First time hearing any issues about the JST. I personally never had any issues and have not seen anyone locally that had any issues with the JST connector.

@@tjaymacRC i didn't experience those either since i bought a used car fitted with MR30s but that was the argument used by the people at my local track to justify the reflex/gl connectors.

ok.

Hi, I haven't replace any pressure plates. Two of my ball diffs have plates from over 10 years ago and I still use them. For shaft, I only use Kyosho Steel or Titanium. For hardware, I can use both Kyosho or Reflex Racing: hubs and plates. For Spur, I only use PN Racing. For diff balls, I am using Carbide lately to get traction. I put down 45,000k+ laps in 1.5 years. I had only replaced 1 set of ceramic bearings because they looked dull (not shiny). I haven't replaced any Carbide. I also don't inspect it, I just replace when I feel they're old. I haven't seen any carbide of ceramic balls get flat spots. They stay consistent from my experience. I don't have a guide but I did updated the description above where I linked all the parts that I use. Please note that you will need to modify the Kyosho ball diff to fit the PN Spur. I don't have a video or guide for that mod. Why Kyosho steel/ti shaft - Because they're reliable. It always stay true and you can play around with the weight (adding or removing) in the rear.

@@tjaymacRC amazing answer thanks so much =)

www.lemofoxminiz.com/

Thanks. I was already running the softest springs in the video. Anyway, I have the car dialed in now with the DWS, I am now getting the steering I need. This test (video) was done 3 weeks ago. Currently, I just finished making the DWS and Vertical spring conversion video.

Understeering overall. By that I mean the corner entry, mid and exit corner I have to back off the throttle more than I normally would. To get into the low 6.8's with this car on this video, I had to back off the throttle a lot to make tight lines. This was with the stock frontend (SA) which is the one in the video. My current setup has DWS (dual arms) frontend and rear vertical springs. This setup is doing 6.71 with multiple 6.7's. Its only .10 seconds behind the Mod's fast lap. It's fast! But driving the car to 6.7's requires a lot of concentration and a lot of tires! To get the car to Mid 6.8's, the car feels like the SA car doing 6.9's. Easy to drive. Appreciate that John, thanks!

The stock frontend (SA) like the one in this video, no. No needed work for both 2500 and 3500. Just change front tires like the RX28. Now with the DWS frontend that I currently have (not the one in the video), yes. But to be fair, I have 2 years and 7 RX28's. I only have 1 month with this MRX.

Not at all. Thanks!

@@BombaclaetWOW Thanks! What do you mean by make it go straight? They don’t track straight? Mine does.

Just raced mine this weekend and man.. what a difference the DWS has made. I also run my cars soft, and it helps bite the track so much. I ran mine without loctite to see what loosens up and found that those top ball joints are the main points that loosen over time. Overall, it was a solid upgrade. I would suggest anyone with tuning in mind for their MRX invest in the DWS.

@@tjaymacRC yeah google suggested to rebind mine

@@rgarage02 There’s no need to use RX28 knuckles. You now have the option to run direct steering. This setup by itself allows you to run the steering turnbuckles on top of the knuckles. This eliminates the active toe-in. Yes, great improvement for sure especially rear roll center. Less dipping in the rear with the conversion kit.

This is normal and most will not even notice it especially when your car is not direct steering. I only notice it because the cars that I have are direct steering (no servo arm).

Hi There! I haven't played around with the variety of optional parts for this car. I actually don't plan on doing a lot of that or this car will turn into a money pit. I did however bought other hop ups that I will eventually try and those are the: DWS frontend (Double A-Arm) Vertical rear springs conversion The aluminum chassis, Idk yet. I have a video this month that talks a little about the aluminum plate on why I'm hesitant to get it. Side wings? Nope. Idk why I need to add weight on the outside yet. When I get to the point that I need to get that, I'll try it but right now, the car is really good even with the SA frontend. The links will be in stock next week on Tuesday which is when I'll have a new video about this car with 3500 motor and lexan body. Appreciate that, thank you!!

Thank you so much for the quick reply! I’ll hold off on ordering anything then until they’re back in stock. Looking forward to the next video my friend

Appreciate that, thank you! I also post photos for specs, weights, setups and such in the community page in case you missed them. I think only subscribers can see those but here you go. www.youtube.com/@tjaymacRC/community

@@popitn2nd I don’t think so. Only very few are running this chassis and in California (South and North ), only a handful. I know I’m the only one with MRX here in Bay Area, California track.

@@rickzfpv3118 Hi Rick, Thank you! In our local track for Expert drivers, the Rocket 2500KV, Blinky ESC, 13/53 gearing is the Spec. It all depends on what is legal to your local track. So everyone in Expert class are running the exact same unopened motor. Novice and Sportsman can run whatever 2500KV motor they want as long as they’re blinky and 13/53. FYI. The Rocket 2500 motor is slower by .20 seconds vs PN 2500 v3 or v4 in Blinky mode. It is not a fast motor.

I wouldn't look to add more hop up on this car because the hop up for this model car is unlimited. Its going to feel like a money pit... I say figure out the setup with what you have. You should be able to fix that without buying that sway bar. I don't think the sway bar will eliminate that oversteer. You need to fix that oversteering first which I think is coming from your front tires. I would suggest to glue the sidewall of that existing tires you have. Or run low profile tires that are glued to the rims with flange type wheels. If that doesn't work, glue the sidewalls. Then set the camber to -1* and lower dual rate. Get the car running to where it understeers first. Find that tire that will understeer. Then slowly tune the suspension to get the steering you want. If you can't get the steering, this is when you want to change your front tires.

@@tjaymacRC how did you use the f1 wheels being they are for 2wd?

@@aaronbembry711 AWD wheels… www.kenonhobby.com/AWD-Wheels_c_387.html

Thanks for watching, Rick! Some drivers that won or came in top 3 in any PNWC are not allowed to run any AAA class in PN Rules and I am one of them. Because of this, I don't run or test any PN AAA classes. I do play with Kyosho brushless motors with AAA. Sorry, I won't be able to help you out on this but there is this wiring pinout that you can check out on FB from one of the mini-z group page: facebook.com/groups/722063711267613/permalink/2741978422609455/ Hopefully this link will help you out!

@@BombaclaetWOW Hi, I can send it to you via Messenger. You can find me in one of the Mini Z FB Groups.

Thanks for sharing.

Hi Justin, I can't say about their reliability yet but I did started tracking my laps for 2 of my sets and I will say that they still spin smooth like they did when they were new. I have only cleaned then with 70% isopropyl alcohol or motor cleaner. I also do not lube these because I want to see how long it'll last. Set 1: 3k laps (2500 motor) Set 2: 2k laps (2500 and 3500 motors) I don't plan on using in my Mod however. I actually don't use Hybrid or Full ceramic bearings in my Mod unless its a big event race, never in a club or small trophy club races.

@@tjaymacRC it will be interesting to hear about there longevity.

@@justinjames4969, I’ll a video about it in a couple of months. 👍

Yessir! I put 500+ laps per visit in 1 car. When I come back the following week, I want my car/s in tip top shape.

@@rickzfpv3118, Hey Rick, the MR03 non-sensored motor will not work with the MR04 board unfortunately. Only Kyosho sensored (MR04) motors will work with MR04 with sensor wires installed.

Thank you, Daniel. Yes I use Marka 15 Radials that are worn out (slicks). I started with used (semi-slicks) Marka 15 Radials because I knew the car (MRX) had a pretty planted rear end while I was putting the car together and I was right. I ran the same tires during this 2500KV with hard body test for 880 laps and I used the same tires to run in 3500KV with Lexan body and did 235 laps on it before I started to feel the rear loosing traction on corner exit, on-power. The part number is: MZR-V1RR15. www.microrcsyndicate.com/product/marka-v1-mini-z-rcp-rubber-rear-radial-tire-15-degree-medium-1-pair-/905?cp=true&sa=false&sbp=false&q=true

@@tjaymacRC Thank you TJ, much appreciated. I've been using Marka 15's slicks wonder if there is much of a difference between them. I will give it a try!

@@danielhorta8465 You're welcome and no. I don't use the Marka Slicks at all. They don't have any grip. The Radials are way, way better in forward traction and corner grip. 👍

I appreciate that, thank you. I have videos lined up for this month and two of those are initial reviews in the 2500KV & 3500KV classes and on both, that's exactly what I said, "easy to drive". Less concentration while driving this car is what I noticed.

Definitely. That day we did around 120 laps just chasing each other around. :)

@@tjaymacRC nice!

Thanks! Fun class, not too slow. About .50 secs slower than 3500.

@@tjaymacRC I will look at your setup sheet, is pinion size on there ? That is plenty fast 😀

@@CR3DT Yes, pinion and spur are in there and its 13/53.👍

@@CR3DT Thank you. I was using 13T Pinion and 53T Spur.

Hey Larry, Thanks for stopping by and commenting! Appreciate that! You already know how to reach me, hit me up whenever you get back in the Z game. ;) 👊

@@sylvestermilosevic Yes. I’m just waiting for it to come in the mail. I only want the DWS for ease of tuning and maintenance. I don’t know if there’s performance benefits. I mean there should be but we’ll find out. I only bought it for efficiency when servicing the car (turning screw vs removing shims, …).

@@tjaymacRC same here, I can't wait!

This is that video I spoke to you about in person. ;)

@@loopie007 thanks!

Appreciate that, thanks for watching and taking your time to comment. 👍

Appreciated that, Thank you! For self build track, that has good handling, I would highly suggest the Kyosho MR04. This car cost $210 and it comes with electronics. You just need to buy wheels, tires, body, RX and radio. The steering and resolution on this car feels nice and linear. Easy to drive especially with good transmitter such as NB4. Now if you want to give kit chassis a try, the car I would recommend is the Atomic MRX because this car is easy to tune and easy to drive. You don't need to buy anything for this car. It comes with everything you need as a kit chassis. Even comes with grease to put in the suspension and it cost $280. Next car would be RX28D, this car cost $360 and you will need to buy $10 Kyosho 30K grease. What you need for MR04: Radio, battery, RX, body, tires, wheels What you need for MRX: Radio, battery, motor, ESC, Servo, RX, body, tires What you need for RX28: Radio, battery, motor, ESC, Servo, RX, body, tires, grease To give you an idea on lap times: MR04 with 8500KV and AAA = 7.35 MRX with 2500KV and Lipo = 7.15 RX28 with 2500KV and Lipo = 7.10

@@tjaymacRC Thanks for all these info. I have a carbon Atomic, could be a AMZ (4 screws for mody mounting and a large red plastic piece in front, bought it second hand but was new and electronics are seperate and not yet built in) and well i want something better. I never liked the Kyosho Mini-Z as too much plastic and Model 03 apparently is the best, it got recommended to me, but that was 2 years ago. I'll go for the RX28, and for my collection a used MRX then ... and perhaps a MR04 as you recommended too. Many thanks :-)

@@evo165 Thanks Gary! I have videos of it lined up until end of Oct. 😉

Thanks! I'll have more videos about the MRX setup and modifications I did to it. Hopefully others can use them.

Thanks! Same here. If the 30K feels too thick, I would just apply a little bit as opposed to using the 15K or lower.

Rick, That's awesome! I had fun at RC Street Shop too when I went there last year. Hopefully I can visit SuperG this year, we'll see. I only use GL Racing ESC, specifically the Model: GL-SD-ESC-010T and also Blinky mode for 2500/3500/Mod classes. I use this ESC because it's been super reliable, never had any issues with mine except last week. My 17 months old ESC finally broke. The power button is stuck and I can't push it in to turn on anymore. Kinda bummed out about that but I mean, I put thousands of laps on that ESC so its ok and also, I learned my lesson to use my finger to turn it on as opposed to using metal tool. The tool flattened the tiny power button, it's really my fault and not the unit. lol Unfortunately, my ESC is sold out. You can try to search it. I bought one in Singapore and one in HK to put in my other two new cars. Hobby Wings are good too I heard. Only thing is that you must run sensor wire or it won't work. It won't work either if you use it with unsensored motor. The GL that I use works with or without sensor wire, doesn't matter the KV.

@@plusminussg I’m constantly checking my ride height and making sure that its adjusted to where I want it. I check around 3-4 battery packs or 300 laps during practice. In a club race, because I’m not racking a lot of laps, I don’t have to check the ride height.

@@tjaymacRC Thanks for the reply! I’ve had my Marka 15 radials wearing down to almost slicks in about 350 laps, is that normal wear for 3500KV or am I spinning the tires? Just got my SE coming from 5600KV MR-04.

@@plusminussg - That’s normal but you should still be able to use the tires if the track layout stays the same. If layout is new, you’ll need new tires. If track stays the same, I can easily get 1k laps on my 3500KV car. Here’s a video of my 3500 where I talked a little but about the body, rear weight and rear tires. kzbin.info/www/bejne/l6rdmo2jo9GXe5osi=CCwdNO82Oqqm4CG0

@@ChrisPanton a.co/d/0sJkqKb

Hi Chuck, I honestly have no plans on getting any 102mm cars or conversion kits. I never really ran this wheelbase even back in my Kyosho Mini-Z days. I never even looked at the conversion kit until now. lol It looks like the chassis plate was extended in the front where the electronics would sit. This is good because you don't have to loose the weight in the rear wheel. In the Kyosho days, the wheels/axle is moved away from the chassis when doing 102 wheelbase and this either makes the car rotate more (in a good way) or loose rearend easily. The RX28 conversion kit is not like that because the battery is still next to the rear pod with the option of moving the battery towards the front of the car to really fine tune the car's balance. Also it looks like this is for a hard body (Mazda 787B) so my guess is that you plan on running this in the 2500KV class? If so, then there's really nothing special you need to do other than run the same setup you already have with your Jomurema body with 2500KV motor. If you don't have this car, I have videos of my setup with the 2500KV motor - Jomurema body. Now if somehow you are loosing the rear of this 102mm car, you can add 2g of weight under the diff shaft where the mass damper would go. Only add weight if you're found the correct tires for your setup and you're already running soft top spring (pink). If you are understeering, shift the battery weight towards the front of the car and run green top spring. Sorry I can't help you much on this. I am not sponsored driver so all these things you find in my channel I purchased out of pocket with no discount. I do appreciate your feedback and commenting here, that means a lot. Thank you!

Thank you for watching!

@@ESTADOÉUMAGANGUEIMPOSTOÉROUBO Yes you can.

@@tjaymacRC What changes are significant for my mr03 is not EVO

@@ChrisPanton Welcome back to the RC world and in 28th scale! I too just got back into Mini-Z last year after 13 years. I don’t run gear diff on any of my cars. You don’t need to have gear diff. Its up to the drivers preference and I prefer ball differential because less time to fine tune, easier for me to service and no bent shaft! I only use Kyosho shaft for my ball diff: steel or Titanium. I still use a couple of my 20 year old Kyosho steel shaft and its still straight. I switched over to carbide diff balls on all my cars even the 2500KV car. I noticed that with the ceramics and today’s cars (Lipo & Brushless), the diff with ceramics balls would just slip on initial take off. In order to make it grip, you have to tighten the diff more than you would if you’re running steel diff balls. If not tight, it would slip. Its also takes some time to tune the diff with ceramics vs steel. With steel (carbide) diff balls, because you’re not over tightening the diff, you get more runtime before you have to service the pressure plates. The carbide is also heavy and its steel so it has a bit of “flex” or compliant so it grabs on the plates more than ceramic balls would.

@@tjaymacRC thanks for the great insight! Could I use kyosho 30000 gear diff grease in a ball diff?

@@ChrisPanton You’re welcome. No don’t use that. You’ll have to buy ball diff grease. I just use Team Associated and Kyosho ball diff grease. Can’t tell the difference between the two but definitely not that 30k. Its too sticky.

Here's a video on how I tighten the rear left wheel. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z3-Qq4lrnNp2kJYsi=y0LMfmQ9tHjENtk6&t=470