Is it?

Yes

Wow

Thank you for this info. I have a couple very thin cracks in my basement floor that water leaks up through sometimes. The polyurethane sealant would work for this?

@@peterwilson8696 That sounds like a much bigger problem, honestly. Do all of your gutters move water away from your foundation? If not, do that first. I spent some time and not too much money moving water away from my foundation and it made a huge difference in humidity and water infiltration. Anything, something like LOCTITE PL Concrete Non-Sag or Sika Fast Setting 10.1-fl oz Sealant might work for you. The trick, however, is getting sealant into the crack. If the cracks are hairline you should grind them out, which is a really messy proposition. If you just want to try it, buy a high quality caulk gun and only cut a small tip off the tube nozzle. When squeezing the caulk gun you want to press hard down onto the crack to fill it as much as possible. Then take a putty knife and skim off the top to make it flat.

So much great info, thanks!

@@TheDirtCreature thank you for the information! I will try that with the sealant. I do have one downspout that is not draining away from the house, and it is pooling up on one side. Sometimes it's bad, but it's on one end of the house, and the crack is centered in the middle of my basement.

@TheDirtCreature - Can you also suggest - What should I use ? A polyurethane - self leveling or no sag, for the edge where concrete wall meets the concrete floor, which has developed a gap/crack( hairline, less than 1/8th of an inch). I suspect it's letting the centepdes in, the unfinished area of my basement. Any specific brand product you would recommend?

Drylook DOES NOT work...tried this week !

The cove joint yes you're suppose to leave that gap alone but some seal it

Homeowner here. My current device - which is not this Fantech variable EC - pulls 156 watts, so at 23 cents a kWh (high rate where I am) that's $315 a year. I don't know how many watts this fan could save, but lets say it's 33% (best case scenario, likely) it could save me $104 a year and $1250 over ten years. Def not the $2000 as mentioned in the video but not nothing. IMO, the bigger reason for this fan, is the ability to dial the fan in for your specific house radon need. Every house, radon system, static pressure, etc. is different, so to me, that's huge. A variable fan speed is the only way to fine tune a system for your specific circumstance. This fan will let you get the best possible radon reduction from your system, which to me, is the end goal. While I don't yet have this product, I have an older Fantech fan single speed which is running perfectly after nine years.

Wow

Wow

Wow

Wow

Laying down tarps?

why ?

did you figure that out?

With hydraulic cement

Did you ever figure this out? Ours is at 2.8.I have read .5 to 1.75 and don’t know if higher is worse. They put in a high powered fan and I wonder if it is too much. It’s very loud.

I have similar issue re large cutout around pipe. I laid a 1/4" thick sheet of rubber with pipe-size hole on top of pit lid (which is flat, smooth plastic) and then caulked around the pipe and around the edges of the rubber sheet (as well as around the pit lid/floor joint of course). I hope that it's doing some good and that such an idea might be of help to you.

you guys need to vent the pit... it's not a vaccum pump, air-behind-water - Add an air one-way check-valve to allow air in but not out.... problem solved

Thanks . Let me try if it is available in India and if so it's brand name . Hope once cured it will remain strong and after sometime remove it by cutting it with blade as shown in the video . Seal strongly and unseal as seen in the video is the reason why I got attracted .

Wouldn't venting defeat the entire purpose of the silly radon mitigation?

Usually a mitigation system has a pvc pipe in the pit, which has a fan to suck the air outside.. along with the sealed cover.

@@supobostarman not at all, it makes the silly nonsense look even more impressive

Probably not because there’s the drainage tubes that feed the sump.

You are exactly right, correct installation would include a second pipe going to the vent stack for the home...

@@EMTdrummer wrong!

If it’s a regular sump pit , your wrong ! But a grey water pit or one with radon mitigation then yes you need a vent

The air tight seal is necessary for radon mitigation. If you just have a sump pump, you can leave it open, or place a suitable cover above the pit without sealing. In my area, older homes usually have it open, and new homes often have a wooden panel with hinges over it.

I just bought one from amazon for mine ... Lowes or Home Depot has a variety as well, but I wanted a solid one since my pit is empty.

Make sure you get 100% silicon

Looks like dry lok caulk

You would think some kind split lid with a hinge and a air tight gasket could be made that would allow one to access the pit without having to go through all of that every time the pump needed to be checked on.

Home depot, lowes, amazon.