why it is bend

I have a similar led light setup in my kitchen. Do yourself a favor and get a smart plug for the outlet that powers the lights. Then you can tell google to turn them on or even have them timed to come on and off. Mine are timed but can be overridden by verbal request.

How wide are these cabinets

awful music

What is the size cabinet you used?

cabinets from home depot are no longer available

looks great-- great job!

why are you guys wearing ear protection when gluing and clamping?

Winner!

Great design and video -I was curious about the caulking used on the shelves before painting. Silicon acrylic latex? I also was a little mystified as to how you installed the led lighting wires. They're a great touch for a library. And yes, you need more books - this is more like a display case! Thanks - this is inspirational for our library room. ;-)

Only Plywood ki cost bta den ?

Great tutorial!

I wonder if it’s sway from side to side??

What was the cost for this all said and done?

"After creating the table I learned a couple of things that I would do better and those are on my blog". Lol, so this video is worthless!!! Typical KZbinr, to lazy to remake a video showing how to do it correctly. Thanks for the laugh.

Thank you for this detailed tutorial. I was able to replicate as close with some little tweaks. Thanks again.

Amazing can you do the video of how you did lighting please

Do the wabble test.

Amazing. It is beautiful. What is an estimated material cost? I see below someone said about $1,500 for them. Thank you. I will follow on Instagram too.

it is nice that you only use 2 power tools but I do get a bit frustrated when people say "this project can be done with only a drill and a saw and then they use a $100 pocket hole jig.

Paul what kind of paint did you use?

Bring the vids back Paul 😪

❤

Love 💕 this

I just love the beautiful clean simple design. Kudos.

You make it seem so do-able. Thank you so much- one question- I want to do this in my dining room, however I am not ready to redo my floors- but it's in the 10 year plan- so what happens when I get them done? Should I wait to build the shelves and get the floors done first? Or can I build the shelves nd have flooring done down the road? I don't want to wait on the building project.

very well-designed and meticulous, I 'd pay extra for such a carpenter's quality

Fantastic

How are you ever going to have anyone work on the appliances with both appliances on one pedestal. Can’t move it to get behind.

great vid thx you!

looks like none of these are available any longer

Beautiful work! Thanks for sharing all the details!

great job.

Awesome project

Great video and tutorial on building built ins. Nice job friend!!!

This is perfect. I want to make a bench with a space for cat litter box inside that will look nice and practic and this looks pretty easy

This is now my new hyperfixation for my sitting room and maybe even my bedroom. 😍😍😍😍

If you don't mind my asking ,,what was the total cost in making this?

Hey you from vietnam , that right ?

wow

weak table stand ,no brace 👎👎👎

I just changed my washing machine drain hose. I slid out my DIY riser to gain access to the back. No problem. I made my risers at least 12 years ago, they're still rock solid. Thought I'd share. Front loading washer and dryer. First you want a riser for each appliance., so you can slide each one without having to move both. I just slid my washer out to get access to the back. Any repairman will someday need to do this, and you want access to the back of the dryer to clean out the lint (a fire hazzard) and to reattach the hose when it falls off a week after the installer leaves. (It always does.) The room mine are in is very tight, just a few inches wider than both machines and the depth is just a bit more than double. If I pulled them both out together, I couldn't get in the room. Much easier to slide them one at a time. But the tight walls keep everything in place -- that might be a factor for you. So 1. Plywood bottom - easily slides on the tile floor 2. 5/8" (16mm) BCX plywood so not the best grade, but exterior so it can get wet. You could build floor with this. 3. Open at the front and back so I can reach/see all the way through. Solid plywood sides and top. (so a rectangular box open at both ends.) 4. Structure needs to be rigid and strong. I have a lip across the front and back this stiffens the top and keeps the washer from shaking off the platform. Half way to the back I have the main structure. This is a 2x3 (3" is the vertical) going across side to side, and two 2x3 diagonal gussets. Screwed to the sides and screwed to the 2x3 . Tip: The whole top sits on the sides and the sides sit on the bottom, so the sides are supporting the weight on the top -- not screws from the side. and no edges against the floor, just a piece of plywood. (when you think structure: could you remove all the screws and it would still all 'work'? It's how your house is built.) 5. My dimensions are 20" (50cm) high, slightly wider than the machine and just slightly deeper than the machine. The lip keeps the appliances from sliding off. The height makes using my machines super easy. Lower wouldn't. 6. My washer bucks like a rodeo bull. However, my appliances are so tight that I just wedge some foam in between them and the wall. If they had more clearance they'd probably move around more. You might have to consider that. If I did anything else I'd add a drop down 'sock catcher' shelf on a hinge under the front loading washer. We always drop a sock or underpants on the floor. Maybe about 10" deep (25cm) folds up out of the way. Doesn't have to be strong. Riser that are sold are $300 USD each, only 16" high (40cm) and are made from plastic. Will they last 12 years? I know my risers will last a hundred. I've built houses. And confession. Checking my measurements I discovered I actually only have one riser that slides. I just noticed the dryer is on a permanently installed shelf. Stringer/ledge screwed to the wall. Stringer screwed to the floor that holds the side. So only one side and the top -- but a stiff strong diagonal 2x3 brace. So I gain access to the vent hose and back by sliding out the washer. Hope this helps. The one in the video is good, but it's overbuilt and under attached. You don't need all that structure. The base sits on the floor. The only thing the base needs to do is hold the posts so they won't splay apart. That could be just a piece of plywood on the bottom -- which would slide when you needed it to, or those posts properly attached to the top maybe diagonally gusseted on the top. They aren't. Each top and bottom frame, properly fastened, could support 10,000 lbs (4500kg). Overkill. Unless this is a plinth for your 2000kg Telsa. Any floor this will sit on will support double that. So you don't need the bottom frame at all. (I have one 2x3 running across the middle, then some plywood lips/stiffeners on the front and back. 12 years, as solid as the day I built it.) The screw heads are buried which on these 2x3s is not a problem, but if you bury a screw/nail head 1/4" into 1/2" plywood your head is only screwing a 1/4" piece of plywood - you waste half your holding power. For maximum fastening strength you want your head flush with the top, If strong is more important than pretty? Leave the heads slightly 'proud' on the surface. But on the bottom you want to slide without scratching... sure bury the heads a bit. My bottoms are stretchers holding the sides together and for sliding. I could've used 1/4" ply. Those nickle plated mending angles is amateur stuff. If you're using them either it's your mother in law's garage and you don't care or you're missing how to really attach something. Don't use them. Instead learn some house framing techniques. Incredibly powerful useful techniques. That's why I know how much weight your frame could support. (There are some great KZbin videos on framing.) And the expensive cabinet grade plywood? You're never going to see it. Painting? Painting is nice, but spraying? Everything except those posts will never be seen. Sorry to be such a smug bast... hope this helps someone.

What a great project - love Hiro's videos, and glad he got to help!

You should start posting again man!! I just saw your amazon review videos and they are great! keep it up and I wish you the best in everything:)

How much did it all cost you to do that?

Niceness

Looks amazing! I like your boxers, by the way! 🥰

Which putty to fine flatten holes in the plastic? Nothing seems to stick on it. The surface must be flat, otherwise foil will cover the holes making them bigger.

Great job! I saw several videos of ppl making such tables but they were using many expensive tools and materials. And they were so pro that it wasnt even remotely possible to follow their steps. Your "tutorial" is the first such table "doable" imo by amateur. Thank you so much. I will try to do this table for my kitchen.

On my Second bookcase/ ent center build I have used this tutorial for. Great job, thank you for all the guidance