Thanks. I was removing it like I would in an f150. If I ever do another one of these, that is what I will do.

Were the plastic tensioners used during the timing chain replacement? This is a common problem for these specifically. These will only make the chain tight when it sees oil pressure, so with the engine running. As soon as the engine is turned off, the oil pressure will bleed off and make the chain loose. This is why I like using the steel tensioners with the push out locks.

Thank you!

I don't know why, but I don't think I have ever fought one on a modular engine. Even with living in the midwest with all the salt being used in the winter.

At the time, I had no idea. I was basing it off of pulling one of these engines from an f150. But if I were to do this again, that is the way I would do it.

Here is a link to the teardown of this engine. It was pretty bad... kzbin.info/www/bejne/hYWrk6iErreYj9k

I agree. Hands down, 4V will always beat a 2V, but I didn't have 4V heads lying around. Also, running 3V flat top pistons in a 2V with PI heads has always been a curiosity of mine. I have only read it could be done in forums, but no actual videos about building it and trying it out. This car doesn't need to be the fastest thing on the road. I'm just having fun and making something a little different.

I have been thinking about this to hopefully give you a helpful answer. First, let's start with a couple of questions. Was this engine opened up at all when you picked it up? Were the valve cover/s off or timing cover? The only thing I can think of is if the reluctor ring wasn't installed, it could cause the balancer to be pulled in too far and touch the timing cover. A way to check this when the timing cover is on would be to remove the crank position sensor and look for the teeth on the ring. If timing was done for some reason, it may have been installed using the wrong crank gear. These modulars have 2 different styles, and the ring must be matched with the gear. A part in the video I have about timing goes through these 2 different gear styles. With all the extra parts, it's very possible the balancer is wrong. Here is a link for a balancer from Rockauto if you do want to replace it. They have treated me well over the years when ordering, and parts pricing is extremely difficult to beat. www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2000,mustang,4.6l+v8,1362743,engine,harmonic+balancer,5512 I wish I could help further, but hopefully, this gives you a good starting point.

Thank you for your reply. Someone had been inside the engine and there was evidence they had no idea what they were doing. I rebuilt the engine and installed new rings, crank and rod bearings, water and oil pumps, and new timing chains. The engine had two small gears on the crank along with a stamped reluckor wheel. The gears are raised on one side and concaved on the other. If I don't put the two raised sides together, the chains contact each other. When installed this way there's nothing to hold the reluckor wheel away from the chain and it allows the balancer to protrude too far into the timing chain cover. I ordered a one piece crank gear, I'm hoping this is the remedy. I should have the new gear in the next day or so, I'll let you know what happens. Thank you again!

I got the one piece crank gear today. I installed it and put the engine back together this evening. It works fine. That was the problem!

That's awesome! I'm happy it was a simple fix!

I'm hoping you can help me with another issue. The engine runs fine other than it's burning pretty rich. My problem now is with the hydro-boost. When I start the car, the brake pedal immediately pins to the floor and the ps pump squals . When I turn the car off, it releases and comes back up. My initial thought was that I had it plumbed backwards, but the lines seem to only go on one way. Have you had any experience with this problem?

You are right, I didn't. The grooves need to face away from the main bearing. If they are installed with the grooves facing the block, that is incorrect.

Thank you for pointing that out!

Currently, no, but I am going to be building an engine like that for my 08 Mustang.

Here are the part numbers for cam bearings. Not many shops do this machining since the demand for this work is extremely low. They do exist, but finding them is difficult. Dura-Bond Standard Cam Bearings FA-3 www.summitracing.com/parts/dur-fa-3 King Ford 4.6L/5.4L 2V Cam Bearing Ohc (Size 0.25) Camshaft Bearings titanmotorsports.com/products/king-ford-4-6l-5-4l-2v-cam-bearing-ohc-size-0-25-camshaft-bearings-3

Yes. There is a spacer plate between the engine and transmission that the starter goes through. The flywheel can not slip past this plate, so the plate needs to be removed with the engine, which means the starter must come out.

Thank you!

Thanks for the comment! More are on the way. I just need to find motivation for editing.

You can send the picture here via messenger. facebook.com/profile.php?id=61561838530644&mibextid=ZbWKwL

This is the exact tool I used in that video. shop.snapon.com/product/Ring-Compressors/Ring-Compressor-Set-(Blue-Point)/RC980 This one would be comparable from Amazon. OTC 4838 Piston Ring Compressor Set - 6-Piece a.co/d/5B92ZKi

Thanks for the information you do a great job thanks again

Which numbers are being referenced? Are you looking at the 22PI that is on the front of the heads?

Thanks for the comment! I am happy to help!

Thank you for the comment! I am glad you enjoyed the video!

Thanks for subscribing! Hope you have a great weekend as well!

Right! If only it worked that way.

That is interesting. I didn't know that. Thanks for sharing!

Thanks for watching!

Thank you for the suggestion! I will do that.

Aluminum 5.4 engine blocks do exist, but they are only in the 2011-2014 GT500 and the Ford GT. They are not paired with 2v heads from the factory. However, with these modular engines, any head configuration will fit any block. It probably won't be worth the money to make this change because of the rarity, but that decision is up to you.

@VZGarage360 Thanks alot for sheading some light on my imagination of my ideal set up. I plan on instilling in a 2004 lincoln town car executive L(1 year pre drive by wire throttle body)..good ol wire pull baby. I subbed.

@byronrichards3001 Thanks for the sub! That sounds like a cool build!

Part 2 hadn't come out yet, so the recommendations were set to most relevant for the person watching. KZbin's algorithm probably isn't always the best for deciding the next videos.

My pleasure!

Happy I was able to help!

@VZGarage360 I found my port but it's so difficult to even reach it with engine on the way. Looks like it melted on mine.

@angelmorningstar241 That's not good. I wonder if dropping the exhaust from the manifolds would allow for better access. If the drain can't be cleared/fixed, pulling the dash and heater box may be necessary. I have never done that with a Mustang, so I don't know what exactly is required.

@VZGarage360 I recently had the clutch changed and it wasn't acceptable even with exhaust out. The mechanic tried to pock at it but it's really melted down. He suggested to remove all front dashboard, but it's more expensive than changing the part. I appreciate your info and at least now I know, I won't fix unless engine comes off.

How can I help?

I removed my valve cover and found a piece of metal that broke off from somewhere. I can't see any place where it could be from. I was hoping that you might recognize it and help me figure out where it's from.

@@danielrolle885 Sure! I can't guarantee that I will know exactly what it is, but I will it a shot.

@@VZGarage360 how do I show u the pic?

VZGarage360 has a FB page that this can be sent to. Here is the link. facebook.com/profile.php?id=61551230604016&mibextid=ZbWKwL

I completely agree! Whenever I do these modular rebuilds, I only use the metal tensioners.

Thanks for the advice! I will keep that in mind.

I will continue to make more videos. Right now, I am working 12s at work. At this time, weekends are really the only time I can focus on video creation and editing. A new one should be coming out this next week.

I do have replacements, and what you saw was the boot coming off the coil, which is a replaceable part. The coil itself did not break. I will go through the old coils explaining the signs for when they go bad and replacing the boots, which essentially acts as a plug wire.

I will try to incorporate this into one of the next few videos about the Mustang. I don't have an eta for when, but I would like to answer this question.

@VZGarage360 thank you so much. Looking forward to it. I'm sharing your video so you can get more views. Thanks.

It is a GEARWRENCH 15 Piece Ratcheting Serpentine Belt Tool Set - 3680D. I believe I got it from Cornwell Tools, but it looks like you can pick one up on Amazon for $54.14 before tax.

Here is a link for this tool from Amazon. a.co/d/jiUaloi

@@VZGarage360thanks

Happy to help!

It will be very similar. Modular engines are fairly good about being pretty much the same between every vehicle they were in with a couple exceptions. The major differences tend to be with the 4V engines.

@@VZGarage360thanks

@@VZGarage360 What are the major differences with the 4v? pulling one soon, which is why im here xD

It really depends on what kind of vehicle. I have never pulled a Mustang 4V. I can only speak to a 5.4 4V Navigator and a 4.6 4V Continental with the transverse setup. With the Navigator, it has a 2 piece intake, which is a pain. The temp sensor was also in a weird spot. It was located on the back of the passenger side head. I didn't know it was there until I heard the pigtail snap while lifting the engine. You may already know about the coil covers on the valve covers, but it is worth mentioning due to the harness being hidden underneath. The intake area is really the only difference I have seen with the 4V. The continental is a different story being transverse. Slightly similar bolt locations, but way less room for hands and a very weird coolant crossover between the heads on the front of the engine.

@@VZGarage360 I see. I'll be pulling a 4v from a mach 1. I'll definitely have to go slow and be careful. I don't wanna mess up the harness for sure. Thanks for the info!

This engine was originally a 3V. However, I am making it a 2V with 3V pistons. The difference between these pistons is that the 2V is dished and the 3V is a flat top.

@@VZGarage360 that is pretty cool

Right now, I am unsure of how much it would cost to do the machining for these cam bearings. I will definitely share my findings when I find these answers. The machine shop I am going to has higher machining prices than other places in town. The work quality is much higher as well. The biggest wear point on these heads is the cam bores. The other things to check are the actual cam, the rollers in the cam followers, and the valve guide clearance.

Timeserts may be overkill for these, but I do like the comfort of having steel inserts. No matter what happens, using them a sparkplug will not come out. Plus, I get to save part of an ICE. That is definitely a good thought, though. Thank you for sharing!

​@VZGarage360 ...Nice tip/jewell to keep in mind when dealing with aluminum heads(steel inserts). So for me it will be timeserts all the way even if I'm fortunate to go with the trick flo heads. -Smart Dude

They are going on the 5.4L. There are some differences, but the nice thing with these modular engines is that any head will fit any block. That goes for every 4.6L and 5.4L using 2V, 3V, and 4V heads.

I have not created a video about an f-150, but the process is very similar. The top end intake components are slightly different. That is about the only difference. If you have specific questions about the process with an F-150, let me know. Those were what I worked on every day at the beginning of my automotive career.

Glad it helped

V.vbgb:😮😅bnb😅😅, S.

Thanks! The build will continue once this cold snap starts to go away.