Ipa 99%. Need flux to make solder it stick

Flux would probably help it to stick better too

Thanks a lot for this video. I know it's 13 years old.....but this video helped me disassemble & fix my IPM on my 2002 Dodge Ram. Saved me a ton of money and only took a few hours to fix. Corroded board, no tail lights......same old same old. Dodge should really replace these for free. Who ever heard of a fuse box going bad? Anyway, Thank You!!!

You r the man for sharing you knowledge

Very helpful video, thanks !

you can remove solder with a copper wire

What do the 3 relays control on the circuit board

Thanks.

Came home and found my parking lights stuck on in my 2004 Ram 2500. This was a very helpful video to help me remove the casing to get to the circuit board and find the trace with a 12 ohm short to adjacent trace. Fixed the problem. Thanks for your time and for putting this out there! you saved me some time doing this!

I just did this fix on mine, worked great. Thanks for the video.

I know this is a super old video. But just to help people out. Use flux, it will make the solder stick and you can control it better even if it bridges pins. You can unbridge just as easy.

Know your video is 8yrs old and you probably don't watch for comments anymore but here's hoping. I was thankful for your instructional video but after I pulled my IPM from my 2004 Dodge Ram 3500 SLT Cummings 5.7l Diesel, I noticed my board was similar but the printouts looked different. I was really hoping you could help further in directing me of where I could SMS a wire to correct my front left low beam problem. In looking at the schematics on page 8W-50-7, the low beam functions via the FCM 4 via circuit 43 IPM etc. My IPM looked clean outside and inside. I saw minimal dirt/dust on the circuit board itself and it was near the FCM solder points but after cleaning with 91% alcohol, the board looked pristine. I didn't see any corrosion at all so I am really confused as to what the problem could be. However, I am unsure on how to test circuit 43 on the open board and/or how to repair. Do you think my actual problem is with the FCM, which I am unable to open to inspect? Also, my truck brake lights and I think the top lights running on top of cab come on periodically when truck is not being used. I really am trying to save some money here and fix the problem myself but I am a novice at best. I would appreciate any advice. Thank you!!

Yeah I’m sorry 😐 I wanna is your not my mom you know if she wants me and she is a nurse 👨‍⚕️ I have been there a few days I have to get to my work and nurse 👩‍⚕️ she said if you have time for lunch 🍴 was a day that we were supposed you can get a good one ☝️ I know that it’s going up and to be at the house 🏠

I pulled mine apart thinking that this was the problem that I could fix it but my board is very clean. I have no running lights no brake lights and no license plate lights also no blinkers only in the rear my front blinkers and headlights work fine any idea what it could be?

Excellent video. Having a hard time soldering such a tiny circuit... Tried it once already but shorted out my radio... Trying again but it's right next to another line and that one must be my radio...

Flux

nice

I opened up the fuse box on my 1998 Dodge Ram and was surprised to find that there's no circuit board contained within. The lower section of the fuse box has no holes or openings in it and effectively prevents moisture from getting inside. They should have used a similar box on the Rams with the circuit boards.

Thank you! by chance do you have the schematic for what each pin/tracer is for

good work ... nice straight forward vid ....

great video very well put together keep up the good work

Thank you sir for this informative video. Just completed the repair, had to splice a few strands of wire to bridge the gap, which I had made worse trying to use too large of an iron. Got it on the first try with a smaller iron.

Thanks for posting the video, I used this to fix my truck tonight! Only thing I did different was to put a #22 wire in place of the trace on the board and then super glue it down to hold it in place. Plugged it in and worked like a champ.

I am not worthy! Thank you very much for this video. The dealer first charged me $115 for the diagnostics, then estimated it would cost me $1200 to fix! (They would have replaced both components) I soldered a small copper wire across the gap and it worked! Hallelujah!

Sprinkles IS THE MAN! I just did this repair. Had 5 corrosion breaks on the circuit that controls marker lights and tail lights. Soldering the gaps was tricky, so I used some thin wire and silver solder to bridge the gaps. Then sealed everything with silicon. This saved over $650 Canadian.

Sprinkles, you are the man. Not confident when it comes to electrical issues, but with your video it was not a problem. Excellent job. Thanks WORKED PERFECTLY

Hello! I have a silly question for you: being that I do not at all trust myself doing this, is there any half assed alternative I can do? Like bridging a pin in the plug direct to the relay or just powering my parking lights off my headlights? Thanks

what is this for? thanks

oh one more thing! dont turn the key 3 times! just turn it once while u hold the trip button.

theres another speedometer trick....do the key thing as u did WHILE u hold the trip button...and ALL the warning lights should light up and all the needles should sweep.

@points2shopPROOF yes from years 97 and up but its different....fords has MORE info like fuel level, digital taach, digital speedo., oil pressure etc

This is fantastic. Thank you for making the video.