Good to hear, hope it was helpful!

@@AndyRock1 just a mistake. I had charged a different battery before and plugged this one in for the video.

Injora is great. I need to try more of their tires. I’m actually running the Trail Kings on this rig now and they’re pretty nice, although a little stiff

Awesome, hope it works well for you! I’ve really enjoyed using it lately. & if you find ways to improve it, be sure to share as well 👍🏽

It's a great rig out of the box! The aftermarket for it is quickly growing, too.

I’ll have to give it a shot! Happy crawling 🤘🏽

lol!

Pretty small, it's 1/24 so easy to run around outside without needing go too far out of your way. The limiting strap holds some of the front links to the frame to keep body from sitting too high up during climbs. I have another video coming that shows this working really well in a couple weeks. Cape Crawlers does a great breakdown of this if you look up his channel!

+Felix Montanez Yes. I used to use a direct drive extruder and the E3D Titan is a geared extruder with a different sized drive gear from my previous set up. It is very easy to calculate your new e-step number, input it w/ M92 and save to EEPROM. If you look at E3D's assembly instructions for the Titan they address this in their "Firmware Calibration" section. Value for 1/32 microstepping should be approximately 912 steps/mm with a 1.8 degree stepper.

+sugatooth thank you. How is it holding up so far ? I noticed you've printed in PLA and PET. Have you had a chance to print any exotic filament like Nylon or Ninja Flex yet ?

+Misterbaz This is Push Plastic natural PETG. I just installed this new extruder and wanted to give it a shot at that speed. I actually print everything at 80 mm/s standard now. I have also done flexibles at 50 mm/s (haven't tried anything faster)

+Misterbaz 0.3 mm layers, spiral vase mode (single perimeter, 0% infill, no top layers). Just my normal 0.4 mm nozzle. The clarity is more an attribute of the PETG. But you're right, it would be even more clear if I used a larger nozzle with thicker layers.

+Corneleous “Sharkey” Worthington Hi, nothing particularly special about it here--I designed a stabilizer that would brace the acme rod with the 2 Z axis smooth rods. You can find lots of other examples on Thingiverse; just search "Printrbot 1405 Z stabilizer" or something. Good luck! And thanks! I actually have built a larger metal frame and cannibalized all the Simple's electronics for a "better, faster, stronger" machine I dubbed "Scrappybot." Hope to get some videos of it on here soon!

+Nuno Oliveira Hi Nuno, this used a 0.8mm nozzle at a 0.6033mm layer height (0.6mm optimized calculation for my lead screw & motor)

+DavidtheNerd c The Printrboard has power and thermistor connections for a heated bed. It will run fine off of those as long as you upgrade your power supply to something that can provide enough power. If you mod your bed to something bigger that requires more power, you'll probably want to use something like a Solid State Relay so you can power it with a different supply while the Printrboard controls the temperature.

+DavidtheNerd c Hey David, I got mine off of eBay from a seller called "3dheatbeds" just search for something like "Printrbot Heated Bed" and all their items will pop up. They ship from Arizona and mine has been running flawlessly since I received it. You'll need a bigger power supply than the laptop one that comes with the Simple. Hope this helps!

wi11y1960 Hi, you're certainly right! That among other things is a definite drawback to this design, but for me the pros of Bowden extrusion outweigh the cons. For the cantilevered design of my Printrbot Simple, being able to take the weight of the motor off of the hot end adds a huge boost in performance. Not only does it alleviate a lot of the "Y axis sag" that plagues this printer design, but for its flimsy wooden frame, it allows it to perform at higher speeds with overall better print quality than what I was experiencing originally. The performance of Rostock/Kossel delta-style printers and machines like Ultimakers are a testament to this. With this budget printer, I'd gladly take more accurate, more detailed, and quicker prints even if it means losing 18" inches of filament at the end of my spool :) Thanks for sharing! Cheers!

Naturally. It's actually a different set that fits a different size spool

Check the link in the description :3

Whoa, thanks man! I may sit down and record an actual cover soon. Find it on here or on SoundCloud :)