We'd avoid it for a home sauna, as it will take hours to reach temperature. Stone masonry can be excellent for a public wood-fired sauna that needs to heat for extended periods of time. It would provide a very "soft", pleasant, and stable heat.

@@saunamarketplace ok cool! Texted you guys! have some more questions :)

We think it's a fad in Finland as well. All rigid foam is just plastic, and shrinks. When relying on taped seams they will eventually fail due to shrinkage. The ceiling above the heater is likely to exceed max service temperatures, and our understanding is these materials aren't meant to regularly come close to the max service temperature for extended periods of time. I worry most about public and apartment saunas that use FF-PIR that are on 24/7. That said, we know good builders that use it.

@@gooosedog Yes, if/when moisture get behind the new foil layer it’s trapped. Much better to go back to the original barrier and start there

@@pgreenx you can get it without the back window. We do factor in the glass when sizing the heater though so it will reach the same temps in about the same time either way.

Hey there! The simple answer is that it makes for a brighter and more inviting space. The key is to size the heater correctly to give the adjusted volume of the room. Each sauna heater manufacturer has a different formula to calculate "cold adder", and we pride ourselves on making sure that every sauna sold has the appropriate heater as a companion. Great question!

@@tblade28 in North America it should be outside, with some possible exceptions. Heat-tolerant AirIQs that can handle being inside are coming soon. Best to ask your seller, or check your manual.

@@johannaromer7856 Thanks! I didn’t use the spray foam on this build, although I did find out that it’s a super low VOC foam that meets standards for healthy use. I would imagine that it does help to seal any small gaps that might be present. The foam tape I would definitely recommend using, as it does seal the end walls really well. Thanks for the comment!

@@johannaromer7856 This barrel did not come with either the spray foam or tape. I would say that a rubber mallet is the single greatest tool to ensure that there are no gaps in your staves. Thanks for the question!

@@krakowsk Hey there! Great question. That’s exactly right. The more thermal mass that a heater has (I.e. stone volume) the more stored energy the heater will have. Because it’s a process of heating the stones to then heat the room, it does take longer to get the sauna to temperature. However, those stones will hold heat for a much longer amount of time, allowing the heater to not have to work as hard to maintain the temperature. The benefit to a sauna heater with less stones would be potentially a very small 1 person sauna. This would typically require such a small amount of power, that the difference would be negligible. Thanks for the question!

@@saunamarketplace One more question pls - do you think it's possible to use aluminum foil that was left over from installing underfloor heating instead of the one "dedicated" for saunas? Are these the same foils, differing only in the grid print that is supposed to help with laying pipes on the floor?

@@krakowsk it’s likely ok! Just check the specs and max service temp. Do not use the bubble foil that’s at box stores. We like double sided pure aluminum but paper backed is OK. Good luck!

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