Thanks for the comment. My video show one cheep DIY example of how to do it based on the recommendations for welding by professionals in the market. They warn against weaknesses caused by excess temperatures. I do know the method you describe using flames or indirect to heat up heat other metal surfaces to be used. But I have not seen trials test data from measurements regarding strength and durability. Your method will be easier, and may work in most cases, but I cannot recommend something that do not have some scientific or professional reference.

It is a DIY design, so unfortunately it will be hard to buy a sewing machine able to do this. There is three important issues to make this happen: 1) Correct low gearing of motor to sewing machine. 2) You need a pedal with a large change of foot pressure on it from lowest to highest speed (10 times change in pressure is good and unfortunately most common sewing machine pedals only got a change of a factor 1.5 or less). 3) You need motor control electronics, that receives a feed back signal from a sensor measuring the motor speed. I suggest you look at some of my other videos on my channel about my Pfaff 230 and the electronics. My current electronics on my Pfaff 230 actually have improved the speed control to an even better level than seen in this video. I plan to make more videos about more details on motor speed control.

@@sewingmachinesindetail can you share the design?

@@donaldharris1763 Yes, but I do not have every detail of the design documented. What part of the design is of your interest? Are you member of some forum for sewing machines on which information can be shared?

I have not seen a gauge sold solely for the purpose of measuring presser foot pressure on sewing machines. However force sensors are easy available as spring dynamometers or similar electronic pull force sensors. Spring dynamometers are also a nice gauge for measuring thread tension. If you wanted to make more devices for this purpose for sale, you may want to make it a bit different to make it easier to use.

I have not seen these machines for sale in Denmark, so I do not think that they might have been sold here in small quantities only. They do need needles not that often used or perhaps they can work with the Singer 20U bobbin cases.

@@sewingmachinesindetail my ones use 15x1 or i have a 206k industial sub version takes dbx1 needles only round needles fit that one

@@sewingmachinesindetail the the singer 319 an swing needle family are based on the 130 pfaff machine so the one you got there is probly pritty close to my 306 / 319

@@rndea100 I have tried to look into that. I noticed, that the size of the bobbins are not the same on the Pfaffs and the Singer 306/319/20U. So I do not think that hooks, bobbin cases etc. can be interchanged. But the principle of the hook is the same. I think the possible decorative stitches of the 319 is better, because they include blind stitch and 3-point zig zag. The Pfaff 230 and similar cannot do these kind of stitches, because the decorative zig zag movement is not synchronized with a gear. I think that another important detail is the maximum length of reverse stitches. Most Pfaffs got full max reverse stitch length compared to max forward stitch length. Most Singers got about only half max reverse stitch length. I should like to know how this is with the Singer 306 and 319.

Good to know. Can you set the temperature of the styrocutter thread?

@@sewingmachinesindetailjust have a wheel 1 to 9 had it on 8 or 9 i think

Thanks. I think it was interesting to see how much torque the sewing machine needed at different parts of the sewing cycle. Until now I only got a wake idea about how it looked like. So I just wanted to share the data for others to see. If you design a motor drive for a sewing machine, such data is nice to have compared to no data at all.

Thanks. No. The normal sewing machine pedals are made in two ways. 1) The pedals that directly controls the AC-power to an universal AC motor by use of a variable resistance or by use of a triac dimmer circuit. These pedals can often be used on more kinds of sewing machines with universal AC motors. 2) Dedicated pedals that controls some control electronics in the sewing machine. These pedals can be very different with different brands and types of sewing machines, but they often got a small low power variable resistor in them. In this case I use a 24 VDC motor and some dedicated electronics to control it. You can change the electronics, so it can receive a signal of the type 2 type above.

Thanks for the comment, and I am glad that you like my videos. I know some of the Singer 306k use 206x13 needles. However, some use the 20U bobbin cases, and then you may be able to use normal 130/705H needles. This kind of drive I now trying here makes a good transfer of power with only minor transmission losses. I made a playlist of videos from many other users, that have tried different motor machine transmission with higher gearing ratio.

@@sewingmachinesindetail I have a few fully metal 158 series Sears Kenmore sewing machines with the torque reduction pulley system "borrowed" from Bernina. I appreciate the slower yet more powerful torque these pulleys provide at the needle plate for sure. I wish I knew what 20U bobbin case I could use off the shelf, so to speak. My machine definitely uses these bobbin types, but has not been configured (yet) to use class 15 style needles. When I do; I'll be able to use up to a size 18 leather needle, which will help a great deal. What I appreciate with this Singer, as well as the 206K and 319K as well is the tough, durable infrastructure they built into these machines with this so-called "swing" system. It basically has the pedigree of a semi-industrial, and I am hoping to convert mine to take on heavier duty sewing roles. I will likely "borrow" the pulley off the Kenmore 120.71 and, if I am able, create a larger reduction gear like you have done with some of your machines in the past. That 1.5 amp motor should be power plant enough to give me the needle power I'm looking for without worrying too much about a machine that over-speeds at the pedal. While it might lack the extra high presser foot lift of a Sailrite, it has better "bones", and should be fantastic at taking on really tough sewing jobs once it's correctly configured. Thank you again, and I look forward to your next instalment.

@@shopwornbear1171 shame you cant add the extra walking foot to the 206k / 306 319 320 would be a beast cus it can zig zag aswel as strait stich i just got a 31k47 with a kick walking foot a wonder if the part cuold sum how fit on the 319k i rekan you may be able to put a servo on to them for lower speeds would be nice power ihave a industrail version on the 206k with the knee lift takes dbx1 needles

I am glad, that you find the information on my channel useful. I am not going to reveal my email in public. In general, you can also get good advise in many forums on internet about vintage sewing machines, and there you can post pictures etc.

@@sewingmachinesindetail Thanks for the reply! Are there any particular forums that you recommend? I've been on some, but never seen anyone doing the kind of work you do.

@@rseny The best groups are in German language, but I guess, that you are from US with the Kenmores. There is a FB-group for the Singer 201, that is quite good. There is a FB-groups for the Japaneese machines (Kenmore) and another for Necchi machines.

Perhaps I can help you a bit of the way. Do the machine already got a motor? What is the mains voltage, in your country? What kind of fabrics do you want to sew?

You are welcome 🙂

Thanks for the comment. I am glad, that the video helped you.

Thanks for showing this nice speed reducer. I hope, that the machine works better for you now. Perhaps you have seen the playlist I made with other KZbin, that also made a DIY speed reducer. I should like to add your video to this playlist as well, for others to see and get inspired.

@@sewingmachinesindetail - Thank you! Sure, feel free to add my video to your playlist. I made it so that other people can see it and get inspired. There are many possible ways to make a speed reduction system.

Thanks for the comment. I am actually not sure, what force that would be sufficient. I just know that 5 N was sufficient for my use. It is by the way a force [N] and not a torque [Nm]. I guess the amount of force would depend on the friction in mechanics and the speed in use, but I have not made any trials or calculations to provide guidance on that.

@@sewingmachinesindetail Thank you for your reply. I just finished my fabrication of attachment brackets for spring. I just order a 5N gauge on Ebay to see what force I have it set up at currently with the spring I'm using. Love to send a pic to you of what I did. Bryan

@@bryancathey3242 I think you should manage to do it. I do not share my e-mail here. But there is FB groups for sewing machines, that all can make reasonable evaluations.

I am glad, that it helped. Be aware of the extra comments I made in text about why you got the normal late timing. If you like to have very detailed information, I got a long video about one stitch.

Thanks. If you advance to much, the needle bar will move too much sideways before the needle leave the fabric. It is however less critical there, because it do not interfere with the clearance to the hook.

Thanks for you comment. I do not intend to make more videos about speed reducers. I hope, that you noticed my playlists, and there I collected other peoples solutions with similar speed reducers. Therefore I suggest, that you look there: kzbin.info/aero/PLhBGyDo4tov9kDCI9TwtluQFzKlVpF2YA

@@sewingmachinesindetail Thank you. I will look in to that playlist. :)

@@madvelila - FYI, I just uploaded a video of my design based on the design in the video above (which has been very helpful in getting this right) kzbin.info/www/bejne/d2e7Y4qahtV5qtU.

Thanks for your comment. I was very confused about this issue, when I did the welding first time, and therefore I made this video. When you look at my text to video, you find sources of information recommending both higher and lower temperatures, than the 270 C i use, but it is in the range 250 to 300 C. If you have no control of temperature, you can easily do welding outside this range. Be aware of the material properties as well, as I mention in the text.

Thanks for the question. This is the video about the speed reducer. It is on a Singer 201, but it is done in exactly the same way: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pX_Wfalnd6eshJI I got a playlist regarding all the videos about modifications regarding the Singer 237: kzbin.info/aero/PLhBGyDo4tov86GVVCUzTF9RyH7HHW_Ha6

@@sewingmachinesindetail ok, I have seen that video already. Thanks!

Thanks for your remark. I am glad, that it solved your problem with thick fabrics. Be aware of my later comment in text. When you change the feed timing like this, the machine will have problems keeping the stitches balanced, when the machine sew thinner fabrics. I got a later more detailed about one stitch, that explains the technical issue, and why it is so.

I highly doubt you can find spare parts for the type of machine in the video. If you're lucky, you can find another used machine and buy it cheap.

You are not the only one, that have warned me about this. I can say, that the machine have sewn 2500 m of M20 thread on similar fabrics, and I have not yet seen any sign of wear or damage. These kind of machines are cheap to get in my country, and I like the machine to occupy little space and to be portable. Therefore I am OK with the possible small risk of damage.

Jeg bruger også en Singer 201k, og du vil finde flere videoer på min kanal om den maskine, som er modificeret. Prøv at kig lidt nærmere på mine playlister. Jeg har i øvrigt een 201k mere i reserve, om noget skulle gå galt. Jeg bruger Serafil tråd fra Amann. Amann leverer sytråd af høj kvalitet. Organ og Schmetz har bedst renomé for symaskinenåle til husholdningsmaskiner, men jeg tror også mange andre er OK. Hold dig fra nåle af mærket "Flying Man".

@@sewingmachinesindetail takk😊 jeg skal se på videoene dine. Men kan jeg bruke Serafil tråder også på min Singer som ikke er modifiseret? Evt. hvilken tykkelse? Jeg ønsker en mest mulig tykk tråd

@@GertiOettl Ja, du kan bruge Serafil tråd på umodificeret Singer 201. Men tråden er beregnet til lidt kraftigere materialer. Du kan læse om Serafil tråd her: www.amann.com/products/product/serafil/ Uden modifikationer kan Singer 201 arbejde med op til Tex 70 tråd og måske Tex 90 tråd. For tyndere tråde er det ikke så vigtigt hvilket fabrikat af tråd, som du vælger.

Yes, I actually use more viscous oil for machines I use for low speed heavy work - I use ISO 100 oil. You can get such mineral oil for spindles and chain saws. I already placed a couple of links to larger size needles in the description.

@@sewingmachinesindetail Thank you. Have you ever seen also leather point needles in sizes larger than 19/120 in the domestic 130/705 system? What do you think would be the approximate ISO viscosity rating for regular domestic sewing machine oil? Unfortunately it's never written on the bottle.

@@user-us1so4mq9h I got some leather needles by White Egret (Chinese brand) from a German shop. It can be a bit risky from this brand, but the needles did work. Look here: www.ebay.de/itm/Nadeln-130-705-LR-140-er-zum-LEDER-nahen-20-NAHNADELN/112170380582 You may need to contact him directly. I made another video about needles, and you may want to look there as well.

@@sewingmachinesindetail Thank you for the link, I will contact the seller. I wonder, have you ever broken some part of a machine while sewing with extremely heavy thread and material? Which part of the machine is at the highest risk, in your opinion?

@@user-us1so4mq9h I have not sewn much with the Tex 210 thread. But I have sewn about 2500 m Tex 135 thread, and I have not broken any parts by that. The motor I got is a low weaker than any industrial servo motor,. I have seen some users use an industrial servo motor for a such a household sewing machine, at I guess that you the take a higher risk. I guess that the take-up lever might be the weakest part for this, but I do not know. I use a thicker oil for the machine - ISO 100. Many professional sewing machine people warns against using a domestic machine like this, but I think these machines are that cheep to get, that it do not matter to me. I like the machine to be transportable and not occupying that much space as an industrial.

The Singer 127 is a vibration shuttle machine. It got a significantly different sewing cycle and way of operation. In general these kinds of machines can work with less thread tension. Before about 1960, sewing machine threads was often cotton thread and not so strong as we are used to later on. These long shuttle machines were able to handle the thread with less stress and wear. I am not sure why the Singer 99 should manage to sew with less thread tension. I think the hook of the Singer 99 and 66 require less machine power than the Singer 15 for the same work. At low of other things can cause differences in thread tension like machining of the presser foot, bobbin thread tension, feed timing and down force on presser foot.

thanks for the reply. I would like to compare the 127, 15, 99, and my 115 that is coming soon.@@sewingmachinesindetail

Thanks. I like to put some measurements and numbers in my videos, so other sewing machine users can be able to make a real comparison. I live in Europe with the double voltage of US. Therefore you got the double current for similar motor in the US. But wattage will make best sense. Be aware, that there is a quite large difference and variation between marked values on motors and their real output shaft power. The motor is marked 180 W for the Singer 201 shown in this video, but the weight of it is only 0.5 kg. Therefore it will heat up fast if you use it at low speeds. Therefore the speed reducer helps a lot. This 180 W motor got a max shaft power of 54 W at 5700 RPM. The motor I got on my Pfaff 230 is marked only 145 W, but is performs significant better with an output shaft power of 83 W at 5000 RPM. The main reason for its better performance is because it got a larger weight of 1.2 kg. When the manufacturer tries to limit the use of copper and iron to cut costs, you will get a motor with less efficiency.

Interesting. I'll be picking up two 230's next month, both with the KU-52 motors. An interesting motor set up is the Durkopp 1031. Stated at 25 watts but direct drive with full cleated belt, it really stitches well. I can only imagine that machine with more watts haha@@sewingmachinesindetail

Sorry, I am not that familiar with automotive vacuum tubing, so I am able to compare. I got no experience in using cyanacrylate glue on PU material. In general, I know that a black V-belts (the raw edge types are best) will cause less transmission loss on a sewing machine. I made another video to compare belts and pulleys.

@@sewingmachinesindetail OK, thanks!

I have seen this figure of 1200 stitches per minute before in forum messages about the 201, and I have looked a bit in manuals, but I have not found the source of this information. The maximum speed of the machines I got have been 1025 s/m max, and they are with a belt. The speed increased in time due to oil and belt warming up, and the machine is just running free. I have been in contact with a guy with a potted motor, that had a trustworthy measurement of up to 1400 s/m. I got no information about the 401. I think it do depend of using sewing machine oil with low viscosity.

Ok thank you so much! I just measured my 201-2 (potted motor) with the digital tachometer - and after a few measurements averaged 680. I’ve recently oiled and lubed it but maybe it’s a motor issue? It’s in a Singer 42 cabinet with a built in foot pedal. Might check that too?😀

@@MyMike509 Yes 680 seems low. Sometimes the gears have got grease instead of oil, and it can slow the machine down significantly.

The normal bobbin thread tension for standard thread is 0.23 N. But it will be in order to increase or decrease this bobbin tension in order to see an improvement of the stitch quality. But when you have set the bobbin thread tension, you should always correct the main tensioner to achieve balanced stitches.

Good to know - thank you so much for the response! @@sewingmachinesindetail

Thanks for your comment. Nice to learn, that your parents came from Denmark. I have not made videos about sewing machines in Danish. There are too few Danish people interested in vintage sewing machine, for it to make sense. But I guess, that you perhaps just want to listen a bit to the Danish language, and then I have this video used for explain something for the coaches in the gymnastics club, that I am helping. kzbin.info/www/bejne/rYnTp5mVq912pa8

Thanks. I am glad, that the video was helpful to you.

I know, that washer fits this way on my two Singer 66k. 6:20 in the video, you can see a check of the foot lift release, and it works on my machines, and with thick thread as well. I have seen machines with other reasons that cause no foot lift tension release. There is an inside bracket, that put pressure on the tension release pin. If the inside screw, that holds this bracket is loose, you can have problem with pressure release. You can have a lot of old dirt at the bottom of the machine head, that prevents the bracket to move as it should. Furthermore the bracket can have been bended for some reason. This other KZbinr do it the same way as I do: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qIu3g5Zsfd2CZtE

@@sewingmachinesindetail Hi, thanks for replying, i have watched the other video you linked, he has it wrong too, both of you show the rings barely moving when you lift the food and neither give a demonstration of the needle tension with the foot up and then down, please just try it, it takes 15 seconds and tell me which way releases better, it makes sense because the middle of that ring is then closer to the rod that pushes it. If i have it your way round it barely moves and i still have drag, my way it moves over 2mm and completely releases and such a joy to use. neither of you show the machine actually working, stitching and then coming to the end, lifting the foot and drawing the material out smoothly, like i say, just try it and tell me which way works better.

@@aaronmelchior4349 Well, I know, that my two machines work like I did it. I just tried to turn this washer on one of my my 66k. A turned washer causes the tension to be released all the time no matter that the foot is down. I think, that some other issue have caused your machine to work like this. Another reason can be, that a previous owner replaced the pressure release pin, but to a pin with a shorter length. How many machines have you tried this on?

@@sewingmachinesindetail 'Hi! i have only got one of these machines, and all the others i have looked at on line since show it your way round, so without measuring it can only conclude as you have suggested that the pin is shorter than normal as mine works perfectly this way round and wont work your way round, i have always put up with it but knew it wasnt right which is why i was on your post, thanks for taking the time to answer my rant, all the best, aaron,

Sorry, I do not have sufficient experience with this machine to say what may be causing the knocking noise of your machine.

@@sewingmachinesindetail Thanks for responding.

Thanks for the comment. I am glad, that the video was useful for you.

Also, can you recommend a link to a shop that sells stronger springs?

I guess, that the size 30 thread (Tex 90) is too thick for stock machine. The beehive spring will not be able to set sufficient stable high thread tension. I hope, that you did oil the shuttle hook - it is the most important place to oil this kind of machines. But the machine will make some more noise, than a Bernina would do. I made a playlist of relevant videos regarding the Singer 237, and I suggest that you take a look of them. One is about the beehive spring and with links to possible suppliers. studio.kzbin.infoPLhBGyDo4tov86GVVCUzTF9RyH7HHW_Ha6/videos

@@sewingmachinesindetail thank you kindly for sharing your knowledge and experience! Your videos are extremely informative.

@@trabantdelux Thanks. I am glad that you find the information useful.

I am glad, that you found the information useful.

If you for some reason have taken the PCB out of the in the machine again, there is a lever connection to the solenoid, that needs to be connected in the right way again. It is a common error by that. I got another video about how to reduce start speed, at it explains how to dismantle and reassemble this part of the machine.

The lever is in correctly. The solenoid valve doesn't pull down so the lever stops the needle.

@@marios852 If the solonoid do not activate, then you got no needle stop. I guess the motor do drive the machine as it should - right?

I am sorry, that you lost this screw. I cannot help you much. You can get another tensioner when you google them, but the price including shipment is typically about $40. If you live in Germany or a country nearby, you can get another Pfaff 30 cheaper than that. There is some forums on sewing machines, and you may ask there. There is a FB-group on Vintage Pfaff sewing machines. Furthermore two German forums: www.naehmaschinentechnik-forum.de/ and www.hobbyschneiderin.de/

I cannot guide you regarding Pfaff 50.