That is awesome!

Hi Sandra, no you don't. You just need some method of electronic patterning input, unless you want to hand select needles.

@@heatherismakingstuff Thank you for replying back to me

Definitely try a thinner yarn and see how that helps. Fingering weight seems to be the absolute max I can push it without issues. Then make triple sure you have it threaded correctly and have the needle facing the right way. I also find to pull yarn through a challenge, I need to lift up the tension disks if I need to pull a length through, so that sounds normal at least. Also when you first start, make sure to hold the thread tail taut. After a stitch or two you will see it moving along and you'll know it's not tangled. It can get bunched up right at the start sometimes. Hopefully something there gets you started, it's so handy when it's working well.

@@heatherismakingstuff Thank you, Heather, for a quick reply. I definitely will try. Thank you

Nothing worked. I even lubricated it. It doesn’t form stitches just loops around. I really wanted to like this tiny linker vs round ones.

@@tatyana.mikina just to clarify it does just make a chain stitch, and it will only work with fabric - without fabric it will pull right out. So the looping may be normal. If you shoot me an email with some photos maybe I can help diagnose where it's going awry

@@heatherismakingstuff Hi Heather, I finally got it. After I switched to lace yarn, I didn’t use my swatch. It finally works now with the fabric on. I am so happy. Thank you so much. Your video is what inspired my search for this linker in the first place.

Interesting! They were produced in France and haven't been made since the 1980s but you don't see many of them in Canada either (at least in the part where I am.)

Thank you!

Mostly it just wipes off, and the remainder I cleaned off with rubbing alcohol (I use this for cleaning the machines most of the time.)

Du kannst es auf jeden Fall versuchen, vielleicht hilft es. Stellen Sie außerdem sicher, dass Sie das "Null setzen" mit dem Cursor richtig ausführen. Für Superbaknit setze ich den Cursor genau in der Mitte auf Null, nicht auf eine Nadel links oder rechts. Dies könnte hilfreich sein, wenn Sie meinen, dass das Muster korrekt ist, aber nur über eine Nadel verschoben wurde. Es ist möglich, dass der Cursor dabei zu nahe an der einen oder anderen Seite steht, das ist mir schon einmal passiert.

It is a White 1602, similar to Superba s48 or Singer 2310. It originally had the light scanning box but that was broken, and now I have installed Superbaknit.

Thank you for watching!

Thank you! There are manuals for the machines and most accessories available here: m.box.com/shared_item/https%3A%2F%2Fapp.box.com%2Fs%2Fdan9sb50rfei0o0umpok There are also some good blogs out there like Patrick Madden's at superbaknitting.com which are helpful. The Facebook and ravelry Superba groups are excellent as well

thank you so much!! this is super useful ❤

I don't think so nowadays, unfortunately most of them are missing the combs and they can't be used without them 😞. I am not sure if they were pricey when they were new either, but it's all solid metal and seems well-constructed.

For that you need to replace the old electronics with the Superbaknit hardware and software package. You can learn more about it at www.superbaknit.nl There are different versions available for the different kind of machines. It was a bit of a cost investment but I am very happy to keep my machine patterning.

Salut! Malheureusement, mon français n'est pas très bon. Je pense que si vous ne pouvez pas faire fonctionner Superbaknit, il y a une multitude de causes possibles. Si vous avez effectué le processus d'installation et de réglage et que le voyant LED clignote en vert quand il le devrait, cela peut être dû à de nombreuses autres causes, car la mauvaise chose a été sélectionnée dans superbaknit, le chariot n'est pas configuré correctement, le curseur et le curseur s'arrête non défini , et ainsi de suite. Si vous êtes dans le groupe Facebook des machines Superba, vous pouvez y poster une vidéo de ce qui se passe et je pourrais peut-être vous aider un peu plus, tout comme certains des locuteurs natifs français. :)

Hi Sophia, if you email me (heather.is.making.stuff at gmail.com) I can send it to you. Alternatively it's available in the vintage Kenmore group on Facebook. The copy I have is for the 158.18024 so it's a little different to the version of the machine I have, but there are only minor differences.

Olá! Estou bem obrigado, e ainda tricô. Tenho trabalhado muito e negligenciado este canal, mas tenho planos de fazer mais vídeos em breve 😊

Hi Victor. That seems to be a common issue with some people's machines. I would suggest to make sure the plastic tubing that covers the pieces on the carriages which slides in the rails is in good condition. It might be split or otherwise damaged. If it's OK, have you tried to add any lubricant to that rail where the carriage slides? I have been using Ballistol oil, but you can also use sewing machine oil if that's easier to come by where you live. I would also oil the flippers and moving parts on the bottom of the carriages (sparingly!), and the rail in which the cursor slides. Oh and the carriages are also going to be harder to push when the cursor is attached; make sure to move it out of the way when you aren't pattern knitting. The oiling does make things a bit messy so use as little as possible, but it should make a difference. You can also take a bit of oil on a soft lint-free cloth and oil the butt ends of the needles, and put a little bit across the bed behind the needles while they are in working position so it goes into the channels, and then run the carriage over a few times, then wipe any excess. Again don't use too much and make sure you have cloths handy to wipe off the inevitable "black crud" that will come off the machine if you accidentally touch the parts you oiled. Also, if you haven't opened up the machine bed itself and cleaned out the brake spring, you might be horrified by what can build up inside of it. I have one machine that I bought for parts, on which the needles could barely move in and out. I opened it up to harvest the brake spring when my main machine's was broken, and the needles were basically stuck to the bed with crud, and the spring was so full of fluff I don't know how the needles even moved. All of this resistance would make it a lot harder to move the carriages. I hope that helps a little bit. One of the things I like the most about the Superba is how easy and light the carriage is to push compared to some other machines. It's much nicer on the shoulder when you get it moving freely. Good luck!

@@heatherismakingstuff Hi Heather. Thank you very much for replying... I will follow your advice. Best regards!

I can probably do that! It's very easy to use as long as you've got the manual handy. Has a couple of quirky little things I often need to double check

@@heatherismakingstuff Im in the same boat and would love a demonstration. I already broke a needle trying to figure my machine out, sigh.. :/

Anything up to about UK 4ply (around sock weight) seems to be ok, but fine or super fine work best in my experience. The trade off there is strength. I had a very thin wool yarn that worked great, but it was really easy to break with just pulling it. A thin acrylic though is still pretty strong. I have used something closer to a sport weight (a light DK if you're not familiar with North American terms) once, but it was hard to turn and had a tendency to split the yarn. That could be user error, but because there's no way to adjust the stitch size, you are limited to what works nicely with that size. Basically anything you could knit easily on a standard gauge knitting machine seems to be best.

Hi Jess, sorry I didn't see your comment until now. Do you mean an e-wrap? or a double e-wrap perhaps? There is a way to do it, although it's not one I use regularly on this machine. The Answer Lady has a great video on it here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rHWulomwpJp3sJI

There is a copy here: issuu.com/superba/docs/gltc_manual_compressed I don't think it can be downloaded but I refer to it often!

This one is the more oval and less oblong of the eyelet shapes. I never realized it before but it's not round either. At 11:00 in the video you can see all the different designs. This one would have been the most round of them, lol. I didn't actually realize the template wasn't round until you pointed it out!

Ich denke, wenn Sie die automatisch generierten Untertitel für das Video einschalten, sollte es eine Option geben, es auf Deutsch umzustellen, aber ich weiß nicht, wie genau es sein könnte. Falls Sie die Bedienungsanleitung auf Deutsch benötigen, gibt es eine Kopie im Superba Vault zum Download. Sie können dies finden, indem Sie nach „Superba Vault Box“ suchen oder den Ravelry- oder Facebook-Superba-Gruppen beitreten. Ich hoffe das hilft. Sie sind großartige Maschinen, wenn Sie den Dreh raus haben!

Well I actually have a couple of blog posts about this very issue at heatherismakingstuff.com . Apparently the needles are becoming rare and hard to find, but I have a MacGyvered solution 😂

Yes you can! The transfer carriage will fit on all the similar double bed models. The only difference will be how the electronic input is programmed.

@@heatherismakingstuff thanks! I bought a second hand singer and don’ t understand the instructions.

@@silviatornabene2357 that's very common, the instructions are cryptic, lol. There is a very helpful Facebook group for Superba machines, as well as a ravelry group, and on KZbin, The Answer Lady has some very helpful videos on basic things like cast-ons that are transferable to any of these machines.

@@heatherismakingstuff cool, infortunately mine isn’t superba

@@silviatornabene2357 oh sorry - if it is this style of Singer double bed machine, they are all made by the Superba company in France. They branded them under different names for sale in different countries: Singer, White, Phildar, Superba, but they all work the same way. If you have the memo ii with the pressure pad input you have the right kind for these videos.

Unfortunately I don't know. It will depend on the kind of plastic, but I don't know the plastic they used for the ec1

@@heatherismakingstuff ok thanks. I don't know what kind of plastic either.

Hi Naomi, sorry I didn't see your comment! It can be quite thick depending on the yarns used. These yarns are on the higher end of what would be appropriate for this technique, anything thicker and you might end up with a really thick/stiff fabric.

Hallo, ich bin mir nicht sicher, ob automatisch generierte Untertitel ins Deutsche übersetzt werden, aber Sie könnten das versuchen. Auch eine deutsche Bedienungsanleitung gibt es hier: www.scribd.com/document/369307302/GLTC-Manual-Compressed