Foil is genius

Brilliant. 👍

thank you! very useful video.

Great video, just about to replace mine in the next couple of days. Thankyou for doing this. 😅

Bolt slot cut out! Foil for openings…..brilliant!

Great advice mate thank you

Is AMK the facelift compressor fitted to ‘15 onwards?

tip, extend a 100 ratchiting spanner by 80 mm

Amigo, eu gostaria de saber se tem possibilidade de adaptação de um compressor AMK em uma Discovery originalmente compressor HITACHI.

Great job

Fantastic job!

Just completed this today using the video. Was too difficult to pull black hose out of connector at 5:22 but realised could just unscrew the connector very easily so did that. Also had Trouble removing one of the torx screws to access the bead chamber so had to remove compressor from the mounting plate to get access. Not seeing the the access height only fault yet so fingers crossed. Although it seems to be taking a longer time to raise now? Suspension fault came on upon first start up and front wasn’t raising but then disconnected battery and now raising and lowering. Just slow in raising though. The top mounting bolt was tricky but I was able to start the bolt by hand without cutting the slot in the mounting bracket as I didn’t have tools to cut it. Great video thanks. Hopefully saves me over $2000 quoted to get the compressor replaced.

Great video I have a donloop Compressor, but this will extremely helpful for someone who has AMK

I have an 05 lr3 i kimda love it. It makes everyday easier.. ❤

Excellent video. Thanks mate. Did you have any torque specs for those air line bolts. Also did you just plug the hose into the black filter intake? I will be checking my one in a week or two. Bought Disco 3 Feb this year, the compressor was built on 2013, I am expecting it hasnt been changed since 2013!

What symptoms did you have on the disco?

Why on earth did LR locate the compreesor in such a crappy location. They could have put it in one of the side cubbyholes in the interior. Do you have any thoughts about relocating it? They could have at least located the dessicator at the intake in the cubby hole!

Does anyone know how the part number for replacement bracket bolts as 2 of the 3 of them rounded off

enlightened. even the comments have been valuable. about to buy a 93000km 2015 sdv6 that's been loved. Pretoria, South Africa.

En français

After literally screwing around for almost an hour trying to get the top mounting bolt undone, I realized it will never come out due to the nut/clip being broken and spinning inside the frame. Another way to remove pump - loosen bottom fasteners on mounting bracket, and just easily unscrew the (3) pump mounts from the bracket and slide out. My beads were totally caked powder on one end.

been a diesel and large engine mech all my life, your foil idea is new to me bravo, I am in Buderim and you are one of one in 10000 who call a screw a screw, most say bolt, which drives me nuts

❤❤❤❤

I’m experiencing the 3rd issue with the throttle body now. Glad I’ve seen your clip. 🙌🏼 I thought the throttle body may be developing a crack.

Thanks very much, what a difference and no suspension faults as at 1 hour later, but I know 1 hour in DIY is a long time. Great tip about the top bolt slot cut out. What a nightmare that would have been as hands will no go in there.

Any chance you could link us to Shane’s video? Or Channel at least? I’d love more detail on that slot cut, assume you just cut it with the compressor just there mounted

You should loosen the filter housing, let it drain to sump. Then loosen filler cap. Then pump out the oil. Also the oil filter seal should be in that groove not at the end of thread 😢

Thanks for the video, I’ve just ordered my kit for the compressor and o-ring kit for the valve blocks.

Very helpful video, thank you, I would have expected the beads to be in worse condition than they were.

Do you still need to do these mods if you don't go off road.

If you had released the filter cap by two full turns before sucking the oil out your sump would have been empty, as it is you allowed the oil to drain from the filter housing down into the sump after you had used the suction pump and that is what came out when you removed the drain plug. Also when putting the new O ring on the filter housing you should seat it in the O ring groove rather than just sit it on the threaded section.

Did you really have to dismount the whole pump? It looks like the dessicator would come off without doing all that.

The first couple of changes on my US spec V8 petrol I used the suction method then opened the drain plug. Nothing ever came out so I don’t bother anymore. Just do the suction method every 5k miles.

Nice one mate.

Should you loosen the oil filler cap to prevent creating a vacuum?

More content please 👍👍👍

I like the use of the aluminium foil. Great idea. Mine is also 7 years old. Those beads did not look too bad in yours. The new beads looked to be bigger though. Did you buy a service kit with new O rings as well?

Great tip. I recall losing a few of them myself so I have spares now. Pity you disabled comments on the later oil change video. That was an interesting comparison. I have seen others do more accurate measurements of how much oil goes back in (LR Time). Pretty clean car for QLD. You must be taking good care of it. BTW your first video was just featured in the latest LR Time installment. Christian showed exactly the problem you highlighted with the air intake coming off.

Excellent tips thanks. I only knew about one of these.

The best thing you can do for yourself, is dont buy a land rover or a range rover!!!! if you do you might be better off just taking your money in the garden and setting fire to it, it isn't a case of if it breaks , i's a case of when it breaks! and it will, i live in the UK, I've been to Aus, and there is no way i would risk my life driving out in the bush or back roads of Austria in any of theses.

Just checked my radiator hose and found a deep cut. Thanks for your video.

Thanks for the info

Mate, such a simple solution... I just love it!!

Excellent mate - I had to sit in the left front seat of the roll-back because of the radiator hose that was chafed through. I am also now replacing the top Intercooler hose between Intercooler and intake, as a result of it chafing through on the underside next to the airbox intake pipe... Hope this helps... I got the dreaded Turbo boost low error sporadically until it was so bad that it occurred once a week... now all sorted.

Terrific Thanks kindly for that !

Great info. I did the intake fix on my 2011 RRS 3.0 TDV6 about a month ago. To double down you can add a long zip tie from the plenum to the pipe using the holes in them to pull it into place since nothing holds that side. My engine cover already has a huge cutout and looks original. We had a 2010 RRS 3.0 TDV6 in the shop last week with the cut radiator hose issue which is when I checked mine. Will look at the air conditioner lines today and get that squared away if needed. I think there’s already foam there though if I remember correctly.

British Engineers, not English. 👍🏻

Well that first one was stupidly smart. High mileage disco, might as well check mine and cut it out 👍

Most cars a place for everything and everything in its place, LR a place for everything and everything held in place by foam.

Thanks for sharing that. Interestingly, the 2016 D4 already has the engine cover modified same as yours along with the aircon pipes. I did remove the air intake and file some of the plastic housing to give clearance to the top water pipe.