Yes, I mark the depth on both edges of the fingerboard with a marking gauge and cut until I reach those lines

Probably you can make the angle of the sides of the jig adjustable, so that you can align the edge of the fretboard with the jig to align the slot to the fret’s position. As long as you know where you need to cut, you should be fine.

Never mind, just saw in the detailed description. Thank you so much for including that. Looks amazing!

I just used MDF since it’s stable

@@saucetguitars Great, good tip!

i used a piece of an old hacksaw blade

I applied two coats. I honestly would not recommend it for this kind of application. It looks dry/dull on figured areas, even 2 coats is not enough (and they advertise it’s a one cost product). On straight grain it looks fine but imo not anywhere as good as other products like tru oil, BLO or shellac. It’s worth trying it though if you’re interested, to see if that’s the look you’re trying to achieve!

Thank you! No I didn’t apply anything before the tru oil

@@saucetguitars how long did you wait for it to dry between coats before sanding?

It’s not my favorite to be honest. It looks a bit dry on that heavily figured area on the body. They recommend one coat and I did 2, but it’s not enough imo. I think on a non figured wood it would work well but I won’t use it again on figure. Tru oil works much better and feels very similar to the touch, even if it takes more coats.

Thank you! I believe I added a “tools” page to the plans but the saw I use is the “Japanese fret saw” from Stewmac. The kerf is just right for their fret wire. I think as long as the kerf of the saw matches the width of the tang on your fret wire it should be fine.

Thank you! It was super awkward, not gonna lie I had to fill a few gaps in that area but it’s barely visible in the end!

@@saucetguitars LOL Yeah! wood binding is not fun, I stupidly decided to bend ebony binding on my first acoustic DUH

@@ADFinlayson oh no I can’t imaging binding with ebony. I used walnut on my last build and I’m now considering using plastic binding only 😂

Thank you! I applied oil to the top, back and sides at the same time. I shaped two sticks so that they have only two points each in contact with the body, and rested the body on these. With that many coats and them being so thin, any mark left is pretty much removed by the next coat. If it was a film finish like poly or lacquer I think that would be a bigger concern but with oil it’s fine imo. Good luck with your build!

No, the fretboard has to be registered so its centerline is perpendicular to the slot/saw. I have my blanks cut so the 2 edges are parallel to the center line, and my fret slot cutting jig has its fences 90 degrees from the slot so I end up with fret slots perpendicular from the center line

@@saucetguitarsI thought the fretboard was not rectangle, now I got it.

This one is not for sale unfortunately

Thank you! I did not apply any grain filler, just sanded to pretty high grit (I think 2000 or so) and applied Odie’s oil. I’ll be honest, after a few month I’m a bit disappointed, it looks a bit dry and dull in that heavily figured area. I think I see it more since I know about it and maybe it wouldn’t be obvious to most people, but Odie’s “one coat” advertising is just not true. I think I’ll stick to tru oil for my next builds since I’ve used it on a few guitars now and it’s always worked very well!

Thank you!

Thank you! It’s totally possible to do it with hand tools, it just takes a lot of patience. The hardest part really is bending the strips, you’ll need to take it very slow. There were a few gaps on mine around the sharp curves; some wood glue mixed with fine wood dust is a good way to fill them. Almost invisible once sanded and oiled. Good luck!

@@saucetguitars I'd debating between curly maple binding or a rope style binding of maple and walnut.

I haven’t use rope style binding but I imagine it would be tricky to bend with all the transitions between maple and walnut pieces. Although curly maple is also somewhat tricky to bend due to the changes in grain direction. Either way I’d recommend doing some tests with a strip and see how it goes!

I did not

I did not. I believe you can do it with tru oil but I was happy with that level of shine

Thank you for the comment, glad to hear you liked it!

Thank you, glad you liked it. It took me 3-4 months to build so I definitely took a few coffee breaks!

Thank you very much!

That's the way they made electric guitars in the 1700's!

Thank you! Yes I applied thin coats for this one, wanted to try a different process but the end result was about the same as my last video. I don’t remember how many coats I applied but with tru oil usually I do 10-15 coats, until I get a shine I like. I do not sand in between coats, unless I can feel some nibs, in which case I sand very lightly with 400 grit paper. With tru oil I always wipe away the excess though, even if I didn’t show it on the video. Thank you for your comment and I’m glad you enjoyed it!

@@saucetguitars thanks for the response. I’ve noticed everyone seems to have a different wipe off technique. Some use gentle smooth passes smoothing everything out but leaving quite a bit on the surface, while others go at it vigorously buffing it almost dry. Can you tell me which direction you go? Whatever you’re doing is working very well!

I prefer to buff it almost dry, I found that if I don’t wipe enough it takes longer to dry and can even get sticky/tacky. It takes more coats but I don’t have to wait as long for them to dry