Excusa moi.... but what was the unit you plugged your programming track into? I don't have that thingy gadget under Moi's layout.

50 times the subs now, got another one

Larry forgot to post this after watching your video. Have been watching you for years and all through those years you have helped me personally through some difficult and easy DCC solutions. For me and probably countless others, thank you for sharing your knowledge with the rest of us.

Hi Larry, been thinking of you with the flooding and damage in western NC. Hoping all is well with you.

Hi I’m interested in adding ambient sound to various areas on my layout. Have you ever done this?

I wanted to see you feed the switch out that 1/4" hole from the inside! LOL

IPA and/or...if you can get it, De-Natured alcohol. Here in California they took it off the shelves at Lowe's and Home Depot.

Cork for cleaning rails ..BIG thumbs up!! A little piece of Masonite hardboard also. There are "track cleaning cars" out there that have sandpaper stuck to a weight? Use the Masonite or cork.

So, when I first bought DCC, I chose Digitrax. Now? I have NCE.

Great video

Another annoying video. Why on earth are you popular at all ???

Hi I'm very new at this and my question is does the polarity on the track make a difference to the DCC operated train and when programming it also

Larry, I have Peco Electrofrog turnouts and connected above ground Peco switch machines. However, they don't seem to have enough power to throw the points as the turnouts come out of the box. Does that mean I must removed the Peco turnouts and take out the srping the lets them finger flick?

Thank you 😊

Sorry I forgot to reply Thank you for replying to me.

The throttle I have is a DT602 I did follow the instructions on the that came with the throttle. but I couldn't get the engine move.

Locsound is the best sounding decoder, but that's the one thing that aggravating about them! The extra crap, like the white wire.

Thanks for your opinion - backed with heaps of experience and good analysis. I'm happy to trust it. I don't have enough personal experience, except to say most of my DCC is factory fitted and seems Ok. I could not tell you what brand decoders! Recently I've been told of LoKSound on a certain model made in Australia burning out quickly. No-one seems to know why. Apparently the model maker and LokSound have replaced with no argument and have tried but still miffed. They were factory fitted. I've since found out the maker is switching to DCC power only decoders. No dual power options in future.

Pretty sure Lenz invented the DCC system. But made it available to all. Hence significant compatibility across DCC. WiFi, radio and Bluetooth are proprietary. In some cases that's not a big issue because free software is provided for phone and pads.

I'm having trouble sinking the digitrax controller. to the engines that I have. Do you have any videos that show exactly what? to do with the controller to program in the engines

I like those "concrete" markers, clever and prototypical. I'd also plant a few weeds around, just for the sake of appearance.

Great video, do you need to isolate each light fixture?

Hello.. which buck board is this. What is your recomendation.

again Larry your videos are the best.

Or... throw the Bachman junk in the trash and buy a quality system!

Great to see you back in action again Larry, as enthusiastic as ever and continuing to provide inspiration to all your followers.

Does anyone make a locomotive DCC decoder that can detect and operate on DCC or DC, depending what the track/controller provides ?

Great to see you making videos again larry🎉😅

I’m done with the hobby it’s to expensive for me to stay in it. I can’t compete with the rich guys anymore. I’ll be selling all my stuff soon too.

I've used DeOxit for decades on my audio system. It definitely makes a difference. An audiophile from Japan came over for a listen and commented that he thought the right channel sounded better, clearer. I had only gotten around to cleaning all the right channel connections with DeOxit. I've used DeOxit in my model railroad too, although I was using it straight out of the bottle, which did build up some gunk over time (years), and ironically, seemed to actually improve traction even though the gunk was there. Electrical conductivity was still excellent however. I've never tried diluting it. I would also be careful what kind of isopropyl alcohol is used for dilution. Many isopropyl alcohol products are "rubbing" alcohol and contain some lubricants which we don't want on the tracks. Isopropyl alcohol is also highly flammable.

I have found that if you cut the power off, when the point is in one position. When you turn the power back on you get a frog power problem.

Those are pretty neat, i am building a small layout and my plan is to use bachmann ez track dcc switches with dcc already built in. I decided this due to footprint, i can blend and cut the plastic roadbed to match my atlas but it gives me a working self contained switch. Even cooler is they have a metal frog that can be powered or unpowered, or you can wire in a frog juicer. I might look into these though for a future build, but what i really want is a extremely small working switch stand.

Really appreciate your videos, especially those on signaling. Every one is valuable even though we model in different scales. In 1:64 we need to do a great deal more scratch building than other scales and your videos a full of useful ideas and circuits.

Great to see you again, Larry!

DCC track oxidation is caused between 'powered wheeled locomotives' and the 'track', causing micro arcing sparks leaving behind a "black residue" a 'carbon build up'. Due to flammable dangers you omitted: * Odorless Mineral Spirits. * Lacquer Thinner. Facts: * Lacquer Thinner --> Melts plastic. * Odorless Mineral Spirits --> Safe with most plastics. * First Aid Antiseptic --> WARNING: Isopropanol = Fumes are very powerful. Lets look at the science of metal conductivity: Odorless mineral spirits, none conductive, not pollard that will 'Not' cause that micro arcing, excellent removing track grime, in (1) to (2) passes.

Talk about being disingenuous. Ron had to clean his track after treating it with NO-OX-ID a whole TWO YEARS after applying it because he was doing RENOVATIONS which created a LOT of dust, and had a bit of trouble with SOME track. He still wholeheartedly recommends using NO-OX-ID. Bottom line is you will ALWAYS have to clean your track, eventually. Two years without having to do so sounds like a win to me.

Did you contact Todd in South Carolina?

Glad to see you back I hope one time in the train show in Fletcher, NC.

Special Electronics Added: Added across connections [#1]+[#8] "motor terminals". Added a tiny 0.1uF capacitor. * Improves 12V-DC motor performance. * Reduces DCC sound.

Did you have to remove a ground from the motor to the chassis frame (was this originally DC)?

Good to see you back Larry!!

Thanks for this one and others that give a much needed review of new products. I really enjoy your how to build videos and these product reviews. Glad you able to do them and I wish you well and good health that is more important. Happy Railroading Larry from an old retired train dispatcher TWS.

Hi Larry, Good to see you. I noticed your skin and nail color looks good. Wishing you the best. 👍😊🙏

Welcome back, happy designing.

Glad you’re back, Larry!!!

Please explain how adding all of this additional costly and IMO unnecessary circuitry is better than the old fashioned method of just using a DC powered solenoid switch machine. This an example of why I can no longer afford this hobby. Unnecessary complication and expense to solve a simple problem that already had a long established and economical solution! I guess if you’re one of the lucky few with tons of disposable income as so many of model railroader you tube posters seem to be, then I guess this is a desirable solution.

Great to see you again. Would they be strong enough for hand laid solid rail turnouts? Non hinged throw bars? Thank you Larry.

I have a an old DC 4 X 9 layout with 13 blocks. The blocks are wired with the Atlas 20 gauge wire. Also, the track has rail joiner wire connections that are an even smaller gauge. I’m adding DCC to the layout that I will be able to switch with the DC so I can continue to run mid-60’s Tyco locomotives. Would you suggest a complete rewiring with larger gauge wire? Thanks!

This may be a stupid question, but how do I get that file now in DecoderPro into my decoder?

Great to see you and hope you continue to do well for many laps around the sun.