Every rivet and bonding should come with the panels..shouldn’t have to chase them down…they know you can’t properly repair the areas without them…same thing goes for the radiator supports on Silverados..all of the brackets and rivets and bond should all come together

Whats the wire alloy type ? Al-mn or Al-mg? Anyoy?

You can only get the tool ito about half of the places on a Panel

so wrong

These tools are just too expensive I can only see the shop buying these tools, techs in this industry are already inundated with buying their own tools investing 30k+ to only make a median salary at say the local caliber 50-65k after taxes

Where would I get the this front railing at

What are you using to drill out the rivets in areas that you can’t use the extractor tool?

Esta bien la herramienta pero el precio es muy exagerado para mi es mucho mejor un kit de 400 dollars manual que pagar miles de dólares por esa pistola ya que Stan como snap on tools precios muy exagerados

? Why not grind them out with belt sander since your replacing panel. The reason why I ask is that I’m in the market of buying one and not sure if I should go pro spot battery pack or air spr gun. So what seams to be the problem is that it’s not doing what it’s says it’s supposed to do.

What a nightmare!

How did you remove the flush rivets on the old rail? Finding it impossible to drill them out.

Does anyone have the ford collision proceedure for 2009-2014 f150 upper fender rails. Im told that you need to completely remove the dashboard to get to it. also no collision body shops will take the job everyone says its too much labor.. I have no problems doing it myself I just need the proceedure and right stuff. I have the upper fender rail oem replacement from ford., rivets, tools etc. I just need the proceedure, what type of 3m adhesive to replace and the plastic caps on it. thx. btw I took all the bolts screws etc off the dashboard unhooked everything and double checking before I have two friends remove it for me and lay it in the rear of the crew.

Can the upper rivets be reversed so that they are flush from the inside of the engine compartment? The video doesn't show how far the blind rivets stick out on the other side and if this would be a problem for engine bay components under the hood...

I leave them old rivets in just grind the rivets like you would a spot weld pinch it right next to the old one and I use the blind rivets where I can’t get the tool in they tell you not to use the Sprs. In the wheel house I do haven’t cracked one yet

i have a question, i have notice that when the B pillar is replaced it does not get replaced from the very top, is there a reason why? thank you.

If it gets the spr through the first two layers. Can you not use a seam buster to separate the outer panel you're replacing?

I stopped watching when I saw 'Mr.Expert' using a steel hammer.....

Great job!

I think you made 23 of 24 the last one just to drive people like me nuts. Just put 24 of 24 up with a picture of your sign to make everyone feel a sense of completion. 😀

What a complete waste of time and money. get a drill bit

Where did you purchase new longer die?

Thanks.good job. Is that an expensive welder .?

I've seen it done that way, in some areas you can't even use the Hebrob tool. Like the back of the cab corner where it meets the rear panel and filler piece when we replace those rivets we use what they're calling blind rivets which look like regular pop rivets kinda ugly in my opinion but that's what they want same goes for the front of the bedside to the headboard.

Nice repair! Actually watched all 24 segments. The remaining black foam leftover along the joint behind the front fender expandable foam baffle (shown @ 0:56). What foam is this? Is this an expandable flexible foam or a NVH sealer?

what kind of welder do you use

Is there a part number for rivets? Do they have to be purchased from Ford?

Hey guys. These videos are all good and informative, but how about a video on removal and replacement of the outer door panel skin on a 2017 Ford pickup? This is a VERY common 'attempted' replacement part that VERY few people can seem to get correct!

Parabéns a camionete ficou perfeita,acompanhei o trabalho através dos vídeos.Sou funileiro aki no Brasil,mas vcs não querem me contratar ?

what a piece of junk.

Your shop is a credit to our industry. I hope ICAR and the insurance company's see this and realize how difficult aluminum repair can be.

Can you imagine what all the hack shops are going to do to these trucks? More power to you, if you can make money fixing these trucks. Ford should restrict part sales to qualified shops.

The BMW and Audi rivet guns have similar problems. If you miss a piece of the rivet in the anvil its bad news. Takes forever to get new parts from the Germans. I have been waiting to a see real world F150 repair. Nice work, thanks for the video.

What was your labor rate on this job? I sure hope you got at least $110.00 hr.