They are actually kayak roof racks. Check out our other video for details. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bJS3dKKea5Khra8si=QZIlbD9aJ_Mkm4Mp

1652 G3 with a 60/40 merc jet

Do you know what version you have? We recently improved this part of the rod holder and should not have issues. The rod holder is best on a 2 inch wading belt worn tight. While operating, brace the rod holder with your thumb.

Don't be gentle with it. Everything is super durable. Sometimes that connection gets super tight, and may even be sealed a bit by the hot glue seal for the receiver piece. The tight fit is a good thing, until you want to replace the net ha. Go ahead and give it a good twist to pop it free.

sorry, no more details or blog posts other than this. The kayak racks are just bolted on. Seadek on the seat hatch which is a fiberglass covered piece of wood. keep it simple!

It's been a year, do you like it?

@@jbeezy96 I like it. Have two more now. I use one primarily to attach to my vehicle to make setting up easier.

LOL who cares they restock all the streams every few weeks - don't be jealous

hmm well, it is quite the process. step 1. sand/grind all existing fiberglass down to raw fiberglass to get the paint off. step 2 use cardboard to make a template of the side walls that you want to have. We added them on the inside of the walls so it would extend more straight up rather than follow the outside shape of the side wall. start them at the floor of the boat. step 3. cut this template out of 3/8 inch marine plywood. given the length of the boat, it will most likely need to be 2 sheets long so try to find the best spot for the seam. Next attached the wood sidewall to the body of the gheenoe. We did this by using rivets along the bottom, there should be spots where there is a double side wall with a cavity in between. Do not put a rivet through to the exterior of the boat, at the bottom. Then at the top we went straight through the plywood and existing boat wall with Chicago style bolts or sex screws. this just keeps it as flush as possible on both sides since they will be exposed. Last wrap the entire thing in fiberglass. I would recommend going all the way down the side around to the bottom of the boat, if not wrapping the entire bottom as well. make sure to cover the inside completely with fiberglass as well. We finished it with some wood trim to create a gunwale. Gunwale kits can be purchased although they are pricey. Last sand and paint. This was a lot, I hope it helps. If you have more questions, let me know. possibly just talking through the process on the phone may be easier. good luck.

@@oprosfishing thanks for the detailed response! I’ll let you know as the process gets started if I have any questions

Totally agree, live and you learn. no gloves. Happy to hear you like the product! We have launched a new version that is even better! kzbin.info/www/bejne/r2fckq2ChaeDb7s

@@oprosfishing Awesome to hear. That locking mechanism looks great. Will definitely be grabbing one soon.

Sorry to hear about the issue. We designed the rod holder to fit standard cork handles and over 90% of them fit great. We personally use this with 2wt rods all the way up to 12 wts. There should be enough bend in the rod holder hooks to accommodate larger cork handles.

Very nice! Yes I will see what I can do. The jack plate is 3 pieces of 3/4" marine plywood glued together. Several layers of varnish then bolted on aluminum angle on either side. The aluminum angle mounts to 2 aluminum angle bolted to the boat transom. Several holes spaced evenly on the aluminum helps adjust up or down if needed.

Just watched the video again. Looks like only 2 sheets of plywood actually.

Awesome to hear about the project! I hope it turns out well for you. The anchor and oars are both budget options that work. Typically run a 15lb river anchor on this using a locking anchor roller. The oars are either 6 or 7 feet. Check out some videos on proper oar length to help choose the correct length for your boat. Anchor roller: www.cabelas.com/shop/en/bass-pro-shops-locking-anchor-control-system?ds_e=GOOGLE&ds_c=Shop%7CCAB%7CTopPerformers%7CBoating&gclid=CjwKCAiAzrWOBhBjEiwAq85QZ48ETZcF-bYOz7JDNva9Ba1LEaEaMZbT2rurBeBRYLtehoJicHQeiRoCFSYQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Oars: www.cabelas.com/shop/en/crooked-creek-aluminum-synthetic-oar-with-grip?ds_e=GOOGLE&ds_c=Shop%7CGeneric%7CAllProducts%7CHigh%7CSSCCatchAll&gclid=CjwKCAiAzrWOBhBjEiwAq85QZ2JqlQ0GHV33bpyZBoLmOmK-6ZE-ybZznRgw0KZcKZJCWyYIE2AxERoC-JcQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

It does not. The rod holder hooks flex enough to be gentle on the cork and still hold secure.

@@oprosfishing 👍🏻

not sure if you are serious or just kidding? Do you like the boat?

Thanks, this is true. We would be excited to see your canoe build!

Awesome! Glad the video helped someone out. I hope your repairs went well and it is better then ever.

This will work with spinning rods as well!

haha there are definitely not too many. I know of 1 other one in the Milwaukee area.

That is a knockoff of our product, unfortunately. They stole the product and our content to sell it.

nothing really special in materials since it is a small diy project boat. Bondo fiberglass resin, the cloth was from back when we originally built it so I am not sure of the specifics, other than a medium weight biaxial and reustoleum marine coating paint.

Thank you