kinda surprised you only have 32gb of ram, i have 64 and pixinsight uses all of it. But great video either way!

This is an amazing guide. Thank you so much Peter!

Hi, I'm also a pixinsight user, but I have one question to you. I actually took the timlapse of the milky way and when I try to stack, it keeps saying SPCC failed (Visible Dark) and when I try to fix it, it doesn't work. Is there something wrong with my photos? I actually cannot understand why SPCC failing. 😢

Wow!

Some of these arts were ahead of its time. I wonder what our distant cousins were smokin on.

Thanks for taking the time for this video Peter. After setting up your 1st panel in the ASI Air, click on the + icon next to the reset icon in the upper left of the window to copy your settings to remaining panels.

Mr. Peter, you have great videos and thank you for your insight and time. But this message concerns Nikon AIS 200mm/f1.4 lens. I plan to use this lease for astrophotography. Will I need to get a lens clamp for this lens? If so, what do you recommend? Thank you and have a nice day.

Some people have 4 rasa setups. That will be crazy amount of light gathering capacity

Hi! That is really awesome! I am trying the same settings on my asiair mini and nikon d3300 in bulb mode but I am limited on 30s subs, do you know how could I take 120s subs? I am clearly missig something

So much easier in Astropixel processor

Ive learned a lot in astrophoto, thanks to your Videos. This is another great one and thanks.👍🏾 For panel in ASIair, I second @Oamaruastro. We can click on the "+" icon in the shooting dialog within the shooting dialog. Should be able to copy the settings. Or when you see all the sequence in Plan mode (stars at 8m40sec in the video) enter the shooting settings (e.g. numer of exposure, repeat, gain, etc.) only in the 1st detail. DO NOT repeat the shooting settings in the other Panels. Once done with the 1st detail (1st shooting sequence) go back where you have all your Panels (1-1, 1-2, 1-3, ... 2-2, etc.) (Asiair Planning Menu seen at 8m25sec of your video). In the upper left corner, you have the back/exit icon to get out of the Planning Menu window. When you click on it (after completing just your 1st shooting sequence), ASIair should bring a dialogue box. The box will ask if you want to copy the settings to the rest of the sequence/panels. Click "yes/ok". Hope I was clear and Thanks Peter for contribution in astrophoto.👍🏾😊

Nice video, thank you very much! Two things though-when setting up your shooting plan, I believe you can tap on the little “+” icon thing on the top right hand corner of the shooting dialogue in the ASIAIR to copy the plan to the future panels, so you don’t have to do it multiple times. Also, when processing the panels in Pixinsight, why not place all the files into separate sub-folders within the main folder with a name like “Panel 1-1”, “Panel 1-2” etc, and then in WBPP use “Panel” as the keyword and have Pixinsight process the data by keyword so you don’t have to go through the labourious process multiple times?

What are your thoughts about processing each image in PI thru BXT, save each as a tiff, and use PT gui for the mosaic stitch, back to PI for BXT and SXT, then finish up in PS?

Wow! 👍

Thanks for the video Peter, I was thinking about doing this with my ASIAir soon so this will be very helpful

Great and helpful video... I have a question ...I am using star adventurer 2i and wondering if you know about guiding with the 2i and mini. The star adventurer manual says guiding only works in the console app in astrophotography mode. This means I have to have both the SA app and asiair app running . is this correct or do I just use the asiair connected to the guide port and regular sidereal tracking. I hope this makes sense

Thanks so much for the tutorial Peter! I was also about to tackle this target soon and the dimness of the Squid itself makes it so much more difficult. This tutorial gave me a bunch of ideas to try out on my own processing of it soon!

I believe they made these after spiritual vision quests in the desert and they are of the gods and deities they met while tripping on peyote.

use a clipping mask....saves coping up the mask each time...great video Peter

I’m still watching the video, so sorry if it’s noted already, but is there a stacked image of Shampns data so we can follow along?

I have several Scripts (CreateHDRImage, Graxpert, CreateHubblePalette, perhaps others) that give me the ERROR: Signature verification failed for "the particular tool": Invalid code signature.... Any idea what's wrong?

The pulsing of floods is a near certainty with debris flows- no ice is necessary for the theory. Have a look: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ipfcc3SCmLB-qJY The same has been observed in France, Colorado, the Himalayas, Pakistan, Venezuela, many other places.

To give you an idea how ridiculous these people can be even when the flooding they illustrate is true (I submit the entire continent and beyond was flooded) at the 3:41 mark onward they show a carefully crafted video which they painstakingly made showing the floodwaters about to go OVER the cliffs and plunge pools of the waterfalls....that the floodwaters made.... which somehow pre-exist the flood....that's about to flow over the torn bedrock....that got torn by the flood....before the flood got there....which it followed when it arrived..... RIDICULOUS!! It then shows this ridiculous scenario from different angles. Any eighth grader would laugh at it. When they should have shown the flowing waterfall DRYING UP and LEAVING BEHIND the horseshoe cliffs and plunge pools which it created AFTER it happened! . But as we all know, PHD stands for piled higher and deeper.

how cool!

@PeterZelinka just wondering if you still have the TIFF file? link doesnt seem to be working and id love to follow along!

Sorry to be late , but does that map so the shore line out to 1000 feet? cause then you could see how all the water drained into the Oceans and effected it's fetchers

Thanks for tutorial. I have been avoiding WBPP but I might start using it some more.

Hi Peter! We have had pretty good experience from a Bortle 4 with the L-Quad vs No filter. My question for you is this: What filter do you set for the L-Quad in Pixinsight SPCC? I only recently got the software and would very much like to get your feedback!

Not getting the Tools option. The updates link has a 404 error

Great video! Quick question. I hear a lot about how important it is to keep the sensor as cool as possible. Is there a video that explains what temperature is best, and how to determine the best sensor temperature?

Thanks

Outstanding job, thanks so much for sharing this!

Top left in dss you can brighten the image and “stretch” it to see each frame a little bit late but just in case

This is exactly what someone like m, who is just about to dive into this hobby, needed. Thanks

Excellent upload

This doesn’t seem as hard as I once believed. Thanks. Now I need to blow more money. You’re going to have the wife side eye me.

I have both I agree with you asiair mini is just enough and cheaper

FYI, the Yellowstone caldera is a leftover of a very large eruption thousands of years ago. Underneath is a "hot spot" of magma that is stationary, while the North American plate moves over it to the west. In past ages, the remnants of eruptions and calderas from the hot spot are found farther west in ID and OR. No meteor strikes.

Sup Buttlickers ?? 😅

No no no, not Randall Carlson. If you really want to know about the floods look up Nick Zentner

Hello Peter. I'm a professional astronomer. I find some interesting concepts in your video, but unfortunately, you mix and confuse light collection with f-ratios. F-ratio tells light density in the focal plane not how much light is collected. Light collection from an object in the scene is proportional to aperture area times exposure time. It has nothing to do with focal length or f-ratio. F-ratio is not in the equation. For example, which collects more light from M51, a 50 mm focal length f/2.8 lens or a 200 mm focal length f/4 lens? A 50 mm f/2.8 lens has an aperture diameter of 50/2.8 = 17.86 mm. Area = 250.5 square mm. A 200 mm f/4 lens has an aperture diameter of 200/4 = 50 mm. Area = 1963.5 square mm The 200 mm f/4 lens collects 1963.5 / 250.5 = 7.8 times more light in the same exposure time for any object in the scene, whether a galaxy, a nebula, a star, a bird in a tree, or a persons face. Bin the 200 mm pixels 4x4 and the resolution in terms of pixels on the subject would be the same as in the 50 mm image, but the light in those pixels will be 7.8 times brighter in the binned 200 mm image. Try this with your 11-inch telescope. Choose a target like a galaxy that fits on your sensor in the f/10 configuration. Take one image at f/1.9. Take another at f/10 with the same exposure time. Bin the f/10 image by summing 5x5 pixels. You'll find the same amount of light per binned pixel and the same pixels on the object (within 5% because the f/1.9 is not a factor of 5 from f/10). You state in the video (at about 5:50) that change to hyperstar increased light collection by 25x. But the binning demonstration shows that the light is there, just distributed differently. Better to computer signal per square arc-second or arc-minute. By focusing on the subject, it will become clearer what the variables for light collection are. For example, redcat 51 (51 mm aperture) vs Celestron 11-inch (279 mm aperture) ratio = (279 / 51)^2 = 29.9 times more light from any object in the scene, e.g. a star, a galaxy, a square arc-second, a square arc-minute.. It has nothing to do with f-ratio. On the plus side, at the end of your video you talk about buying a larger telescope, but unfortunately you don't explain correctly why. I'll end with a comparison to Hubble, JWST, and other professional telescopes. Hubble and JWST are great deep sky telescopes. Hubble is an f/24 system, and the WFPC3 camera operates at f/31. JWST is f/20.2. I have done most of my professional work at terrestrial observatories with the NASA IRTF on Mauna Kea, Hawaii (f/38) and at the U Hawaii 88-inch (2.24 meter) f/10 telescope. By the flawed f-ratio ideas in this video, a redcat 51 (51 mm aperture diameter) with f/4.9, or your 11-inch hyperstar (f/1.9) would collect more light than these huge telescopes. NOT. Key is to computer the light per object area, like per square arc-minute. Quiz: assuming the same wavelength of light, how much light per pixel do the cameras on JWST, and Hubble collect per pixel compared to your redcat 51 with your camera (f/24 vs f/31 vs f/4.9, respectively), assuming the same sensor quantum efficiency? The LSST, Vera C. Rubin telescope is going to only take a pair of 15-second images per position (in each filter) and is expected to come online in January 2025. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vera_C._Rubin_Observatory It is an f/1.25 system. Do you really think that your 11-inch f/1.9 telescope with 1 hour or 16 hours of exposure time will collect more light from NGC 6888 in your video than the LSST in 30 seconds? Again, the key to light collection is aperture area times exposure time.

Thank you very much!!!

Randall Carlson the Socrates/Plato of our time

4:01 man got Internet Historian flashback of his Fallout 76 review, lmaooo. But yeah, this is good stuff!! Have a SVX130T with a ZWO294 camera with a reducer. And having that reducer makes me feel a lot better lol. Still very new, but excited to learn more

Not compare them to those found in Sahara.

Just buy the 533 and mosaic the hell out of the night sky if you need to. A 2 to 4 panel mosaic is easy as a few clicks in Pixinsight and at 3.76 micron pixels and 9mp x 4 plates minus 10-12% of overlap is a nice, high resolution image if you need it.

Great video as always Peter! Question: I own a Skywatcher EQ6-mount which I run through a laptop. Can you still do a PEC routine (to get a tracking curve) with the ASI AIR+?

The magnetic poles of the Earth flips approximately every 24,000 years which results in a relatively brief and sudden natural Armagedón. The last astral toric loop occurred around 9,600 B.C. during "The Great Flood" that killed almost all life on Earth. That means the next astral toric loop to watch out for will occur around 14,400 A.D. which is about 12,000 years from now.

Hi, I have a question. Do I have to polar aline the tracker to the north star every time I got out to look a different object each night? I'm new to this.

I also believe the St Gulf Lawrence and the extended continental shelf is evidence of this flood emptying into the Atlantic.