little thing i do when replacing sections with the pinch weld flanges is to drill out the top panel's spot weld where i'm going to make the final cut, i then cut right through the center of the spot weld hole rather than between two, i then punch a half hole on the ends of the panel i'm putting in so i have a full plug weld hole across the two panels on the flange. i find this allows for better penetration to the bottom layer vs welding a straight butt cut, it also makes it easier to walk that plug weld out to the edge of the flange where the cut line is. try it on a test panel see if you like it.

Excellent 👍

Nice work

Hi their Shelley absolutely love the cortina my uncle had a 74 2000gxl

This is one of the better things on KZbin. Have a good seasonal holiday.

shelley you also spot weld or plug weld the part of inner rear valence to outer, the part where reg plate would go, theres a bump that sticks out, its welded to outer, i think i missed this on bramble but got it on PAPPA

great work.shelley

Another step closer, to a solid shell, well done, keep going, your doing fine, all the best from Keith.

What would you say has caused the amount of rust it has? Was it like it before being stored?

Have you thought about using panel bond in some places?

Damn good work Shelley. Nice repair on the chassis legs and inner quarters

Hi Shelley, great to see you have been beavering away in the background. Glad to see you have mastered the dark art of the spot weld drill bit ! One thing on using these I found was to use in conjunction with a pair of 'body panel seam splitters' ,you can buy them as a pair (one straight /one with a right angled end) they're hardened steel and help/speed up the separating of the panels -as there's always a few of the spot welds that you never get bang on when drilling out ! The "wiggling " back and fourth obviously works up to a point but less deformation of either panel using the splitters. When welding in decent sized replacement sections I'm painting the inaccessible areas with body colour paint (proper bodyshop paint mixed into a rattle can from local paint suppliers) less the edges where they would be welded in -similar to cortina man,at least this way its just the backs of the weld line that would need some protection when cavity wax/waxoyling etc later down the line ? Happy you are progressing -I'm on the home straight here too with mine (albight when weather is allowing).

That interior takes me back to Africa and the jungle oh those seat covers

I admire your effort but that I wouldn’t want to be in that car in a hard stop never mind an accident. You’ve taken on a basket case that is can only be repaired with new panels, not buggering around to learning to weld!!

Serious amount of work been achieved on this car Shelley well done mate youve come such a long way with it and doing a super job it’s gonna be a real cracker of a car 👍

Hi Shelley, Great to see a new video, your doing well, and to answer your question on the coating on the lower rear quarter area, Ford did not coat them with any anti rust treatment other than the Electro plated grey zinc primer coat, They did offer underseal as an option at extra cost when you bought the cars Brand New which few owners opted for, thus most that were made started to rust after 7 years in the British weather, and exposed to road salt in winter, so what you found would have been done by a past owner or at the time of the accident repair maybe. I was not surprised to see the replacement inner valance not painted, a lot of body shops just fitted them with factory primer, and no extra protection, on the inside, presuming the car would be scrapped in a few years time down the line, soon as I saw the Ford sticker I knew it was a repair replacement panel, due to past accident damage, as the stickers only go on repair panel stock, so if you find one on a car while restoring it, you know it has had some work in the past. nice to see it was done with a genuine Ford panel, obviously the owner at the time cared, and paid for a quality panel.on your beautiful 2000E, all the best from Keith.

Are new replacement panels being made for Mk3s?

Hi do you know how to remove the sunvisor in a MK3 ford cortina ? Need help if you can

For a novice your doing very very well,I know that you will succeed in your adventure and your car will look beautifull,good luck👍👍🍺🍺🇬🇧🇬🇧

I would use matching vinyl on the top of the rear seat,it will last longer too.

I have lost count of the number of mk3 cortinas I’ve owned as a younger man, including a crayford convertible in Miami blue, it’s nice to see this old girl getting the VIP treatment and being brought back to life, you are doing something that I’ve always promised myself to do but have never had either the time, money or space to undertake, these days it’s more of a case of my aging carcass not wanting to underwrite my activities 😀, all the best with your restoration bud 👍😎👍

Full credit to you mate your determination it's a big job your making great progress cheers

😮

Nice job of the rear lower windscreen corner, and nice to see you got the Brand New Expressed Steel bonnet hing support panel, and the one from Robin, for the front, hope your knee is OK, and glad you had the electrical RCD to trip out when you cut the cable, and liked the out takes at the end, enjoyed the video, nice to see her progressing.

Glad your ok Shelley it’s easily done mate and scares you but no harm done thank the lord 🙏 Cortina’s looking great it’s those little intricate jobs that take the time ! People never really have a real perspective of how long these jobs take from the outside looking in but your getting there fella and it’s looking fab 👍

Brilliant stuff, well done. Brazing is not difficult, just need flux and brazing rods, last time I did it I used MAP gas as the propane just wouldn't do it, (lernt using Oxy) MAP gas got excellent results,

You had a lucky escape when you cut into the cable

Try contacting Pete C at cortina city,he’s restored a few mk3 cortina’s on KZbin.

Looking good ! You’re really making some massive progress dude nice job …l think the cat want feeding 🤣

Great to see you progressing along. Ref the issue you are having with the inner sill,is it the case that the rear end should of had a return lip at right angle which then follows the curve of the inner wheel tub ? I'm sure early on in your video there may habeen a couple of telltale recessed spot weld points where the return edge folds round and is then welded?? My mk3 escort 4 door has this little detail and where I made my own full length sills from the aftermarket short repair versions had to add it in . Just a thought but could it be the ones you have more suit a 2 door model or that the return edge wasn't added ? Express would have copied this from a new old stock item whatever it was ?? Keep up the good work - I'm one side down and hoping to start on the other outer sill this weekend if the weather holds out.

It’s crazy seeing that much rust in a mk3 corty. In Australia here they survive okay but still do rust. Going back about 2 years ago a bloke died who had a wrecking yard full of old cars. I’m talking a thousand or more,,, and amongst that were probably a dozen or so tc td / mk3 cortinas and about a doze or so mk4 and 5 cortinas, mk1 and 2 escorts 2 and 4 door sedans and probably 6-8 escort vans. All cars in various states of completeness. Most had decent bodies that you could definitely build some decent cars out of. Sadly, they, along with everything else salvageable ended up getting crushed

Excellent I really enjoyed this one. That fabrication was brill shelley, shame that inner sill was not right.

👍👍👍👍

Please stop the horible music PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE stop the horrible music.

Excellent work. Will be interesting to see on how you get on with then inner sills I’m currently doing the same job I wasn’t to sure if them ones go in from the inside but by the looks of it they do. Keep up the good work

new to the channel, been a panel beater and painter since '87, what you got planned when it comes to under coating when you get to it? something i've used a few times on big projects is the 3m sprayable 2k sealer, it comes in mix bags which is fine for small stuff but i did the entire underside of a '76 Mercedes 240 with 22 of them, expensive but gave the whole bottom side a tough rubber coating, it was then overcoated with black 2k as that was a customers car, my own ones i do same but with final colour body colour gloss, nothing sticks to it, if it does its an easy rinse off. The 3m spray sealer i now mixup several bags and use a big bore gravity gun, if you have any areas where you are worried about replicating any critical shapes like the windscreen flanges, make a template from wood, steel or aluminium to mate up past where you will be cutting so during and after you have a guide to where the edges are ment to be, really useful for curved surfaces where you can't measure every mm of it

Excellent work Shelley, really enjoyed your work in this film. The fabrication is always interesting to me to see how people aproach a certain job. Pete helped me too no small surprise and I hopefully will be back at it myself to get more work done. The idea with the blow torch is so handy I need to reshape my spare wheel well. If I had more time when I was welding my sils I wish I had treated inside and painted but I just didn't have enought time.

Hi Shelley, Thank you so much for your kind comments on my Cortina Mk3 shells restoration work, and the mention on your end credits too, very much appreciated, I think you have done very well with the inner scuttle repair, given most of it had rusted away, you did a nice job of making up the repair, and as always I loved watching the work on your beautiful 2000E, as each episode she improves so much from what you started with, the underneath looks lovely now she has been sandblasted, hand finished and painted, great work, and well worth the time and effort, and mess, and clean up after, I did a lot of sand blasting on parts for my car, and another classic I worked on at the restoration Company, and really enjoy the process, Your doing great, and I very much look forward to seeing your next video as always, all the best from Keith.

Blimey Shelly that cars in really good shape actually I was suspecting it wouldn’t be as good as that underneath it’s impressive. And so the work you’ve done looks amazing brilliant job mate. Just a suggestion and probably a stupid one but have you though of using rust converter on those places that aren’t really rusty as such just a bit of surface but you can’t get a tool to to clean it up ? Might prolong its life maybe . Super metalwork to well done shes certainly taking shape 👍

Hey where did you get the bushes for the rear axle?

@Shelly's Cortina , I presume you know of Pete C ???? @Cortina City ?? If you do , I hope Petes OK?? Hes the Cortina King !!!!!

Is there a trick to refitin front door and hinges?

Put a piece flatend copper pipe behind the hole will help with the burn thro

Time to change the wailing back music please Shelley! Something less painful to the eardrums if possible from the year of the Cortina maybe?

Well done to all who took part 👍

Well done Rob Howard and everyone else who took part!!! 👍

Fairly solid car surprisingly. You're doing a great job. My friend had a maroon 1.3 XL with a vinyl roof. He scrapped it in 1998 because of rotten sills. If only the panels were available then it would still be around but you couldn't even find something as simple as a headlight or a dash switch back then.

7:34 😧 take it it’s a small cheap mig…slow the wire speed down and try it.. may have to go up a notch on power possible.. tack as your doing but you shouldn’t get those lumps that don’t look like they penetrated the metal properly…

You can’t go forever and keep on welding the little holes in the weld up - inevitably you remove more good metal when you grind the welding back and make it thin . Seal it with epoxy primer and then fibreglass filler over before normal filler - and then epoxy over again to fully seal it