@@chandlernelson1095 try "HELLA 007794041" from Amazon.

@@chandlernelson1095 you can also search for "12v relay with diode" on Amazon or fleabay.

@@chandlernelson1095 I always grab a few relays and fuses from junkyard

@@Ultralightfishingislife 1x1x.125 aluminum square tubing

@@Ultralightfishingislife you can use 1x1 c-channel as well but make sure it's .125 thick. I used what ever I had laying around.

@@omieyouknowmethanks my drive finally came in now I just have to get it rigged

@Ultralightfishingislife nice. I went back to an oar for steering. Carrying the rudder and setting it up got cover some. I'm also going to glue on two small 2-4" sup board fins to each of the pontoons to help keep it tracking straight. In wind it gets blown like any other inflatable

@ that’s a good idea with the fins

I sold this boat and motor last year. See if I can write this up There are many ways to do this, mine was probably the most complex way but it allows the motor to run without a battery. If you don't want to deal with diodes and can accept that you need a battery to run motor now, (all larger motors need battery) then follow along Theory of operation: Use the positive and negative terminal from ECU where it goes into pump and run it into a standard 12v relay. The relay will take negative line from engine block and carry it to the pump. The positive wire you will carry from battery post on motor thru a 10amp fuse direct into pump. When you start motor, the old fuel pump wires will simply close the relay and allow negative side to go into pump. Installing On the pump, You will identify which wire is positive, (common wire used for injector and coil) peel back the tape around both wires at the connector, cut those wires near the connector leaving behind enough wire to splice in more wires. Splice in a positive wire on the connector side that goes to oump, run it thru a fuse and to the battery post block on motor. Splice in negative wire from the connector and run it to the relay, pin 87 on relay. Plug connector back into pump. Now run a wire from pin 30 from relay to ground stud on motor. Now take the wires from ECU that are dangling run positive wire to relay pin 86 and negative wire to pin 85. When you start motor now, ECU will close relay on pins 85/86 and run pump off battery by closing pin 87/30 with ground wire. The fuse should be a 10amp no bigger. 7.5amp would be ideal but 10 will do. If you want to run motor without a battery then it involves diodes and combining the two positive lines.

Thank you so much when I said dummy down you knew exactly what I meant , did you ever have anymore problems out of it?

What Amp relay did you use or recommend

@hunteradams7004 the only other issue I had was a fuel restriction. A piece of fuel line broke off from before the VST tank it lodged itself in the needle seat inside vst. Motor would run fine at low rpm but anything above 2500 it would die. Fuel starved because the low pressure pump could not fill the vst tank with needle being restricted. Easy fix remove vst cover blow backwards into fuel line and it blew out the old fuel line. Though it was hard to diagnose

Would it run fine for a few minutes with the fuel line clog or always bad? And what AMP relay do you recommend? Thanks so much gonna do this today and test it out

@@williammccrary-b8i hmm there is a previous video for the how to

@@SherriHulet catching same amount of fish actually. Difference is not dealing with any vibration on my lines and messing with motor. I also like that when bass fishing I can move boat quickly using kicker hand throttle vs bow mount.

@@beesboys it's about 1.8kw. Or 30ah

@@Im_M_Kell_6514 I am really surprised on how well it runs considering how little I put into it. I may build a bigger one now.

@@whwoods your positive wire on fuel pump should still work. I'd ask him to use that line as a trigger for a relay instead of switch on dash. That way pump turns off when motor is not running. You can still have the dash switch as main kill switch, just send line that to a relay and trigger from existing fuel pump positive line.

@@mitch7.3powerstroke81I bought a new pedal from a gasser f250/350 it has the mechanical fork for a cable.cable want to say was factory cable on pedal side and I went to ace hardware for ball ends for motor side. the factory pedal is a electronic potentiometer. It won't work with throttle cable, but if you do a newer common rail they can use it.

@@omieyouknowme thank you very much I appreciate it.

@@danlaetsch8493 good to hear. I took my rudder off it became to much to drag to water. I just use that plastic oar with one hand next to one of the tubes and it steers fine at slow speed. Will see if I put it back on. You should also consider some small fins glue them to bottom of tube just aft of seat for directional stability otherwise it likes to wonder and making minor corrections ALL the time gets old

@@ISeeDeadGamers I will say I does what I need. The metal case is heavy and overkill. The BMS is doing a good job of managing over and under voltage for me. I'm using a 50v power supply to charge at 10a takes a good 4 hours from 35v to 49v

I just saw your reply down below. Use a positive trigger instead.

@@shawnkeenan2576 yes. The negative is usual what failed. If you supply pump with 12v from external battery and motor runs, your ECU is still ok. The positive trigger can still run the relay and still provide some amps as well to pump if you use a diode. If you just want to run pump off a battery then use the positive trigger for relay only and call it good.

@@nicktr823 can search for 20SQ045 diode made by tnisesm. The relay is there to take the load and is a means to turn off the pump when engine turns off. Highly recommend you use a relay to run pump. It's a safety feature too you don't want pump running with motor off. The diodes are there so ECU is not starved of current. If motor is running the ECU will always have enough current to do it's work and excess is sent to pump. The pump will then draw the rest of the current from battery or elsewhere. If you don't have a regulator charger on manual start motor you can just run off a battery. Your battery size will limit how long you can run so if you use a 50ah lithium battery expect 8 hours then you charge battery again. If you tie the battery to fuel pump power as shown in my diagram with diodes you can double that run time. If you add a voltage regulator on battery side your run time now is based off fuel instead. I would recommend you use fuel pump wires from ECU to trigger a relay. Where the relay gets it's power is up to you.

@@everestinspections9088 this is how majority of efi systems run fuel pumps. Should last longer than pump. Motor was sold with boat

@@judeatkinson1049 you have to upgrade the main board in the base unit regardless if doing a v2 ipilot or terrova. The board in the base for terrova is quiet a bit more expensive which allows foot pedal. Oh the head unit for terrova is also more expensive. You honestly are better off buying a new terrova by time you add up parts. Hence I just did v2 board and head unit. I don't use foot pedal enough to justify that cost

@@omieyouknowme thanks for the reply

@@canadiangemstones7636 thanks. More stable than any pedal kayak. Not as fast but works. Ditched the rudder and just the oar to steer like old ships

@@TAfidler79 sounds like you have the older auto pilot v1 board. Do not know what the other two wires with heat shrink is for. You should not be cutting any wires. What are you trying to accomplish? You don't get foot pedal and Bluetooth steering with my write up. This is for the newer models

@@VHarel-mt6yi i used a bldc motor off Amazon. Just a 2kw brushless motor with bicycle control. 2x2x1/8 aluminum angle and 2x4x3/8 aluminum for motor base A 1" dia 1/8" aluminum round tube as coupler which was cut then hand drilled in drill press for two different diameters of motor and electric motor. Then tap it for four o 10-24 set screws on it. The rest is a up to you how you assemble. Add a dpdt switch for speed high low. Another switch to tap into 5v ref wire if you want to control throttle.from hand switch or pot. Finally battery, that is the biggest cost. My cost to build this was under 500$ with battery, as I had the motor already.

@@malcolmlund7938 their low amp pump is same as regular pump. I measured current at 40 psi.

How could someone find and get the low current pump? Do they have to request it from the vendor on Amazon, or does the vendor have it listed on Amazon separate from the high amp pump?

@@malcolmlund7938 there is no low current pump on Amazon or eBay. It's all the same pump. Low current pump is OEM from marine dealers and they run 600$ and up

@@plapnab if it turns with autopilot but not foot control i would start with the plug from foot pedal. Make sure those contacts are clean. Use a small screw driver and close the pins on female plug so it make better contact with foot pedal. If that does not help trace the wires from plug to foot pedal switch, see if there is a break. I'll try to find diagram for old connector. Old foot pedals are expensive

@@omieyouknowme yeah, tried that as well. I think either the motherboard is bad in the pedal or the motor. Bummer.

@@plapnab if the motor turns with autopilot then steering motor and main board is fine. I'd look at foot pedal contacts, you can see the traces and if there is a break just cut out the sealer solder a jumper and rtv it back. The switch just sends a low voltage signal, should have a 5v if I recall that it sends.to board and steering motor.

@@omieyouknowme Everything looks good. Even took the motor apart and all the connections look good. There is one short white wire that comes out from under one of the capacitors that’s not connected to anything…maybe a ground?? Don’t see anything that it would be connected to. I think something inside the foot control motherboard is bad. Would be nice to know for certain before I start buying stuff.

@@adamviklund6574 your symptoms are exactly same as mine. The high pressure filter was clean as well. My original pump was dead when I purchased the motor. The pump was seized, it had sand in the impellor. I would assume that trying to start the motor with pump bad pump had caused high enough resistance that I fried the negative driver in the ECU. I am not shocked how fragile this design is, would have used a fuse at min with original design to blow if pump has instructions and causing higher Amperage draw. Good luck to ya. I sold this motor and boat last year.

@@omieyouknowme Thanks!!! Now that you mention it I saw some sand at the plastic thingey at the bottom on the original pump (where the filter sits) I bet there was sand in the impeller. Well then I think I have my answer. When I crank my engine I also (sometimes, it kinda comes and goes) get intermittent beeps and flashes on the engines warning light. According to the manual indicates ""Water temp or MAP sensor out of range". I assume the MAP sensor is reacting to the lack of fuel??

@@adamviklund6574 map sensor measures elevation for the first split second then it measure vacuum inside intake. It's used to measure how much air goes in then ECU applies fuel based off map sensor throttle position to achieve best air fuel mix. Basically a carb but computer compensates.for elevation and temperature too. The two initial beeps are oil pressure I believe, because the motor is not turning enough to open that switch. It's set to 5psi only. You can prob disconnect that switch ground it or open it and crank to verify.

@@trevorcothran3273 use the positive wire from ECU to trigger a relay to run pump. If motor shuts off it will open the relay and shut off pump. This is how it's done on all efi systems

@@trevorcothran3273 no. But if there is emergency you need to be able to kill it or fuel will keep pumping

How would this work on a manual start

​@@omieyouknowmehow will this work on manual starr

@@John-p9z2y yes. But you have to install a voltage regulator first. Look on starboard side of motor for the three yellow wires. If present buy the voltage regulator and add it. Use the output from it to run pump and charge battery. The OEM are pretty expensive but aftermarket will work as well.

​@omieyouknowme is that a adjustable time delay relay ?

@@trevorcothran3273 ya. But it's 600-700$ if it fries ECU you won't be on the hook hopefully

@@jakeunderwood2247 you can only use one either the pedal or remote. Can NOT use them together all this switch does is allow you to plug one in and use it without having to take apart the entire unit and switch wires inside.

⁠@@omieyouknowme just got mine done today. Wish I could post a picture of my switch.

@@malcolmlund7938 no other way around. All aftermarket pumps draw to much. Not paying 700$ for OEM pump. I modified the relay to drive aftermarket pump instead

@@omieyouknowme thanks so much - really appreciate your guidance!

@@omieyouknowme I wonder if Quantum is aware of this? Hopefully they would FIX it. People could get the word out by leaving comments on Amazon, and maybe the Quantum website feedback.

@@malcolmlund7938 I contacted them about this issue. Believe they updated their site to exclude this motor. Believe all aftermarket pumps come from same factory in China and just get different labels.

@@mick9850 knock on wood no issues. I have the larger remote and the mini. I find myself using the mini more often than the larger unit with LCD it does not have all features but spot lock and autopilot is all I use. I have rebuilt quiet a few lower units too from water getting into amature. Usually from bad o-rings that freeze and crack. I make sure to tilt and drain water from lower unit before stowing. The amateur are usually fine a little Emory cloth on copper and bearing surface good cleaning with new brush. I have had a few motors that would not seal not matter what I did. New oring was supplemented with clear silicone was final answer

@@michaellawson-j5z this is how it's normally done on cars trucks and larger outboards. For the smaller ones that can run without a battery, a capacitor is charged on the first pull to provide the 12v supply for everything. That same charge powers the ECU which in turn grounds internally for pump idle injectors ect. If you run these motors off a battery, yes you can just ground a relay, but most people buy the smaller motors to run battery less. My circuit still allows a battery less operation by taking excess amps from the charging circuit for pump.

@@dannyunger1618 yes. You are effectively disabling the head and going back to foot control with a switch vs taking apart the entire unit to rewire inside.

No red light or beep tells me either there is a short in brown wire telling ECU to shut off or ECU itself is not getting enough juice from the stator to power up. Check the brown wire at ECU connector with ground make sure it's not grounding while you move tiller handle. Then I would look at the big connector for ECU stator on starboard side of motor if it's lose. The yellow plug is for battery charging the black one with white wires is what provides juice for ECU from Stator. Stator rarely go bad but lose connections can cause intermittent issues. Finally ground the oil pressure line that goes to switch. Low oil pressure will reduce engine rpm should not prevent a start though This electric start?

@@omieyouknowme yes it is electric start. When the red light and beep happens it will run fine and crank all day but after sitting over night takes forever to crank. Thanks for getting back with me. Much appreciated

@@GarrettGolden-z1s so it may be stator then not building up enough of a charge to wake up the ECU and power it. I don't have service manual on hand, be a few weeks before I'm home. I'd be looking at stator check continuity in those white wires.

@@GarrettGolden-z1s just for kicks you may want to remove the ECU check the back side if any components blew out.

@@omieyouknowme checking power at white wires black connector( backprobing while cranking) had one circuit with 6 volts but nothing with 12 volt. Going to remove flywheel at lunch to check wiring at stator

You will get positive voltage at the pump lead but not negative if the ECU is fried. Verify by running the pump with external power source. The ECU just grounds the power, that's the failure not the positive side.

@@omieyouknowme so just to verify you are saying the ECU controls the pump from the negative terminal. Definitely still getting 12-14v on my meter when I hit starter across the pump harness leads. I want to try and measure the current in series and see if it drops under load

@@JoshTalbert yes it's a negative trigger. The positive is same and shared with coil and injectors and idle valve all on same line. Put your hand on ECU if it gets hot while running it's overloading that circuit and u are on borrower time. Other possible issue is pump is working to hard with high pressure filter plugged and drawing to much amps to keep up

The fuel system is a dead head design. I will have to check the manual, I sold the motor. But if memory is correct fuel comes out of pump into fuel cooler then filter. There is a T fitting before the filter and that outlet from T goes into regulator. This is pretty simple it pressurizes the line and filter and what ever is not need goes thru t and is regulated back in vst

I am not the expert, just posted how I did this. What is he having issues with? Is he upgrading from an older motor like I did to full Bluetooth and new control board?

Sorry to hear about the kill switch. Sadly once the fuel pump driver circuit is damaged it can not be repaired economically at least. I tried to remove the potting compound from the ECU with various chemicals and the time effort was not worth it. Be careful any pump other than an OEM pump even one from quantum could cause more damage. The cheaper aftermarket pumps, they do work fine on larger motors.

@@omieyouknowme Thank you very much for your quick response. Do you think that changing the fuel pump mentioned above recommended by Quantum, could solve the problem of the shut-off switch? Or does the fuel pump have nothing to do with the kill switch?

@@Aetius63 they are separate issues. If you can run the pump by applying 12v manually then crank the engine if still no start then there is something else going on. The kill switch is nothing more than grounding the brown wire. I would run a continuity check on the brown wire with kill switch in place. If you see ground on it with kill switch in place then there is a break in the wire somewhere to ground or switch itself is bad. The ECU rarely goes bad with the kill switch being grounded it's designed for that. Worst case trace the ground wire to ECU The brown wire goes to pin 3 this should not have ground unless kill cord is removed. Pin 28 on ECU is ground. This must be grounded at the lanyard with black yellow to brown or black to black on kill switch.

@@omieyouknowme The pump since it was replaced, works well and the engine always started without problems, the problem is that the engine would not start with the man overboard device put on the switch. But thanks to your guidance, we will review the continuity of the cabes and their connections. Thank you so much for your support

@@Aetius63 there are only three items that can cause a no spark no start. The kill switch, crank position sensors and stator. The crank position sensors if one fails will run but may not start. If stator fails it will not provide the need voltage to ignite the coils. Good luck. I often thought about adding a carburetor back into the block but this motor firing pattern is unique and needs sequential. Not possible sadly

I was able to modify the controller to accept a lower voltage before cutting out. The bms I added takes care of the high low voltage cutoffs now. It still is not a 2.2kw pack as advertised with the 12s2p config it's in. I bought it for the metal case. It works for my use and how I use it. If I could buy more I would but for no more than 200$ because I can build bigger packs at that price point.

Right on. Yeah, being the 16ah cells it would only be the 1.4kwh pack(16ahx2x44.4v nominal). Honestly though, the ones like you have are harder to find. I’d trade you a new 2.2kwh with the 25ah cells for your 1.4 with the 16ah cells of you were close. With what those cells in yours are rated for, you can pull 500amps from that module for 10 seconds and still be complying with the cell ratings.

@@JakeGlore-eu1ci I have the datasheet on this pack. Yes they are very impressive for how much they can deliver. I want to say it said it could sustain 300+ amps for 2-4 seconds. The way I use it I am pulling 2-3 amps only per hour, occasionally I'll run it up to 10a for a min or so. Right now I get 12-16 hours of use with a 4 hour charge time. So it works, works so well I have put my gas kicker motor up for sale.

Sorry can you translate

This ECU is not fixable. Same with all small engine ECU. If you know someone who is familiar with micro squirt you can build one for 350$. There is also speedunio option. These are small ECU you can program. If I find another 25-30 up tohatsu I will try this. But id be concerned if ECU keeps frying on the motor you have other issues.

If there is voltage and ECU is not sparking disconnect the kill lanyard wire. Believe they are the brown ones. Check each wire for continuity with ground if one is shorted out. The injectors working and no spark tells me it's lanyard or ECU. I will lean on the simple stuff first.

@@omieyouknowme even warning light is not turning on. i checked continuity on lanyard switch. there is no issue

@@omieyouknowme a faulty sensor can cause this problem?

@@RaajjeAnglers can you try cranking with kill switch engaged for few seconds then release the kill switch button. Like push starting a car with manual transmission. I have similar situation now on a Yamaha and this is how I start it. I had this same issue on a mercury few years turned out to be bad stator.

If ECU is failing you may have a bad ground or the pump, injector or coil is drawing more power than is provided by stator. One trick is to take the common hot wire, that runs the injectors and pump and run it via a battery. That is find the hot wire which is common for all these and tap it with +12v The ECU will drive the negative side to operate the injection and pump. This would tell you if ECU is bad or if there is an issue with one of the three pulling to much of a load and burned out ECU

Crank position sensor Single wire test against ground 148-222 ohms resistance Double wire test against red/white against black wire should be 148-222 ohms resistance Ignition coil resistance.17-.23 resistance with primary wire against ground Check the black yellow cable it's kill switch make sure it's not grounded

Blue wire on fuel pump is common hot. But if you do not have spark there is another issue

Hi I'm sorry to hear that. I do not repair ECU and the tohatsu ECU can not be repaired just replaced If you have no spark, then this is most likely a kill switch issue. Disconnect the brown wire for stop switch or lanard and try again. If that does not work I will find the specific test for the two crankshaft sensors if they fail the ECU will not spark either.