Sure thing! Ok, so we moved in last fall (2023). It was the first winter where the place was heated consistently. By December, I had the HVAC installed and running. In January, the HVAC couldn't keep up with the cold (we had an extreme cold snap with 3 days where we didn't get above 5 degrees), so I was supplementing with the wood stove heat. Over the entire winter, I probably burned through about 1/3 cord of wood. We noticed that the logs DID shrink - we had some kitchen cabinets screwed directly to the logs, and they were pulled back from their original positions by about 1/2". We know this because they butt up against some drywall on the side, and there was a 1/2" unpainted space on the drywall that showed up. So I guess we gained some "square footage", lol, but the house did not settle - no sticky doors or windows or anything like that.

@@bawhjth great that was kind of the information I was looking for. I’m glad things work out well and I appreciate the reply.

we talked about that, but with the wrap around porch, you're not even going to see the piers. If I wasn't doing a porch, I think I would probably do this, though - like the look of stone up against logs.

it's a 40x40 two story home. 64 wall logs. 28 rafters. 31 4x12 floor joists for 2nd floor. I just used 2x12's for the first floor (96)

@@johnwhohasanopinion7939 you probably don't want to know what I think of "insurance". :)

I don't think I ever finished the drawing! sorry! I can give the measurements though: if the ladder is set at 75 degrees, then you need to make the triangle like this: 1. top side (where you set the board): 14-5/8". 2. ladder side (goes up against the ladder): 18" 3. support side (connects bottom of ladder side to outside of top side): 20-1/16". You'll have to measure the rungs of your ladder to see where to weld the channels. I'll try and get a drawing up soon...

Yeah, I consider "settling" to mean "a change in vertical height", which I haven't experienced with my home. As opposed to "shrinking" which I consider to be a change in the diameter of the logs, which I have seen. The first floor is supported by interior piers so the largest span is 13', so no sagging there. The upper floor is supported by a girder log and 20' 4x12's spaced 2' apart, so no sagging there either.

@@bawhjth have you noticed gaps forming along the chinking? And the cut lumber has shrunk a bit as it cured I'm guessing? Eventually I'll build another log home or structure on our property and I want to try the lhba method. It's very interesting and I've made a couple of models- one being a mailbox lol.

@@baimeistudent yes, about 1/4" gaps along the chinking on every row. They talk about this in the LHBA class - no big deal, just rechink with a thinner mixture if it bothers you. Lumber has shrunk a bit, yes, but nothing major - house is still structurally sound. None of the doors or windows stick, so there's been no vertical "shrinkage" (what I call "settling"). I definitely recommend the LHBA method - probably best to take the class - there are some intricacies they talk about that will really help get you a good solid home.

@@bawhjth the class is something I will take at some point. I've read and watched a lot of what you guys say, have been in a bunch of different style log homes and lodges, and used to do residential additions/reconstructions. I understand the structural concept of log homes versus a stick framed house for example. Every natural material cures over time and hvac mixed with faux materials ruins people's perceptions of a house, especially inside versus outside. The design of log homes are generally very good, especially lhba pinning entire trees. The problems people have are with the rush to build faster than all natural materials' cure times, affecting every style of home construction. The key thing I've noticed that most problems stem from is the ground itself. That's why I was sold on the slab concrete basement and walls for the first floor with log on top for my home. I will most likely repeat this basement style again, but use the butt and pass design atop. Even as the ground beneath sinks/compacts, it will be proportionate with the time and weight as the house is built. Most houses I've experienced have the same problem of materials curing at different rates coupled with the weight of the structure settling into the ground unevenly over time, EXCEPT with full basement or concrete piered homes that were not quickly built. There's so much to think about and appreciate with construction off the land. Congratulations again!

thanks! yes, we are moved in, still working on finishing it. but yeah - wish we would've gone with an oil based stain in the first place - I have to sand blast off the remains of it before I can switch to oil. but I hear as long as I maintain the oil stain, I can just wash and re-apply next time (without sandblasting). Let's see - what else - we built on piers - I wouldn't change that - but this winter was brutally cold - colder than anyone remembers - and the wind just seemed to blow right through that open crawlspace. so now we're looking to spray foam the entire underside. I'd like to close in the crawlspace at the same time, but might not get to it before winter. And yes, the logs shrink - our kitchen cabinets (attached to logs) have pulled back about 1/2" from where they were, leaving a big unpainted stretch of wall. I don't know how you get around that - we didn't have anywhere else to attach them. Other than that, I'm pretty happy with how things turned out, thanks for asking! Would I do it again? yes.

​@@bawhjth awesome! Just a couple of suggestions are to weigh not closing in the crawl space. A number of reasons, but the main is with pest control, which you can do yourself. I used to do pest control on the side. Controlling ground pests is as simple as limiting their access to the house which are those piers. A once a month treatment around them keeps the bugs off. Put a continuous fan-spray half on the block and half on the ground around the perimeter of each for a barrier and at least a day before rain. It can be used the same on the wood itself around the bottom corner perimeter in/outside if ever needed to drive them away. Insect/termiticides are available for non agricultural license use (private property) and are probably at your local hardware store. A bottle is around 50-100 bucks and lasts years. Natural mixtures are perfectly fine too! Just mix with water in a pump sprayer and wear some gloves. Bugs are largely inactive during winter so you may consider making some nice panels to put around at that time as a wind barrier or simply planting bushes helps break up the wind. A cat or two keeps rodents away and therefore snakes. All critters are drawn to that much wood lol. Spray foaming the underside will make a complete difference, but be careful. Some of the foams have destroyed wood from the chemicals. So go with a known brand or getting those ploy-whatever or similar blocks you used before on the roof will do about the same if cut to fit and held by straps. Even better if using wood slats/sheeting underneath. I did a double subfloor and sheeted underneath fiberglass insulated joists on a stilted addition one time and it stayed warmer than the house lol. Man I know you're thrilled with the home!

Oh, it's scary almost every time for any size. Thanks!

Thank you!

thank you, this is really nice to hear!

just a piece of gate hardware for chainlink fence I found at the hardware store.

yes, 1/2" rebar, drill through the first log and stop. Pound the rebar all the way through the first log and halfway into the second log. rebar placed every 24", offset by 12" every row.

either top or bottom, but not both. but it's a real PITA to hold the nail gun upside down and put the nails in the top log.

thank you! very kind words!

I'm actually kinda surprised myself. :)

thank you!

just needs stain every 5 years. roof overhangs are quite large (8' on gables, 4' on eaves), and we are adding a wrap-around porch.

@@bawhjth what about the chinking? My understanding was that it was replaced /renewed almost yearly? Or is that traditional?

@@DBowTX sure - this is traditional mortar chinking - it should last pretty much forever, due to the method of installing nails and lath first. I have a pic of some 60 year old chinking that's been through a 6.5 earthquake and is still intact. that synthetic stuff should be avoided, IMO.

just pinned them up there with the ends touching. probably should have done a lap joint or something, but rebar is pretty strong.

awesome, thanks!

yeah, thought my knees were going to fall off - up and down the ladder for months. crazy times...

thank you!

Thank you! Ton of work.

Thank you, Keith! Well it was 7 years to build, but I wad only working on it for a couple hours each day, so that's about 5100 hours. An 8 hour shift would mean it took 1.75 years.

@@bawhjth Wow, definitely could have used some help huh. Glad you guys are finally enjoying it. I'm sure the kids love it too. How many kids can say they grew up in a log cabin. Thanks for sharing the journey with all of us. Best Wishes & Blessings Keith Noneya

thanks! still tons to do - wrap around porch, finish the HVAC, build a garage, but at least we're living here now.

awesome, thanks!

Yes, I need a better camera.

Ok, so the exact rise/run of the stairs is here: i.postimg.cc/B6h3Wddq/download-1.png . Going to tweak the treads a bit more, maybe - haven't nailed them down. Might re-do the side stringers so the treads don't stick out so much. handrail details - still working on the drawings..... sometimes, I just build in my head and then directly with my hands, without paper in the way, you know. ;)

@@bawhjth Still looks good! thanks for the png. Best Wishes & Blessings Keith

yep, it's dangerous alright.