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@Seaofjitsu Күн бұрын
Freaking Boss level 💯
@Seaofjitsu Күн бұрын
Amazing vid 🎉 Delrin benchy is boss 😮 you Jammed your PP in the extruder and it was soooooo long lol How did it fit in here 😅
@osamaomoregbe1504 6 күн бұрын
Hi, I recently bought a Lenovo Yoga Book 9i with dual screens, and since there isn't a case available for it, I'd like to design a unique case. Before diving into an ambitious design, I want to start with a simple protective case. I need some advice on measuring the dimensions of my laptop accurately. I tried scanning an image of the laptop, then cropping and resizing the image to convert it from PNG to OBJ, but it didn't go as planned. What is the best way to measure my laptop for this purpose? Additionally, I am planning to 3D print the case using SainSmart TPU 95A. Can you provide guidance on how to proceed with the measurements and 3D printing?
@diypro3d 6 күн бұрын
Hello,it s a voronkiller ?
@gordparrott9640 7 күн бұрын
Thanks. Nice job. And thanks for the stabilizers too. I'm cutting them now. Maybe you are the guy that could come up with a push style clamp for the warped boards???
@juxnxtreme 8 күн бұрын
This is one of the greatest reviews I've seen. Thank you! Also I'll appreciate if you could give me a couple of recommendations for mesh mixer tutorials or channels to follow. Thanks again
@SeanLumly 9 күн бұрын
I think that chemical adhesion has its limits for parts sticking to beds and can be annoyingly temperamental. I'm surprised that more mechanical solutions haven't been explored -- ie. special base layer that can be clipped, or fastened to a surface for a perfect, heat-free "adhesion" to the build plate.
@Drewsky8703 9 күн бұрын
Like you said -Ditch those slats and use a honeycomb bed. The blade slats were a “cool” idea but in reality the honeycomb provides the much needed stability. I’m still dialing in my settings for deep relief 3D greyscale engravings and almost there :) I’m still very happy and impressed with the Falcon 2 Pro and its capabilities. Cheers
@julieta203 11 күн бұрын
its actually the most impressive of all the filaments i had no idea it was this flexible and strong
@Daytona60146 12 күн бұрын
Marking spray has silica in it. You are basically putting a ceramic coating in when it heats it. The stuff is permanent and lasts travel to space. NASA uses it. If you can rub it off or remove it chemically you didn't get it hot enough. I've worked with cermark a lot it's great when used right. Just dial in the settings. Tempra paint and glass let's you do engraving in clear glass. I made a video on it a few years back. These machines are coming along but I'm still convinced co2 is the only way to go. Thanks for a great review.
@ObsessiveEngineering 11 күн бұрын
Good to know! I rubbed it pretty hard and you can see that there was still quite a bit of unaltered squares left in the lower right corner where the most laser energy went into the markings. I assumed that it would come off eventually too, but maybe not. I will add this knowledge to my toolbox: cermark + aluminum + diode can work! I haven't spent that much time with lasers, most of my time has been 3D printing and CNC machining. If I were to get another one, I would definitely want to go CO2 so I can do acrylics. But for the price, I can live with the limitations of this machine, and the diode laser still achieves plenty of accuracy and reliability on things it does cut/engrave. Thanks for watching!
@Daytona60146 11 күн бұрын
@@ObsessiveEngineering Yeah, for the price really can't beat it. Few issues but as you pointed out easy to get around.
@Todestelzer 12 күн бұрын
You can’t measure a 3d print to see the accuracy of a 3d scanner. 3d printing has around 0.2mm tolerance and the material will shrink depending on the geometry too.
@ObsessiveEngineering 12 күн бұрын
You're right that there is additional error introduced by the printing process, on top of model error. It's possible that the error in the model was actually slightly more or slightly less than what I measured. However, I have calibrated that printer pretty rigorously, and I know it prints approx within 0.1-0.2mm of what I design. Even at max printing error, I think that the results I measured are still very favorable for this budget 3d scanner. I also know to scale up to 100.5% when printing with ABS, but I generally don't need model scaling with PLA or PETG. So, you're not wrong, I'm just on top of that, because I built that printer myself and gone to great lengths to figure out it's tolerances. Thanks for watching!
@ThantiK 14 күн бұрын
I mean, I bought a 40w K40 for $400. And it can cut/engrave far better than this thing. I spent another $300 putting it into a frame that ended up giving me a 16"x12" volume to work with, and I'm still cheaper and more capable than this.
@ObsessiveEngineering 11 күн бұрын
Unfortunately, I don't have a ton of experience with consumer laser engravers, so I may not be the best person to debate this with you. I will say I'm surprised to see so many inexpensive 40W CO2 lasers out there. But it sounds like you ultimately ended up with a DIY laser machine build, which of course is going to lean cheaper. The Falcon2 required some assembly, but it's a complete machine. I wouldn't call it a DIY machine. It looks like the key differences are (at least compared to the OMTECH k40-based machine): * Falcon2's 22W can cut up to 10mm wood (20mm for 40W). K40 claims only 3mm cutting depth (probably really short depth of focus). I'm not 100% on this point thought * Integrated overhead camera in the Falcon2. * You say you put your laser into a frame, does it include the eye-safe panels? Is it "really" safe & sealed? Is it "really" enclosed so it's easy to vent? * There's a lot of safety features on the Falcon2 Pro -- particularly the door sensor that turns off the laser and pauses it when opened. Also, the e-stop button on the front, and the fire and lens obstruction detection directly on the laser module. * The volume on the Falcon2 is a bit more generous. I'm not trying to bash your system by any means, just pointing out that I believe there is an actual value proposition behind the Falcon2, as a mid-range laser option. You might be right to argue that it's still too expensive, but I'd argue it's not excessively overpriced. I also see plenty of CO2-based machines that cost way more.
@Karaon 17 күн бұрын
top class video, much appreciated. Building a CNC myself right now but I am using the approach which u see in onefinity. I use 4 pcs 1100 mm 40 mm solid rod linear rods for Y axis and 1700 mm of the same for the gantry. Not sure about the Z axis at the moment but it's pretty straightforward. I'll add a laser as well and possibly some other attachments but not sure. It will run on rootCNC, a grbl based solution and the motors for all all axes with encoders, to make it more reliable I hope. The movement is done with 2 x 16/10 ballscrews on Y and 1 x 16/10 on the X axis. The base and gantry will prob be printed for the beginnig or made of some plywood but when I'm confident it works it will be replaced with solid steel and/or some epoxygranite cast parts. We'll see. Have some fun time on that beast you built man!
@alfainc5868 18 күн бұрын
Any update?
@SeanLumly 21 күн бұрын
Printing gears in TPU is an INCREDIBLE idea. Well done. In fact, the flexibility may outlive ridged gears in environments where sand and dust can work themselves into the mechanism: it may be possible to leave them exposed (provided no fingers or large objects can reach), reducing the need for enclosure. And modifying thickness may be an effective strategy at increasing load capacity. Cleverly integrated capillaries may even make these self oiling as well! Silent, durable, and flexible (eg. sand/dust pass through teeth).
@Fauxreigner 21 күн бұрын
What is that alternative lead screw coupler you switched to?
@ObsessiveEngineering 19 күн бұрын
I believe it's called a "flexible jaw coupling". Here's one listing on Amazon amzn.to/3UZYM9H
@karl458 25 күн бұрын
definitely not enough credits for the science you're doing there. I'm looking forward to build my mpcnc and will include your upgrades for sure!
@lordhexon Ай бұрын
Did you end up adding the second extruder ? How did that work out, second extruder for soluble material support definitely worth adding.
@ObsessiveEngineering Ай бұрын
I never did. This printer ended up being my workhorse, and I never wanted to put it out of commission long enough to try that. It also was kind of an experimental upgrade in the community. At this point, if I'll probably just build a V-core-4 which has a native IDEX option. I plan to use it primarily for support materials, but also for duplicating/mirroring to print multiple parts at once.
@greengranolaguy Ай бұрын
Nice upgrades! What Kobalt router model are you using? Reason why I ask is because I have a Kobalt router and was hoping to commandeer it for my build, but always thought it was too heavy. Would be cool to know if it’s the same as yours.
@ObsessiveEngineering Ай бұрын
I bought this one directly from Lowes. Read the linked article, apparently designed in coordination with the MPCNC guy. Only $100, and I'm m extremely happy with it so far. I've probably done 50 hrs with it. www.v1e.com/blogs/news/kobalt-router-featuring-the-lr3
@zackj997 Ай бұрын
This is an incredible video that makes everything so clear to understand.
@NoMoreBsPlease Ай бұрын
$600 for THAT? You have to be kidding!
@ihatepokemonthings Ай бұрын
Ali has cheap ballscrew for Z the lead screw mod , All the cheap rails I've bought have had sworf in the bearing channels oil bath and blast of air
@ObsessiveEngineering Ай бұрын
So far I've been super happy with this rail. I don't know if it lives up to normal HGR15 specs, but it's working. It doesn't move quite as smoothly as I would expect, almost like it has some pre-load, but it's minimal. Most importantly, it does move smoothly, andall the play between the core and those cross rails are gone.
@design8studio Ай бұрын
Nice! Great job.
@design8studio Ай бұрын
Nice. 🙂
@thijstriemstra Ай бұрын
do you lose any z-height with the 3d printed backlash thing? do you need a different size leadscrew?
@ObsessiveEngineering Ай бұрын
At first I thought I would lose some Z-height but because of the geometry of the machine, the core never has a reason to travel low enough to interfere with it. So it turned out to be a compromise-free upgrade. It's just two TR8 leadscrew nuts instead of one. So nothing changes about the lead screw, though I did switch to a new one (of the same size), simply because i assumed the old one was worn down based on that original backlash. Thanks for watching!
@thijstriemstra Ай бұрын
thanks for the details. I’ll give it a try a soon as i have some abs that matches my mpcnc color. did you ever get any feedback from the mpcnc team on this mod? this whole backlash thing seems intentional or an oversight?
@mikejones-vd3fg Ай бұрын
Nice breakdown of TPU. Have you tried TPR? Its made for the atomstack cambrian, a rubber filament. Its flexible like TPU but grippy like rubber. I wanted to get one here localy as my first 3d printer and sort of regret it because it came with like 6 rolls of the TRP filament which is expensive, but there wasnt any satisfying reviews on it so i passed it up. I wish we could get a real review on it. You should reach out to atomstack maybe they'll send you one.
@bigtexuntex7825 Ай бұрын
Don't run your 5v off of boosted 12v... Each buck/boost you go through requires some heat dissipation. Heat dissipation is stored electricity being thrown away as waste. Run the 5v buck off of your main power bus. What you designed here will work, especially if your loads are low. BUT if you want the most power from your battery, the last thing you want to do is over-process your power. And depebding on your BCM, it might be better for both the 5v and 12v boards connect directly to the battery and not go through the bcm. That depends on if you are going to use more power while on line power, or battery power. Generally speaking, boost is less efficient than buck, but neither are 100%. Efficiency is the inverse measure of how much power you loose to heat, and each loss is added to the other losses. In your battery circuits, if something is getting hot, you are throwing power away. Don't throw power away. If each circuit looses 10%, then going through 3 means almost a third of your power will never make it to the thing you are powering. Batteries lose a third of their capacity, not what you want for batteries already in a used state. And if a power device says 97% efficient, that is usually a weighted lie, it will be 97% in a very specific range of voltages and currents, it can drop to 10% efficiency if you are too far outside of the "sweet spot" it was designed for, thus throwing away 90% of your battery power. And put in some filter caps, as those buck/boost devices produce high frequency artifacts. And they can burn each other up if one units artifacts are destructive to the other device. You need some high frequency caps to absorb some of the noise, and some large high-value caps to store energy. Caps take up a lot of space, the maker of the buck/boost is not going to do it for you because they want small cheap boards. Also keep in mind that each board has a limit to how much power it can handle, so a board moving power for another board is also wasting capacity. AND a buck/boost board is turning on and off at a high frequency to do the power conversion. So if you measure a board at a half amp, what it might actually be doing is switching from 0 amps to 25 amps over and over in a way to average .5 amps. Your volt meter may not see the 25amp spikes, but the upstream electronics WILL if you don't put the right filter capacitors in place. If you want to see the 25 amp spikes, you much learn to measure power with an oscilloscope. I got my oscilloscope training when I was 3, explaining how I could handle 120v mains connections when I was 6. Most people don't get to play with oscilloscopes, but seeing the signals has a lot to do with how much you learn from the doing. II learned to build power supplied when I was 6, in 1968. We didn't have buck/boost boards we could buy inexpensively, back then... but now that I have 56 years experience, inefficient designs kind of jump out at me... While I was critical, my goal is to be helpful.
@ObsessiveEngineering Ай бұрын
Thank you for the electronics lesson (seriously). At the time I made this video, my electronics skills were still pretty elementary, enough to hack this kind of stuff together, in a way that superficially works. Since then, I have created many systems, particularly ones using motor drivers and other voltage regulators, usually using a small and a large capacitor for that high- and low-freq filtering as you mentioned. As for chaining them together, the reason I didn't want to run the 5V directly off the battery was that typically they recommend having 2-3V headroom for the buck'ing. Since the battery runs with a nominal 7.4V, and could drop to 6V at the lower charge levels, I thought it might not be "safe" to run 5V directly from it. Having 12V starting point for the 5V buck would be safer--in theory. But as you've pointed out, there are potential issues with this, which I liken to the way the light dimmer switches interact poorly with LED lights. I avoided that fate here, but I imagine other combinations of voltages, or maybe even brands of regulators might not work out.
@EilikHatesUTTP Ай бұрын
its so cool
@RoboArc Ай бұрын
Where is all my GRBL 5x users at 😂
@noanyobiseniss7462 Ай бұрын
You should go back and edit any corrections into your videos with a text comment overlay as most good utubbers do.
@leroycasterline1122 Ай бұрын
If you were to do this over today, would you wait for V-Core 4.0?
@ObsessiveEngineering Ай бұрын
Based on what I've seen of the V-Core-4 -- absolutely. It looks like it's an improvement all around. Build complexity, kit completeness (incl electronics), a lot more metal components, beacon probe, and has the IDEX (dual-extruders) as a primary build option. I decided if I ever get another printer, it has to be IDEX. I would love to build a V-Core-4 myself, but recently added a CNC router and laser cutter/engraver to our mess here. Wife approval is unlikely unless I promise to get rid of 2 other machines...
@leroycasterline1122 Ай бұрын
@@ObsessiveEngineering Thanks, I'm on the list. I was considering a tool changer rather than IDEX on the off-chance I'd need two materials plus support. What do you think? Do you use an inductive probe (Beacon)? If so, how does it work? I've heard inductive probes have repeatability issues at temp.
@ObsessiveEngineering Ай бұрын
@@leroycasterline1122 Re: IDEX vs tool-changer -- Toolchangers come with a whole class of extra complexities. I'm going to guess that's why we don't see many printers using it. IDEX isn't trivial either, but at least for the RR, it appears to be a first-class feature now. I also doubt I would personally use 2 materials + support, but that's just me. If you think you might you could consider ROME, which is a side project in the RR community by Helge Keck, for using two filaments per extruder with an extra motor and Y-shaped feed port. I don't know how mature it is, but it's an option. Re Probe: I switched from SuperPINDA to the Euclid dockable probe, because I try a lot of different build surfaces and I needed something that measures the physical top, not the metallic substrate some mm below it. I've had some issues with it but it generally works. I feel like I had some minor issues with the SuperPINDA at temp, but it's been so long I can't say for sure. Beacon is a different beast though, I'm not sure if you can extrapolate to that. Obvs I'm not the person to ask though :)
@leroycasterline1122 Ай бұрын
@@ObsessiveEngineering Thank you for your expertise! I've filled out the rez form for a V-Core 4 500. I ordered an Octopus Max EZ, I hope I shouldn't have asked you first!
@leroycasterline1122 Ай бұрын
@@ObsessiveEngineering Well, 3 materials isn't something I'd use often. I suppose if I bought the IDEX kit when it's available, I'd be able to repurpose the 2nd tool. I'm not interested in a toolchanger if I'd have to remove it for high quality prints! Perhaps if I find I *need* one, a Prusa XL would be in order?
@Prof.Polymath Ай бұрын
I didn’t think you could scan reflective objects?
@ObsessiveEngineering Ай бұрын
Yeah they claim that you can with this scanner. I don't think I really settled the question in my testing, but it did achieve some level of tracking on that metal 123 block.
@tballew Ай бұрын
bro, where's part 2?
@ObsessiveEngineering Ай бұрын
I got distracted with other content. But part 2 is like 70% done, and I have all the footage and data already collected for all 4 parts. I'll get there... eventually. Thanks for watching!
@antonkukoba3378 Ай бұрын
The blobing and stringing at 11:03 is not because of moisture. It is because of retraction settings.
@ObsessiveEngineering Ай бұрын
Maybe! I've printed a LOT of TPU over the years and by far the most significant factor is moisture. After this video, I realized I was using PLA settings which may not be aggressive enough to get it dry. I have seen mixed guidance on retraction settings-- most say to disable retraction, and I usually turn retraction off and print slow, but even when I leave it on by accident it usually turns out okay. If it looks like this, it will look 90% better after drying it properly (55C for 6-8 hrs). I didn't think retraction settings are a settled matter, but TPU's moisture absorption is.
@johnbeima6413 Ай бұрын
CAREFULL what you call this. The project owners threatened to take legal action against Thomas S. for an enhanced part he did and offered via Open Source.
@ObsessiveEngineering Ай бұрын
Thanks for the warning. I heard about that saga and have mixed feelings about it. But worst case I'll change the title and take down the model for the linear rail mod. That said, i did post about the video in the V1E forums and he hasn't said anything so I might be safe 🤞
@allted Ай бұрын
Just want to chime in here, that is not true at all. I use a share-alike license, I asked Tom to change his license to comply. He said no, we gave each other our point of view. He still said no, that is how it ended between us. Neither person threatened anything. No hard feelings even.
@allted Ай бұрын
@@ObsessiveEngineering Your parts your choice, I have no issue with mods. You have been in the forums for a long time, I am sure you know that.
@johnbeima6413 Ай бұрын
@@allted I don't think you are being as open as you would like us to think. After your conversation, Thomas did an entire video on DISASSEMBLING the MPCNC and shared his displeasure with the chats with you. We can tag that video here, so everyone can watch him take it apart and get their opinions. I think you may be being disingenuous about this, again that is my take on it. I would invite everyone to watch it and formulate their own positions.
@ObsessiveEngineering Ай бұрын
(EDIT: I'm not aiming directly at any particular post in this thread, but simply addressing the high-intensity opinions I see about this everywhere else) I didn't really follow the saga very closely. As always, the internet is full of people exaggerating or reading exaggerated viewpoints on things and feeling strongly about them based on personal factors. I try to give each side benefit of the doubt, and I'm not going to take any purist views. @allted put his time and effort into the MPCNC, and makes money from it, as is his right to do. He never claimed it was open-source, just a freely-available set of files and instructions, which helps the community (even if not fully open-source), and also funnels people to his shop. As a source of income he wants to try to protect it. It's tough to do that in an consumer industry where open-source is kind of the baseline, especially for a DIY project. But that doesn't make it wrong. If you release things (semi-)publicly without a strong grip/claim/license on them, and refuse to publicly defend against people overstepping, the courts won't help you recover your intellectual property (IP) in the future. You kinda have to stand your ground or you just bleed out over time (in a legal sense). It's not fun to end up doing that publicly in a community like this, but it's kinda necessary to simply maintain the baseline stated from the beginning. And it's a mode of operation that many people don't understand, and don't want to simply because it's not "fully open". I'm sympathetic to the whole thing on both sides. It's not fully open-source, so some people will never like it, and others will simply think less of it. I think @allted has accepted that's the tradeoff for protecting his design and his income source around it. I would just hope that people could understand that in perspective, rather than trashing the whole thing because it doesn't conform to purist open-source ideals.
@bigcheesedog2645 Ай бұрын
Did you use the standard PI image that has octoprint and cnc.js (I have that set up currently) from V1, there also seemed to be a question if the CNC.js was still an active project. I am just about to make chips with my mpcnc so I am at the suck end of the learning curve.
@ObsessiveEngineering Ай бұрын
I did not use a canned RPi image. I used the basic raspberry pi OS and manually installed CNC.js on it. I'm very experienced with Linux and RPi, I didn't even look if there was a preconfigured one. Given my Linux experience, I was actually going to do LinuxCNC, but it requires a computer with a parallel port, and that just wasn't with the effort for me.
@richard_westerlaken Ай бұрын
Hi, I recently purchased cr scanner ferret se, I want to connect it to my Android phone, what do I need to do so, I succeed to connect with the extra USB adapter but when I start to scan, it disconnects. I think it is missing adaptieve power. Please help.
@ObsessiveEngineering Ай бұрын
It's been a while since I used it (and dont have it with me) but I'm pretty sure there is a separate power cord for the scanner. The phone alone cannot provide enough power to run the scanner. If you have the same version as me, it comes with a tripod that has a built-in rechargeable battery that can charge your phone and power the scanner at the same time. The instructions show the different wiring setups
@davidbutcher6637 Ай бұрын
Also the cable rail in the middle is there an stl to print this ?
@davidbutcher6637 Ай бұрын
Hi will be starting the build on self sourced parts and was wondering what gauge of wires are used electrics ? apart from the motors as you can buy that loom off ratrig
@H34... Ай бұрын
For cutting aluminium you'd get a lot more gain by replacing that router with a proper spindle that can achieve much lower RPMs. It'll also probably be a fair bit quieter too.
@ObsessiveEngineering Ай бұрын
I'm not sure about that, but check my logic: X and Y axes are moved only by two NEMA 17 motors each, which aren't very strong. The frame is also not super rigid by most CNC machine design standards (though I obviously made it a bit stronger through these upgrades). The entire thing runs on a single 48W power supply. Through experimentation, I can confirm that I can't push the feeds and speeds with much further without occasionally suffering skipped steps. OTOH, the router I have on there is 600W. By running high RPMs and surface speed, I'm essentially shifting much of the cutting stresses from the XY motors and frame rigidity, into the spindle motor. The faster it spins, the less force I need from the motors and the less frame deflection I get. Even though the chips aren't huge, it's not dust either, which means I'm not being (totally) irresponsible with feeds and speeds, I just have to stick with single-flute carbide cutters. Slower RPMs and larger chips would probably be ideal, but I'm not sure the machine can take it. Also, this is a budget machine, and a functional router for $100 is pretty good value. If I ever decide to build a beefier/sturdier/expensiver machine (PrintNC? RatRig mill?) I'll invest in a more professional spindle.
@forsakenrider Ай бұрын
Because of this video I am going to build an MPCNC! What is the cutting area of yours?
@ObsessiveEngineering Ай бұрын
The work area is about 17"x13" (and 3" Z-travel). My modifications with the linear rails would've reduced that slightly, but I made the base new base a bit bigger to compensate.
@electronicsandewastescrapp7384 Ай бұрын
uhh... do some research first. Aluminum extrusion vrail is cheap and easy to find and builds are much more rigid. the MPCNC is a fairly old project that I simply do not see recommended anymore.
@ObsessiveEngineering Ай бұрын
@@electronicsandewastescrapp7384 I would argue that it's a relevant project, but if your primary goal is DIY + cutting aluminum, I would lean towards PrintNC, though I don't have experience with it. I would promote MPCNC if you primarily want to cut wood and would like to be able to cut aluminum occasionally. The extra money I put into this upgrade was a great experience but I might've been better off starting with PrintNC now that I am focused on aluminum cutting. Obviously I made it work, though, and the whole system works way better than I otherwise would've expected
@Raytenecks Ай бұрын
@@electronicsandewastescrapp7384 Additionally, the max cutting dimensions on the MPCNC are about 24" x 24" IIRC. They recommend the "Low rider" from the same group if you want to cut bigger areas in wood. I built an MPCNC and was rebuilding it as a newer model, but decided not to continue assembling it. I'd rather cut bigger things, and it just can't.
@AronGreen Ай бұрын
You can also kapton tape the USB connector to disable the power. This was popular a few years ago on certain 3D printers
@davidbutcher6637 Ай бұрын
Question is there a list of the gauge of wires used for each section ?
@ObsessiveEngineering Ай бұрын
When I did it, there was no supplied list of wire gauges. I'm pretty sure I used 14AWG wires for most of it. You can look up wire sizes based on max current, below. For the heated bed, the 500mm V-Core-3 uses up to 1,500W continuous. In the US, outlets provide 120V, so max current is about 13A. If in Europe on 220V, or smaller V-Core-3 , it will use significantly less. The remaining wires where there is significance current is from the 24V power supply to run everything else. The biggest power sink there is the hotend, which I believe peaks at 70-100W, so max 4A. Add a few more amps for motors and other stuff. I believe I used 16-18AWG for those. Don't forget to tie everything to the ground. Including the bed, SSR, DIN rails if you use them, and the aluminum frame (I assume the docs have a complete list). I actually drilled and tapped a small hole in one of the rear extrusions so I could add a ground wire to the frame (it needs contact beneath the black anodization).
@GTGTRIK Ай бұрын
Wonder how much more annoying it'd be to make the upgrade without access to any other CNC.
@ObsessiveEngineering Ай бұрын
Honestly, having access to the big CNC was a luxury, but it would've been doable without it. The grooves for the T-track weren't really necessary -- they're only 2mm deep, primarily for positioning. And all the holes for everything else are normally measured out by hand anyway (per the original MPCNC design/instructions). I only had trouble the first time because I didn't have a large carpentry square, and wasn't as rigorous as I should've been.
@Ilikemakingthings Ай бұрын
This is a great video, thanks heaps! FYI you can chuck a little masking tape over the corresponding pin in the USB cable to save yourself having to slice the cable open
@ObsessiveEngineering Ай бұрын
Oh yeah, that certainly would've been easier. Thanks for the tip!
@Ilikemakingthings Ай бұрын
@@ObsessiveEngineering Checked out your build time lapse, really nice. I'm half way through my MPCNC build and will likely come back, really like your upgrades, would love to get mine cutting aluminium as cleanly as yours!
@aeiounix Ай бұрын
Bro. The video just stops. You left off the middle and the end of it!
@MrMorgalis Ай бұрын
on time 13min 23 secs you position your piece. how to find the correct home to your part and beginning the job?
@ObsessiveEngineering Ай бұрын
Good question! That black corner piece has a known position that I measured very carefully once and hardcoded into a G92/G10 macro, which I run whenever I install it. And I designed the 3D printed mount so that the center of the hole in the mounted part is exactly (+15, +15)mm from its lower-left corner. Ironically, I didn't even technically need that -- it's an XYZ-plate! I could just attached the leads to the plate and the bit, and used it to locate itself :)
@shamooo Ай бұрын
The deflection measurement is so cool
@ObsessiveEngineering Ай бұрын
That digital dial indicator was an impulse buy like 6 months ago which has now been fully, retroactively justified 😅 . It was genuinely helpful in troubleshooting that stiffness issue. Thanks for watching!
@PJgearhead 2 ай бұрын
Thanks for review. I want to scan a large rocker cover with the Ferret. Reckon this scanner would be up to it with good dimensional accuracy?
@marcosonnessa4871 2 ай бұрын
Awesome video! Is it possible to add a second extruder on it?
@ObsessiveEngineering 2 ай бұрын
It is possible, but not so much after it's built (at least not without significantly rebuilding the frame). RatRig labs has two different variants for dual-extruder. However this printer is my workhorse, and I am not motivated enough to take it offline long enough to try that upgrade. If you're starting from scratch, it's very doable, though the documentation might be lacking in some areas. However I see that V-core-4 was just announced, and it looks like they have a native dual-extruder option. I'm looking forward to seeing more details about the V-core-4 over the next few months.