbone or sling to connect it to the belay loop.
@kirkbrode Жыл бұрын
I previously used a left-handed ascender too, and I liked it for the same reason as you do. You don't need an extension from your harness (because the handle serves that purpose) and it works great with a chest harness because of the top hole for a carabiner. It worked perfectly when using a single rope and two devices. But sometimes when using two ropes, the other rope would get jammed/caught in the cam on the open side of the ascender. Usually it wasn't a big deal because it didn't get stuck hard and I could just pull it out instantly. But it tended to happen in overhanging situations when I needed to climb quickly and it was annoying to make the extra move to free the rope. I had already decided I was going to switch it out for a Micro Traxion but made the commitment after the rope got caught when I needed to make a deadpoint and then a couple of hard moves and I couldn't get a hand free to fix it. Now I use a CT Rollnlock and a Micro Traxion. I might switch to two Micro Traxions. PS: I didn't find the sound of the wind to be bothersome at all.
@mkclimbing Жыл бұрын
That sounds interesting. I have never had that problem. Maybe it's because my ascender is right handed. 🤔 Or maybe I just have not done that much TRS on overhang. PS. Actually that's not wind. The sound comes from a highway. But anyway I'm happy that it didn't bother you. 😄
@DougJF77 Жыл бұрын
Awesome video man. Love the content - looks like a great climb.
@mkclimbing Жыл бұрын
Thanks man! I appreciate it.
@Opplevelseskanalen Жыл бұрын
Beautiful 😊