Reducers are only used for really thick wires that don’t fit into the amp terminals

You can do that too, but here in this example the amplifier has dual terminals so you can see that the positives are basically one positive split into 2 for easier connections

@@PincheBeto_Bass ok so I'm fine then I haven't tore anything up. Cause my box was divided so it was either drill a hole through or wire it all parallel outside the terminal to the amp.

I don’t recommend drilling a hole in your box!

What kind of subs and amp do you have?

@@PincheBeto_Bass I have 2 brand new type r 1542D alpine 15,s n a brand new hifonics Brutus 1600.1d monoblock. A brand new ground shaker box.

Don’t worry you’re not alone, this was all very confusing to me as well when I first started getting into car audio installation

You can use 14AWG wire, it’ll work but if you’re going to use it as your power wire, I highly recommend you buy an inline fuse for safety

This method uses both series & parallel wiring, series raises the impedance and parallel drops it back down

I’ve done troubleshooting before, I had a customer with the same problem his amp will shut off every time he hit a pothole, turns out his ground wire was loose and every time he hit a bump in the road it would cause the amp to shut off

Glad I could help!

If you crimp the ferrule it changes the shape and it will no longer fit in the terminal. That’s why you don’t need to crimp it, once you tighten the set screw, it will crimp the ferrule in place

Guess

You’ll fry ur shit lol

When you don’t use ferrules & heat shrink, there’s a few things that could go wrong. First thing is if you have loose strands sticking out from the power wire, if they make contact with any other wire it could cause a spark! That’s super dangerous because it could cause a fire worst case scenario. The other bad thing is that when you just insert the bare wire into the amplifier and tighten it, it doesn’t fully secure the wire in place and let’s say your amp isn’t mounted correctly, if it moves around while you’re driving that wire will eventually become loose and if it comes out it’s a live wire connected directly to the battery and that’s bad news

@ did you see a picture of my set up

I’ll order some next

@ send them to me on my instagram bro @ pinchebeto_bass

Yes, you can do that too but if you’re only installing a monoblock amplifier, all you need to do is tap into one speaker. But if you’re going to be installing a 4ch, then you definitely want to tap into all the speakers

Wire them the same way I explained in this video you will remain at 1ohm with the combination of series+parallel

Yes 🙌🏼

Yes definitely, but I just did this for a demonstration

Nice work, sounds like an awesome setup!!

So it looks like you have two SVC (Single Voice Coil) subwoofers. I’m going to assume that they’re 4ohms each. So if you wire both (+) together on both subs, and both (-) together, then to the amp you will have a final impedance of 2ohms

When it comes to impedance, the lower the ohms number, equals more power going through. This is strictly for subwoofers though. So if you want to get the most power out of your system, you want to get a monoblock amplifier that is 1ohm stable and then you can decide which subs to get. If you want 2 subs, get 2 DVC 4ohm subs and wire them in parallel to get 1ohm. If you only want 1 sub, get a DVC 2ohm and wire it in parallel to get 1ohm. Just make sure to match the total RMS watts of your sub & amp

​@PincheBeto_Bass if you got two dvc subs that are 500 each wired to 1 ohm; what would the amp be, 1000watts??

No he is wired in series/parallel which gives 2ohms if wired the way you said which is parallel it gives you .5ohms if you want to achieve 8ohms you wire it parallel/series

If you’re keeping the stock head unit then you need a Line-Output-Converter. Make sure that it’s tapped into a rear speaker, because if you tap into a front speaker then you’re going to have high frequencies going into your bass amplifier which will cause your sub not to play the low bass frequencies

Yeah, he should have wired them in series

There’s special crimping tools that will create a octagon shape, that might work but I don’t crimp ferrules since the set screw will penetrate it once you secure it in place

You can run 2 gauge wire and reduce it down to 4 gauge at the terminal while using heat shrink and ferules. If the wire is properly secured from tension before the amp terminal, the 1/2" area where you reduced to the 4 gauge ferule shouldn't be a heat issue. Are you running 2 Gauge right from the battery or is it from a distribution block close by the amp? If the distribution block is right there, and the amp has a 4 gauge terminal, the manufacturer designed it that way for a reason. The short run likely doesn't require 2 gauge wire. A long run the length of the car may benefit from a larger diameter but that could easily be reduced via a distribution block down to 4 gauge and negating reduction at the amp terminal.

False 2 subwoofers that are 4 ohm will wire down to half and when connected to each other it will be 1 ohm. a dual 2 ohm speaker will go to 2 ohm and cant wire down anymore than that due to them only being able to wire down to 1 ohm per sub

These are dual 2ohm subs, if I only did parallel wiring it would drop the impedance down to 0.5 ohms. But I combined both series & parallel to keep the impedance at 2ohms

Check with a meter

@@stckyjoey1 can't really do that because this is wired internally in the amp itself, but I've worked it out it's 1ohm.

As long as your subs are dual 2ohms you can wire them exactly like I did in this video and you will have 2ohms

You won’t be able to get 2ohms with those subs. You can either do parallel wiring both subs together to drop it down to 1ohm, or use series-parallel as explained in this video to keep the impedance at 4ohms

Your problem is Jensen trash that amp your better off getting any other mono block amp out if it has the god awful app your just gonna blow your stuff up it likes to go screwey with the gain settings and garbage like that the only option imo is the dumpster

Yes, but if you’re installing a 4 channel amp you need to tap into all 4 speakers in your car