Seedlings can usually be removed manually, though it's good to make sure it's not a sucker from a nearby mature tree. If it has reached the stage of being a small tree, with a trunk diameter of less than 6", a basal bark herbicide application is likely the most effective approach. If you need more information I recommend visiting woodyinvasives.org/woody-invasive-species/black-locust/

Thanks for sharing this information

I'm in jersey.

If you need help with ID or removal advice, visit woodyinvasives.org/woody-invasive-species/porcelain-berry/

I don't like referring to plants as bad. All plants have a role in the ecosystem they evolved in. The definition of an invasive species is a species that is not native, AND causes environmental or economic harm (or harms human health), when introduced outside its native range. This harm often stems from a lack of predators or other limitations to their growth and spread outside its native range.

Is he in Harpers Ferry? I know he’s in WV.

While mulberries tend to be more productive if they are cross-pollinated, they are self-fertile and so do not require a male tree to produce fruit.

That is interesting! ​@@midwestinvasiveplantnetwor7029

I'd put my vote in for it being one of those exploding dynamite trees.

Can be seen from space

It most readily hybridizes with European aspen, quaking aspen, and bigtooth aspen. Hybridization between while poplar and eastern cottonwood is very unlikely to happen spontaneously in the wild. While some crosses have been done through breeding programs, the trees have not been very successful.

I have one on my property with many cottonwoods surrounding it, and no aspens(that I know of) and yes the poplar reproduces.

Location and circumstance definitely factor into plant behavior, however while cottonwood can be aggressive, it is native our region, so is not considered an invasive plant. One of the concerning things about Siberian elm, is not just that it's non-native and spreads rapidly, but it's potential to hybridize with native slippery elm, creates a conservation concern.

Good question. The main concern for black swallow-wort spread is via seed, but root crowns can regenerate even if they are damaged and so the guidance is that this plant should not be composted (mnfi.anr.msu.edu/invasive-species/Swallow-wortBCP.pdf). While technically composting can break down all plant material, it takes 30 days of exposure to temperatures of 145 degrees or more to kill seeds from tougher weed species (wssa.net/) in a properly designed and managed compost system and that can be very difficult to achieve with backyard composting. It is safer to double bag and dispose of swallow-wort in your regular trash.

@@midwestinvasiveplantnetwor7029 thanks for the reply. The first link didn't open for me. If it's the seeds and the roots that are the biggest concerns, is it then ok to compost the leaves and stems because often that's what ends up in the hands with my mediocre efforts. I plan on going in with tools but can't help pulling them out anytime I see them.

@@monalisahota That page was slow to load for me too. Try using this link www.misin.msu.edu/facts/detail/?project=&id=36&cname=Black+swallow-wort. If you scroll to the bottom, you should be able to open the best control practices for swallow-wort document. I still wouldn't recommend composting this plant, in case of accidental inclusion of seed or root fragments, but you are correct that the stems and leaves themselves cannot generate a new plant.

I know what you mean, I enjoy the fruit too, but removal does help protect our native red mulberry populations. If the tree is in your yard, especially in a sunny spot, and the leaves are shiny it's very likely to be white mulberry. Red mulberry leaves are dull on the top surface and hairy on the entire bottom. Red mulberry requires higher quality habitat with rich, moist soil and partial shade, while white mulberry will grow in poor soils and prefers full sun.

I'm in northwest Indiana too, you still have your tree?

Don’t chop it down it has a lot of medicinal uses

The mulbery fruits is very healthy, if you're not allergic to it then why cut it down? There's people allergic to nuts , is that mean everyone need cut their nut trees or even shutdown the industries all together?

Tree of heaven is a tough invasive to manage due to its extensive suckering when top cut or ineffectively treated. The Woody Invasives of the Great Lakes Collaborative website (woodyinvasives.org/woody-invasive-species/tree-of-heaven/#1571683267259-c65fd76c-7490fa11-61a14714-3122ef93-98d1ba23-e222) has good information on managing this tree. For more specific guidance on chemical application, refer to the MIPN control database (www.mipn.org/control/). In my personal experience hack and squirt is more effective than cut stump methods, but both can be effective if timed and executed correctly.

@@midwestinvasiveplantnetwor7029 i moved to Arkansas after a 20 fight, in Wisconsin, with European buckthorn and had NEVER heard of this tree. I bought a house and have been trying to get rid of it. It destroys everything I put in. I pull, I cut and spray, I mow. I had the really huge old ones taken down and their suckers push up through my crawl space, my garden, my EVERYTHING! I don't want to be defeated by this dang tree. I get annoyed because down here they plant so many invasive species including Mimosa, honeysuckle,ivy and anything else including invasive grasses. Their DNR have been know help. ✌🏽 🙏🏽

The easiest differentiation is whether the tree produces fruit. Only female trees produce fruit.

I'm so sorry to hear you're struggling with this plant. It sounds like you have some limitations on management, but for the ones that pop up in your yard, or if you and your neighbor do decide to work on managing the parent plant, know that there is management information available at woodyinvasives.org/woody-invasive-species/border-privet/#1571683267259-c65fd76c-74902c49-11a4

Some studies have shown that chemical treatment in the fall may be more effective. Woodyinvasives.org has more information. Also, we are hoping to hold a webinar at the end of the year specifically on porcelain berry. Join the MIPN listserv (mipn.org) to stay up to date on what we'll have to offer on this topic this year.

If you want to pursue chemical control rather than manual, foliar, cut stump, basal bark, and application of herbicide to a girdle are effective on this species. Foliar applications should only be conducted when plants are fully leafed out and are likely restricted to sites with few desirable plants. Basal bark treatment can be used on trees of intermediate size (<6” in diameter at breast height) during most times of the year, avoiding early spring. For large trees, cut stump treatment or application of herbicide to a girdle are most effective. Girdle treatment should be done in late spring to mid-summer while cut stump can be during most of the year, avoiding early spring. This information as well as details on mechanical management are available at the Woody Invasives of the Great Lakes website woodyinvasives.org/woody-invasive-species/siberian-elm/#1571683267259-c65fd76c-7490fa11-61a14714-3122ef93-98d11c0d-ecf6