You betcha

Check the installation instructions.

We cut the brace to have a minimum width of 3-1/2" after the curve is cut.

Thank you!

Around us, pressure treated southern pine is the most economical option. The rafters are 2x6 for this pergola.

Thank you!

I did not. There's so little bearing stress on the post that it shouldn't matter.

Glad they were helpful!

I don't know that that's a question we can answer. Please watch the videos and see if what's done there is something you think is within your capabilities. A pergola is a great skill building project!

You can always use a jigsaw with a long blade

You're welcome!

Moving it in provides more concrete to resist the post load.

I usually use 3ft or 4ft. Height of the post divided by 3 is a good rule of thumb.

Moccasins. Only the finest of footwear!

The bolts don't take any weight, that's taken by bearing on the post base. Appendix AH of the International Residential Code allows a certain amount of down load on 3.5" slabs. There's not much shear on the bolts.

The braces were omitted as a design choice, though it's best practice to brace in all directions.

thanks for writing back!@@ApexPergola

They are 8ft, and there's just under 7'-6" clearance under the bottom beams. However, the plans I now sell use 10ft posts for that particular reason.

See this video for instructions: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aZLbnZqLp69_hrc

Nice 👍

She sure is!

Put me in coach.

Thanks!

Indeed!

Wedge anchor will probably be ok. I like the Simpson Strong-Tie TITEN HD anchors too since they're a bit more foolproof.

@@ApexPergola Looking at something similar -- installing 8x8 brackets in an existing slab, 16" on center from the edge of the slab. Slabs only about 4" thick AFAIK. Between the height of the hex head, and the bracket/washer thickness, I imagine I should still use a ~5" anchor embedded pretty much the full depth of the slab? Simpson seems to lean toward their Titen anchors even though they make wedge anchors as well -- any suggestion there? Wedge anchors seem to have a slightly lower member thickness requirement for similar embedments

Usually not a good idea to have the anchor sticking below the slab. The TITEN s are easier to install than wedge anchors.

@@ApexPergola I would definitely use stainless anchors if I did that, to avoid any corrosion concerns. I guess when I say full depth, I’d leave a 1/2” or so of concrete at the bottom

That will depend on your anchor, but this one was a little more than 4".

If I am using 4x4x10. 4ins 3/8 anchor efficient enough?

I can't answer that with the information given.

I used the Simpson TITEN HD.

@@ApexPergola I thought those were for indoor dry locations only. Can only be used in temporary outdoor applications

They're code listed for exterior applications according to Simpson's website.

@@ApexPergola google search took me to the zinc plated ones not the galvanized ones

That's too bad

It's just to illustrate how casually easy this build is :)

Steel toecap slippers 😂

I might suggest using 2x4 braces with a couple sand bags stacked at the end to keep them from moving. You could also attach a little 2x4 "foot" at the bottom of the brace to make it easier to stack the sand bags.

What kind of wood you use for build a pergola ?

Keep watching and find out!

The Simpson Strong-Tie bases I used require specific screws to achieve the rated capacity. Check the manufacturer catalog for the ones you're using for requirements.

The post you use is 6x6 ?

@@ApexPergola Hi Can you tell me the name or product code for the Simpson Strong-Tie base you've used ? Many thanks

APB66

4ft

Thanks Doug!

www.apexpergola.com/how-to/piers-post-bases

Good thing he didn't make you have to count to 6! :)

2x4

So 2x8’s, 2x6’s, and 2x4’s?

If the slope is fairly low, they can be used as is with no change in approach. If a greater slope, you might have to either shim the bottom of the base plate (use stainless/galvanized washers or grout) or install on the slope and bevel the bottom of the post accordingly.

This is what I was looking for, thanks!

It's better to put them on piers, and that's the way we normally recommend to install them. There are ways to "properly" install on a patio slab, but it can be tricky.

I'm in Ontario as well and was about to make this type of open structure, what did you do instead? I feel like most people just attach regular gazebo's to their patio which would create more drag than 4 posts. My neighbour has a shallower patio and just put a costco 10x12 gazebo on theirs.

Glad it was helpful!

I’m sorry but how do you pitch so that the water drains away from the house if you decide to put a roof over it?

Glad the videos have been helpful!

Most of our plans use 16" spacing.

@@ApexPergola thank you.

Hi how deep are your notch? How you determine deep? Thanks

Any tips on how to notch the rafters if your pergola beams are sloped for water/snow drainage?

Glad it was helpful!

Hi Ioan, you will be sent a link after purchasing the templates from our website (www.apexpergola.com/rafter-templates )

5/8" Simpson Strong Tie TITEN HD

​@Apex Pergola how long was it?

Both have their advantages. I would agree that OZCO has the edge when it comes to looks and options. But SST's engineering support is better.

@@ApexPergola Thanks for your reply. You can't get enough engineering help from OZCO ?

I don't know that I'd say that. More that the SST catalogs are very robust in comparison. Plus, they've been around a lot longer, so inspectors are more familiar (if that's something that's important in your area).

This one is about 4"

Would this post holder work on 2 inch thick concrete slab

That seems a bit thin. You should have a footing under posts because all the weight of your structure is concentrated over the spot where the post is placed.@@JB-lr1tf

Haha, yep 👍