I went a couple of years ago- there's so much stuff there! An amazing place.

really enjoyed that FAB

That's a very interesting modification! I built a couple of these Airfix Hurricanes- they do go together very well, don't they?

Nice build, but you should remove the X-shaped plastic between the outer wing struts. It is sprue, not structure.

I’ve got a few photos from ww2 and old lady gave me from her departed husbands album, he was a ww2 North Atlantic submarine hunter in a few different aircraft based in Cornwall, she gave some of captured Luftwaffe air craft in RAF livery , that’d make a change 👍

Another nice build! I've done a few biplane builds using SteamGeezer's rigging method and not had any serious problems. On some aircraft, the rigging goes between the struts rather than between the wings, which means you can leave the top wing off (having made sure that the struts are glued securely in the right places!), which makes things a lot easier. It's not always possible though. Turnbuckles and patience are the secret!

well done you !!!! terrific 😊

Hi Paul, great result for your first attempt at rigging 👏It's fiddly and tedious at times, but it adds so much authenticity to a bi-plane model 👍. You'll find there are a quite a few rigging materials out there : E.Z. Line and Uichi rigging thread are a couple that come to mind. I've also had respectable results rigging with stretched sprue cut into appropriate lengths and straightened lengths of thin wire. Attaching the rigging ( If you are rigging with some kind of Thread ) to the underside of the top wing before mounting the wing can also make the job a little less stressful. All on all a lovely result with that little Gladiator 🤩

Cracking build Paul and very informative. Love the wire turnbuckles, what gauge of fishing line, if that’s what you used for the rigging? In the past it’s been waxed cotton I have used, then three weeks later yards of dust attached itself to the wax, do like the plastic line. "cùm iad a’ tighinn"

David R Lentz, Columbus, Ohio, USA (Thursday, 4 July, 2024) (ERROR CORRECTED) (UPDATED EXTENSIVELY) Hello, Mr. Paul. Round 22.00, you seem to have quite the difficulty affixing a transparency into place on the dorsal fuselage aft of where the dorsal turret will go. My suggestion would be for you to find a modest length (round 2 or 3 cm) of very slender (1 mm x 1 mm would be my estimation; however, one must be there to take the measure, as precision is critical for exact fit) strip stock (e.g., Evergreen, Plastruct) [my suggestion would be for you to find a modest length of very slender strip stock], affixing it along the interior of the opening just 1 mm or so below the very edge of the opening, to create a sort of two-sided shim, or perhaps a framework upon which one can seat the clear part; as with the two earlier pieces, one also must allow precisely for the thickness of the transparency, so that it fits into place flush with its surrounding fuselage. Once securely in place and dried, one must colour them black with a permanent ink marker (one cannot use paint, for it will deny glue) to diminish their presence. At 27:20, you mention painting the fuselage as being easier without the wings affixed into place. I cannot be certain, but at the factory, they paint much as you plan, except for the final camouflage (or if natural metal, a clear coat to forestall metal oxidisation). Round 50:00, you seem to be wrestling with your decidedly troublesome main landing gear. This brings to mind: how would one proceed to build the model in-flight, installing the main landing gear, including the tail wheel, raised and stowed, the crew figurines in their assigned combat stations, the cowl flaps closed, the control surfaces in their positions to commence an easy, thirty-degree right turn and a shallow climb? I have been unable to determine which defensive gun arrangement your model has at its far aft end (the only direct look your video provides us is at 31:47-and then for just a few scant seconds, with the blur of quick movement denying us any clarity of focus); either the earlier so-called “stinger tail” design, or the later Cheyenne tail (named for its manufacturer’s location: Cheyenne, Wyoming, USA), a partial rotating sphere the gunner controlled for a rather better field of fire. Please clarify, if you would. Overall, an enviably capable job of it, mate! Now show us your builds of the Hong Kong Models kits of the Boeing B17G Flying Fortress USAAF Four-Engine Heavy Bomber in 1:32nd-scale, and in 1:48th-scale; these come in the early “stinger tail” and late-war, with the Cheyenne tail. In my project, my ambition (eventually) is to build these (and other models in ascending scales; or descending sizes-I am poor at maths!) airborne, with figurines to represent the crew as they man their combat posts, small electric motors to spin the propellers, LEDs to illuminate the crew’s duty stations, robust internal bracing to accept the external suspension arrangement and electrical circuitry, etc. Additionally, models in 1:64th-scale (two of the Lindberg kit, one breaking up in a fierce explosion), two in 1:72nd-scale (for the B-17G, the Airfix kit; in a similar project of the B-17F, the Revell AG kit); three replicas in 1:100th-scale; several in 1:144th-scale; a half-dozen or more in 1:200th-scale (it may have been in 1:240th-scale). An ambitious proposal. I frankly doubt my skill in the overall scope of it, especially in the non-standard internal arrangements (electrical, figurines, internal bracing, etc.). The late-war B-17s, all natural metal to save weight, would have little wear, dirt, etc. A number of North American P-51D/K Mustang USAAF Fighters would run escort. Of these latter aircraft, I would like to incorporate the newer 1:24th-scale and 1:32nd-scale models; my hunch is that these would over-complicate the scene. One could include a few, to offset the Messerschmitt Bf-109 and Focke Wulf FW-190 Luftwaffe Fighters. Even including these swift, agile defenders of Germany’s skies requires a bit of thought. If the fearsome heavy anti-aircraft batteries of the Wehrmacht’s experienced artillery regiments were blazing away, with many score black explosions all round, the enemy fighters would be well out of view, though yet close to hand to await their turn. I have similar ideas with the B-17F; these models are grittier, with some showing more battle damage. Another centres round the Hobby Boss kits in 1:32nd-scale and 1:48th-scale of the Consolidated B-24D Liberator USAAF Four-Engine Heavy Bomber, in Desert Sand over Neutral Grey, the desert camouflage of the Mediterranean Theater of Operations (MTO); these (and others) would represent those valiant men who flew at just 250 feet above the deck as they stormed over the sprawling refineries and oilfields of Ploiești (Romanian orthography, formerly spelt Ploești), Romania. In this forced perspective display, I also would add at the base a rather substantial Z-gauge (1:200th-scale) model railroad layout set along a portion of a refinery, its storage tanks, etc., with several lines of train tracks, one bearing generally to the northwest, the other toward the east; great, black explosions here and there would glow red, yellow, orange, scarlet. As I contemplate this, one might not need such a tiny scale/gauge for the setting below. The altitude of just 250 feet above ground-from what I can recall of my reading of the Ploiești air-raids, the height that the USAAF commanding officer of the wing had set, in his effort to 1) achieve surprise (at first succeeding, though the consequences of catching a foe unawares are fleeting) and 2) to avoid the Wehrmacht’s heavier anti-aircraft batteries (the seasoned gunnery officers and their crews quickly compensated with point blank fire)-would be less than eight feet in 1:32nd scale, so objects from the bomber crews’ perspective would not look so small as I initially had estimated; one might be able to use HO-gauge (1:87nd-scale) or even S-gauge (1:64th-scale) model train layout set-pieces. I have plenty of ideas that, if executed well, ought to merit display in museums.

What do they say go big or go home? It’s a trend that many manufactures are following of not supplying pilots. I seem to remember when I last made the B17 you had at least the pilot and co-pilot. Like the idea of leaving the wings off to get the glazing done. Will be trying your method of masking the glazing now the old shakes have taken over, no longer able to do paint the glazing free hand. Another cracking build mate, the light sets it of beautifully, "cùm iad a’ tighinn"

It looks good to me! I can't recall building a B17 as a young lad though I started a 1/48 one some years ago although I never finished it. Some Glenn Miller would have been the ideal accompaniment to this, it's a shame about the copyright.

Oh Mate, where do I start? Sat here with a coffee mug in one hand and a morning coffee biscuit in the other in anticipation. "cùm iad a’ tighinn"

I hope it all goes smoothly.

Looks good Paul, another fine build. Like others I've never heard of Immelman kits before, you've certainly done justice to this one mate. “cùm iad a’ tighinn”

It looks good. I've never heard of Immelman kits before, but this one's a good recommendation for them. I've built some very old kits from the 50s and 60s, the decals were very yellow and usually fell apart, so I scanned them, eliminated the yellowing and printed them, which worked very well. There's a phone app called Hobby Color Converter which I've found extremely useful as I use mostly Tamiya acrylics and it covers most modern paint manufacturers. Humbrol changed their paint numbers so very old Airfix kits can be a problem!

Great result with the Stuka "H" 👏. I really like building older kits. I know many folk don't like " Raised Detail " but I don't really mind them. I like to subtly highlight raised rivets by giving them a light rub with a H.B. Pencil to bring out the detail. What ever your preference you've certainly done Justice to this old Kit. 👍

Hi Paul, lovely work on the mustang and love the motorised Prop. Also nice job on the pilot. Just a suggestion, but if you have any Tamiya panel line accent on hand, you can give the pilot figure a light dab with it to bring out some of the finer details, particularly the facial features. Forgive me if you're already aware, but in regard to NMF finishes on Mustangs, only the fuselage was bare metal. the wings and tail planes had the rivets sanded flush and then painted in aluminium lacquer. ( something about enhancing the "Laminar Flow " of the wings ? ) You can also get a nice variation in tone from a single coat of "Silver " by masking off individual panels and applying different undercoats to those panels. i.e. Gloss / Matt Black, Gloss/ Matt White before applying the top coat. My " go to " paint for painted "Metal " surfaces Is Tamiya " Metallic Silver T.S. 83 Rattle can ( It can be decanted and used with an airbrush if you prefer.) It's a bit expensive - AU$ 26.00 a can here in Oz - but it's a very good product ! The instructions on the can tell you to apply the paint over a gloss black undercoat and not to apply a clear coat . This will give you a very shiny finish ( very close to a polished look ) that once properly cured is very robust and can be handled without damaging the finish. But if you go '"Rogue" like I did initially ( because I didn't read the instructions 😏 ) and just spray it on and coat it with clear afterwards, you will get a very nice approximation of a " natural " aluminium finish. And you can achieve tone variation by using different undercoats as mentioned above. Finally, in regards to the cost of R.C. aircraft, check out the "Eachine Mini Mustang " on Google. This is a fantastic little foam R.C. aircraft ( Approx 300mm wingspan.) It has throttle, aileron, elevator, rudder and trim control. 3 axis Gyro stabilisation with beginner, medium and expert settings. an "Aerobatic " button. and comes complete with the Radio Control transmitter , 2 or 3 batteries, charger , and a spare prop. All for around AU$ 120.00 ( what ever that converts to in Pounds ? ) delivered . The low mass of the aircraft makes it very survivable when you invariably have a mishap , and in " Begginer" mode is very easy for the novice pilot to come to grips with. I can't recommend it highly enough. Again, check out the various KZbin Videos about this aircraft out there. Apologies for the long winded comment and I hope I haven't come across as trying to " teach you to suck eggs " as that is surely not my intention. Looking forward to your future videos and wishing you great success with your Channel. 🍻 Dean.

I agree with you too regarding the childhood we had and the young of today who are constantly attached to a screen. Learning practical skills is never wasted. That's a nice build, but are those Japanese flags underneath the cockpit? I like the birdsong!

Paul another brilliant video. Scrumping? One never admits to wrong doings (HeHe 🤫🤫snigger). Making throwing arrows out of thin bamboo canes with cut-down playing cards as flights, by watching your big brother, model making enables you to follow a set of instructions and sets you up for future things. You learn to use a knife in modelling, and to whittle, instinctively know when something looks right. Me and my mate back in the 60’s when a model was being a pig we would finish it as best, then take the offending thing, be it boat or plane down Robbie’s brook and blast it to bits with our air rifles, not saying anyone should do this, but satisfaction was immense. As they say up here “cùm iad a’ tighinn”

Cracking our Maurice, fantastic! Brilliant post Paul. "cùm iad a’ tighinn" PS loving the new graphics

Hot mug of coffee in one hand and a doughnut in the other watching Paul making stuff again, a cracking build Paul, you haven’t done a bad one yet. "cùm iad a’ tighinn"

The canvas rolls on the bonnet were very clever, one of my upcoming projects will definitely have some of those. I like the open hatch too. A good little diorama.

Some great tips there, Mr. Paul. A fun kit, and a great build from you!

NIce. But please pay the manufacturers and designers of this innovative aircraft due respect by at least spelling 'Messerschmitt' correctly.

Well done!

Very nice! Excellent job on the electronics and putting the crew in, which always improves a model. I really must get on with my Tamiya 1/48 Lanc- I started it a couple of years ago and it's about time I made some more progress on it.

Well done! That's a very nice diorama, lots going on in it. As somebody else who doesn't have a 3D printer (though one day ...), I found your tinfoil-shaping tool to be absolute genius! I've got loads of sprues, I'll make my own, possibly more than one for different scales. And after 28 years of being a land & building surveyor I have no excuse for not being good at measuring!

Make stuff... out of... well stuff. I love watching scratch building making anything out the unusual. Pure imagination. Another fine entertaining build, Sir. "cùm iad a’ tighinn"

Hi. Really good job on the 'Lanc'. I didn't see you matt varnish your kit, did you do that ? I like the idea of the lighting and motorising the props. I have never even consider that on my many aircraft builds over the years. Might give it a go on the next one, a Stuka. You might want to get a bigger space if your going to make larger aircraft. It looks like your under the stairs. Well done and I hope your medical issue works out well. Kindest regards.

I must remember your trick of using the paper as canvas! Might it have made things slightly easier to cut it to size before gluing it? Looking forward to the next episode!

Well done, did enjoy that especially the work on the canvas tilt. In the past I have done something similar using copper wire for the frame (from twin and earth stripped) and scraps of material, never thought about using the decal cover paper, good one 👍 "cùm iad a’ tighinn"

It's looking good, can't wait for Part 2!

Absolutely cracking work, loved watching this video "cùm iad a’ tighinn"

As a kid , I was really happy to see that kit . Was so tired of all the , dime a dozen B17 kits out there .

brilliant fab build 😀

Really, really enjoyed watching that build well done mate 👌👌

Revisiting your back catalogue, this is a little gem with the motor, and I will be visiting Poundland very soon. Keep em coming

You look chuffed and you should be, absolutely brilliant.

That's a nice conversion! My current project also involves going 'off-piste' and discarding the instructions- the important thing is to work out the sequence of adding parts and not gluing until you're sure that adding a particular part or sub-assembly won't make it difficult or impossible to add other bits. I've only gone wrong twice!

I'm really sorry about this, but there's no way I can possibly resist it: Nice Beaver!

brilliant really enjoyable and great skill 😄

It looks great! Excellent work on the seabed, waves and smoke. I agree with you about putting crew figures in. I once saw a model of a B17 in flight with lights and spinning props, but with no crew. It just looked silly.

Glad to see someone has a cutting mat nearly as knackered as mine😂 nice video.

The smoke looks great with the LEDs. I'm looking forward to the next instalment!

Nice one! I'm glad you found the tip helpful. I'm looking forward to further episodes.

Nice work removing the fingerprints! I usually leave them so I can prove that I built the model, should it become necessary at some point in the future 😜. I've done a good few kits of a similar vintage to this one, they can be challenging but usually turn out quite well.

Cool model. 👍

That's a nice little scene. I've got far too many items in my spares boxes, I ought to use some of them on something similar. I've done a lot of figures and I've found the best way to paint them is to start with the flesh and work outwards. This way, any slight errors are covered up by the next layer. It works for me!

Everyone goes on about the quality of these paints as if they are different from the bottles buy I'd put money on them being exactly the same. I've goy tons of these as well and I've also brought them back to life. Be careful with how much Humberol acrylic thinner yo use though as there is a retarder in it that stops tip dry in airbrush jobs. You can use it but it will take longer for your paint to dry. On other hand it levels off great giving a finish better than spraying. Nothing wrong with paints at all and it infuriates me when so called experienced modellers advise to chuck them in the bin because they don't know how to use them.