I have the same issue with my 2001 Cherokee xj. Any advice?

This did not work for my 2006 jeep grand cherokee 3.7v6 sport utility 4x4. I fixed the entire suspension now it's making a clunk noise shifting frm park to reverse and into drive. Pulling the emergency break is not doing anything. Please let me know what the issue is? I don't want to replace my cv axles if I need to replace the entire differential case or transfer....😮😢

Mine clunks when I go from park to drive

Thank you so much. You just saved me $300 or $400. Perfect troubleshooting, I was able to fix the wiper, as it was a rusty shaft. Keep up your videos. Dave

I never recommend jeep the biggest mistake I made bought jeep grand Cherokee 2012 👎😞 I never ever go with jeep

My gear was broken so i replaced it but now when i put on the xold air it's hot and when i switch it to hot its room temperature. I also replaced the blend door actuator but im still having the same issue . Any ideas what it could be?

What about the other side?,drivers side?

Thanks for this video! Just picked up a 2011 and mine was rusted worse than yours. Instructions were amazing! I opted to just replace completely but I’ll keep the old part just in case. I know it’s been a couple years but any ideas on how to fix the flipper window? Mine is locked and I can’t get it open

Thanks - this video was spot on and I was able to fix my rear windshield wiper without having to take it to the shop!

Thanks. Mines doing this.

thanks boss

Very hard to get an update if you have an older model

Hello, I am from the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. I have the same problem. My car is a 2020 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I will try this method. I hope it will work.

I have two jeeps both have this rear wiper problem ….I’ll rewatch and have a go myself …many thanks

This helped immensely! Sadly despite cleaning the rust i discovered the plastic gear had worn through, completely polished smooth. U.U another fine product by Denso... replacement is otw soon for $50! You saved me hundreds from the repair shops <3

Me and you thought of exact same idea and design! I bought a recon 120 and it didn't have the peddle system with it and i dont plan to spend the money to buy one 😂

Dude you all miss the most important part, show us how did you pull out the shaft and what was in there that we need to put back exactly like it was, how did you put the shaft back and what needed to put back in order

That’s not a fix tho. That’s just a bandaid….

Upon removal of the glovebox and panel behind it, I found my a/c blend door motor hanging. It was missing the screws to hold it on. Do you know where I can find said screws?

Sometimes the blend door inside will get to where it sticks closed and the actuator isn’t strong enough to break it free. I think it’s because there’s a rubber seal on the door that can melt sometimes and it stays sticky enough that the door apparently will get stuck when it’s closed tight on it and not be able to switch back over to cold. Easy fix for this is to use the stops on the actuator. You want the door to have slightly less travel when closing so you want it to hit the stop sooner. You could probably stick some kind of solid spacer on the stop, or drill a hole thru the ear on the gear that hits the stop and run a small screw that’ll thread into the hole you drilled into that ear. As long as you’re careful the plastic should hold the threads good enough. I guess you could tap it if ya want. Screw it all the way in at first, so the thickness of the screw head acts as your spacer. If the door still gets stuck there, back the screw out a little to give you more spacer making the door close a little less tight. Shouldn’t take much. You don’t want it to not close at all. It won’t be perfect because the door will leak some when it’s on heat, but that’s better than tearing the whole dash out and replacing the whole thing. Hope this makes sense. Cheers!

Useless info…

Please includs the part number

Mine does the opposite it's summer now, left side is cold right is hot. Does this also apply?

This works in all vehicles, not just the WK2

Good video thank you

What size is the aluminum angle. Thanks

Is there anyway you can post the part

What is that piece that moves up and down above the cabin air filter ? When it goes down its a knocking noise and i cant figure it out

What is WK2 ? Stand for ?

Thank you so much very great ,helps me to understand the removal and installation,I would like to add that during installation the gear you must have both gears in the bottom shaft and the small one on top of the plastic gear must both gears aligned properly with the arrows.

I mean the things these Jeep owners go through it's ridiculous you have to modify your life around the vehicle you purchase and pay insurance for an upkeep and all the different things that requires to have a car but you have to adapt to it in order for you to have a peace of mind it's really strange please do not buy jeeps They are no good The product is subpar at best.

Thanks for this video. Very helpful, just did the repair today on 2012 Jeep G. Ch.. I painted wiper shaft (the part above O-ring) with cold galvanizing paint after rust removal, I hope it will not rust again. Not all Made in Japan parts/assemblies are made perfect. This assembly should have double O-ring around main wiper shaft or other more robust seal, and shaft housing should be filled complete with grease, also the wiper shaft that comes above the O-ring should have better corrosion protection or made out of stainless steel. The mode of failure for this assembly is the rust from main shaft exposed to elements that is flowing down inside of main shaft housing.

Where can I get a WK2 plate like this?

My Jeep Grand Cherokee 2012, V8 5.7 is having same clunk sound but while shifting from N to D or D to N. Dealer asked me over 15000$ to change the gear box. Someone said it's shaft, someone pinion, someone saying problem with programming, someone saying it's common drive like this. It's very annoying.

Link does not work anymore

Can you shift gears in this Jeep or no

I heard that same clunk and also have my car jerk while driving until the engine is warmed up. What could that be?

Helpful video, but I wasn’t so lucky with getting the shaft out. Ended up cracking the housing. At that point it became a science experiment 😂

This is very helpfull! Thank you. Was able to replace my blend door actuator, to my surprise the gear was in good condition. Like most say the screws were T20 and not T25.

Subbed, thanks for the assistance. Just replaced my 2014 GC blend door gear on P-side, it was broken but that piece didn't fall out yet so it still must have been working. My driver side has heat all the time, so that must be the broken side. Have 137K on my GC, so if these things lasted that long, I can't complain. It was an easy fix, thanks for the video. Two gears from Amazon were $22 btw.

Like 👍 & subscribe

Great tutorial! Fixed my 2013 GCO. Truth in saying "get creative", in that that the back torx screw was a pain without the proper tool set up, didn't help with my gorilla hands ethier. Al in all easy with this video. Thanks much! 👍(hope I don't ever need to do the driver side ... ugh!)

Nice job! Suggest using marine plastic board rather than wood

This saved us!! It was t20 not t25 for 2011 but otherwise perfect.

Do you know if the part is different for RHD Jeeps?

Diff bushingsp

That's amazing and thank for the video. I have a noise comes from the right duct, it happens only on high speed over 70 miles, asking if there is someone who knows how can I fix it.

You should always use the parking brake when parked on an incline.. living in FL, I don't have that cl clunking issue cuz there's no pressure on the parking paw. When you park on an incline then the vehicles weight is solely resting on the parking paw. When I do happen to park on an incline driveway I set my parking brake before I put it in park and I never have that clunking noise issue.

Better to apply emergency brake while in neutral. Then let off the brake pedal to allow the weight of the car to transfer from pedal to emergency brake. Then once all pressure is on brake shift it to park. This allows all the weight of the car to be held by the emergency brake first, not the gear it was last in, drive or park. You will never hard shift out of park this way because when you pull the shift lever there is no pressure on the park gear. Not sure if I make sense. But putting it in park then letting go of the brake is putting most of the weight on your transmission not your brakes even if you apply e brake first. If you you ever notice your car move after letting go the brake all that energy goes somewhere doing it my way makes sure it goes to the brake not the trans. Also the dealership can perform a quick learn procedure where the computer will relearn and adapt to the worn clutches allowing to shift smoother.

This video is awesome - followed it step by step to fix my problem. Saved a bunch of $ and very satisfying! Thank you!!!