23rd Aug 2010

@@robertjones5395 Damn looks like it was filmed yesterday!

@@robertjones5395 Damn looks like it was filmed yesterday! I guess times didn't really change much then.

sure. i'll need an email, but will obviously not leave up here for long.

@@robertjones5395 hi Robert, just checking if you got my email or if it was removed. thanks

Hi, yes i did encounter a few problems in replacing the glass in the doors. I eventually worked out the only way was to drill out the pot rivets and dismantle the sections. The door only disassembles half way with screws, allowing two sections. I finished it, and then it felt over in the wind and smashed the glass, so I get to do it all over again! maybe i'll video what I do for you. but don't expect it too soon, i've got loads of other projects on the go. But I suggest that you purchase a pot-riviter set. best of luck!

Oh wow, blasted wind! I can imagine you might have cursed a little! A pot-riveter sounds like a top tip, I had thought that might be the only way though was hoping an easier option might be available. If you do a video I’d be interested to see it, in the meantime good luck with your other projects.

Thanks for the reply. I sort of solve it, but the solution is quite involved, and I know that the resolution has suffered. There are fairly good converters that are used in the commerical TV industry that can convert from PAL to HD. Its a hardware solution that gives respectable results - but is a compromise. I'm interested if you have an alternative - its worth a go.

@@robertjones5395 Hello there, ok my software solution is to capture the original PAL DV recording using Windows MovieMaker ( FILE --> IMPORT FROM DEVICE). This creates a large file though but it is at 720x576 resolution. I then use VSDC to convert it to a much smaller MKV file format. When I import the file that Movie Maker created it gives you the project settings. Here you can sit the width and height to be 720x576 if it has changed ( mine reverted to 720x540 I recall for some reason, so I set it back to 720x576. ). Once this is done you can then export the project. I would use the Ultra or high quality setting as normal loses some resolution. Let me know if that helps.

Yes. But that project is moving very slowly. I have plans for a different channel for those vids

Thants for the feedback, something I'm going to have to watch. Not used it much recenlty.

glad you like it. its been fun to do.

solardome industries

if you are happy to post up your email, once received I will take it down again to throw the BOTS off, and (once I've scanned the destructions - I'll send them to you.)

@@robertjones5395 Hi Robert,your videogave me the name of manufacturer ,so I phoned them and within minutes they sent me a pdf with instructions. Your kind offer is much appreciated but no longer needed . Thanks again, Nev.

@@nevillehooker1877 best of luck with you build. Be aware that this model have several revisions, and not all were reflected in these instructions! It become a puzzle for a while.

Thank you Ill look into this, its an option that would be very useful. Where did you get yours from?

@@robertjones5395 I'm going to put up a video how i installed it. But of course you can put it where you think is best. There is no manual with the sensor and the video i got from qidi was with a different machine, think it was i mate. Some people complaint about filament roll tangling on the standard place without the sensor and put it els where. I have not have problem with the standard place but the sensor cut out one time after 40 hours for no reason. I just hit start again and it resumed. I think it might be to much resistans on the roll. If that happens again i will install ball bearings for the filament roll. There are a model on thingverse with ball bearings. You can install the sensor inside the machine also at the second filament roll place

@@robertjones5395 The last firmware is very good compared what i had before. I can't remember there was a z compensation in the printing menu...but i can be wrong. It will change the UI to a new look

Do you have a link to the filament sensor you have installed? I can't find one. I'd be very interested in your video on the install process - thanks in advance for your time.

O vidro foi cortado em tamanho usando um modelo, depois inserido do lado de fora. Tiras de cobertura foram aplicadas nas bordas do triângulo pelo lado de fora, prendendo assim o vidro firmemente no lugar.

Well, at least you got it resolved. I purchased a new fan, and its back working well. on inspection the fan was rubbing in the housing, and on occassion stuck, which eventually led to the hotend nozel heat warming the feeder mechanism, which in turn softened the material in the feeder to the point of jamming. all good now. Best of luck with yours. 🍀

Yeah. That's a cheap little fan they use.

They are called coping strips. They have a t-profile(as view side on), they clamp onto the cross members of the main structure and over lap with the glazing on each side, and help to hold the glass in place. I also squirted LM glazers silicon sealant along the cross members on each side just before placing the glass into position. This ensures a near air tight seal, and no metal/glass contact, which should help towards removing the risk of glass cracking from expansion differences between the glass and aluminum frame.

For a closer look of the coping strips - see 18:12-18:35. The coping is in place on the frames and it shows that the gray/black coping. The grey material is UV stablised uPVC, the black edge is a rubberized material and is bonded to the coping are supplied. The rubber material forms a good seal on its own.

3mm float glass was used. The structure was designed to support 4mm glass. Dimension posted in the comments.

3mm horticultural glass/float glass. The structure will take 4mm. Toughened glass would have been a 40% more cost, and isn't necessary. I've had a football kicked against the side, and it was fine!

@@robertjones5395 , thank you very much. You have been most helpful.

Thank you! Cheers!

Mi dispiace, non posso accontentare tutte le persone tutto il tempo. Forse ti piacerebbe guardare qualcosa altrove. .

It was built over several weeks, but the frame construction went up is 2 days - very quick once you've traced and read the instructions (those took months to trace online!).

I wouldn't want to do this again - seriously back breaking work and so very time consuming. 108 separate windows - clean (6mins),install 3mins working flat out -very boring!

Thank you for this comment. I noticed the same behavior on my X Plus and was wondering if something was wrong. Much appreciation!

Thank you for your comment. I found this out after contacting support. The fan was also jammed at the time, and this fault masked the problem. I'll add some text into the background information which hopefully removes confusion. This video was in response to the support line wanting to see the issue for themselves. I never got the fan - but i bought on off eBay, and it now works fine.

It depends. I have printed a lot in the enclosure with PLA no problems so far. But there are also a circulation fan in this machine. It might help cooling the machine down inside. Two fans at the back of the machine

:) and I wish I had!

always best to measure twice and cut once! :) but in this case, all materials(except the glass was complete (mostly), and so it was more a jigsaw puzzle of find the right piece each time!

Buggles = Video killed the radio star (c1979).

Hi. Door still being repaired. Its a sliding mechanism, and I would call it wind proof, but not airtight. The seals are flush metal sections without rubber seals.

www.solardome.co.uk/dome-range/glasshouses/haven/

thank you for your kind words.

LM glazers silicone adhesive to provide a soft cushion away from the metal frame, then place the glass on. Then the glass is fixed in place by a glazer strip which clips onto the metal fame and traps the glass inplace. The whole thing is become watertight and the glass will not budge.

@@robertjones5395 thankyou 😀

좋은 말 해줘서 고마워.

I agree - its great - but you are showing your age! I like music from my teens - using them as backing tracks. Shame more people don't, but it prevents youtubers monetizing their channel - something I'm not too fussed about.

Thankyou for your kind words. I'm an amateur engineer in my spare time! :)

if I can find my instructions, I'd happily scan them for you. Be aware that there may be several variants of each model, and the documentation didn't quite keep up with all the changes. My instructions were materially wrong with some of the strut sizes, and by inference this also changes the glass sizes too, and led to a lot of confusion. I bought mine pre-dismantled. I needed 27 new glass plates, as there were some difficulties in the dismantling. If you are dismantling, then I would strongly suggest that you mark each strut with a numbering system with a selfie marker and take lots of pictures. Probably buy some new nuts and bolts (M4 i think, Stainless steel.). Mine needed new new seals as the old ones had rotted. and I have needed 48 tubes of silicone LM sealant for the glass. Nice project - -very strong, but needs a very level base! Take your time to dismantle - it will probably take 2 full days. The original family business that made these sold it onto another company, but many of the staff were retained. There may be some spare parts available for some of these models. Best of luck - kindest regards, Rob

And you will needs lots of glass cleaner and hot water! I ended up using Stanley knife blades to clean the muck off them.

@@robertjones5395 thank you so much for your response! I would be incredibly grateful if you were able to scan and send me a copy of your instructions. And thank you for all the other information, so very helpful!

Can you get in touch , could you scan the instructions for me too ?

originally came with the purchase.

Diámetro de 3,95 m. Área interna 12.25m2

@@robertjones5395 I make the floor area 11.3 m2, volume 21 m3. You did a great job of refurbishing it.