I honestly cannot remember . But it was the exact name brand and part number that was stamped on the oe part.

​Thanks for responding. I just swapped out the draft inducer on my furnace. Your video helped.

You're welcome. Thanks for the input.

As far as I know, if it is a 3.8 L it is the same. (But I wouldn't swear to it)

i reuse it a couple of times (3 uses). If you aren't leaking, then I don't necessarily see a need. But an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. It is recommended to change them each time, however. Let's face it... I change my own oil because I am cheap, so if I can stretch out the use of it, I will. Thanks for the comment.

@@ericbleueldoesstuff9152 Makes sense. I ended up getting some anyways because whoever did the oil last time gave it the ole impact treatment and the old gasket was wrecked. Ordered some off amazon and it seems fine. Just finished changing. Hopefully all goes well. I did however find a few posts in the mazda2 and yaris community stating that the 4.4 qts recomendation is without the filter and the filter holds the other .6 of the oil. I used the 5 and the line is pretty much right at the top of the full hole in the dipstick. Think its good? Thanks alot for the video!

junk yard

I'm no expert, but i would use something like WD40 or PB Blaster. I also recommend a 6 point socket over a 12 point. The screws are very short and very fine thread. You'll notice that each screw made a snap sound as it cracked loose. I can't imagine it being too tight for a small 1/4" drive ratchet . I wish I had something better to tell you. Good luck, and thanks for watching.

Yes, I love mine (about 160k miles). Leaking oil some, but runs like a scalded dog.

@@ericbleueldoesstuff9152 excellent discounted parts at rockauto. they have a transmission pan with drain plug for the 2003, not sure about other years

good luck

You can if the holes line up. If not, and make new holes, be sure to cover existing holes. Have fun.

www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_dkr=1&iconV2Request=true&_blrs=recall_filtering&_ssn=dz-speedy&store_cat=0&store_name=dzspeedy&_oac=1&_nkw=2002+ford+windstar

I couldn't tell you. Exact fit OEM part. Maybe there is one inside.

It's a variable speed motor / controller, no capacitor on the motor

I don't see capacitor on my motor either, motor is free by hand and smooth, but doesn't run when signaled to.

I purchased an air pressure switch at the same time as it was my understanding that the two parts work together, but keep in mind that I am not an HVAC repair man. I had my problem diagnosed by a pro then did the work myself. Good luck.

@@ericbleueldoesstuff9152 Thank you.I am also doing the same. I got a quote from a pro which is twice more than what you got !. I ordered a pressure switch as well and I will update.This video provided the motivation I needed. Thanks

you'll have holes in your deck lid, but if you have a means of covering those then go right ahead. Thanks for watching

I've had some success using allen in torx bolts, but I've never used an allen on something that is as tight as a seatbelt . That said, 23 mm can't be right. Thats 2.3 cm which is close to an inch. I've seen seatbelt torx-head bolts that use a T-50 bit where they mount to the floor or top of shoulder strap. If 23mm was a typo and you meant 2.3mm, that would be equivalent to a T-8 bit and pretty low torque so an allen key would probably be ok in a pinch, but be prepared for damage to the screw or tool. I hope that helps.

@@ericbleueldoesstuff9152 Thanks for the reply. I cannot type a link. But you can google this product. Screw. Seat Belt Lap And Shoulder Belt Bolt - M10 X 23mm. It is the seatbelt buckle torx bolt. I am somewhat puzzled with this 23 mm as well.

23mm is the length. you would be wise to buy a proper sized torx bit for that. good luck with your project @@centscents

@@ericbleueldoesstuff9152 Ha Ha. Good point. Appreciate your help. Nice video.

Just did the replacement this weekend. T50 is the size of the bolt. Thanks.

That is right. All were changed, but found that not to be the issue here. It was an unexpected education for me to learn that some versions go through the cluster. I appreciate your input. Thanks for watching.

www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_dkr=1&iconV2Request=true&_blrs=recall_filtering&_ssn=dz-speedy&store_cat=0&store_name=dzspeedy&_oac=1&_nkw=2002%20ford%20windstar

Yeah, you know how it is. You've got to work with what you've got.

should be snug. check your o-ring

If you think that is impressive, you should check out the version I posted with the audio corrected. lol Thanks for watching.

Thanks for your comment. My goal is always to be as short and to the point as possible.

@@ericbleueldoesstuff9152 NP, I really find your approach refreshing. I'd like to add a tip for people who bother to read the comment section. Plastic parts are extremely unforgiving to overtightening. When my son and I followed your steps to replace the burnt out beam, we found that the previous owner (or perhaps a shop mechanic) had cracked one of the plastic bolt holes. My tip is to opt for undersized tools, especially when working with plastic parts. For example, a 1/4 ratchet handle will give you a much more sensitive feel for tightness than a 3/8 ratchet handle. It only needs to be snug on these plastic assemblies. Thanks again!

imgs.search.brave.com/FQV2ZoA8dGKFmr8ULmo4knNQJkx6s8te3mZH4xYEz-o/rs:fit:1200:1200:1/g:ce/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIu/anVzdGFuc3dlci5j/b20vdXBsb2Fkcy9n/b29kd3JlbmNoOTEy/NC8yMDA5LTExLTI1/XzAxMjAwN19wY3Zf/dHViZS5naWY.gif

It’s inside the valve cover and can’t be serviced

I did later. lol Didn't have what I needed at the time, but wanted the heat on. Thanks for the comment.

@@ericbleueldoesstuff9152 Where did you find the gasket sold individually? I've got an XV-90 75K furnace that's going to need one.

@@rhymereason3449 for my purposes, I used silicone /rtv. works fine so far.

@@ericbleueldoesstuff9152 OK... thanks for the input... I thought you might have found a source for just the gasket.

Yeah, The new old stock part was actually a few dollars cheaper than used. Glad you found it helpful.

Not necessarily, but its my understanding that a stuck valve can cause leaks all over, and burning oil. Its easy to check if pcv is working. Shake it and it should rattle freely. On older type systems that have pcv attached to a tube/hose , you can pull it out with the engine running and feel vacuum on the opening of the valve. Its a cheap part and if you're unsure, 50k to 60k miles might consider changing . Lots of differing opinions on that.

@@ericbleueldoesstuff9152 160k probably a good idea to change it . I have a 2007 Pontiac Grand Prix. 3.8 series 3 . I liked your video, thank you very much

Who gives a shit?

the new GM is chinese parts assembled by yankee druggies and bought by MAGA crazies... america has gone down the toilet.

Did someone say we don’t like Chinese junk in our cars?

I wouldn't know, for sure. Perhaps I would try sliding a small, curved pick in the hole beside the driver and bit, and attempt to pry/pull upwards while unscrewing. Those picks are super cheap so maybe grind the tip off a 90 degree one, to fit in there. Good luck.

Bolt extractor (Irwin)

A giant sledge then go to junkyard buy new panel