I would need a lot more information about it to be of any help. You can send an email if you want to.

You're welcome. I'm glad when someone finds my videos helpful.

Yes, it's also winter in Alaska. I can't open my garage so that's my excuse not to do anything that makes fumes, smoke, or fine dust. I'm going to try to get all the doors on during the next week or so.

Thanks, I'll check the seats again to see if I can figure out where they go.

That's cool. I've been having low motivation issues lately, but I really want to make more progress on this project so I'm forcing myself to put in a few hours each week.

@nunapitchuk Tell me about it. My zuki is in a thousand pieces. Bodywork will do that to the best of us. 1/100 rule is king! Only set out to do a tiny bit of work at a time, and you'll suprise yourself with how easily you drag your behind to the garage. You will enjoy the work, too. Don't beat yourself up :)

@@ChilledSon Yeah, that's pretty much where I'm at, just a little at a time, one door then another. Ha. Good luck with your build too.

You make me feel spoiled for having a heated garage. The squeal may just be the belt a little too loose or too tight. Mine always squeals for a second or two right when I start it up.

Yeah, it can wait until summer. Changing the water pump is a much bigger job than changing the alternator. I still remember a few years ago when I would crawl under the car and then pop right back up. I guess those days are gone now.

They have normal threads, clockwise to tighten and counter clockwise to loosen. Sound like they may be over torqued. I hope none of them break on you.

You're welcome. Glad to be helpful.

Yes. It can be surprisingly difficult to explain to people.

Thanks for saying so.

Glad to be helpful and thanks for taking a moment to comment.

Need to be careful turning it before putting the crankshaft pulley on because it is designed to work its way forward against the pulley. I just spin it to prime the oil and then push the belt back in place.

Thank you. I'll have a look at it.

You're welcome and thanks for taking a moment to comment.

LowRangeOffRoad has them I think. OEM is at megazip dot net. There are others too, but I can't think of the names right now.

I greased the bottom ends of the shifters, but very lightly because I don't want them to get gunked up in there. I used valvoline full synthetic (because it gets very cold here).

Thanks for saying so. Yeah, I try to keep it real by showing some of my mishaps and mistakes, but I also edit out many others.

Thank you for taking a moment to say so.

Glad to be of help and thank you for taking time to comment.

You must be using a computer translator. It is not working well.

I'm not sure what you mean by "connect the cooling lines in different hose". The type of hose/tube needs to be appropriate for use with hydraulic oil. If you are asking if it matters which outlet on the radiator the hose ends connect to then I think it doesn't make any difference.

The coolant temperature sensors are in the thermostat housing just below the thermostat. There are two or three. One for computer, one for dash temperature gauge and one for air conditioning system.

You can get a pdf version from my manual. Here is a link to my files: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1YgMaDXtB83Dt5Us9iiEhnqJgXK2py-t6?fbclid=IwAR31xSppDDiqL2-X4ZFL7eymf_HIft2IHtaVEEgLSkSCMzXz-kjEd1VnC5s

Yes, it was used in a few different cars.

Sorry, I've only removed these parts after taking the engine out of the car. The bolts on the main valve would be difficult to get at with it in the car, but doable. All the other components should be easy to remove.

Glad I could be of help. Thanks for the positive comment.

You're welcome, easier to clean and test if you remove it from the engine.

@@nunapitchuk Thanks alot! I did a cleaning on the engine, have seen some carbon buildup and cleaned one side, but its hard to reach the other side without removing it. Gonna make it work! Thanksss

@@ruancarlodop You have to remove it to clean properly. Many little nooks and crannies in there. I used a lot of q-tips and wd-40 on mine. I recommend ordering or making a new gasket for it.

Yes, I found the ashtray light, but I just could not figure out where it goes. Don't see any attachment point. Right now I just have it pushed in behind the ashtray.

Yeah, it took a long time, like one of those 1000 piece puzzles.

@@nunapitchuk I never want to try to put one together 🤣

@@CTMadModz Ha, ha.

I fill the boiling pot up to about a half centimeter below the top of the jars. Water does not get in even though the lids are loose. It is not a problem. After boiling slow for five hours the water level drops to about one third level on the jars.

@@nunapitchuk thank you

Please explain how it is impractical. I spend about $1.25 per can total compared to over $10 per can at the store. That seems like a lot more than "a couple bucks" to me.

Thanks for saying so.

Ha. Thank you.

Thanks for saying so. I do enjoy being helpful.

Wiring for the headlights is different from the rest of the wiring. The lights are connected directly to +12V and to the switch. The switch grounds the circuit. So if you measure any of the connectors to the lights they will show battery voltage. I made a schematic for it on my face book page: facebook.com/SidekickRebuild/

Adding glass to dip is an urban myth. No one would really do that.

Thanks for saying so, and you're welcome.

Yes, it would have the same effect of raising the pH level. The purpose of raising the pH is to increase the rate of nicotine absorption. Doesn't seem like it would taste good though.

@@nunapitchuk Thank you so much!! I'll definitely be using backing soda.

@@MohammedAllali-w3o Give it a try. Note that baking soda is sodium bicarbonate. You can easily convert that to sodium carbonate by heating it in an oven. Sodium carbonate is what most people recommend.

@@nunapitchuk Thanks for the helpful information! I'll definitely try it out. Take care!

Ps there also doesn't seem to be any suction on any of the tubes I disconnected while the engine was running. After testing the diaphragm and disconnecting the tubes there was no suction anywhere and the engine didn't stall or anything either.. I also took off the EGR and cleaned it thoroughly the diaphragm seems in good condition and the inside is also very clean as well, new gasket when out back on etc. the part itself seems in good working condition. It's just throwing a code and no suction anywhere?

I just took all the tubes off and cleaned them one by one while running. And they were all clean. Also no suction. I followed all of the small tubes, both paths,( rubber and metal) from the EGR to the top of the engine and they were all clean, no clogs at all, I blew through the one at the top of the engine with the small rubber hose and I could push air in and suck air out of all the small hoses. No vacuum at all at idle. I did not test the larger hose at the bottom of the EGR to the lower part of the engine. Is there supposed to be vacuum at the top hoses, at idle? , and why if they are not clogged is there no vacuum at all?

Uhm... Seems like two different things. First the vacuum ... There has to be vacuum or the engine wouldn't be running. If you pull off the vacuum tube to the solenoid valve on the front there won't be vacuum because the valve is closed. If you pull off the short little vacuum tube from the intake surge tank to the solenoid valve the idle speed should increase a little and if you put your finger over the hole to the surge tank then you should feel a little suction. If not then the intake surge tank is probably all gunked up on the inside. If you press the diaphragm open and nothing happens at idle then I suspect the passage through the head to the exhaust is clogged up and/or the large metal tube from the EGR to the intake surge tank is clogged. Unless you don't have that tube in which case all the little EGR ports on the intake manifold are clogged up. My understanding of the check engine light for the EGR is that it is a temperature sensor on the EGR valve with a 2-wire connection. If it isn't connected then you get a light or if the temp reading is high you get a light. I think you can get rid of the light by unplugging the wire putting a resistor across the 2 ends, but I can't remember what size resistor to use. If it was me then I would remove the whole intake plenum (assembly) and start cleaning. It is probably full of gunk and the port to the exhaust is probably plugged with burnt gunk. I'm assuming it has never been cleaned. Go to my face book for more chat: facebook.com/SidekickRebuild/

@@nunapitchuk thanks. I took off the plastic cover to access the metal wire for throttle, pressed on it while running and a vacuum then formed that was noticable. And then I took off the metal tube, it was 90 percent clogged. I cleaned it, and still the same problem. I'm pretty sure the inside of the intake manifold in the engine is clogged. The engine light is being caused by the thermoprobe. Probably caused by temperature. It's a California model. I'll have to bypass it with the resistor. I looked at a video of where you cleaned the intake manifold. I'm pretty sure that's what I'll have to do. I've just never taken that off before.

@@nunapitchuk is there a video of you taking off the intake manifold? I seen the one where you clean it once off. Are there gaskets that need to be replaced during the removal and reinstallation, and while off and cleaning, are there other things you would recommend doing while it is all apart. Like maintenance or replacement of other parts in or around the intake manifold. Are there other parts I should check or clean while I have this apart. I've been driving this geo tracker for over 20 years and I've done a lot while I've owned it to keep it running. I've always relied on helpful videos and posts from people like you to keep it running, so I appreciate your videos they are very informative and easy to understand and follow. So thanks again. Also are there any additives you suggest to keep the engine and the valves protected. I use Lucas. And high mileage synthetic oil now.

Glad I could help.

Good luck with it. If I can help you can contact me on my face book page: facebook.com/SidekickRebuild/

I haven't actually tried it, but two ways I have thought of is to use a strong mint tea instead of coffee in this recipe or the other would be to use this recipe, but add a few grams of ground up dry mint leaves to the mix. I guess you would just have to experiment.

It is a large size wire to the battery, white I think, that has a round copper end for going on the alternator bolt.

The service manual has the names of all the parts of the shaft assembly and drawings. Here is a link: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1YgMaDXtB83Dt5Us9iiEhnqJgXK2py-t6?fbclid=IwAR31xSppDDiqL2-X4ZFL7eymf_HIft2IHtaVEEgLSkSCMzXz-kjEd1VnC5s

The power steering pump takes some power from the engine to make steering easier. You can still steer the car fine even if the power steering pump is disconnected. It will just make it stiff to turn. I think you are completely safe driving it to the mechanic shop even if the steering pump is making noise.

@@nunapitchuk Bless you and thank you so much for your reply. I really do appreciate it. Thank you!

@@nunapitchuk Just to give an update. Took my car in at 9am. Got a call at noon to say ..... it had passed its MOT. 27 year old car sailed through! I couldn't believe it. A few advisories - mainly corrosion underneath but not bad enough to need work now. No problems with steering. My mechanic checked it and said the pump and something else were 'damp' but he topped up the steering fluid and the noise stopped. He couldn't see any major leak, and advised me just to check levels (showed me how to top up and also the little dipstick thing in the tank). Said just to monitor it, but wasn't concerned. Obviously if work needs doing further down the line, I will get it sorted, but he was happy - just said keep an eye on it and call him if any problems.

@@Jenjenilou Very good news indeed.