Can u show me how u do it quicker way?

Email me at [email protected]

Did you reuse the fuel pipe set? Do you think it's crucial to use a new one? It's listed at $177

Nice story bra, post a video of you doing it since you are the expert.

It’s gonna be hard to find the parts for this motorcycle anymore as it’s way too old you can find on eBay if someone’s selling or you can try bikebandit.com they sell oem parts as well but lately I’ve checked most are out of stock

Lol...you can't. It just doesn't go far enough. Seems like it should says it in Haynes Manual...but it doesn't

Lol 😂😂😂

I’m glad the video came in handy for you. Thank you.

Mileage is secondary it really depends upon the driving conditions city driving with quick stops and pot holes and how many hours a day you drive will determine the age , usually the shocks should last you good for 50-60k miles , but I’ve seen cars with 100k miles with shocks still in decent condition. If you use oem shocks then you can expect it to endure and perform for longer time. I had to change mine every 2 yrs as I was literally driving 40k miles a year and nyc conditions, If you feel your ride is bouncy or losing traction or while braking the whole car leaning substantially forwards, and too much roll while turning perhaps it’s the time, also you can check the shock itself to see if there’s any oil residue on it usually seals that keep the oil inside the shock eventually fail and oil starts to leak out. And remember everything that’s in pair must be changed in pair. You just don’t change one shock, also it’s recommended to change all 4 at once. Also when replacing shocks make sure the rubber boot cover is in good shape and if not replace it protects the rod from contamination of oil and can result in premature failure of seals inside as it goes in and out of the tube.

@@AliHamza-ls8xm thank you friend for the comment my honda accord is with 121k miles and just now a little noise started on the right side

It will perhaps clear itself after reaching certain mileage as cars computer does its own tests and resets after like 50 or 100 or 150 miles so keep driving, and then check

@@AliHamza-ls8xm Thank you very much.But I drove more than 400 miles and it’s still here,hope it disappear and nothing happens.

It’s been a while Maybe if you show me a picture of it so I’ll understand which bill you are talking about, I do remember some bolt did gave me a issue but I forgot which one it was. Probably used long extension or shoved my whole hand to feel for it to align the threads

for anyone who's having difficulty screwing the only long bolt securing the battery tray, this black tube thing here is flexible: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qIepYY2Xpb6Zr9U , so try to stuff something behind it to make the tube pop out more towards back of the car. Otherwise, the hole on this tube will make you aim at a wrong angle towards the threaded hole at the underside of the tray. If you still find it difficult to align, use something like a hex key to align these two holes, then once you find it is almost aligned, try to screw again. Good luck guys! changing the filter does make a big difference in the responsiveness of the CVThere.

Yes sure I might still have it send me your email as a dm

@@AliHamza-ls8xm I dont see your email or anywhere to send a DM.

@@jthorn11 [email protected]

Not sure, but mine booth was cracked

50k intervals

@Freddy Prieto you can check the parts at Hondapartsnow.com as based upon models and vin might be lil different, the website have search by vin option, following are the parts when I bought it few years back things might have superseded by new products: the following part no.s - Fuel pump: 16790-5LA-A01 $449.15 Fuel pipe : 16012-5A2-325 $107.78 Pump lifter roller : 14780-5A2-A01 $41.10 White retainer : 17711-S0X-004 $5.03 Manifold gasket: 17115-5A2-A01 $2.66×4 Throttle body gasket: 17107-R40-A01 $2.87