Awesome! Thanks for watching :-)

well with how much water u use in these tanks i dont know if its always needed it does depend tho

So it’s a proportion thing depending on how much you want to make. If your “portion” is a cup then you’d need three cups. If your portion is a gallon you’d need 3 gallons. I did it by parts so it can be adjusted across a variety of enclosed sizes.

I got it from a guy called Jared Page. He’s in a bunch of the frog groups on Facebook and ppl just message him. I can’t remember exactly the charge bc I haven’t added any new species for a while but he laminates them too

Scotts

I break up cork tiles and glue or silicone the pieces to the whole ones. I recommend silicone as this viv needs the background partially reattached now (2 years later), but it’s currently empty and I could temporarily patch it with hot glue again and it would probably last another year.

@@EngagingEcosystems thanks! 🙂

Then you can’t flip it, you’ll need to keep it upright and use a mesh top to run heaters. I can keep them warm enough without added heat where I have the tanks.

@@EngagingEcosystems So, can't I just put them in the warmest place is the house?

@@little_robin I just saw that it’s hot in the summer too. You need to put them somewhere it will stay consistently in the 70s in the summer and not go below 65 too often in the winter. They are from a very temperate climate and too hot (extended time over 85) can be deadly. So if you have a place that meets this temp requirements, you don’t need to add heat in the winter.

Thank you!

Thank you! and thanks for watching :-)

On what?

Yes, I now have 4 frogs in this tank after quarantining two more not long after I made this video.

@@EngagingEcosystems Thanks!

It's glass. The light for the plants comes through, and my house is warm enough I don't have to add heat.

Im sorry I missed this. Plants don’t need specific grow lights. I’m using nicrew aquarium lights on these. I don’t use UV for them. If I ever redo their tanks I may consider very low uv as an option but it’s not absolutely necessary for these nocturnal critters as long as your supplement game is good. Obviously you can’t use UV through glass so it would have to be an upright tank with mesh lid.

With no see em mesh for the vent

Just the cheapest filler-type soil, no fertilizers added. I buy Scott’s typically, but any basic soil will work, just double check the ingredients.

@@EngagingEcosystems Do you have to bake it first? The only thing keeping me from going this route is that I heard you have to bake the topsoil first for a few hours and no thank you that is just WAY too much work.

So it’s cork tiles and cork bark scraps. I just glued it together and glued it to the back with hot glue which you can get away with if it’s a small tank and light pieces. Otherwise you have to silicone and wait for it to cure.

@@EngagingEcosystems thank you

Thanks! Holes in/behind the cork and a bit of hot glue. Just wait for it to cool a second and push the stem in.

Thanks!

No it's not okay it needs to be 80-83 degrees or your pacman will brumate and could end up dying get a CHE which is a ceramic heat lamp it won't cause harm to your frog like a basking light and they work better than heat pads

@@nocturnal_fangs thank you

@@englishwithashley Of course good luck with your frog! :)

I missed this somehow. I usually just use the basic Scott’s brand, but any basic topsoil that doesn’t have fertilizer added is safe. If it’s the cheapest it usually is just plain dirt but double-check the ingredients.

@@EngagingEcosystems Thanks. It has been a big challenge, as Nathan mentioned to try and source good, clean topsoil. I ended up using a soil from Ace Hardware (all organic and not fertilizers) but it wasn't 'true' soil. It had a lot of wood that's been broken down naturally, etc. I didn't want any soil that that had any moisture aids like vermiculite or perlite, etc.. Anyway, I ended using this Ace soil and I didn't bake it like I read from others and I now (yes, still...) have a big, annoying gnat problem. I'm basically going to take apart my vivarium, save the plants and throw out all the soil... along with all my springtails. I'll try and save the larger isopods, too... Now, I use Reptisoil (along w/ orchid bark, cocofiber, sand, and I also add clay so my inverts can burrow.

Gnats can happen with any new viv, but they shouldn’t happen in an arid set up. Usually in humid setups the clean up crew out competes them and sometimes the animals eat them. If this is supposed to be an arid setup, you may be keeping it too wet

Yes, same concept works for a 20 long as well.

Please reply

Well, paver sand is grittier and I would worry about possible consumption of small rocks. This mix is all small particles easily passed or larger things too big to swallow. Aquarium sand would probably be fine but it’s way more expensive as play sand is only $3-$4 a bag.

So first off, they are not too aggressive. I made a humid side by the water dish and I overflow it every time I fill it to keep that side damp. I do occasionally mist the whole tank which is necessary if you build anything out of the excavator clay as it keeps it from cracking. I just sort of eye that. I recommned Giant Canyon Isopods as they personally have thrived for me in much drier scenarios than others, but the dwarf whites have also proved themselve to be very adaptable. They will not bother your living creature. If it dies and you leave it in the tank, they might help it break down, but they don't eat living things. Another good clean-up creature for dry tanks is the darkling beetle, which you can get by just letting some mealworms pupate. My leopard gecko leaves all these alone for the most part, so I would think the beardie would too, but sometimes it's a matter of animal personality so it's always a good idea to have some isopods in a culture outside the tank so you can replenish them. Happy building!

@@EngagingEcosystems Thank you so much for you lengthy answer! I have been thinking about darkling beetles so it’s good to know your recommend them :)

Lowe’s. The cowboy charcoal. Any plan charcoal would do

Just play sand. And no, you don’t have to wash it.

I use the same one for beardies

@@EngagingEcosystems with soils, this is just a general question, should ones with Manure (sp?) be avoided?

I use top soil with no fertilizer from Home Depot mixed with play sand from Lowe’s

@@Curious.Badger I stay away from them.

right? Me too :-)

Yes. The dark brown ones are that color bc they are heat fused, no added glue. I’ve even used them in dart frog setups.

I just don’t water very often... and yes they grow directly in this substrate.

Hi Kora, look for my other leopard gecko videos, I did a two part follow up. But it’s use dark cork tiles from amazon. I said hobby lobby in the video but they stopped carrying them a year ago-ish

They can, however, they will not thrive this way bc they burrow in nature.

They should have soil its natural for them no offense but it is alittle harsh not to provide the right substrate just because you dont like it

Thats selfish, if you don’t like soil don’t get one. They are burrowing frogs they burrow for moisture, and they burrow to ambush prey, they’re built to burrow. But hey by now he’s probably dead

I also hate soil, but I face my fears.

I’m glad! Thanks for watching :-)

I agree

Thank you!

Engaging Ecosystems would Drylock work to create a little pond area? It is waterproof so I think I can just build up a little 2x2 inch wall that has a bit of water in it for a terrarium. Do you think this would work? I have a paladarium with a waterfall and I think it would be cool for the waterfall to go into a little pond before it hits the main part. Any reply would help, thanks

MH Aquatics would Drylock work to create a little pond area? It is waterproof so I think I can just build up a little 2x2 inch wall that has a bit of water in it for a terrarium. Do you think this would work? I have a paladarium with a waterfall and I think it would be cool for the waterfall to go into a little pond before it hits the main part. Any reply would help, thanks

The female auritas are supposed to max out at 5” where other species can get up to 7-8” but there’s different ranges depending one what source you look at 🤷🏻‍♀️

@@EngagingEcosystems It is true that they seem to get nowhere near the sizes in the initial field reports, with females nearing 9-10 inches, but I still think they are still considered one of the largest. That is why one of their common names is great Brazilian horned frog. They are still pretty new to the hobby, so we'll have to wait and see! Hahahaha.

Right? 😂

Nancy Chmielewski lol! A five gallon is pretty stable there. I wouldn’t leave it and risk my kids knocking it nor would I scape a bigger tank there but it works for little ones 😂