Knowing more now, I wouldve just cranked this particular engine until it fired. I was hoping for a less volatile "starting fluid" and since it was mixed heavily with 2 cycle, i was hoping thatd help with lubrication while i used it for the initial start. The injectors were pumping Diesel, i just gave it a shot of the gasoline in the intake. Wont be doing that again. Lol

It was set on compression release in this video. My batteries are junk, got 2 good ones lined up for next time. Stay tuned, its gonna run. And im not even going to use starter fluid lol

I think they meant turned over 🤷‍♂️

When its a big ol monster like this, you gotta say "roll" lol I dunno, i mustve heard an old timer use that term before

I ditched everything past the H pipe and the car felt faster and sounded great. Then i bottomed out driving up a dirt bank and busted drivers side bank off. In this video theres literally 8" of pipe off each manifold and they dump straight down. Thats it lol Car runs terrible like this lol its been parked for a couple years now, ive been gathering parts for it this whole time. Got a trac lok posi for it, gonna try and just put her back to stock. This is the angriest, most violent car ive ever owned when its running right. Floor it through first and it runs up to valve float and just hangs out there for a second... Then BOOM it slams 2nd gear and gets squirrely lol. Been in my family since i was 12, im 29 now. Its an ex Iowa DOT enforcement car. My dad bought it just like it is. I love it

Are you crying?

@@171apples171 Are you on crack too??

It was basically out or very very low when i moved it. Lots of revving and slipping, had no idea the case was busted till the cab came off

I honestly dont know, it was bought for parts. We yanked the motor (5.4) after i took this video. I did still pull bellhousing bolts and starter. Torque converter and flex plate seemed to be intact/attached. All motor mounts, trans crossmember, and transfer case bolts were tight too.

Thank you, do you know how id go about decoding that kind of stuff? I love that kind of info. Just finished painting tins on the one on the workbench. Should have a video coming soon of that one

Ill definitely have more videos coming of these engines. I think I got enough parts to put 2 more together. I think i got a THD as well lol

Im not really sure, i was able to get by without buying anything

New Breed parts, or Busco Bullet. Both on-line

Thanks man, it was totally stock. I believe it lives on somewhere in a Ford pickup lol someone bought it shortly after I made this video

⁠@@171apples171I have one on my old 78 ford econoline motorhome. I just use it for storing junk. Think I’ll drop the pipe on her. 😁

I did put a link to your video in the description by the way lol ill look into that seal. When i turn on the water, it comes out of vents in the lower unit and also comes out the propeller, didnt notice any water from anywhere else

Yeah i got another one on my channel that i revived a couple weeks ago too, had a stuck motor. These are great motorcycles and are not too bad to wrench on.

@@171apples171 This is the 1st big Kawasaki I've owned for around 20 years, the last was a Z1100R Lawson rep, that I should never have sold. Anything with a 903 or 1015 motor has gone silly expensive here, 998's, especially LTD's are still just about affordable, but prices are going up.

Nice man, it cant be this one though hahaha its out in my garage still. Take hood care of it man, they're crazy valuable right now. Imagine what it'll be like in 10-20 more years

@@171apples171 oh I know lol I need some side covers tho and mine only has 7k miles

I point the cam lobes away from their associated valve and then take a measurement. Im pretty sure the manual has you put the engine in like 2 different positions to check all the clearances. So in position 1 for example, you can measure half the valves. Position 2 you measure the other half. I like my method better because they get done 1 at a time and theres less room to for my dumb ass to get confused lol

@@171apples171 yes it does say to do that for most of these engines from what I've read 1000&1100s. Thanks for the response. But so it's just not recorded when you either turned the crankshaft or back wheel to turn the camshaft lobes then right? I bought one of these for cheap with super low miles and it runs very well after I cleaned the carbs. No mods. It doesn't have a timing chain rattle that increases with speed it has random but soft ticking mostly over cylinders 1&4 and I'm wondering if I need to look in there. I had changed the oil&filter too but it was pretty clean at 3,132 miles I'll have to try to save it with a clean pan if I have to do a valve check right? I haven't bought either of the two valve tools that help get the shims out and I don't want to honestly. The ticking is only present at idle and disappears when throttle is increased or even raced. It starts and warms easily and I have it set to idle at 1,100 rpms. Literally a little throttle makes it go away. Any thoughts? I wouldn't say you're dumb though by the way lol.

I believe the cam chain tensioner stayed on the engine the entire time, i never disengaged the cam chain from the cam shafts. The engine was in time to begin with, just had to change valve shims

The tensioner is automatic so you can put alot of slop in the chain by pushing on it between the cams. This could lead to jumping a tooth if the tensioner is dirty/sticky and the plunger doesnt come right back out, and then you rotate the engine with the sloppy chain. You gotta try pretty hard to jump timing tho. I honestly think the clearance between the cam gears and the head isnt even enough to let the chain come up and off the teeth in that area. Feel free yo ask any questions, im not a master or anything but ive done my fair share of wrenching on these old KZs

My manual says to take out the tensioner before taking the valve cover off.

Should I put it back in?

Will air/carb cleaner go into that hole on your carb and come out somewhere else on the carb? Hopefully not. If it does, i would say something is probably missing. This is on a John Deere 300 snowmobile so if you need carb parts, theres another machine yo find them in lol good luck and let us know what you find out

Make sure theres a check valve down by your fuel tank. Thats a one way valve that allows fuel to flow towards the carb but not back down towards the tank. Also, verify your crank seals arent completely gone because this will effect the vacuum that draws the fuel

@@171apples171 The above reply is correct. Will it run on spray?

If its got shims, yes. If its got a little lock nut and set screw on the rocker, its easier lol

Lol thank you, im hangin in there. That legacy was a beast. No clutch left hahahaha

No problem, thanks for watching.i hope it helped

Shouldn't be necessary, the 1100s have "J" motors just like this one but different displacement. Hope this helps

I believe it was a stock motor, some headers would've made it sound even angrier lol

And thank you

@@171apples171 mines all stock too, I’m planning on putting a 268 comp camshaft In it with hedman hedders and a dual 2 1/2 inch exhaust with single chamber thrush rattler mufflers

Sorry just saw this. Unfortunately, no. I do still have the engine and all the parts in the video. I should just slam it together and use it in something

@@171apples171I’ll buy it if you finish putting the motor together if you can ship it to Alabama