Thank you! Yeah I had a bit of a break as my life fell apart (again) 😬

Heya iceman, yes ofc I remember :-) I hope the build has been going ok other than the rats. I've also been having to deal with large rats as it happens 😬, #offgridlife. I think we spoke just before i had to sell up etc and it's been a bit of a survival mission since :-/ gradually getting back on my feet now tho and got some *very* cool stuff in the pipeline, more on that soon 😎. I actually got gen2 wheels reading speed on a gen1 speedo and it's not that difficult. Drop me a mail and I'll explain how to do it. I think I filmed it actually so may do a video of I get time 👍 Re 12k standard, the tacho LIES. Gen 1 rpm limit is 10.1k unless it's been modified. See this page for screenshot from the ECU itself: northcust.co.uk/2022/06/yzf-r125-180cc-kit-top-speed/

I will be doing so, but hadn't had opportunity to test at the time of filming. I'm also not posting videos of me doing 90+ on public roads because I don't want more points. Will hopefully be doing top speed testing at Dakota raceway at end of sept, and Santa pod in oct, and hopefully we can crack 100mph. I've ridden it briefly since tho and it's sweeeeet but haven't been able to test top speed yet. It turns out I may actually be able to push this engine up to 11.5k as she still wasn't out of the power band at 11 😂

Probably not, firstly because it's quite an involved and tedious procedure and involves buying various bits of software and hardware, some of which (I believe) are not readily available anymore, as well as making custom wiring. However the good news is there will soon be *much* easier ways of achieving the same result which I'm working on making readily/widely available (more on that soon!). Also, some of these processes are things other people figured out and are not really mine to share, and in some cases have been specifically asked not to. Also bear in mind, I have heavily modified this engine (rebalanced crank/piston/con-rod assembly, forged rod etc and doing what I'm doing to a standard engine will likely end quite quickly with melted pistons.

maybe I've misinderstood what you mean but that doesn't really make any sense to me, sorry. One panel, multiple controllers, one battery? I don't see what you'd hope to achieve by that setup. The amperes from the panel will not magically be more just by adding more controllers.

@@NorthCust attach one soler panel with two pwm

need to do my timing chain and such just trying to go in with the best plan possible

the bike is a 2008 (generation 1)

yeah , probably. maybe on the next one

it does not fit, sorry. Any adjustment you make to the fuelling will be compensated for by the O2 sensor and ecu. Rapidbikes evo do an ecu which can allegedly work on second-gen up to 2016 (and sends a fake signal to the o2 to stop the ecu adjusting) but not the later version. Also the only person I know who tried to fit one of those couldn't get it working, but that may not have been the machine's fault.

they can run just fine with the stock 100cc/min injector, and for low-mid rpm riding it's actually smoother and a little more responsive, but I think once you get above ~8k the injector just can't flow enough fuel to satisfy the 180, resulting in disappointing top-end. It took a stage2 cam and the big injector to get mine to perform more as I'd hoped at high rpm.

No go with a 13 front instead but u will hit rev limiter in 6 gear with a top speed of 125kmh

the bike may not be able to push the 15t which ends up being less fun, unless you spend a lot of time doing top-speed runs down long hills :-)

sorry, where did you get $500 from for a new motor?

I don't think you'll have that issue. If I'm understanding u correctly..Will Prowse did a video on just that some years ago, proving that the controllers won't fight each other. Might be worth a peek.

hi, thanks! Hopefully it was useful. I actually just recently happened to get to test using two MPPT controllers on the same array to feed two separate banks and that did NOT work as anticipated. With my 4 panels in series I'd usually make ~85v on each mppt individually but when connected together the input voltage reading for both controllers dropped to 17v, and also only showed the current input I'd expect on one panel (~7a), not (e.g. 4 in parallel - ~28a). I didn't test it for very long beyond that but that was with two almost identical controllers (Renogy Rover 20 and rover 30). I can't say conclusively there's not a way of making it work but in my brief test, with my setup, it did not seem to work. Sadly I don't really understand enough about electronics to really speculate what might be happening.

please see above..

Sicne making this video I ended up moving off grid and also ended up with two almost identical MPPT controllers, and with several 170w panels in series splitting the signal across two MPPTS controllers seemed to very much NOT work. In fact MPPT causes all sorts of funky things to happen unless you do exactly as you're meant to.

Safety second! xD

46nm. See page 2-19 of the service manual for all the torque specs :-)

when you say "loses power" do you mean it doesn't fire/engine-stops, or more like it hesitates momentarily? where did you get your map for the fc? if there's stuff happening when you drop off the power that's normally the area under the diagonal (top left to bottom right) in the map, so that's probably where I'd be looking for answers. The decompression lever (if fitted correctly and functional) is activated by the cam spinning and it doesn't have to spin very fast to activate so it seems unlikely that it would be the problem, unless it's not fitted properly somehow, but I would have thought that would make an awful noise and be quite obvious that something is wrong.

it did on mine but there wasn't the power to drive it really (on my bike anyway) so ended up slower than 15t

The autotune module is one of my favourite upgrade just because of it's all round usefulness and how easy it makes tuning the bike after I've changed stuff. That being said I don't think you can fit a PCV to the gen2 bikes (i.e. 2019 and onwards) because it's a closed loop system i.e. there's an o2 sensor that will "correct" any fuel adjustment you make. The gen2 bikes also have an o2 sensor but apparently there's some boxes which can tune it (rapidbike evo) and which also have an autotune module but I'm not aware of any such system for 2019 onwards. Powertronicecu.com *list* a tuning box but there's no autotune feature so meh ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

there's a couple of places you can adjust the clutch play to get it right - there's a little bolt/pushrod in the end of the clutch casing (with a little locking nut) which lets you adjust where the clutch lever sits relative to the cable, and you can also adjust where the cable is positioned in relation to the engine casing, and hence how much of the cable is used (or the clutch position relative to the cable), and also you can adjust free play on the lever. See page 5-45 in the service manual for how to adjust the pushrod, the cable and lever ought to be self explanatory. Good luck and patience :-)

Performed it today- very easy process if you take your time. Thanks again for the great guide!

might need a little more detail... does the engine go round but the clutch won't engage? the only thing to really adjust in there is the little pushrod in the end of the clutch. If the clutch won't disengage then perhaps that needs adjusting. email [email protected] but it might take me a while to respond atm.

​@@NorthCustmine wont move either, the motor just turns around even tho the plates are moving and done the adjustment that the manual says you need to do on the short push rod, but bike wont free up to let me move it just turns the motor around

hi :-) 1) neither of those charge controllers are MPPTs, 2) I think bear in mind that both chargers may not always be in "charge" mode, s o the PV array shouldn't exceed the amps and volts of *1* charge controller (not both) since most of the time it's only one controller active. 3) I have no idea what you mean re internal resistance, sorry. NC

update: since making this video I've moved off grid and now have MPPT controllers - and splitting the signal from one panel/array across multiple MPPT controllers and panels in series seems very much NOT to work, whereas with PWM controllers and panels in parallel it worked fine. I don't fully understand why it didn't work with MPPTs but it most certainly did not.

hi, thanks :-) maybe drop me an email at [email protected] - though idk if you can really do it on the gen3. It might be possible but it's a whole different system.

there is no clutch fluid.. it's a "wet clutch" so gets oil from the sump etc along with the other gearbox bits

should have tried that tho tbh it's so small idk if it would have made much difference...(i.e. it's difficult to maintain the cold temp). Pipe frrzing spray might have worked though, might have to try that next time.

@@NorthCust I have used the freezer method with head bearing races. they just drop in. Even handling them after been in the freezer kina burns your fingers. Freeze spray would work a treat though.

key thing seems to be to put the nut back on before you use the puller. I think the other tool I used had a pointed end but that also deformed the end of the crank and splayed it out ('mushroomed' it)...Having the nut on may not have prevented that but at least the nut would be on so I wouldn't have had to grind the end of the crank down an re-file the threads to get the nut back on.

good point.. must have missed filming that bit.. I spent a while fiddling with that too. maybe time for an updated video.. hmm. That was the first time I'd done it and I've done lots of them by now.

Hey@@NorthCust could you explain how it works? How are the measurements. Good Video BTW ;D

erm I think it was just in 1st or second. They're not torqued super tight so doesn't reallymatter which iirc

i have the power commander and have adjusted it but i have a auto tune not installed yet but i dont really know how to install it

what cc cyclinder/engine?

autotune is pretty simple to wire in, what's tricky is welding the exhaust bung since if your exhaust is stainless then it needs very carefully TIG welding. The exhausts are usually very thin metal (lightweight) too which makes it extra tricky to weld.

@@NorthCust Yeah. I have tried alot of things now i can Get it up to 10500 rpm but the map i have is all -20, -40 etc. i have the top performance 180kit im currently using the 160cc/min injector. It runs great but overheats very Quickly. The fan comes on after 5 to 10 minutes of riding.

I ran two controllers for quite a while in the van in the end becaus eI too had mistmatched banks - my main bank was 2x75ah deep cycle lead acid and the other bank was 1 60ah and one 75ah car starter battery. It did seem a bit weird at times re how it decided who got the power but it did actually seem to work. It seemed to work ok without the diodes but I also kinda didn't really trust it without so ended up leaving them on. With a lead acid and lifepo setup like yours I would have thought this sort of arrangement but with diodes on the solar input of each controller ought to work just fine. Good luck! :)

Alibear , ive got the same situation , how did you get on as im going to try the same thing soon .

2008

I suspect you might be better off taking power from controller or the batteries, surely that's gotta be neater, involves less controllers and also don't underestimate how much power you lose due to attentuation. 2x solar cables means 2x attenuation. 2 controllers worked but it was a bit confusing and i don't feel like it was really ideal. Instead how about you just run the solar to the storage building as you have and then run a 12v line from there to the coop and install a pair of 12v usb sockets like these (or similar) : www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304118526870 I suggest these because I found that even in my small van I was getting quite noticable attenuation (voltage/power drop due to long wires). I knew that it was worse at low voltages but wasn't aware just HOW extreme it is. To that end, using the 12v usb sockets has a secondary benefit - namely that the sockets will accept a range onf input voltages so if you get some attenuation on the lead from the controller/batteries to the usb sockets, it doesn't matter bc the sockets steps 12-24v down to 5v anyway so the effect of attenuation ought to be effectively eliminated in the stepdown process. Hope that helps :)