Concrete mix is quite different from repair cement. it has aggregate (stones) in it and has a different formulation. I would encourage you to use one of the repair materials suggested in the video and on our related blog post.

@@uvmextageng Got it, thanks.

It certainly could help. The mini-split heat pump (8:02) will do a much better job, though with higher capacity generally. These are generally made to run as heaters, air conditioners, and/or dehumidifiers. All the same guts. They just need to be set to run that way. I think the freezing Lissa is referring to is in the bulk water drain from the wash/pack tanks or sinks. A small (40-60 watt), GFCI protected, water-proof heater in the sump would likely address that. Thanks for checking in on the videos, asking questions, and providing feedback.

It seems hit or miss and mainly miss with that approach. A very thin layer of new repair cement / mortar (not concrete) over an older, exposed, and weathered surface will likely not bond very well. The point of chipping it back is to remove any loose, weathered, dirty and weak material to ensure a strong bond of the new material. Cleaning and etching may result in a satisfactory bond of new with old, but still with a very thin new layer over an old layer I wouldn't expect much life to it.

It's not a bad idea. That's essentially what the chiseling is doing, but you can do it by cutting if you have the equipment.

You may find the instructions here helpful: go.uvm.edu/handwashingstation

So glad this was helpful to you and your students! You may find some of the other educational materials and videos on our website useful as well. go.uvm.edu/ageng.

I don't see that it has any dislikes.

@@uvmextageng I use FireFox browser with an extension on it that brings back the dislike count - It has 7 likes, 5 dislikes

It is a Quikrete product. More info: blog.uvm.edu/cwcallah/2021/08/04/repairing-cracks-and-pitting-in-concrete-floors/. It is the item labeled "A" in the figure there.

Looking at the model in the video of the burier it says G25-170

@@JasenWoodworth thanks,…but where? Please post a time stamp, because I haven’t seen anything but the manufacturer and a few warning labels.

@@amandadavis9726 6:09

Top left on implement

@@JasenWoodworththanks,…I’ve looked for it every time I have watched this video. It just kinda blends in with the warning stickers. 😄

Hi Paul, thanks for the thoughtful comment. We work closely with regulatory partners including Departments of Ag and Departments of Health and also with auditors involved in voluntary programs such as GAP. In many cases, the drum is not a food contact surface and our intent is not to prescribe how the user manages that surface relative to sanitization. Sanitization is not required explicitly by the FSMA PSR which is what would govern this use (see §112.123(d)(1)). And if a grower was to sanitize the surface, they should do so according to the label of the appropriate sanitizer which will vary from product to product. We have in-depth guidance on this topic on our website. This video is intended to help with the cleaning step specifically (based on grower requests) and isn't intended to be a complete guide to managing Zone 1 or Zone 2 surfaces for any specific inspection or audit framework.

This cooler happened to be at 47F for this experiment.