It sounds like you're dealing with some persistent issues with your Ford Fiesta. The codes P0365 and P0369 typically relate to camshaft position sensor issues. Since you've already replaced both sensors and the problem persists, it might be worth checking the wiring harness and connectors associated with these sensors. Sometimes, faulty wiring or poor connections can trigger these codes, despite sensor replacement. Given that you're experiencing symptoms like poor shifting and unusual sounds during shifting, it could indicate a broader issue with the transmission system. The chattering you're hearing might indeed be related to transmission problems rather than valve issues. Considering the symptoms and codes you've mentioned, it might be best to have a thorough diagnostic check performed by a qualified mechanic or a dealership familiar with Ford vehicles. They can conduct more in-depth tests to pinpoint the exact cause of the problem. It's essential to address transmission issues promptly to prevent further damage and ensure safe driving conditions.

This is because many schools have a 2 factor authentication to login to your Canvas account.

test with other 109 relay. No accelerator pedal no response. check the accelerator pedal sensor.

The relay 109 is responsible only on starting engine. Concerning door light not working you have to to check door switches

Based on the information you provided, it seems like you're experiencing several issues with your Skoda Octavia. Here's a breakdown of the problems you mentioned and their possible causes: 1.CEL (Check Engine Light), limp mode, and Low Oil Pressure lights: These lights indicate that there are various error codes stored in your vehicle's computer system. The specific codes you mentioned, P3130, P17970, and P17971, may help in identifying the exact problems. 2.Low power and lack of smoke on heavy acceleration: This could be caused by a number of factors, such as a restricted intake/exhaust system, a faulty turbocharger, or a problem with fuel delivery. 3.Engine stalls after running for about 10 km and difficulty starting: This may indicate issues with the fuel system, such as clogged injectors, a malfunctioning fuel pump, or a problem with the ignition system. 4.Buzzing sound from the N18 solenoid: The buzzing sound and voltage fluctuations could be a sign of an electrical issue. Insufficient voltage supply could cause the solenoid to malfunction. 5.Starter, pump, and fan running without key inserted: This could be due to a faulty ignition switch or a wiring issue. 6.Fluctuating injection quantity and increased fuel consumption: These issues may be related to the fuel delivery system, such as a malfunctioning fuel pressure regulator or a problem with the engine control module. 7.Low voltage on ambient temperature sensor power supply: Low voltage to the sensor can affect its accuracy and performance. 8.Starter carbon brushes, armature, and solenoid getting burnt: This indicates a problem with the electrical system, possibly caused by excessive current draw or a faulty starter motor. While some of these issues could potentially be related to the Skoda Octavia's 109 relay, it's difficult to determine without a comprehensive diagnostic examination. It's recommended to consult with a qualified mechanic or Skoda dealership who can perform a thorough inspection and provide an accurate diagnosis of the problems you're facing. They will be able to interpret the error codes and conduct further tests to identify the root causes of the issues.

@@VAGWorldWide Thanks a lot for your detailed insights. I was able to address some of the issues. 1. P17970 and P17971 - Quantity Adjuster upper and lower limit exceeded. The Bosch Diesel Pump service centre had over torqued the bosch special bolt and other torx bolts on the EDC Pump which didn't let the adjuster move freely. Torqued them correctly and the IQ fluctuation stopped. 2. N18 EGR solenoid power supply was showing 11 VDC on pin 1 and pin 2. A secondary socket was latched incorrectly. I have removed it and the pin 1 measures 11 VDC and pin 2 0 VDC. The solenoid starts buzzing after a few minutes at idle. I have checked for the wiring and couldn't find anything wrong. 3. N75 Turbo Solenoid and N239 ASV reads 11 VDC on pin 1 and 3 VDC on pin 2. Is this the correct voltage? The Turbo actuator was working sometime ago but it's not moving. ASV works during shut down. 4. Oil Pressure sensor wire was cut at the connector. I have replaced the 1 pin connector and the warning light doesn't come up. 5. I have cleaned the ground, which is below the battery. It seems to be without corrosion or loose contact. 6. I will check the relay 109 as per your advice. If it is not the culprit, I have to try swapping the ECU. Now the limp mode is gone. I get the P3130 code with N18 buzzing. I have swapped the N18 and N75 solenoids but the buzzing didn't stop.

Vacuum hose, connected to the Turbo Actuator, melted when it came into contact with the exhaust pipe. Replaced it with a new braided rubber hose and ensured that it's clipped. I bought a 50 ml syringe from the pharmacy to test vacuum in solenoid and valves. EGR valve Turbocharger Vacuum Solenoid N75 are good. N18 and Wastegate actuator didn't hold vacuum. Relay 109 is faulty. I have replaced the relay 109, EGR Vacuum Solenoid N18 and the Turbo/Wastegate Actuator. Now, all the issues have been fixed.

Hello Matthew, The BEW is not the same as ALH. Did you change the ECU ?

Ameen

Sure I can do, What's the brand of your car ?

​@@VAGWorldWide chevrolet tracker 4 2021 model was build in China

Allah I7afdak akhay Zakaria