I would advice to look up the maintenance intervals for your specific car but from what I'm seeing, spark plugs roughly every 50-60k miles and coils I don't think there's a specific time for those but if you wanna replace them before they fail I think maybe every 100k miles but it's really up to you. Or you can just replace all when one or two fail.

Something the current owner can do if the plan is to eventually sell the vehicle is to keep a personal maintenance record of the work done with the date and a copy of the parts receipt attached to it. The next owner would have to do their own due diligence just like with any other purchase. No dealer/shop service history? Does the seller seem responsible enough? There's a risk in everything we do in life. We need to learn how to navigate it. To answer your question, you are somewhat correct, the next (potential) owner will not have service history if the reminder was properly or improperly reset and will have to make a choice of whether or not to purchase that vehicle.

Thanks for comment. No need to disconnect the battery for this. As long as you don't turn on the ignition while you have electrical connectors disconnected you should be good. Check engine light or SES light will definitely come on. Nobody is born knowing all things. Question everything

@@ALLBMW thank you so much for this man, what a great response 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

Thanks! That's gonna be an E8 for the ignition coil screws.

@@ALLBMW thank you so much, I seen this similar bolt used in different places, maybe the same bolts?

No worries. So BMW uses a lot of these types of screws/bolts and in different sizes. The sockets are called inverted torx sockets and come in different sizes. The most common sizes are E6,E8,E10 and E12 for smaller parts but you will also find bigger sizes for suspension components or bracings.

Thanks. So there's 2 options for ISTA, 1: we deactivate it with the same test plan and you'll adjust the parking brake through the test plan as well. 2: we get a message saying that workshop mode will automatically remove itself after the vehicle is driven above a certain speed, something low around 5 mph. After that you'll get a message in the vehicle to activate the parking brake at a standstill like you normally would to make its adjustment. Not sure if aftermarket scan tools have something similar but I would assume they have the option to deactivate workshop mode and then just manually engage the parking brake to make sure it's working properly and no check control messages appear

No problem! I got you. Working on how to provide more valuable content.

Never tried or heard of any one draining the oil from the top. I could be wrong though and there is a way to do that. I didn't show it but you're absolutely right. There's a copper washer that goes in between the drain plug and the oil pan. Make sure you remove the old one and have a new one ready to install. The oil filter we get always comes with a new one so make sure it's there when you get your oil filter.

G30s are probably one of our more reliable models imo. Apart from a few coolant leaks which is common for any performance vehicle I haven't seen these break down. I only had one with engine failure due to engine tuning. I would skip the first G30 (2016) and look for a 2017-2019.

@@ALLBMW music to my ears sir, thank you

Yup you can just set them to the side and keep on moving. BMW does have some stubborn connectors...

I think this was an F34 BMW 430i with a B46 engine. Oh yeah man the level of difficulty for releasing some of these connectors or lines is insane. But these type of connectors are found on the latest BMWs nowadays.

Not sure what caused the little nub to come off but after unlocking the white tab the screwdriver is used to lift up the black tab first to clear the little nub then while I have the black tab lifted I'll push it away from the coil. Hope this clears it up. I don't believe you need a new coil since the acoustic cover kinda sits on top of the coils/connectors. It's still a tight fit. Worse case scenario you would need a coil if it's missing the little nub and the connector comes off. You could also press the white tab after its unlocked to lift up the black tab to clear the nub and pull the connector away from the coil

Think I know what I did. I used a wider flat bladed screwdriver after lifting the white tab with a mini screwdriver. Using the larger screwdriver I used a twisting motion to free the connector instead of a lifting motion as you were using. The extra friction of not lifting the black tab on the connector must have removed the nub on the coil. Live and learn as they say. Think I’ll just pull the coils and lay them off to the side like you did when changing the plugs. Then if I change the coil packs at some point, I’ll just replace them all at once and then won’t have to worry about stripping the nub off. How about a ZF8spd transmission service video? Thanks

Oh yeah anything bigger than a pocket screwdriver won't allow you to get in between to lift up the black tab. Imma put up a video to do it by hand to clear any confusion. I just find it simpler with a pocket screwdriver since sometimes pressing down on the tab doesn't really clear the nub on the coil/sensor/actuator, whatever it may be. I'll put the transmission service video on my to do list, very good idea!

Like this

Lol Hi Ynad

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Lol So are you or

Lol!

Another great comment! Yeah you really don't need to remove the electrical connector for the coils BUT I did record a quick video today at work showing how to remove the connector easily with a pocket screwdriver and it should be up as a short to watch if I did it correctly. The way I learned to approach each job is to always have in mind that the less things that get removed means the less things need to get installed minimizing any room for error and saving time. F31? Wagon? Dope... I do wanna make a video on the valve cover but I might have to do that job at home if I wanna record it since it's a little more time consuming and worrying about recording while doing that job might slow me down. Any fault codes? You smoke tested the intake side to check for any air leaks?

Didn’t do a smoke test, no smoke machine and no codes oddly enough, just runs rough like it’s a tank vent valve but different. It has positive pressure in the system but when you take the oil cap off it gets better, sounds and idles a little better, that’s what I’m going by or how I’m diagnosing it having dealt with Volvo’s for many years and knowing that the PCV system is built into the valve cover on the B46. Yes, 17 B46 wagon Xdrive, possibly the best car I’ve ever owned but definitely more complicated to work on than the Volvo’s. 1999 sedan inline 5 168hp and 2004 wagon inline 5 300hp turbo. The sedan at 320k still runs great, unfortunately the wagon with 200k and the HP turbo developed a cylinder #3 misfire and haven’t totally figured it out yet but is likely serious. Possibly a burnt valve, cracked block or something else serious like that, has low compression in cylinder 3. It was a great car for the 180k miles I put on it until the misfire, purchased it with about 20k on it. Also wanted to ask you, is it okay to blow compressed air into the plug well even after the spark plugs are out? Did see what looked like rust smoke coming from the wells but won’t that contaminate the cylinder? Really appreciate the reply and your videos!

It does sound like a crankcase issue. We have a chart of possible causes to look at depending on what type of crankcase pressure the engine has, i'll see if I can post it somewhere to check out. Definitely a fun car and I would definitely go with the wagon apart from sedan or even coupe. It sounds like that Volvo gave you all it could though. When it comes to blowing compressed air the answer is yes. As per repair instructions you have to blow compressed air before removing the spark plugs to make sure nothing goes into the cylinder and after removing the spark plugs to clean out the cylinders. And as you can see it does clean them out. I actually look forward to and enjoy that part of replacing spark plugs, not sure why lol.

You technicians love your compressed air! Was once hit square between the eyes from a technician doing target practice on me with the cap of a Motorcraft fuel filter. Came with little red caps on each end that kept out contaminates. Very startling when not expecting it. This from a good 50-75 feet away. We both had a good laugh over it but unfortunately he got in trouble over it and eventually lost his job there about three months later. Too bad Tom was a good technician. Would love to see that chart. Used the mini screwdriver to pull another coil wiring terminal off and it works exactly like you said. Pull the white cap up, place the screwdriver between the black tab and coil, then gently pry up and back and it slides right off, leaving the coil nub intact. Really appreciate it again!

Sounds like Tom was a man with many talents. To hit a shot like that from 50 ft away is impressive. The workplace has been made safer but can't have it too dull. So it took me a while to set it up but I was able to post that technical information that we get on IG. I have the link under the description of both spark plug videos and I'll post here in case it's accessible, let me know if it comes up instagram.com/p/C8gGTDixEAA/?igsh=NjBxY2k1MDZwaTN6 and I'm glad it worked! There's some connectors that won't come out no matter how much you press on it so the pocket screwdriver with that technique will handle any of those type of connectors!

Thanks! Yeah I make a living from this and I completely understand your approach as well. You prioritize precision to eliminate any error and most of us in the field do as well but we use our power tools on the daily and build a muscle memory with those power tools similar to using hand tools. I've even done some tests with my power tools to get an idea of what they can and can't do. But I do appreciate your feedback and info. Glad to have you on board 🫡

Thanks

Thanks man. Glad it helped

Nope. You're good to go. Just don't turn on the ignition when you have connectors disconnected or you'll have the check engine light come on.

If the air filter location/design is the same one as in the video then it should be the same as the F30 that I did an air filter on. The video should be the F30 oil change and filter change one (3rd video made U believe). If the design is a little different give me a little more info about your car and I'll see when I can make a video on that specific one.

Good observation. It could be oil spillage from the oil filter housing when removing the filter. It could also be from a coolant leaks but coolant will usually wet the whole under panel and turn whitish after it dries. Oil will be absorbed and leave that type of stain. I would just check to make sure there aren't any leaks on that side, if not then it's most likely just from removing the oil filter.

Can't give you the exact mileage but I believe these had roughly 60k miles. But it all depends on where you live apparently. Some guys in the comments were saying they get replaced every 40k miles where he lives. I would just look in the owners manual and if not enough info is there I would contact your local dealer.

Good question. The PCV on these engines are integrated into the valve cover so if they rupture then the complete valve cover will need to be replaced. Unfortunately BMW doesn't sell the part by itself but I have found it on Amazon. I can't really tell you if it works or not since it's not a BMW repair. To look at it on the positive side if your car is high mileage you would have a new valve cover which over time are prone to cracks and leaks. I would definitely recommend an OEM valve cover if this repair is needed

@@ALLBMW thank you,, I will have it replaced because I also noticed when I try to drive it in SPORTS mode the engine won't shift gears.

Yeah definitely can be a quick learning experience. Get those motor skills going

Not a problem!

The spark plugs are due with your oil service so there's really no service reset for just spark plugs. You would just reset the oil service and spark plugs would just be in conjunction with it. Just write it down so that you can always have that reference to not miss the next one. I think in the comments we have a few different recommendations of how often spark plugs are replaced depending on country. I would still try to find out for your specific location though.

Thanks! Glad I didn't waste your time lol.

quick and precise instructions... love it 👍👍

Yeah, it's not as easy as replacing spark plugs thats for sure

Oh yeah man. Definitely in the easy category. No problem

Thanks man. Unfortunately BMW doesn't believe in dipsticks and there is no way to extract oil that I'm aware of. I do know that some dealers are implementing a mobile service so maybe there will be an alternative way to draining/extracting the oil. If I do come across something I'll see if I can get back to you. But as of now there are no dip sticks in the latest BMWs

For sure. Thanks for the feedback. I'll keep at it then!

Thanks man. Appreciate it

They are OEM. Wouldn't trust aftermarket oil filters tbh. I would stop by a BMW dealership to get the parts needed for your car. Let me know if you need more info

@@ALLBMW hey, what’s the part number for the air filter?

The air filter part # for this car is 13 71 8 632 502

Dont quote me on this but from the information that im seeing on this car it should be every 60k miles or 72 months. Whichever comes first.

In my European country it is recommended every 80.000 km or every 48 months whichever come first

Alright so they're replaced 10k miles/2 years sooner in your area. I guess sooner is better rather than later

@@ALLBMW I guess our roads are tougher for the engine. I have done it today works like a charm.

Thank you. From the information i'm seeing this vehicle will be having spark plugs recommended every 60k miles or 72 months, whichever comes first. I would double check with your local dealer however.

if you want a good video idea, make one on how to get a g20 bmw on all four jack stands using central jack points. there is no video on this and the question comes up every now and then on FB and bimmerpost. the service manual calls for center jack points (slightly different b/w rwd and xdrive). i know about it and use it, but i just dont feel like making a video lol.

That would be a good video. Just need to get some more jack stands but definitely doable. I'll get on it. Thanks

@@ALLBMW okay I stand corrected, there is ONE video but it sucks. don't forget about me when you're a youtube millionaire.

I’m not really sure about how often you should have your transmission/differential fluid done since it all depends on your driving habits. If you haven’t done those services after the car hits 100k miles then I would probably just leave it alone. In any case I would recommend you get your closest dealer/shop to give you their opinion on when it would be best considering all the details of your car.

No problem. And thank you for the feedback.

Thanks for the feedback. Really do appreciate it

On the engine that the video is on it takes 0W-20 part number: 83 21 2 457 111

I’ll definitely keep that in mind going forward. The most difficult or crucial part of that repair would be removing and installing the fuel rail with injectors. The engines are pretty solid so congrats on your X3 M40i!

Thanks. Glad it helped.