If you’re not filming in a log profile, you’ll be much more limited in how much you can push and pull the image but in theory yes. It’s the same steps I would use if I wasn’t shooting log apart from shooting overexposed. The LUTs are meant to be used with LOG footage but there are LUTs that work great with Rec.709 footage. So from a long answer to a short, yes but you won’t have as much flexibility and you probably wouldn’t make as radical adjustments. Hope that makes sense 😊

Yes, it’s the same pack but now in a kit with all the other assets too 😊 If you already bought The Color Pack you have received an email with a link to upgrade to this kit for free 🙌🏻

Makes sense! I didn’t realise that, thank you! I think it might still be good practice to do anyway, especially when you then use other footage with a different profile to make sure you remember to do it 🙌🏻

@@AlexBjorstorp Absolutely! But one thing I would suggest is always working on the same scene space (like davinci wide gamut, arri log c or on this case sony slog3) and the reasoning behind that is you'll be able to build muscle memory on how the tools you use react, how sensitive they are and they won't act in unexepected ways because you'll be consistently working in the same log space. Anyways, hope you're doing well and wishing you a great Christmas and new year! Take care.

@ I worked in DWG/Intermediate for the better part of the last 2 years but it’s not necessary for my own workflow when I work in slog3 99% of the time and I honestly don’t feel any difference as to how the tools perform. If I start working with more cameras, codes and profiles, I’ll definitely use DWG again but there’s just no need for the extra step now 😊 Not to say DWG isn’t the better option I’m just all about saving time and making things as simple as I can at the moment 🙌🏻 Happy holidays mate and thanks for your kind comments and great insights!

Would be the exact same workflow - I wouldn’t change anything, I don’t have any BRAW to show it either but this workflow would be how I grade any footage I shoot myself 🙌🏻

@AlexBjorstorp Thank you. Goodnight.

Cheers mate! Appreciate your kind feedback 🙏🏻

It is 10-bit but my settings and workflow is the exact same using the A6400 which is in 8-bit 😊

Thank you David! I’m not sure what you mean by default slog3? Could you explain (but my question suggests that I am though) 😄

@@AlexBjorstorp Ooh, sorry, I mean, do you tweak the S-Log3 Picture Profile settings like contrast, black level, detail, etc in camera or do you leave all those settings as they are? I use an A7IV by the way.

Ah I get it! No I leave everything in default. I find that works perfectly fine 😊 I’d love to try the A7IV - looks like a great hybrid!

Cheers mate! I think you were the 3rd comment actually haha!

Right after I watched Cullen’s video I saw an issue someone mentioned in the comments and he later made a video explaining that he’d forgotten to set the lum mix to 0 and that was why some colors became over saturated in some instances. So I just took that to heart immediately 🙌🏻

You can just copy paste the settings from one node to another, cmd + c and cmd + v on the other node - easy as that 😊

Try the most common conversions like Clog3, slog3 or something else and see what looks best and start from there 😊

@@AlexBjorstorp Thanks for the quick reply.

It can be difficult to grab only the hue of a persons skin without it looking weird, so you'll want to start as broad as possible. I like to use the Hue vs. Hue to isolate the hue range where the skin tones lie and adjust them isolated there. if there are other red/orange hues in the scene you'll also affect those but I find that to be the best way :-)

Awesome! It's all about putting in the practice but I've always found myself going back to some format of Wide, Medium & Close when I get overwhelmed. It gives enough room to edit and keep it interesting while still being fairly easy to shoot - and as with all rules or guidelines, it doesn't have to be followed exactly. Sometimes two wide and two medium just work better but 1-1-2 is a great starting point for me at least! Hope you captured something on your walk 🙌🏼 New Zealand is absolutely stunning - definitely a bucket list country!

The first thing that pops to mind would be a combination of creative angles to give different perspectives and play around with very tight close-ups of typing, eye-motion and similar shots to those to create something visually interesting and different. Shoot me a DM on Instagram with some examples of your work and I'm happy give my perspective and see if I can shoot some ideas your way 🙌🏼 - Tak! Her er virkelig smukt, det er ubeskriveligt 😄

I love that quote and I 100% agree! Hope you've captured something fun with the 1-1-2 or 1-2-3!

I wouldn't attach the ZV-E1 to a drone unless you're a professional FVP pilot and I know very little about FPV. For regular consumer drones the Mini, Air or Mavic series from DJI are all great options depending on where you want to fly and what kind of work you want to create :-)

Glad you like them!

There are no exact rules to this, the idea is more so that each composition shows something about the story 😊 Wide shots are good for showing the environment & scale but not the best for emotion. Medium are good both both action and emotion but you don’t see as much of the environment so it might not tell where it’s taking place. Close-ups are great for showing detail and give a more interesting perspective and showing what the character is doing or a detail that you might not otherwise see in real life. Each of them can have so many more meaning but these are often the reasons I think of for each and how to use them. Hope that helps a bit 😊

@ that was extremely helpful and I appreciate the explanation I think I lean toward the wide too much and other than environmental it’s not adding anything to the story but I will focus on the details which is where the medium and tight come in because I avoid them but now I know how you reveal it or hold back what I want to tell in my story

100% agree, when you make it your income source as well it becomes a bit more tricky though - no new content means less or no income. So it becomes a fine line between keeping the love for it and not burning out because you ‘have to’. But I’m getting past the burnout slowly and taking it easy definitely helped me too. Fun to hear your nephew loving your videos of him as a kid!

I use the PGYTech Mantispod 2.0 I have mixed feelings about it - it’s a great tripod for mostly even surfaces but can’t really be secured to a tree or something like that. Works great with the Sony cameras as they are small and light though 😊🙌🏻

I guess there are limitations to how good stabilisation can be, at least for now - but luckily not the end of the world and I think you're right all the way through! The overheating is definitely only an issue if you require very long recording sessions or shoot a ton of 120fps but I've personally already gone back to 60fps again as I don't need it to be that slow for what I do. I think this camera will do well for many many years with what it can do now!

Cheers mate! Thank you - almost didn’t add it to the first clips but happy to hear it made a difference, will make a note on that for future, similar videos as well 🙌🏻

Happy to hear you found it helpful! It’s a fun but sometimes challenging journey to go from photography to videography - but it’s worth it in the long run!

As far as I’ve always understood it there are two ways to go. 1) let DaVinci handle it by adjusting the color management and have it down more or less automatically. 2) control it on a node level where you simply use input and output CSTs to determine what color space you’re working in and with. I’ve always gone for the 2nd option and left my color management settings alone because I like to see and control what I’m doing and not rely on resolve to handle it for me - although many argue that’s a good way to go too, I simply haven’t felt the need to explore that direction myself. Hope that helps

Appreciate you mate, happy to hear it was helpful!

You're welcome! Glad it was helpful 😊

Hey! I’m not sure if this video is what you’re looking for but there I explain what Rec.709 is 😊 What is REC 709? kzbin.info/www/bejne/fGSxfWWKZtGqgdk And otherwise you can look up my ‘80% of color grading’ video if you haven’t watched that already 🙌🏻

More a mountain climb than a hike for sure 😂 I was talking about you and our trip to Preikestolen, when we were up there 😅 The 100-400 is amazing, but also big and heavy to bring around 😅

No worries mate, she is my girlfriend 😁 And she is! Always good at bringing a happy mood 🙏🏻 Thanks for watching mate!

Cheers, you're welcome! Thanks for watching!

Thanks so much!

@ This is exactly what a beginner who wants to dive deep into the basic logic of a software needs. This really helps a lot! Hope to see more of your future posts!

Haha, thanks mate!

Mange tak Noah!

During the talking head? On a random campsite in New Zealand. During the different clips throughout the video; behind the camera 😄

You just need to change the settings on your waveform scope :-)

You’re welcome! Thanks for watching!

Thanks mate! I’m always shooting everything fully manual, so I’ll se the WB first if needed and then i shoot over-exposed just before the clipping point of SLOG3 so I can bring it back in post :-)

@ ok.. that’s pretty much how I do. I found out it’s better to keep at 1.7 are let in clip at 2.0

2.0 doesn’t mean it’s clipping, it all depends on the brightness of what’s in the frame and how much the sensor can handle - but +1.7 is a good starting point to get a good exposure most of the time 😊

You're welcome! 🙌🏻

It’s not the size, it’s how you use it 😂 I’ll show you it’s magic once we link up in Europe again! I have to see if I can borrow the A1 II from Sony one day or rent it, just because I’m curious about the flagship 😅

That's fair! I've personally never liked Nikon mostly because of their design but we all have our own taste and Nikon makes great cameras too! The Nikon Z50ii (just looked it up) has an APS-C sensor though, and I can't go back from Full-Frame. I know the Z-Series from Nikon are mostly great as well though, so no hate on them :-)

I've recently realised that it really depends on your style and preference of shooting, so it's very subjective. I personally don't like the wide-angle look because I find it too distorted and things to appear too small in the frame when they're further away. I'm much more of a telephoto guy, so I mostly shoot at 30mm+. So, for me the 24-70 is fine for vlogging but I also have quite long arms, so I can hold it at a decent distance and still have enough in the frame. An alternative is using a mini tripod to get it a bit further away. I have considered getting a 16mm prime at times but I know I won't be using it because of the hassle switching to another lens when I'm not talking to the camera. So the 24-70 is as low as I'll most likely go. I hope that makes sense! It sounds like you got a pretty good setup already, the only thing I would miss in your kit is a longer telephoto, something like a 70-200 or 100-400 but again that's heavily biased as that's some of my absolute favourite lenses. Hope that helps!

@@AlexBjorstorpwow, thank you very much for sharing your good thoughts!

You're welcome, any time!

Great honest review Alex 👍🏻 my combo is the FX6 & the ZVE1 😀 the small ZVE1 is a tiny cam beast and unloved it for traveling 😉 best cinematic greetings from europe 👋 by the way my latest uploaded was Australia and New Zealand too, but filmed with older Sony A6500 😅

Thank you! I have been so surpirsed by this tiny camera 😅 I'd love to get the FX6 when I'm in Europe, glad to hear it works as a great combo for you! I'll check out your video from AUS & NZ! Thanks for watching and commenting!

Thank you Jostein! Really love this camera even with the small downsides 🙌🏻

Thank you! I’m not sure, sorry! But I started with DR at version 18, so perhaps it’s not backwards compatible with 17, that would be my only guess